DROPS / 179 / 18

Lotus Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with lace pattern and rib. Sizes S - XXXL. The jacket is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-063
Yarn group C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color 14, heather

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or the size needed to get 15 stitches and 19 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 for rib – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. See diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (for the side):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread in the side: Knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

BUTTONHOLE:
Decrease for buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from the edge together and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm
M: 16, 25, 34, 43, 53 and 63 cm
L: 16, 25, 35, 45, 55 and 65 cm
XL: 16, 24, 32, 40, 49, 58 and 67 cm
XXL: 16, 24, 33, 42, 51, 60 and 69 cm
XXXL: 16, 26, 35, 44, 53, 62 and 71 cm
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth from mid front, bottom up to the armholes. Then work the front and back pieces back and forth on circular needle, separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 204-220-232-252-272-296 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows – from the right side: 5 stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2 / purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 stitches and 5 stitches garter stitch. Continue with rib until the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work 1 ridge over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row of the ridge, decrease 34-38-38-42-46-50 stitches evenly on the row = 170-182-194-210-226-246 stitches. Continue as follows – from the right side: 5 stitches garter stitch, purl 2, A.1 (= 24-24-24-28-28-28 stitches), purl 2, knit 25-31-37-37-45-55, purl 2, A.1, purl 2, A.1, purl 2, knit 25-31-37-37-45-55, purl 2, A.1, purl 2 and 5 stitches garter stitch. Continue this pattern upwards. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Insert 1 marker thread in each side, 45-48-51-55-59-64 stitches in from mid front (back piece = 80-86-92-100-108-118 stitches). When the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads in the sides = 4 stitches decreased, READ DECREASE TIP! Decrease every 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5"-5"-5½"-5½" a total of 4 times = 154-166-178-194-210-230 stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'' start decreasing for BUTTONHOLE – see description above. When the piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm / 19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21'' work ridges over 14 stitches in each side (= 7 stitches on each side of the marker threads in the sides). When you have worked 2 ridges over the stitches in the sides, work the next row as follows – from the right side: Work 37-40-43-47-51-56 stitches, bind off the next 8 stitches for the armhole (= 4 stitches on each side of the marker threads in the sides), work 64-70-76-84-92-102 stitches, bind off the next 8 stitches for the armhole, work 37-40-43-47-51-56 stitches. Now work each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 64-70-76-84-92-102 stitches. Continue with pattern as before, the 3 outermost stitches in each side are now worked in garter stitch. When the piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' bind off the middle 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 18-21-23-27-30-35 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' (the remaining stitches in A.1 are worked in stockinette stitch) and bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 37-40-43-47-51-56 stitches. Continue with pattern as before, the 3 outermost stitches in the side towards the armhole are worked in garter stitch. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES. Continue working until the piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''. Now place the first 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches on a thread for the neck. Continue the pattern as before and bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 18-21-23-27-30-35 stitches left on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' (the remaining stitches in A.1 are worked in stockinette stitch) and bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for the right, but reversed.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles/circular needle. Cast on 40-40-44-48-52-52 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib, knit 2/ purl 2. Work rib for 5 cm / 2'', then change to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10, work 1 RIDGE, see description above, on the first round of the ridge decrease 6-6-8-10-12-12 stitches evenly on round = 34-34-36-38-40-40 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-9 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3"-4"-3½'' increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 3½-3-2½-2½-2-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 12-13-14-14-15-16 times = 58-60-64-66-70-72 stitches. When the piece measures 49-48-47-46-44-41 cm / 19 1/4"-19"-18½"-18"-17 1/4"-16" (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of the shoulder width), bind off the middle 6 stitches under the sleeve and the sleeve cap is finished back and forth on circular needle. Work stockinette stitch and bind off at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 3 times = 34-36-40-42-46-48 stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 52-51-50-48-47-44 cm / 20½"-20"-19 3/4"-19"-18½"-17 1/4". Bind off the remaining stitches. Work one more sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left front piece.

NECKLINE:
Knit up approx. 80 - 100 stitches (including the stitches on the threads) with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and Air. Work 2 ridges back and forth, then bind off with knit from the right side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 stitches together
= slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 179-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Cahingt 20.01.2020 - 17:44:

Bonjour Je suis bloquée pour l'emmanchure. Si je tricote les 40 m, je tombe 1m après le fil marqueur, impossible donc de rabattre les 8m (4 de chaque côté des fils marqueurs). Je fais le modèle en taille M Je vous remercie beaucoup pour votre aide. Chloé

DROPS Design 21.01.2020 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mme Cahingt, aviez-vous bien placé votre marqueur pour les diminutions? Le marqueur du côté doit être à 48 m du bord et on diminue 4 fois = il doit rester 44 m avant le marqueur, soit 40 m pour le devant + 4 m à rabattre avant le marqueur. Bon tricot!

Phyllis 08.12.2019 - 19:16:

In het patroon wordt vermeld dat je een omslag moet maken,. Wordt deze omslag dan in de volgende naald als een steek gebreid? In de eerste twee naalden worden namelijk per patroon 2x2 steken samengebreid, dus dan is in de derde naald de omslag weer ter compensatie om het aantal steken gelijk te houden wellicht?

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 13:01:

Dag Phyllis,

De omslagen in het telpatroon worden op de volgende naald niet gedraaid gebreid, zodat er een gaatje ontstaat. Elke omslag wordt gecompenseerd met het minderen van steken (door samen te breien of 1 st afhalen, 1 st breien en de afgehaalde steek over te halen), waardoor het totaal aantal steken steeds gelijk blijft op de naald. (In de eerste naald staan de omslagen vlak naast de averechte steken aan de goede kant, dus naast de kruisjes.)

