DROPS Baby / 29 / 3

So Charming by DROPS Design

The baby set is made up of: Dress for Christening or special occasions, worked top down with raglan and open fan pattern in DROPS Safran. Crochet hat with flower squares and fan edge in DROPS Safran. Sizes 0 - 2 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no e-075-by
Yarn group A
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DRESS:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
Full length:
35-40-44 (49) cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4) (dress of normal length)
67-72-76 (81) cm / 26½"-28½"-30" (32") (long dress)
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200 (200) g color 17, white (for dress of normal length)
350-400-450 (500) g color 17, white (for long dress)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM/E/4 – or the size needed to get 22 double crochets in width and 8 textured rows in height on 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
A.1B measures 5.5 cm / 2 1/4'' in width and rounds 1-4 in A.1B measure approx. 4 cm / 1½'' in height.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO 600: 3 items for all sizes.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 2.5-3 metres silk ribbon (approx. 15 mm wide).

HAT:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
For head measurements: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm / 16"-17"-17" 3/4" (19")
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100 (100) g color 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 half double crochets in width and 19.5 rows in height on 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
1 flower square measures 11 x 11 cm / 4½" x 4½'' in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months and 12 x 12 cm / 4 3/4" x 4¾'' in size 2 years.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 1 metre/1.2 yds silk ribbon (approx. 5 mm/1/4" wide).

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Comments (16)

100% Cotton
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DRESS:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round/row of single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round. When working back and forth, finish the row with 1 single crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of double crochets.
At the beginning of each round/row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round. When working back and forth finish the row with 1 double crochet in the chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of single crochets.

TEXTURED ROWS
* 1 row/round single crochets, 1 row/round double crochets *, repeat from *-* (1 row/round single crochets + 1 row/round double crochets = 1 textured row).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 single crochet/double crochet by working 2 single crochets/double crochets in the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To work out how often you should increase on the round, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 136 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 57) = 2.4. In this example, you increase approx. alternately every 2nd and 3rd stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. It is worked back and forth from mid back until after the split mid back, then the piece is continued in the round to desired length (normal dress length or long dress) – see description in text.

YOKE:
Work 94-99-104 (104) chain stitches (including 1 stitch to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Safran. The first row is worked as follows: 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, * 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* until there are 0-1-2-2 chain stitches left and finish with 1 single crochet in each of the 0-1-2-2 last chain stitches = 70-74-78 (78) single crochets on the row.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece to raglan as follows (start mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting the marker threads): Skip 10-11-12 (12) single crochets (= right back piece when the garment is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 13 single crochets (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 20-22-24 (24) single crochets (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 13 single crochets (= sleeve) and insert the last marker thread in the next single crochet (there are now 10-11-12 (12) single crochets on the left back piece after the last marker thread.
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
READ CROCHET INFO and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but in each single crochet with a marker thread work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets = 82-86-90 (90) double crochets on the row.
Continue by working TEXTURED ROWS – see description above (work back and forth with 1 single crochet/double crochet in each stitch from the previous row, but on every row with single crochet from the wrong side work 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row in the raglan lines).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side (i.e. row of double crochets) increase to raglan as follows: Work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets around each chain-space in each raglan line (= 16 double crochets increased on the row – NOTE: Work around both chain-spaces). Repeat the increase on each row from the right side, a total of 4-5-5 (6) times = 146-166-170 (186) stitches on the row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After the last increase to raglan work 1 row with single crochets from the wrong side as before (with 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 20-23-24 (26) double crochets (= right back piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 40-46-48 (52) single crochets (= front piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 20-23-24 (26) single crochets (= left back piece).
The yoke is now finished and the piece is continued in the round.

BODY:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid back with the right side out (beginning of the round = mid back) and work 1 round of single crochets (work 1 single crochet in each double crochet from the previous round and 1 single crochet in each chain stitch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 96-104-116 (124) single crochets on the round. Now work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but increase 6-4-4 (8) double crochets evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 and 2 = 102-108-120 (132) double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 double crochet in the first/next single crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 single crochets *, repeat from *-* the whole round = 34-36-40 (44) double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space = 136-144-160 (176) single crochets.
ROUND 5: Work single crochet and increase 57-61-57 (53) single crochets evenly along the round = 193-205-217 (229) single crochets.
Continue by working pattern according to A.1, i.e. work A.1A over the first stitch, then work 16-17-18 (19) repeats of A.1B.
When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, repeat rounds 2-5 onwards until the piece measures approx. 23-28-32 (37) cm / 9"-11"-12½" (14½") from the shoulder, if you are making the dress of normal length or until the piece measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm / 13"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4") from the shoulder if you are making the long dress – NOTE: Adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. Continue working as follows (follow the description for the dress of normal length or the long dress):

DRESS OF NORMAL LENGTH:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 3 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The dress measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm / 13"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4") from the shoulder down.

