DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 28-10
DROPS design: Pattern no fl-002-bn
Yarn group A
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Sizes:
US Child: 7/8-9/10½-11/13-13½)
EU: 24/25 - 26/28 - 29/31 - 32/34
Foot length: 15-17-18-20 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-8".
Sock length: 18-18-18-18 cm / 7"-7"-7"-7"

Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g color 01, off white
50 g color 16, pistachio
50 g color 13, denim blue
50 g color 19, coral
50 g color 06, black

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

HEEL DECREASE (worked in stockinette stitch):
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until (7-7-8-8) stitches remain, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work until (7-7-8-8) stitches remain, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work until (6-6-7-7) stitches remain, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work until (6-6-7-7) stitches remain, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over, turn the piece.
Continue to decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are (10-10-12-12) stitches left on the needle.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease as follows before the marker thread: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows after the marker thread: Knit 2 stitches twisted together.
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SOCK:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles from the top of the sock down to the toe.
Cast on 64-64-72-72 stitches evenly divided between the double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with denim blue. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 2/ purl 2) for 3-3-3-3 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1''. Knit 1 round where you decrease 12-12-12-12 stitches evenly on the round = 52-52-60-60 stitches. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 stitches) 6-6-7-7 times in width, work A.2 (= 4 stitches). NOTE: on rounds 6,10 and 33, 1 stitch is decreased in diagram A.2 = 49-49-57-57 stitches. On round 40 (= the round with the star) decrease 1 stitch evenly along the round = 48-48-56-56 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue by working A.1 (= 6-6-7-7 times on the round). On the last round of A.1 adjust the number of stitches to 44-44-56-58 stitches.

The sock is now finished with pistachio. Keep the first 11-11-13-13 stitches on the needle, place the next 22-22-30-32 stitches on 1 thread (= mid top of foot) and keep the last 11-11-13-13 stitches on the needle = 22-22-26-26 stitches for the heel. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 4½-4½-5-5 cm / 1 3/4"-1 3/4"-2"-2".
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the heel stitches (= 11-11-13-13 stitches on each side of the marker thread). The marker thread follows the piece until you start decreasing for the toe. This makes it easier to get the decreases for the toe in the right place. Continue by decreasing for the heel – SEE HEEL DECREASE! After you have decreased for the heel, knit up 11-12-13-13 stitches on each side of the heel and the 22-22-30-32 stitches from the thread are placed back on the needle = 54-56-68-70 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread on each side of the 22-22-30-32 stitches mid top of foot. Continue working stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease in each side as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches before the 22-22-30-32 stitches mid top of foot twisted together (i.e. you work in the back of the stitch instead of the front), the first 2 stitches after the 22-22-30-32 stitches are knitted together. Decrease in this way every 2nd round a total of 6-6-10-10 times = 42-44-48-50 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 11-13-14-16 cm / 4½"-5"-5½"-6 1/4" from the marker thread on the heel – there is 4-4-4-4 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½" left until finished length. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of each side so that there are 21-22-24-25 stitches between the marker threads (the marker thread in the heel is mid under the foot). Continue by decreasing for the toe on each side of both marker threads – READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat the decreases in each side every 2nd round a total of 6-6-5-5 times and then every round 2-2-4-4 times = 10-12-12-14 stitches left on the needle. On the next round, knit 2 and 2 stitches together. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten the strand well.
Work 1 more sock in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = denim blue
symbols = off white
symbols = black
symbols = pistachio
symbols = coral
symbols = decrease round- see description in the text
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 28-10

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Mari Färnefors wrote:

Får det inte att gå ihop! Lägg upp 64 maskor. Minska sen 12, det blir 52 kvar. Sticka mönster A1 6ggr som är 8 maskor . Det är 48 maskor. Vad gör jag av de 4 maskor som är kvar då?

