DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Frosty's Christmas Kids

Knitted Christmas jumper with snowman. For children sizes 2 – 12 years. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Children 30-28
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-013-bn
Yarn group C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-150-200-200-250 g colour 04, medium grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour 06, black
A left-over of colour 13, orange - for nose
A left-over of colour 11, peacock blue - for scarf

Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-300-400-400-500 g colour 0501, grey
50 g for all sizes in colour 100, off white
50 g for all sizes in colour 8903, black
A left-over of colour 2920, orange - for nose
A left-over of colour 8905, deep ocean - for scarf

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – for rib.

----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.2 and A.3. Diagram A.3 shows a knot.
Diagram A.2 (snowman): The whole diagram is worked in stocking stitch. Worked with 3 balls, so that you avoid long carrying loops on the wrong side. In other words, work with 1 ball of medium grey Air/ grey Nepal on each side of jumper and 1 ball of pattern colour in middle of jumper. NOTE: To avoid holes when changing colours, you need to twist the strands together.

INCREASE TIP (sleeve):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, knit 2 sts (marker sits between these 2 sts) , 1 YO. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Front and back pieces (back piece with or without snowman) are worked back and forth separately with circular needle. This is to make it easier to work pattern. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed/short circular needle. Then the pieces are sewn together, outermost stitch to outermost stitch. The neckline is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE - without snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until the piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch until the piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now cast off 1 stitch in each side for armhole = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Work until piece measures 33-36-39-43-47-51 cm. Now cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES, see description above, over all stitches, then LOOSELY cast off. The piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

BACK PIECE - with snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures approx. 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm work as follows from right side: 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch, A.2 (= 26 stitches) - read PATTERN and watch video if necessary, 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch. Continue in this way until piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch in each side for armholes = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2. When A.2 has been completed, work stocking stitch and medium grey Air / grey Nepal until piece measures 33-36-39-43-47-51 cm. Now cast off the middle 16-18-20-22-22-24 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue working until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES (see description above) over all stitches, then LOOSELY cast off. Piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.


FRONT PIECE - with snowman:
Cast on 52-54-58-60-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 5 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures approx. 6-7-8-9-10-11 cm work as follows from right side: 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch, A.2 (= 26 stitches)- read PATTERN, 13-14-16-17-19-21 stitches stocking stitch. Continue in this way until piece measures 23-25-27-30-33-35 cm. Now cast off 1 stitch in each side for armholes = 50-52-56-58-62-66 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.2, when A.2 has been completed, continue with stocking stitch and medium grey Air / grey Nepal until piece measures 31-34-37-40-43-47 cm. Now place the middle 10-12-14-16-16-18 stitches on 1 thread for neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Cast off to neck at beginning of each row from neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 16-16-17-17-19-20 stitches left on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 34-37-40-44-48-52 cm, work 2 RIDGES over all stitches, then loosely cast off. Piece measures approx. 35-38-41-45-49-53 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.




SLEEVE:
Cast on 28-28-30-30-32-32 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under sleeve. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 4 cm, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and then work stocking stitch. When piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 4-4-4-4-4-4 cm a total of 5-7-7-9-10-11 times = 38-42-44-48-52-54 stitches. When piece measures 27-32-36-40-44-48 cm loosely cast off. Work another sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge.
Sew the front and back pieces together in the outermost stitch. Sew in sleeves.

NECKLINE:
Knit up from right side approx. 58 to 68 stitches (number of stitches must be divisible by 2) around the neck (including stitches on thread at front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and medium grey Air or grey Nepal. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until piece measures 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - make sure the cast-off edge is not tight.

NOSE:
Cast on 8 stitches with 2 strands orange Air or Nepal with needle size 5.5 mm (leave strand lengths of approx. 30 cm, these are used as stuffing afterwards). Then continue with 1 strand. Purl 1 row. The next row is worked as follows: Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5 = 7 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2 = 6 stitches. Purl 1 row. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 = 5 stitches. Cut the strand (leave a strand-length of approx. 30 cm; this is used to fasten), pull it through the remaining stitches. Sew together in the side and push the long strands from casting-on inside the nose as stuffing. Sew the nose to the middle of the snowman’s head on the front piece.

SCARF:
Cast on 62 stitches with needle size 5.5 mm and peacock blue Air or deep ocean Nepal. Work 2 rows stocking stitch. Cast off. Thread the scarf through the jumper by the neck of the snowman (on the front piece) and back to right side on the other side of the neck. Tie the scarf ends together with a double knot in front.