LONG DRESS:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 8 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The long dress measures approx. 67-72-76 (81) cm / 26½"-28½"-30" (32") from the shoulder down.

BOTH DRESSES:

SHAPING THE NECKLINE:
For a better fit you can work a small elevation at the back of the neck. Insert 1 marker thread in the stitch in each “corner” of the neck, i.e. at the start of each raglan line and insert 1 marker mid front.
Work with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Safran as follows: Start mid back and work 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, work 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 single crochet in each stitch until there are 4-5-5 (5) stitches left before the marker mid front. Turn the piece and work 1 single crochet in each single crochet back to mid back, but by each marker thread work 3 single crochets together, i.e. work 1 single crochet in the half double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the double crochet stitch with the marker thread, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the next half double crochet, but now pull the last yarn over through all 4 stitches on the hook (= 2 single crochets decreased). Cut the strand and repeat from mid back to mid front and back again to mid back in the other side.

BUTTON BANDS AT THE BACK:
Work along the left opening mid back as follows: 1 single crochet around each single crochet row and 2 single crochet around each double crochet row. Work a total of 4 rows of single crochets back and forth, cut and fasten the strand.
Along the right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (start from the right side by the neckline): Work 3 single crochets (1 single crochet around the single crochet row and 2 single crochets around the double crochet row), 4 chain stitches (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work single crochets to approx. the middle of the band, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work single crochets until there is 1 cm / 3/8'' left on the band, 4 chain stitches and fasten with 1 single crochet in the last stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. Fasten the buttons to the band on the left side.

PICOT EDGE AROUND NECK:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 single crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in the next stitch*, repeat from *-* the whole row, cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE AROUND THE SLEEVE:
Work around the sleeve opening as follows: 1 single crochet in each of the 8-6-10 (10) stitches mid under the sleeve and 1 single crochet in each of the 33-37-37 (41) single crochets over the sleeve = 41-43-47 (51) single crochets on the round. Continue by working as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but increase 1-5-1 (0) double crochets evenly along the round = 42-48-48 (51) double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 double crochet in the first/next single crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 single crochets *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 14-16-16 (17) double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space, but 7-3-3 (7) times on the round, work only 2 single crochets around the chain-space = 49-61-61 (61) single crochets.
Continue working pattern in the round according to diagrams A.1A and A.1B in the same way as on the body = 4-5-5 (5) fans on the round. When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, cut and fasten the strand. Repeat around the other sleeve.

SILK RIBBON:
Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes under the yoke – start and finish mid front and tie a bow mid front.
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HAT:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of half double crochets, replace the first half double crochet with 2 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 and A.4.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 single crochet by working 2 single crochets together as follows: Work 1 single crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next single crochet, but when you make the last pull through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook – you have now decreased 1 single crochet.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 half double crochet by working 2 half double crochets in the same stitch.
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HAT:
The hat is made up of 3 flower squares which are sewn together in a row. Then you work a circle which becomes the back of the hat and which is sewn to the hat itself. Then you work an edge at the bottom of the hat before working a fan edge at the front.

FLOWER SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and Safran and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working in the round according to diagram A.3 – READ CROCHET INFO AND REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.3 has been completed there are 22 half double crochets on each of the sides and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square measures approx. 11 x 11 cm / 4½" x 4½'' and is finished now in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months. Cut and fasten the strand in these sizes. In size 2 years work one more round as described below.

SIZE (2) YEARS:
Work 2 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 half double crochet), continue by working 1 half double crochet in each half double crochet from the previous round (around the chain-space in the corner work 2 half double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 half double crochets), finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are now 26 half double crochets along each side and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square now measures approx.12 x 12 cm / 4 3/4" x 4¾''. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work 2 more flower squares for all sizes. Place the 3 squares in a row and sew them together, two and two with small neat stitches – sew with a stitch in each stitch.

CIRCLE AT THE BACK OF THE HAT (this part will be sewn onto the squares):
Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue as follows – READ CROCHET INFO and INCREASE TIP:
ROUND 1: 9 half double crochet around the ring.
ROUND 2: 2 half double crochets in each stitch = 18 half double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 half double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 27 half double crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 2 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 36 half double crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 half double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 18 half double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 6: * 2 half double crochets around the first/next chain-space, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 54 half double crochets.
ROUND 7: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 5 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 63 half double crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 6 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 72 half double crochets.
ROUND 9: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 7 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 81 half double crochets. Size 0/6 months finishes here (the piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' in diameter).
ROUND 10: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 8 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 90 half double crochets.
ROUND 11: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 45 half double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 12: Work 2 half double crochets around each chain-space = 90 half double crochets. Sizes 6/12 + 12/18 months finish here (the piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' in diameter).

