DROPS Baby / 29 / 3

So Charming by DROPS Design

The baby set is made up of: Dress for Christening or special occasions, worked top down with raglan and open fan pattern in DROPS Safran. Crochet hat with flower squares and fan edge in DROPS Safran. Sizes 0 - 2 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern no e-075-by
Yarn group A
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DRESS:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
Full length:
35-40-44 (49) cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4) (dress of normal length)
67-72-76 (81) cm / 26½"-28½"-30" (32") (long dress)
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200 (200) g color 17, white (for dress of normal length)
350-400-450 (500) g color 17, white (for long dress)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM/E/4 – or the size needed to get 22 double crochets in width and 8 textured rows in height on 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
A.1B measures 5.5 cm / 2 1/4'' in width and rounds 1-4 in A.1B measure approx. 4 cm / 1½'' in height.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO 600: 3 items for all sizes.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 2.5-3 metres silk ribbon (approx. 15 mm wide).

HAT:
Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2) years
For head measurements: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50) cm / 16"-17"-17" 3/4" (19")
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100 (100) g color 17, white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 half double crochets in width and 19.5 rows in height on 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
1 flower square measures 11 x 11 cm / 4½" x 4½'' in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months and 12 x 12 cm / 4 3/4" x 4¾'' in size 2 years.
ACCESSORIES: Approx. 1 metre/1.2 yds silk ribbon (approx. 5 mm/1/4" wide).

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
DRESS:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round/row of single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round. When working back and forth, finish the row with 1 single crochet in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of double crochets.
At the beginning of each round/row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. When working in the round, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round. When working back and forth finish the row with 1 double crochet in the chain stitch from the beginning of the previous row of single crochets.

TEXTURED ROWS
* 1 row/round single crochets, 1 row/round double crochets *, repeat from *-* (1 row/round single crochets + 1 row/round double crochets = 1 textured row).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 single crochet/double crochet by working 2 single crochets/double crochets in the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To work out how often you should increase on the round, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 136 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 57) = 2.4. In this example, you increase approx. alternately every 2nd and 3rd stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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DRESS:
The piece is worked top down. It is worked back and forth from mid back until after the split mid back, then the piece is continued in the round to desired length (normal dress length or long dress) – see description in text.

YOKE:
Work 94-99-104 (104) chain stitches (including 1 stitch to turn) with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Safran. The first row is worked as follows: 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, * 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* until there are 0-1-2-2 chain stitches left and finish with 1 single crochet in each of the 0-1-2-2 last chain stitches = 70-74-78 (78) single crochets on the row.
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece to raglan as follows (start mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting the marker threads): Skip 10-11-12 (12) single crochets (= right back piece when the garment is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 13 single crochets (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 20-22-24 (24) single crochets (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next single crochet, skip 13 single crochets (= sleeve) and insert the last marker thread in the next single crochet (there are now 10-11-12 (12) single crochets on the left back piece after the last marker thread.
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
READ CROCHET INFO and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but in each single crochet with a marker thread work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets = 82-86-90 (90) double crochets on the row.
Continue by working TEXTURED ROWS – see description above (work back and forth with 1 single crochet/double crochet in each stitch from the previous row, but on every row with single crochet from the wrong side work 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row in the raglan lines).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side (i.e. row of double crochets) increase to raglan as follows: Work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets around each chain-space in each raglan line (= 16 double crochets increased on the row – NOTE: Work around both chain-spaces). Repeat the increase on each row from the right side, a total of 4-5-5 (6) times = 146-166-170 (186) stitches on the row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After the last increase to raglan work 1 row with single crochets from the wrong side as before (with 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 20-23-24 (26) double crochets (= right back piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 40-46-48 (52) single crochets (= front piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10) LOOSE chain stitches and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 20-23-24 (26) single crochets (= left back piece).
The yoke is now finished and the piece is continued in the round.

BODY:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid back with the right side out (beginning of the round = mid back) and work 1 round of single crochets (work 1 single crochet in each double crochet from the previous round and 1 single crochet in each chain stitch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 96-104-116 (124) single crochets on the round. Now work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but increase 6-4-4 (8) double crochets evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 and 2 = 102-108-120 (132) double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 double crochet in the first/next single crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 single crochets *, repeat from *-* the whole round = 34-36-40 (44) double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space = 136-144-160 (176) single crochets.
ROUND 5: Work single crochet and increase 57-61-57 (53) single crochets evenly along the round = 193-205-217 (229) single crochets.
Continue by working pattern according to A.1, i.e. work A.1A over the first stitch, then work 16-17-18 (19) repeats of A.1B.
When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, repeat rounds 2-5 onwards until the piece measures approx. 23-28-32 (37) cm / 9"-11"-12½" (14½") from the shoulder, if you are making the dress of normal length or until the piece measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm / 13"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4") from the shoulder if you are making the long dress – NOTE: Adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. Continue working as follows (follow the description for the dress of normal length or the long dress):

DRESS OF NORMAL LENGTH:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 3 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The dress measures approx. 35-40-44 (49) cm / 13"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4") from the shoulder down.

