DROPS Design: Pattern no r-708
Yarn group B
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BIKINI TOP:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100-150-150-150-150 g color 29, old pink

SHORTS:
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 29, old pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM / G/6 – or the size needed to get 18 double crochets and 9 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO (for the bikini top):
At the start of each row of double crochets, work 5 chain stitches to turn. These 5 chain stitches do not replace the first double crochet.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.

CROCHET INFO (for the shorts):
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, the first double crochet is replaced by 3 chain stitches. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of single crochets, the first single crochet is replaced by 1 chain stitch. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

INCREASE TIP (for the shorts):
Work until there are 2 double crochets left before the marker, work 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (the marker sits in the middle of these double crochets) and 2 double crochets in the next double crochet (= 2 double crochets increased). Repeat in the other side (= 4 double crochets increased on the round).
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BIKINI TOP:
The bikini top is worked back and forth, top down.

Work 48-52-52-53-54-57 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 single crochet in the second chain stitch from the hook (= 1 chain stitch to turn + 1 single crochet), work 1 single crochet in each of the next 1-0-0-1-2-0 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 8-9-9-9-9-10 more times = 38-41-41-42-43-45 single crochets. Turn and work pattern as follows: Work A.1 over the first 5 single crochets, A.2 over the next 29-32-32-33-34-36 single crochets, A.3 over the remaining 4 single crochets – read CROCHET INFO! REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1 to A.3 have been completed in height, continue with double crochets and increases in the same way until you have worked a total of 11-12-12-13-14-15 rows of double crochets (you increase 3 double crochets on each row). There are now 71-77-77-81-85-90 double crochets on the row. Cut the strand.

Work 22-26-33-39-44-52 loose chain stitches. Continue with double crochets as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-90 double crochets, then work 27-31-38-44-49-57 chain stitches (including the 5 chain stitches to turn) at the end of the row. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 6th chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-1-2-2-1-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 double crochets *, repeat from *-* 2-3-4-5-6-7 more times, continue with double crochets as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-90 double crochets, then work over the chain stitches at the end of the row as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4-2-3-3-2-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 2-3-4-5-6-7 more times = 109-121-133-147-159-178 double crochets.

Work 6-7-9-10-10-11 rows with 1 double crochet in each double crochet, on the last row of double crochets decrease0-3-6-2-5-6 stitches evenly on the row = 109-118-127-145-154-172 double crochets. Continue working as follows: A.4 over the first 7 double crochets, A.5 over the next 90-99-108-126-135-153 double crochets (= 10-11-12-14-15-17 repeats of 9 stitches), finish with A.6 over the last 12 double crochets. Work A.4, A.5 and A.6 one time in height. The last row is worked from the right side of the piece. Cut and fasten the strands.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work an edge around the top as follows: Begin from the wrong side of the piece – start with the one short side at the back, work up the diagonal side, over the row of chain stitches at top front, down the other diagonal side and along the last short side (do not work over the edge at the back of the fan pattern on the bottom edge):

ROW 1: 1 single crochet,* 3 chain stitches, skip forward approx. 1-1½ cm / 3/8"-½", 1 single crochet *, repeat from *-*, make sure that the number of chain-spaces is divisible by 2.
ROW 2: Work 1 single crochet around the first chain-space, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the next chain-space, repeat from *-*. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold down the outermost 2 cm / 3/4'' in each side on the wrong side of the top and sew down with small stitches through both layers so that there is a casting to thread the cord through.

CORD TIE:
Work 1 loose cord as follows: Work chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm / G/6 until you have a cord which measures 140-150-160-170-180-190 cm / 55"-59"-63"-67"-71"-75'', turn and work 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, but make sure that you do not work the slip stitches tighter than the chain stitches! Cut and fasten the strands. Work 1 more cord in the same way.

Start from the right side and thread one end of the cord through the outermost hole at top front, around the double crochets and out through the next hole (= 2 cord ends out on the right side). Adjust the cord so that the ends are the same length, then thread the 2 ends under the cord on the wrong side and tighten. Repeat in the other side with the other cord. Then lay the cords in a cross at the back before they are threaded through the casting – see the illustration! The top is fastened by tying a knot.

