Frosty's Christmas Kids by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with snowman. For children sizes 2 – 12 years. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-013-bn
Yarn group C
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-200-200-250 g colour 04, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour 06, black
A left-over of colour 13, orange - for nose
A left-over of colour 11, peacock blue - for scarf

Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-300-400-400-500 g colour 0501, grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 100, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour 8903, black
A left-over of colour 2920, orange - for nose
A left-over of colour 8905, deep ocean - for scarf

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – for rib.

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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Diagram A.3 shows a knot.
Diagram A.2 (snowman): The whole diagram is worked in stocking stitch. Worked with 3 balls, so that you avoid long carrying loops on the wrong side. In other words, work with 1 ball of medium grey Air/ grey Nepal on each side of jumper and 1 ball of pattern colour in middle of jumper. NOTE: To avoid holes when changing colours, you need to twist the strands together.

INCREASE TIP (sleeve):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, knit 2 sts (marker sits between these 2 sts) , 1 YO. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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JUMPER:
Front and back pieces (back piece with or without snowman) are worked back and forth separately with circular needle. This is to make it easier to work pattern. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed/short circular needle. Then the pieces are sewn together, outermost stitch to outermost stitch. The neckline is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE - without snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until the piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch until the piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now cast off 1 stitch in each side for armhole = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Work until piece measures 33-36-39-43-47-51 cm. Now cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES, see description above, over all stitches, then LOOSELY cast off. The piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE - with snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures approx. 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm work as follows from right side: 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch, A.2 (= 26 stitches) - read PATTERN and watch video if necessary, 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch. Continue in this way until piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch in each side for armholes = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2. When A.2 has been completed, work stocking stitch and medium grey Air / grey Nepal until piece measures 33-36-39-43-47-51 cm. Now cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES (see description above) over all stitches, then LOOSELY cast off. Piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.


FRONT PIECE - with snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures approx. 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm work as follows from right side: 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch, A.2 (= 26 stitches)- read PATTERN, 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch. Continue in this way until piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now cast off 1 stitch in each side for armholes = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2, when A.2 has been completed, continue with stocking stitch and medium grey Air / grey Nepal until piece measures 31-34-37-40-43-47 cm. Now place the middle 10-12-14-16-16-18 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off to neck at beginning of each row from neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES over all stitches, then loosely cast off. Piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.




SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 4 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4-4-4-4-4-4 cm a total of 5-7-7-9-10-11 times = 38-42-44-48-52-54 stitches. When piece measures 27-32-36-40-44-48 cm loosely cast off. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge.
Sew the front and back pieces together in the outermost stitch. Sew in sleeves.

NECKLINE:
Knit up from right side approx. 58 to 68 stitches (number of stitches must be divisible by 2) around the neck (including stitches on thread at front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

NOSE:
Cast on 8 stitches with 2 strands orange Air or Nepal with needle size 5.5 mm (leave strand lengths of approx. 30 cm, these are used as stuffing afterwards). Then continue with 1 strand. Purl 1 row. The next row is worked as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5 = 7 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 = 6 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand (leave a strand-length of approx. 30 cm; this is used to fasten), pull it through the remaining stitches. Sew together in the side and push the long strands from casting-on inside the nose as stuffing. Sew the nose to the middle of the snowman’s head on the front piece.

SCARF:
Cast on 62 stitches with needle size 5.5 mm and peacock blue Air or deep ocean Nepal. Work 2 rows stocking stitch. Cast off. Thread the scarf through the jumper by the neck of the snowman (on the front piece) and back to right side on the other side of the neck. Tie the scarf ends together with a double knot in front.

SNOW, BUTTONS AND EYES:
Make 12 knots with off white Air or Nepal for snow and 5 knots with a left-over of black Air or Nepal for buttons and eyes as follows: 1 knot: Cut 1 strand of approx. 40 cm. Make 4 knots around a needle size 5.5 mm - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Position the knots on the front piece, thread the strand ends through each side of 1 stitch and tie at wrong side - see photo.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.11.2017
New yarn amount in the 3 smallest sizes:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-300-400-400-500 g colour 0501, grey

Diagram

= off white Air / off white Nepal
= medium grey Air / grey Nepal
= black Air / black Nepal
= single knot


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Luciana 02.10.2020 - 15:20:

Buonasera, il maglioncino e' anche per bambine? grazie

DROPS Design 02.10.2020 kl. 15:24:

Buongiorno Luciana, certo, il maglione è sia per bimbi che per bimbe. Verrà sicuramente benissimo per una bimba! Se vuole può condividere il risultato finale con noi! Non vediamo l'ora di vederlo! Buon lavoro!