SNOW, BUTTONS AND EYES:
Make 12 knots with off white Air or Nepal for snow and 5 knots with a left-over of black Air or Nepal for buttons and eyes as follows: 1 knot: Cut 1 strand of approx. 40 cm. Make 4 knots around a needle size 5.5 mm - see diagram A.3 (i.e. make 3 LOOSE knots, make 1 more knot and tighten the strand on this knot = 1 knot). Position the knots on the front piece, thread the strand ends through each side of 1 stitch and tie at wrong side - see photo.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.11.2017
New yarn amount in the 3 smallest sizes:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-300-400-400-500 g colour 0501, grey

Diagram

symbols = off white Air / off white Nepal
symbols = medium grey Air / grey Nepal
symbols = black Air / black Nepal
symbols = single knot
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 30-28

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Susanne Skyggebjerg wrote:

Altid dejligt at bestille vare hos jer og det er hurtig levering det et også lækkert at det ikke går for lang tid før varen er her

05.12.2024 - 09:13

country flag Ria wrote:

Beste, de rondbreinaalden van 40cm voor 30 steken lijken me te lang om de mouwen in de ronde te breien. Heeft u hiervoor een oplossing ? Kortere naalden ? Of toch heen en weer breien ? Met dank voor uw antwoord

04.11.2024 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ria,

Als je te lange rondbreinaalden hebt kun je de 'magic loop' techniek gebruiken. Zie 04.11.2024 - 21:10

country flag Christine Garman wrote:

How do I make the graph larger to fit adult size please.

22.08.2024 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Garman, please find the adult version for this jumper here. Happy knitting!

22.08.2024 - 15:56

country flag Lavigne wrote:

Bonjour, J aimerais rajouter sur une ouverture sur une des épaules pour passer plus aisément la tête. Pourriez vous m'indiquer s'il existe une vidéo qui expliquerait comment procéder ? Merci pour votre réponse, bonne journée 🌷

07.05.2024 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lavigne, vous pouvez probablement juste tricoter quelques rangs supplémentaires sur l'épaule choisie pour créer une bordure de boutonnage - j'ai trouvé par exemple ce modèle, même dans une tension différente, il pourra peut-être vous inspirer. Votre magasin saura également vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

07.05.2024 - 13:26

country flag Cynthia wrote:

Having trouble figuring out how to do the neck/shoulder cast off. It says cast off at beginning of row for neck but that would not be at the neckline. If you cast off at end of row it leaves a space and you still have a stitch at the end. Can I just decrease by knitting 2 together instead of traditional cast off ?

09.12.2023 - 17:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cynthia, since you will pick up stitches for the edge those small holes will disappear, however, you certainly can make those decreases instead of casting off, if that would be more comfortable to you. Happy Knitting!

10.12.2023 - 21:28

country flag John En Annet Van Der Westen wrote:

Goedemiddag. Is dit patroon ook beschikbaar voor baby van 3 maanden?

27.11.2023 - 18:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag John En Annet,

Nee, deze is er helaas niet voor baby's van 3 maanden.

29.11.2023 - 19:27

country flag Chaintron wrote:

Bonjour,pourrais-je avoir ce modèle en taille un an Et me dire si je peux le tricoter en aiguilles simple Je ne sais me servir des aiguilles circulaire Vous remerciant par avance. J’attends avec impatience Le retour. J’en cordialement Eliane

04.10.2023 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Eliane, ce modèle commence uniquement à partir du 2 ans, vous pouvez vous aider d'un modèle similaire dans la taille souhaitée pour adapter les explications si besoin. Retrouvez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites pour celui-ci, ou à l'avenir. Bon tricot!

05.10.2023 - 08:37

country flag Julia Brown wrote:

Hello, I wanted to know where I could purchase the Bluey jumper pattern for a 3 year old. Julia Brown

16.07.2023 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julia, all of our patterns are free; you can find them by searching for the pattern name or number in the search box. We are not familiar with the pattern you are speaking of; do you know the pattern number? You can find here all of our children jumper here: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=browse&c=children-jumpers&lang=en. Happy knitting!

17.07.2023 - 11:13

country flag Christa Erlebach wrote:

Ich bin bei der Schulter angelangt....wird der Kinderpullover auf einer Seite geknöpft? Ich finde keinen Hinweis dazu. Danke!

04.12.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Erlebach, nein es sind keine Knöpfe zu diesem Pullover. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.12.2022 - 09:41