SIZE (2) YEARS:
ROUND 13: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 9 stitches, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 99 half double crochets. Size (2) years finishes here (the piece measures approx. 13 cm / 5 1/8'' in diameter).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the one long side of the row of squares to the circle, with 1 stitch in each stitch – make sure the seam is not tight. There will be an opening at the bottom of the hat of 9-18-18 (15) stitch.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HAT:
Start from the right side with 1 slip stitch in the outermost corner of the row of squares and then work along the whole of the bottom edge of the hat with 1 single crochet in each stitch = 57-66-66 (71) single crochets, turn the piece. Continue working 0-0-1 (2) rows of 1 half double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0 (1) half double crochet evenly spaced = 57-66-66 (72) half double crochets. Work 1 row of double crochets (work 1 double crochet in each stitch). Finally work 0-0-1 (2) rows of half double crochets and 1 row of single crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE IN THE FRONT OF THE HAT:
Start from the wrong side in the bottom corner at the front of the hat and work as follows – remember CROCHET INFO:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch, 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet), continue by working 1 double crochet in each stitch/row/row of half double crochets, 2 double crochets around each double crochet row at the bottom of the hat and 1 double crochet around each chain-space in the corners of the squares = approx. 80-80-84 (100) stitches, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work a row of single crochets where the number of stitches is adjusted to 81-81-81 (99) stitches (divisible by 6 + 3) – READ DECREASE TIP/INCREASE TIP.
Then work fan edge according to A.4. When A.4 has been completed, cut the strand and fasten it.

Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of double crochets at the bottom of the hat and all the way to the fan edge.
If you would like further decoration, you can thread silk ribbon up and down through the double crochet row at the front of the hat as well. This silk ribbon is not tied, so the ends need to be folded in and fastened on the wrong side of the piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= this round is described in the text
= the round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch
= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet in the top of picot
= single crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= chain stitch
= 1 picot: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
= 1 picot: 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
= double crochet around chain-space
= double crochet in stitch from previous round
= the round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round
= single crochet worked in this double crochet
= 4 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch (the round starts and ends at point)
= slip stitch in stitch
= the round starts with 1 single crochet in the first single crochet from the beginning of the previous round, but work behind last round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet
= single crochet in stitch, but work behind the last round (the chain-row worked on this round should be behind the leaf from previous round).
= the round starts with 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet around first chain stitch/chain-space and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet from beginning of the round
= half double crochet in stitch/around chain-space
= 1 single crochet + 1 half double crochet + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 half double crochet + 1 chain stitch around first/next chain
= 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 3 double crochets in same single crochet
= the round starts with 3 chain stitches + 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 double crochets in first stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
= 4 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 double crochets in same single crochet
= treble crochet in stitch
= 4 chain stitches, bend the double crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the double crochet group
= 5 chain stitches, bend the double crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the double crochet group
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch in middle of double crochet group from the 4th round
= 1 picot: Work 1 single crochet around first/next chain stitch, 2 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked
= this row is the last row on the hat before A.4



Comments (16)

Leave your comment!

Alissa 22.06.2018 - 21:02:

Do the rounds on the bottom of the dress (diagram) slip stitch to a chain every round?

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 08:07:

Dear Alissa, when working the bottom of the dress, replace 1st st with 1/3ch and finish with 1 sl st in the 1st/3rd ch from beg of round - see INFO CROCHET. When working diagrams, work the first st on round as A.1a - see diagram - it also shows how to finish the round. Happy crocheting!