Gabriele Thesing 30.09.2020 - 11:16:

Hallo,ich stricke den wunderschönen Schneemann Pullover für Kinder. Meine Frage wird das Muster auch in der Rückrunde gestrickt oder wird die Vorderseite nur wiederholt. Ich bin totale Anfängerin was Motiv stricken betrifft . Lg Gabriele

DROPS Design 30.09.2020 kl. 14:01:

Liebe Frau Thesing, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen, hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme - Dieses Modell wird als DROPS-Along gestrickt, hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sabine 23.09.2020 - 21:25:

Hallo, muss ich bei Muster A2 die Fäden auch überkreuzen (d.h. den, den neuen grauen in der aktuellen Reihe mit dem weißen der vorigen Reihe), wenn der Farbwechsel nicht übereinanderliegt (d.h., der Faden über mehrere Maschen mitwandert)? Danke

DROPS Design 24.09.2020 kl. 09:31:

Liebe Sabine, ja, die Fäden am beste immer miteinander kreuzen, dieses Video zeigt, wie man mit 3 Knäueln strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marina 10.06.2020 - 10:22:

Ho provato a fare la taglia di 10 anni, ma mi ritrovo dalla spalla fino allo scalfo 40 maglie per il davanti e 40 per il dietro, in totale 80, mentre la manica ne ha 52, allora ho pensato di riprendere i bordi del davanti e del dietro e di diminuire le maglie in 3 giri: 6 diminuzioni al primo giro, 6 diminuzioni al secondo giro e 2 diminuzioni al terzo giro, così da avere 26 maglie sul davanti e 26 maglie sul dietro del maglione, che corrispondono alle 52 della manica.

Janet 01.12.2019 - 02:40:

I have been a knitter for more than 40 years. I have to say this is the worse written pattern I have ever read. Tonight I will finish this sweater for my grandson. I look forward to putting this pattern in the recyle bin before going to bed. I would not suggest a beginner knitter start with this one.

Margit Weihrauch 13.11.2019 - 12:02:

Hallo, wie können denn Drops Air oder Drops Nepal Garn angegeben werden; sie haben doch völlig unterschiedliche Lauflängen? oder muss Drops Air mit doppeltem Faden gestrickt werden? MfG M.W.

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 12:18:

Liebe Frau Weihrauch, Air und Nepal gehören zur gleichen Garngruppe (C), dh sie haben beide gleiche Maschenprobe aber eine unterschiedliche Lauflänge, deshalb brauchen Sie eine unterschiedliche Gewichtanzahl/Knäuelanzahl. hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnatlternativen. Der Pulli wird dann mit nur 1 Faden Air oder Nepal gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helena Maine 25.10.2019 - 16:10:

I am confused with the A2 pattern. Do I count the rows from wrong side too into 54 rows? If I follow the pattern from RS only I seem to end up with too many rows. I had to unravel it twice. Example, to decrease from the body towards the neck do I knit 2 from the RS , thus knitting 2 coming back before I decrease again? I don't get this A2 instructions at all. Please help. Thank you.

DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 16:36:

Dear Mrs Maine, Diagram A.2 is 54 rows, ie read diagram from the right towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS, in other words, diagram shows all rows both from RS and form WS. Happy knitting!

Helena Maine 02.10.2019 - 19:39:

I just wish to say thank you for your lovely patterns and in particular for including in you video demo how to make the knots. I asked fir this last year and you listened. I am grateful and I will now knit this sweater.

Martina 02.12.2018 - 00:22:

Nel diagramma A2 ( non il nodo del diagramma A3 per la neve)il pallino nero indica il nodo singolo . Non ho capito come si realizza

DROPS Design 02.12.2018 kl. 14:49:

Buongiorno Martina. Nel diagramma A.2 il quadrato con il tondino nero all’interno indica quale colore deve usare quando lavora quella maglia. Non ci sono nodi in questo diagramma. I nodi sono solo nel diagramma A3 e servono per la neve, i bottoni e gli occhi. Il video sotto può esserle di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

Addy 15.11.2018 - 18:05:

Hi there. The numbers don’t appear to be correct for the front neck shaping. I’m doing the 3-4 size and pattern says k17, centre 10 stitches on hold. So 17 stitches for shoulder. But this only adds up to 44 stitches when there are 54. How many should there be on hold? Thank you

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 08:58:

Dear Addy, in the size 3/4 years, there are 52 sts on needle, yo slip the middle 12 sts on a thread for neck as follows: work the first 20 sts as before (1st shoulder), knit the next 12 sts and slip them on a thread/st holder, work the last 20 sts for 2nd shoulder. Turn and continue now over the sts from this shoulder binding off sts at the beg of every row starting from neck 2 sts 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 17 sts remain for the shoulder. Now slip the stitches from first shoulder back onto needles and continue the same way casting off the sts at the beg of row from neck. Happy knitting!

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