Cristina 24.03.2019 - 15:19:

Buenas tardes, he llegado hasta el momento de disminuir el cuello y no entiendo cuántos puntos hay que disminuir, he disminuido 2 + 1 + 1 punto y no queda igualado con la espalda, creo que no está bien explicado y que hay que seguir disminuyendo hasta tener 18 puntos en cada lado delantero igual que en los hombros de la espalda, porque si no no queda bien, podrían especificarlo por favor? Gracias.

DROPS Design 24.03.2019 kl. 19:50:

Hola Cristina. El escote de delantero derecho se trabaja como sigue ( por ejemplo, para la talla S): pasar los 15 puntos más externos hacia el centro del delantero a un gancho auxiliar, en la siguiente fila por el lado derecho disminuir 2 puntos, en la siguientes 2 filas por el lado derecho disminuir cada vez 1 punto = 37 - 15 - 2- 1 -1 =quedan 18 puntos para el hombro ( igual que en la espalda).

Barbara 08.02.2019 - 14:56:

Dziękuję za odpowiedzi. Pozdrawiam

Barbara 07.02.2019 - 17:20:

Dzien dobry, nie rozumiem po co mam przekladac 15 oczek na nitke i kiedy do nich wracam. Po przelozeniu oczek moja nitka jest na poczatku rzedu. Mam przerobic te 15 oczektak jak w schemacie i dopiero je zdjac na nitke, a potem ( na poczatku pozostalych 25 oczkek tego samego rzedu) zamknac 2 oczka, nastepnie w kolejnym rzedzie 1 oczko, tylko co z tymi 15 oczkami? Sa na nitce, opis nie wyjasnia co mam z nimi zrobic. Dziekuje zaodpowiedz.

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 08:38:

Witaj Basiu, tak najpierw przerób te 15 oczek, a dopiero później przełóż na nitkę. Dalej zamykasz na dekolt na początku każdego rzędu od strony dekoltu (czyli od tej nitki): 1 raz 2 oczka i 2 razy 1 oczko. Co później z tymi 15 oczkami wyjaśniłam już w poprzedniej odpowiedzi na twoje pytanie Pozdrawiamy!

Barbara 07.02.2019 - 16:12:

Dzien dobry , prosze wyjasnijcie co mam robic :"Umieścić teraz na drucie nitce 15-15-16-16-17-17 pierwszych oczek na dekolt." Czy to oznacza, ze przerabiam te oczka dzersejem a nastepne 25 oczek przerabiam wedlug opisu? Czy po prostu pozostawiam 15o. i zaczynam rzad po tych 15 o., wowczas oznaczaloby ze te 15o. przerabiam odzielnie az beda siegac do ramienia i doszywam je do dekoltu ( tylko ze 15 o =8cm? czy dobrze rozumiem? pozdrawiam.

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 08:33:

Witaj Barbaro, przekładasz 15 pierwszych oczek na drut pomocniczy/nitkę, a następnie przerabiasz do końca już tylko pozostałe oczka (ramię) wg schematu, zamykając oczka od strony dekoltu (od środka przodu swetra), i dalej przerabiasz wg schematu, aż dł. robótki wynosi 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm (pozostałe oczka schematu A.1 są przerabiane dżersejem) i zakończyć. Zobacz schematyczny rysunek na końcu opisu. A te pozostawione 15 oczek na każdym przodzie będą potrzebne dopiero na końcu, przy wykonywaniu wykończenia dekoltu. Powodzenia!

Cheryl Lyon 10.12.2018 - 00:05:

I have the same query as the lady HHK on12.03.2018 but I do not understand the answer you gave her. Are the stitches between the A1 patterns knitted in stocking stitch or garter stitch. I cannot tell by looking at the picture. Please give instructions for the second row of the body

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 10:33:

Dear Mrs Lyon, the stitches between A.1 will be either K or P - you are working from RS: 5 stitches garter stitch, purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS), A.1 (= 24-24-24-28-28-28 stitches = work these sts as shown in diagram), purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS), knit 25-31-37-37-45-55 (= P these sts from WS), purl 2 (K these 2 sts from WS), A.1, purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS), A.1, purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS), knit 25-31-37-37-45-55 (= P these sts from WS), purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS), A.1, purl 2 (= K these 2 sts from WS) and 5 stitches garter stitch. Happy knitting!

MIchele 20.09.2018 - 15:51:

Question for shoulder/neck: I have placed the first 15 stitches on the thread. I am actually binding off 2 stitches from the needle, correct? The pattern says continue working the piece until it measures 68cm. AND it also says the remaining stitches in A1 are worked in stockinette stitch and bind off. Does this mean I no longer work the pattern from the time I bind off those first 2 stitches? Or exactly at what point do I stop working the A1 pattern on the shoulder and switch over to ss?

DROPS Design 20.09.2018 kl. 16:00:

Dear Michele, correct, after you have binding off stitches for neck, you continue working all stitches in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

Viola 03.04.2018 - 21:17:

Hallo, ich würde diese Jacke für ein neunjähriges Mädchen stricken. Es gibt nicht zufällig diese Anleitung für die Größe XXS oder XS? Viele Grüße

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 08:54:

Liebe Frau Viola, dieses Modell gibt es nur in Damen-Größe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Holly Hensel Kinsella 12.03.2018 - 21:30:

When not working the A-1 pattern or the front band garter do you knit on your purls and purl on your knits on the opposite sides? After you set up the pattern it just says to continue the pattern upwards and I find this confusing? Exp. on the 25 knit stitches on either side do you purl these on the wrong side? And the 2 purls between the patterns do you knit these on the wrong sides? Thank you!

DROPS Design 13.03.2018 kl. 09:30:

Dear Mrs Kinsella, from WS you work in garter st the sts in garter st and K over K and P over P and diagram as shown on WS row in diagram. Happy knitting!

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