Sunny Hug by DROPS Design

Children’s skirt with lace pattern and crochet edge, worked top down. Sizes 2 - 12 years. The piece is worked in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-033-bn
Yarn group B
Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years

DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour 30, mustard

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM/E/4 - for edge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round, purl the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down.
Cast on 90-105-120-135-135-150 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Knit 1 round. The next round is worked as follows: * Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue the rib in this way. When the piece measures 4-4-4-5-6-7 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2 1/4"-2 3/4'' work a row of holes as follows: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, purl 2, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, purl 2, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, purl 1, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, purl 2 *, work from *-* to end of round. Continue with rib until the piece measures 8-9-9-11-13-15 cm / 3"-3½"-3½"-4½"-5"-6''. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Insert 1 marker - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Now work as follows: * Purl 6, A.1 (= 9 stitches) *, work from *-* to end of round (= 6-7-8-9-9-10 repeats of A.1). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue the pattern as follows: Work A.1 1-1-1-1-2-2 times in height, A.2 1-1-1-1-1-1 time in height, A.3 1-1-1-2-2-2 times in height, A.4 1-1-1-1-1-1 time in height and A.5 2-2-3-3-3-4 times in height.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' increase 1 stitch at the beginning of every purl section (= 6-7-8-9-9-10 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 1½-1½-2-2-2-2 cm / ½"-½"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 10-9-9-9-10-11 times, but increase alternately at the end and beginning of each purl section (i.e. the next time you increase, increase at the end of each purl section, then at the beginning of each purl section, etc.). When you have completed A.1 to A.5, there are 174-196-224-252-261-300 stitches on the needle. Continue with A.5 until the piece measures approx. 17-17-21-24-26-29 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-8 1/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½'' from the marker (or to desired length). Work 2 RIDGES over all stitches – see description above and bind off with knit. The whole skirt measures approx. 26-27-31-36-40-45 cm / 10 1/4"-10½"-12 1/4"-14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 3/4'' from the cast-on edge and down.

Cut 3 strands Merino Extra Fine of 3½meters/ 3.25 yds each. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist on its own. Tie a knot in each end. Start mid front and thread the cord up and down through the row of holes. Tie a bow mid front.

Crochet an edge at the bottom of the skirt with Merino Extra Fine and hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 as follows: 1 single crochet in first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip forwards approx. 1½ cm / ½'', work 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* to end of round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.12.2017
One more skein in size 9/10 year: Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio 150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour 30, mustard


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (42)

Pia Wikborg 14.06.2020 - 00:47:

Hvis jeg strikker den i størrelse 2 år og slår 90 masker op, tager 6 masker ud 10 gange i løbet af hele strikketøjet. Det bliver i alt 150 masker. I opskriften står der man skal slutte med 174 masker. Hvor kommer de 24 masker fra?

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 11:09:

Hei Pia. Kan det være de økte maskene i A.2 og A.4 du ikke har sett? På nest siste omgang i A.2 og A.4 økes det med 2 masker i hver rapport. Du strikker A.2 og A.4 6 ganger i bredden og når det økes på nest siste omgang får du 12 økte masker etter A.2 er ferdig strikket i høyden og 12 økte masker etter A.4 er ferdig strikket i høyden = 24 masker. mvh DROPS design

Maria 17.05.2020 - 03:56:

Hola! Estoy comenzando el motivo A1 y quiero saber: del lado del revés se tejen los puntos como se presentan? Es decir, luego de hacer la secuencia 6 p. r, A1, 6 p. revés, me quedan los puntos para tejer del revés, y nuevamente retorno al derecho del tejido y recién ahí hago la hilera de p. Der? Muchas gracias!

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 17:20:

Hola Maria! Cuando se teje en redondo, todas las vueltas son tejidas por el lado derecho, y el diagrama es leído completamente de derecha a izquierda. Cuando se comienza una nueva vuelta, simplemente comenzar tejiendo el primer símbolo de la hilera siguiente del diagrama. Mira la leccion drops AQUI. Buen trabajo!

Kristi King 13.04.2020 - 23:32:

I am on the first row of holes after ribbing. I have 135 stitches on needle. Got to end of row with 2 stitches left. I have checked and each section has 19 stitches. Each repeat should be 19, correct? So should I have 2 stitches left at end of row? 7 repeats x 19=133

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 07:45:

Hi Kristi, Each section on the row of holes is 15 stitches; the YO replaces the decreased stitch (knit 2 together) each time. 15 goes neatly into 135, so there shouldn't be any stitches left over at the end of the round. Happy knitting!

Kristi King 10.04.2020 - 03:35:

At the very beginning, the ribbing has a purl 1 thrown in instead of 2. Is that correct?

DROPS Design 12.04.2020 kl. 18:08:

Dear Kristi. Yes, that is correct. Happy knitting!

Ulla Byholm 23.03.2020 - 12:59:

Ursäkta min förra fråga. Nu förstår jag A2 och A4.

Luciana 19.02.2020 - 14:26:

Buonasera, ho una domanda da porre forse stupida, ma le Taglie in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152, dovrebbero corrispondere al giro vita delle bambine? Credo di no altrimenti sarebbero troppo grandi!! Grazie

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 15:53:

Buongiorno Luciana. Le taglie in cm corrispondono alla statura. Buon lavoro!

Liza 15.02.2020 - 07:33:

Sorry, disregard my previous question about A2 increase, just realized the increase in row 5, thank you

Liza 15.02.2020 - 07:27:

In diagram A2, how do i end with having 11 sts when the increase i made are in the purl section?

Liza 13.02.2020 - 22:40:

In the increase tip, " purl the yarn over twisted to prevent a hole", is this relevant for this particular pattern because after the increase row we do not purl in the next row but knit?

DROPS Design 14.02.2020 kl. 08:28:

Dear Liza, the increase tip will be used when you have to increase in the purl-sections, working the yarn overs twisted will always allow them to avoid holes. The yarn overs made in the diagrams will be worked as usual so that they become holes. Happy knitting!

Signe Dagsland 23.11.2019 - 13:07:

Hei . Skulle gjerne hatt strikket denne oppskriften i str ett år ,men lurer på hvor mange masker jeg skal bruke da ? Har strikket et i str to år ,helt nydelig . Mvh Signe

DROPS Design 25.11.2019 kl. 07:29:

Hei Signe, Det er ca. 15 masker per 6 cm, så du kan prøve 15 masker mindre i utgangspunktet - eller måle barnet og strikke i forhold til det. God fornøyelse!

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