Schmieder 21.06.2018 - 23:05:

Das gehäkelte Taufkleid ist einfach ein Traum. Ich habe es vor ein paar Monaten auf der Webseite von DaWanda gesehen. Jetzt ist es aber leider nicht mehr dort zu finden. Wer kann mir dieses wunderschöne Kleid und die dazugehörigen Schühchen für meine Tochter zur Taufe (im August dieses Jahr) häkeln? Ich wäre für eine Rückmeldung sehr dankbar.\r\nViele Grüße Natalija

DROPS Design 22.06.2018 kl. 08:14:

Liebe Frau Schmieder, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit unseren DROPS Laden auf, sie können Ihnen gerne weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marianne Koch 14.06.2018 - 08:42:

Så er jeg her lige igen :) den ovale ring der er ud fra 2 tallet i A.1A hvad betyder den? og menes der at man skal hækle rundt allerede fra hvor man starter ryg/forstykke?tænker bare at slidsen i det lille bærestykke ikke er stor nok til at få barnet ned :) på forhånd tak for hjælpen

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 10:16:

Hej Marianne, den betyder at omgangen starter med 3 luftmasker og afsluttes med 1 kædemaske i 3.luftmaske fra begyndelsen af omgangen. Jo men det skal være stort nok til at få over hovedet :)

Marianne Koch 11.06.2018 - 16:15:

Jeg forstår ikke tællingen på bære stykket da der er 70 masker og man lave 2x stangmas,2x luft, 2x stangm i de 4 trådmasker det giver da en forøgelse i masker på 16 masker og man lander så på 86 og ikke 82 masker som der står...?

DROPS Design 12.06.2018 kl. 11:36:

Hej Marianne, istedet for 1st i m med mærketråd hækler du 2st,2lm,2st det vil sige at du hækler 3 masker mere end ellers på alle 4 raglan-overgange = 12 masker mere første gang. God fornøjelse!

Angie 09.05.2018 - 22:07:

When shaping the neckline, is there an 8 stich gap at the front of the dress? I'm well on my way to finishing this beautiful gown and need some instruction. How then does the picot around the neck work?

DROPS Design 10.05.2018 kl. 09:15:

Dear Angie, when shaping the neckline you will work an elevation, ie 8 sts (in the first size) will be left unworked on mid front (= 4 sts on each side of the marker on mid front). The picot edge will be then worked afterwards along whole neck: starting on the left back piece along the button band to the right back piece along the button band. Happy crocheting!

Aishling 03.03.2018 - 18:56:

Hi i have completed the yoke part if the pattern but I'm not sure wether to do the sleeves and neckline before continuing on with the dress part if the pattern? Thanks

DROPS Design 04.03.2018 kl. 18:06:

Dear Aishling, if you only have a definite (or limited) amount of yarn, do the sleeves, and the neckline first, and then you can do the bodice/skirt part as long as your yarn lasts. Otherwise you can do them in any order you prefer. Happy crocheting!

Stephanie 26.02.2018 - 08:54:

Beste, Klopt het dat er patronen weg zijn op de website voor dit doopkleed te kunnen maken? Want met de gewone uitleg geraak ik niet verder. Mn little girl zou in juni gedoopt worden. Alvast bedankt Stephanie

DROPS Design 26.02.2018 kl. 10:41:

Dag Stephanie, Nee, er zijn geen patronen verwijderd van de site, er worden wel regelmatig nieuwe patronen geplaatst, waardoor de oudere naar achteren doorschuiven. De doopjurken staan onder de categorie 'baby'. De layout van de site is onlangs wel een beetje aangepast, waardoor de patronen anders worden weergegeven, maar alles staat er nog wel op.

Siv-helen Alterskjær 17.02.2018 - 21:41:

Her kom jeg veldig til kort... disse diagrammene er jo helt uforståelig, går det ikke an å forklare med tekst hvordan det gjøres? spesielt A1A og A1B +A2A og A2B da jeg kun skal hekle kjolen.

DROPS Design 21.02.2018 kl. 14:48:

Hej Siv-Helen, vi har desværre ingen video på disse diagrammer endnu. Prøv at læse diagramforklaringen og tag gerne arbejdet med til butikken hvor du har købt garnet. De kan helt sikkert hjælpe dig med at komme igang. God fornøjelse!

Anne 14.11.2017 - 08:48:

Please tell me how to do row 2 on chart A.1B how many chains are there between the single crochet stitches as some of 5he dashes are longer

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 09:39:

Dear Anne, the dashes may have different length due to the diagram, but 1 dash = 1 chain as explained under 6th symbol. On row 2 in A.1B, work first 3 ch, then 1 sc in next picot, 5 chains, 1 sc in next picot and so on. Happy crocheting!

Brunhild 21.10.2017 - 12:45:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Passe. Sie schreiben, dass man in Strukturreihen ( Hinreihe feste Maschen und Rückreihe Stäbchen ) häkeln soll. Dann heißt es plötzlich Rückreihe ( feste Maschen) ..... Aber in der Rückreihe sind doch die Stäbchen.

DROPS Design 23.10.2017 kl. 10:04:

Liebe Frau Brunhild, die Stb sind in der Hinreihe gehäkelt, und die feste Maschen in der Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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