SHORTS:
The piece is worked in the round, top down.

Work 163-182-196-220-244-268 chain stitches with Muskat on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid back.
The first round is worked as follows: 3 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet) – read CROCHET INFO, work 0-1-1-1-1-1 double crochet in each of the next 0-1-3-3-3-3 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 26-29-31-35-39-43 more times = 136-152-164-184-204-224 double crochets. Work 1 more round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Now work a row of holes as follows: Work 4 chain stitches (= 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch), skip 1 double crochet, * 1 double crochet in the next double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet *, repeat from *-* the whole round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. On the next round work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around each chain stitch.

Then you are going to work the shorts higher in the back than the front and this is done as follows – WITH SINGLE CROCHETS: Work 8 single crochets past the marker thread mid back, turn and work 1 slip stitch in the first stitch, then 1 single crochet in each of the next 15 single crochets, turn and work 1 slip stitch in the first stitch, then 1 single crochet in each of the next 23 stitches (you also work the slip stitches). Continue in this way by working over 8 stitches more each time you turn, until you have worked over a total of 96-96-96-112-112-128 stitches. Turn again and work back to the marker thread mid back. The piece measures approx. 11-11-11-12-12-13 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5" mid back.

Insert 2 new marker threads in the piece, (keep the marker thread mid back), insert the 2nd marker thread after 34-38-41-46-51-56 stitches (= the side), 3rd marker thread after 68-76-82-92-102-112 new stitches (= the side). Continue with 1 double crochets in each double crochet, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 1 double crochet on each side of the marker threads in the sides – READ INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 2nd-3rd-4th-4th-5th-6th round a total of 5-4-4-4-4-4 times. AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked 4-3-2-2-2-2 rounds, increase 1 double crochet on each side of the marker thread mid back. Increase in this way every 2nd round a total of 5-6-7-8-9-10 times.

When all increases have been completed there are 166-180-194-216-238-260 double crochets on the round. Continue with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures 20-21-22-24-26-28 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11" mid front and 27-28-29-32-34-37 cm / 10½"-11"-11½"-12½"-13½"-14½" mid back.

Now divide for the legs as follows: Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 3-3-4-4-4-5 double crochets on the round, turn and work back over the first 6-6-8-8-8-10 double crochets (i.e. 3-3-4-4-4-5 double crochets on each side of the marker mid back). These 6-6-8-8-8-10 double crochets = gusset. Work double crochets back and forth over these for 10-11-12-13-14-15 cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½-6'', cut the strand. Sew the gusset, edge to edge to the 6-6-8-8-8-10 middle stitches mid front. Continue by working the legs.

LEG:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the 77-84-89-100-111-120 double crochets around the one leg, in addition work 14-16-20-18-25-25 double crochets along the gusset = 91-100-109-118-136-145 double crochets. Continue with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the leg measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm / 1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''.
Now work an edge at the bottom of the leg as follows:

Work A.7 (= 3 double crochets), A.8 (= 9 double crochets) over the next 81-90-99-108-126-135 double crochets, finish with A.9 (= 7 double crochets). Work according to diagrams A.7. A.8 and A.9 one time in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

TIE CORD:
Work 120-140-150-160-170-180 cm / 47"-55"-59"-63"-67"-71" of LOOSE chain stitches, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Thread the band into the row of holes at the top of the shorts – start mid front.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.08.2017
Small edit in the bikini top.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around the chain-space
symbols = 1 double crochet in double crochet/single crochet
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 5 chain stitches – READ CROCHET INFO!
symbols = Illustration shows the back of the top and how you thread the cords
symbols = this row has already been worked
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-74) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Tina Reynolds wrote:

Hej☺️ Jeg vil gerne høre hvilken str der svarer til, brystvide 94 cm?? Og har i en general str skala? Med venlig hilsen Tina Reynolds.

