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Infinite Summer by DROPS Design

Top with lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Safran. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: halter neck, lace, round neck, sleeveless, top, top down

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DROPS 178-69
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-265
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color 05, light blue purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM/C – or the size needed to get 26 double crochets and 16 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 2 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.55 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.10$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagram A.4 shows the assembly.

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each row with single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch.
At the beginning of each row with double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row with treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet in each side (= 2 double crochets increased on the row) as follows: 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there is 1 double crochet left, work 2 double crochets in the last double crochet (= 2 double crochets increased)
Increase 2 double crochets in each side (= 4 double crochets increased on the row) as follows: 3 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there is 1 double crochet left, work 3 double crochets in the last double crochet (= 4 double crochets increased)
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TOP:
The top is worked back and forth in one piece and from the top down.

UPPER:
Work 56-61-61-66-66-71 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 2.5 mm/C and Safran. Work 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook (= 2 single crochets), work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 9-10-10-11-11-12 more times = 46-50-50-54-54-58 single crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Continue by working double crochets back and forth and increase in each side of the piece as follows:
Work 4 rows where you increase 1 double crochet in each side of the piece (= 2 double crochets increased on the row) – READ INCREASE TIP and CROCHET INFO = 54-58-58-62-62-66 double crochets.
Now increase as follows: * Work 1 row where you increase 2 double crochets in each side, work 2-2-2-5-4-12 rows where you increase 1 double crochet in each side *, repeat from *-* 5-6-6-3-4-1 more times = 102-114-114-118-122-122 double crochets on the row. The piece measures approx. 14-16-16-18-18-19 cm / 5"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7"-7"-7½''. Cut the strand. Turn the piece and work the lower part of the top as follows:

LOWER:
Work 68-73-86-99-117-137 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the 102-114-114-118-122-122 double crochets from the upper part, finish with 70-75-87-101-119-139 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn).
Turn and work as follows: Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 double crochets), 1 double crochet in the next 1-1-4-2-0-0 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 12-13-15-18-22-26 more times, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 102-114-114-118-122-122 double crochets, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* 12-13-16-18-22-26 more times = 212-232-252-278-310-342 double crochets.
Continue working back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures approx.4-4-6-7-8-9 cm / 1½"-1½"-2 1/4"-2 3/4"-3"-3½''. Then work 1 row where you adjust the number of stitches to 211-235-253-277-313-343 double crochets.
Now work pattern according to the diagram, starting from the right side as follows: (First row starting from the right side): A.1 over the first 4 double crochets, A.2 over the next 198-222-240-264-300-330 double crochets (= 33-37-40-44-50-55 repeats of 6 stitches), finish with A.3 over the last 9 double crochets. Continue in this way until the diagram has been completed in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew 2 buttons on to the top of the right back piece. Place the first button approx. 1½ cm / ½'' in from the edge and the next approx. 4½ cm / 1 3/4'' in from the edge – see illustration with star. These are buttoned between two double crochets. The overlap is approx. 5 cm / 2''.

TWISTED CORD:
Cut 4 strands Safran of 4 metres. Twist them together until they resist, fold the cord double and it will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end approx. 4 cm / 1½'' from the end. Fasten the cord in the first row of double crochets in the corner of the front piece – fasten as shown in A.4. Make another cord in the same way and fasten it to the other side of the front piece. The cords are tied at the back of the neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-space
symbols = Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 3 stitches, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through on each of these treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in the next stitch and pull the last yarn over through all 5 loops on the hook
symbols = 1 treble crochet in chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain-space
symbols = 2 double crochets in same stitch
symbols = 7 double crochets around chain-space
symbols = Crochet direction
symbols = Sew on buttons as shown in the illustration.
symbols = This row has already been worked, start on the next row!
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-69) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Josefina Sarrion LLorens wrote:

Hago una talla XXL, una hilera a dos aumentos laterales y 4 a un aumento lateral 5 veces , quedan los 122 pts pero aún no termine la última tanda de hileras y mide más de 20 cm. Uso drops you 9 y aguja 2,5. He deshecho ya varias veces

09.08.2022 - 23:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Josefina, ¿cuánta diferencia tiene? Son 20 cm aprox., pero puede medir 19 o 21, dependiendo de la tensión y la talla. ¿Estás trabajando con la tensión correcta? Muchas veces, las medidas no coinciden por trabajar con una tensión vertical diferente a la establecida arriba o por que no se mantenga la tensión del tejido. Comprueba también que el ancho de la prenda sea el adecuado; puede que obtengas el ancho deseado con menos aumentos o cm trabajados por tu tensión del tejido. En ese caso, continua trabajando, teniendo en cuenta que tu tensión es diferente a la del patrón.