31.10.2022 - 12:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mari. Du må også strikke A.2 (4 masker). Altså strikk: A.1 (= 8 masker) 6 ganger i bredden = 48 masker og så strikkes det A.2 (= 4 masker) = 48+4= 52 masker, som du har på pinnen. mvh DROPS Design

31.10.2022 - 13:48

country flag Silje wrote:

Hei. Er det bare jeg som ikke forstår dette eller stemmer de ikke med antall masker i mønster A1? 8m × 6 ganger er jo 48 å du skal jo ha 52 masker på pinne. Jeg får ikke dette til å stemme?

08.08.2022 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Silje, Etter du har strikket A.1 x 6 skal du strikke A.2 (4 masker). Da har du 52 masker. God fornøyelse!

09.08.2022 - 07:07

country flag Rochelle wrote:

Do you have instructions for adult sizes?

16.10.2021 - 05:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rochelle, unfortunately we do not have this pattern in adult sizes, but you can follow a plain sock pattern, adjust it to the appropriate stitch number and use the diagrams. Happy Stitching!

17.10.2021 - 00:22

country flag Michaela wrote:

Ich stricke erst 6x A1 und dann die 4 Maschen von A2? Oder 6x A1 und A2?

23.01.2021 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, A.2 wird nur am Ende der Runde gestrickt, dh Sie wiederholen zuerst 6 Mal die 8 Maschen von A.1 dann enden Sie die Runde mit A.2. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.01.2021 - 09:10

country flag Delacroix Jacqueline wrote:

Bonjour J ai décelé une erreur dans les explication du modèle de chaussettes 28_10. En effet il y a 2 fois trop de diminutions au début du pied de la chaussettes. A savoir 6 ou 10 3 et 5 suffisent. Bonne journée

21.11.2020 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Delacroix, quand vous avez relevé toutes les mailles pour le pied (après les diminutions du talon: 10-10-12-12 m) + les 11-12-13-13 m relevées de chaque côté + les 22-22-30-32 m du dessus du pied = 54-56-68-70 m - 2 m x 6-6-10-10 (= moins 12-12-20-20 m) = 42-44-48-50 m. Bon tricot!

23.11.2020 - 10:59

country flag Emma wrote:

Thankyou for answering my questions, I really will try my best to make these socks. Thankyou for the pattern

24.06.2019 - 01:03

country flag Emma wrote:

Also is charts read left t right or all from right to left

22.06.2019 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, knitting patterns (especially those knitted on teh round) should be always knitted from right to left just as you knit the stitches from the needles from right to left. Happy Knitting!

23.06.2019 - 08:51

country flag Emma wrote:

So do you knit 1row of a1 then 4stiches of a2. I'm confused

22.06.2019 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, when you start to knit the pattern, you should knit pattern A.1 6 or 7 times (depending on the size) and the 4 stitches of pattern A.2 in the same round to finish the round. Happy Knitting!

23.06.2019 - 08:49

country flag Jasmin Braun wrote:

Ich stricke die Gr 32/34 und sie ist meine Tochter zu eng, obwohl sie sehr schmal ist und Gr 31 trägt. Das Bündchen passt aber dann wird es eng. Gibt es eine Umrechnungstabelle..bei 4fädrige Sockenwolle habe ich auch die gleiche Maschenzahl und diese passt. Woran liegt das?

13.06.2019 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Braun, stimmt Ihre Maschenproben? Sie sollen 26 M = 10 cm haben. Vielleicht ist der Anschlagsrand etwas zu eng? Die Maschen können Sie dann z.B. mit einer größeren Nadel anschlagen, dann weiter mit der Nadel (mit der Sie die 26 M = 10 cm bekommen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.06.2019 - 07:19

country flag Donna wrote:

You have the wrong pattern this is not theTriangle Scarf Crochet in Drops Flora Please send me the correct site

25.03.2018 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Donna, are you looking for this pattern? Happy crocheting!

26.03.2018 - 11:30