22.08.2021 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tina, nederst i opskriften finder du målene i de forskellige størrelser. Du skal nok strikke en størrelse M, men det kommer selvfølgelig an på hvor stor du vil have åbningen i ryggen :)

25.08.2021 kl. 08:43

country flag Tasia Angelica wrote:

Does the round start after the 92 stitches? In this paragraph "Insert 2 new marker threads in the piece, (keep the marker thread mid back), insert the 2nd marker thread after 34-38-41-46-51-56 stitches (= the side), 3rd marker thread after 68-76-82-92-102-112 new stitches (= the side). Continue with 1 double crochets in each double crochet"

29.06.2021 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tasia, the rounds now start on mid back (you stopped the short rows to the marker thread on mid back), you add 1 marker after the 46th stitch on the round (first side) and after the 92th stitch (2nd side) in 4th size. And now work with dc increasing before + after both of these 2 marker threads = on each side of piece. Happy crocheting!

30.06.2021 kl. 06:59

country flag Tasia Angelica wrote:

I dont understand this paragraph under shorts (I'm making size XL): "Insert 2 new marker threads in the piece, (keep the marker thread mid back), insert the 2nd marker thread [...] Increase in this way every 2nd round a total of 5-6-7-8-9-10 times".

28.06.2021 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tasia, you have already one marker thread on mid back, you will now add 2 more marker threads: one for each side, then you will increase on each side of these both marker threads as explained under INCREASE TIP. Can this help? Happy crocheting!

29.06.2021 kl. 09:28

country flag Rita Steytler wrote:

Thanx for this lovely pattern I strugle a little bit with the high back Didn't understand the start with the dc and the turn Try on my own and I complete it Very proude at myself

23.05.2021 - 12:02

country flag Lizanne Van Stijn wrote:

Als ik de korte broek in de rondte haak, moet ik mijn werk dan keren?

21.05.2021 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lizanne,

Nee, volgens het patroon hoef je het werk dan niet te keren. Je kan er zelf trouwens voor kiezen om dit eventueel wel te doen, mocht je dat willen.

21.05.2021 kl. 14:18

country flag Yariliz De Jesús wrote:

Me perdi en esta parte del shorts "Trabajar 8 puntos bajos más allá del marcapuntos en el centro de la espalda, girar y trabajar 1 punto enano en el primer punto, después trabajar 1 punto bajo en cada uno de los siguientes 15 puntos bajos, girar y trabajar 1 punto enano en el primer punto, 1 punto bajo en cada uno de los siguientes 23 puntos (continuar trabajando los puntos enanos)." pueden explicarme mejor, porque no entiendo lo que debo hacer. Gracias!

05.01.2021 - 04:29

country flag Stella wrote:

Thank you for sharing your beautiful work.

18.11.2020 - 00:30

country flag Randie S wrote:

Hello! I am a little confused on the inc rounds (at the same time). Do you continue the side inc in the 5 times of middle inc? I'm thrown off by "after 4 rounds of side inc". Thank you, and I'm sorry if I've confused anyone. I'm amazed and appreciative that people are able to design (and share!) these patterns. I could never come up with this lol! Thanks again!!!

24.07.2020 - 05:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Randie, you have to increase on the side on every other round a total of 5 times (= this will be worked on the next 10 rounds), but after you have worked 4 of these 10 rounds, ie on 5th round, you increase on mid back on every other round (= as the increases on the sides) a total of 5 times - this means when the increases on the sides will be done, you continue increasing only on back piece. Happy crocheting!

29.07.2020 kl. 09:33

country flag Fátima Carreira wrote:

Nas instruções aparece descrito, 1 ponto baixo em cada um dos 1-0-0-1-2-0 ponto corrente seguinte, como se faz isto?

23.06.2020 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Se descer na páina da instruções vai encontrar muitos vídeos para a ajudar a conhecer os pontos. Basta ver no link abaixo e vai encontrar um vídeo como fazer ponto baixo. https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?patternid=8029&lang=pt Bom Croché!

25.06.2020 kl. 10:11

country flag Liv wrote:

I förklaringen till diagrammet står det: O = 5 luftmaskor - LÄS VIRKINFO! Men jag hittar inte denna virkinfo någonstans. Vad menas?

22.06.2020 - 09:58

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