14.08.2022 kl. 21:51

country flag Josefina Sarrion LLorens wrote:

No consigo empezar ,sigo las instrucciones ,si pongo 66 cada me quedan 53, y si pongo 67 me quedan 55. No entiendo qué hago mal,

13.07.2022 - 12:09

country flag Clara wrote:

Si ho lavorato le 16 righe a maglie alte, quindi mi scusi posso proseguire il lavoro con uncinetto n 2?

01.05.2021 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Clara, deve lavorare con l'uncinetto che le permette di ottenere il campione indicato, quindi in questo caso con la misura di uncinetto che le permette di ottenere 16 righe in 10 cm. Buon lavoro!

02.05.2021 kl. 20:10

country flag Clara wrote:

Buongiorno, volevo un consiglio riguardo al campione che ho fatto con uncinetto n.2, in larghezza mi viene di 10 cm quindi corretto,mentre in altezza mi viene 13 cm più alto,cosa mi consigliate di fare? Grazie mille...

01.05.2021 - 08:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Clara, ha lavorato il campione a maglie alte? 16 righe in altezza nel suo campione corrispondono a 23 cm? Buon lavoro!

01.05.2021 kl. 11:16

country flag Camilla wrote:

C'è un video che mostra come realizzare questo punto? = lavorare 1 maglia bassa in ognuna delle prime 3 maglie, ma aspettare con l’ultimo gettato e passaggio attraverso ognuna di queste maglie alte doppie, lavorare 1 maglia alta doppia nella maglia successiva e far passare il filo attraverso tutti e 5 gli occhielli sull’uncinetto Grazie

20.10.2020 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Camilla. Abbiamo corretto il testo: deve lavorare 1 maglia alta doppia (e non 1 maglia bassa) in ognuna delle prime 3 maglie. Nel video che alleghiamo, trova la spiegazione riferita a maglie alte; per le maglie alte doppie è analogo: non deve lavorare l'ultimo passaggio della maglia. Buon lavoro!

20.10.2020 kl. 11:49

country flag Annika wrote:

Wie schließe ich das Oberteil im Rücken? Das erschließt sich mir nicht aus der Anleitung.

07.07.2020 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annika, nähen Sie 2 Knöpfe - siehe untere Skizze und FERTIGSTELLEN. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.07.2020 kl. 12:58

country flag Marta wrote:

Olá Tudo bem? Gostaria de saber se tem uma foto das costas e essa manequim qual o tamanho que ela usa? Muito Obrigada!

24.06.2020 - 17:43

country flag Ola wrote:

Robię rozmiar M. Chodzi o to, że zawsze gdy mam początek rzędu i zastępuje pierwszy słupek 3ma oczkami, to nie wiem gdzie mam potem wbić szydełko, czy już w następne oczko, czy ten "pseudosłupek" jest już tym dodanym..? Na końcu rzędu nie mam z tym problemu, bo po prostu przerabiam 2 slupki w ten ostatni. Chciałabym żeby brzeg robótki był estetyczny i równy, jednak przy tych pierwszych słupkach w rzędzie to nie wygląda to tak jak bym chciała

25.05.2020 - 09:58

DROPS Design answered:

Ten pseudosłupek zastępuje 1-szy słupek w rzędzie. Jak dodawać 1 sł na początku i na końcu rzędu znajdziesz TUTAJ. Uwaga! Na filmie jest dodany 1 sł + 1 oł, ty dodawaj tylko słupek jak w twoim wzorze. Jak brzegi robótki przy podkroju rękawa nie będą zbyt równe, wykonaj na końcu 1 lub 2 rzędy oczkami ścisłymi. Dodawanie o.- dodajesz w 1-szym rz. 4 sł (2x2sł z każdej strony), a w 2-gim i 3-cim rzędzie dodajesz po 2 sł (2x1 sł z każdej strony). Łącznie w 3 rzędach dodasz 8 sł. Powtarzasz tą sekwencję 7 razy: 7x8sł= 56 sł. Wyjściowe 58 sł+56 dodanych sł=114 sł. Powodzenia!

25.05.2020 kl. 18:30

country flag Ola wrote:

Nie wiem trochę jak dodawać słupki na początku robótki, kiedy mam pierwsze 4 rzędy. Na początku zgadza mi się liczba oczek, ale kiedy dodaje słupki, niby przerabiam dwa słupki w jeden, ale ta liczba slupkow i tak mi się nie zgadza. Jest jakaś metoda na to?

24.05.2020 - 19:14

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Olu! Napisz, który rozmiar wykonujesz.

24.05.2020 kl. 22:43

country flag Michela Mezzetti wrote:

Se si avviano le catenelle e si fa la maglia alta e poi le catenelle, nella parte inferiore le catenelle non risultano allo stesso livello!

23.05.2020 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Michela. Proseguendo con il lavoro, si dovrebbe sistemare. Buon lavoro!

23.05.2020 kl. 10:25

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Olaknitter, Poland
© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.