LONG DRESS:
Now repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked a total of 8 repeats in height of A.2 (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The long dress measures approx. 67-72-76 (81) cm / 26½"-28½"-30" (32") from the shoulder down.

BOTH DRESSES:

SHAPING THE NECKLINE:
For a better fit you can work a small elevation at the back of the neck. Insert 1 marker thread in the stitch in each “corner” of the neck, i.e. at the start of each raglan line and insert 1 marker mid front.
Work with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Safran as follows: Start mid back and work 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, work 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, continue by working 1 single crochet in each stitch until there are 4-5-5 (5) stitches left before the marker mid front. Turn the piece and work 1 single crochet in each single crochet back to mid back, but by each marker thread work 3 single crochets together, i.e. work 1 single crochet in the half double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the double crochet stitch with the marker thread, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the next half double crochet, but now pull the last yarn over through all 4 stitches on the hook (= 2 single crochets decreased). Cut the strand and repeat from mid back to mid front and back again to mid back in the other side.

BUTTON BANDS AT THE BACK:
Work along the left opening mid back as follows: 1 single crochet around each single crochet row and 2 single crochet around each double crochet row. Work a total of 4 rows of single crochets back and forth, cut and fasten the strand.
Along the right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (start from the right side by the neckline): Work 3 single crochets (1 single crochet around the single crochet row and 2 single crochets around the double crochet row), 4 chain stitches (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work single crochets to approx. the middle of the band, 4 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'', work single crochets until there is 1 cm / 3/8'' left on the band, 4 chain stitches and fasten with 1 single crochet in the last stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. Fasten the buttons to the band on the left side.

PICOT EDGE AROUND NECK:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 single crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in the next stitch*, repeat from *-* the whole row, cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE AROUND THE SLEEVE:
Work around the sleeve opening as follows: 1 single crochet in each of the 8-6-10 (10) stitches mid under the sleeve and 1 single crochet in each of the 33-37-37 (41) single crochets over the sleeve = 41-43-47 (51) single crochets on the round. Continue by working as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but increase 1-5-1 (0) double crochets evenly along the round = 42-48-48 (51) double crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3 (= row of holes for the silk ribbon): * 1 double crochet in the first/next single crochet, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 single crochets *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 14-16-16 (17) double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 4: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space, but 7-3-3 (7) times on the round, work only 2 single crochets around the chain-space = 49-61-61 (61) single crochets.
Continue working pattern in the round according to diagrams A.1A and A.1B in the same way as on the body = 4-5-5 (5) fans on the round. When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, cut and fasten the strand. Repeat around the other sleeve.

SILK RIBBON:
Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of holes under the yoke – start and finish mid front and tie a bow mid front.
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HAT:

CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round of half double crochets, replace the first half double crochet with 2 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches, the round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.3 and A.4.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 single crochet by working 2 single crochets together as follows: Work 1 single crochet but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on the hook), then work the next single crochet, but when you make the last pull through, pull the strand through all the loops on the hook – you have now decreased 1 single crochet.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 half double crochet by working 2 half double crochets in the same stitch.
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HAT:
The hat is made up of 3 flower squares which are sewn together in a row. Then you work a circle which becomes the back of the hat and which is sewn to the hat itself. Then you work an edge at the bottom of the hat before working a fan edge at the front.

FLOWER SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and Safran and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working in the round according to diagram A.3 – READ CROCHET INFO AND REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.3 has been completed there are 22 half double crochets on each of the sides and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square measures approx. 11 x 11 cm / 4½" x 4½'' and is finished now in sizes 0/6 + 6/12 + 12/18 months. Cut and fasten the strand in these sizes. In size 2 years work one more round as described below.

SIZE (2) YEARS:
Work 2 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 half double crochet), continue by working 1 half double crochet in each half double crochet from the previous round (around the chain-space in the corner work 2 half double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 half double crochets), finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. There are now 26 half double crochets along each side and 2 chain stitches in each corner. The square now measures approx.12 x 12 cm / 4 3/4" x 4¾''. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work 2 more flower squares for all sizes. Place the 3 squares in a row and sew them together, two and two with small neat stitches – sew with a stitch in each stitch.

CIRCLE AT THE BACK OF THE HAT (this part will be sewn onto the squares):
Work 4 chain stitches and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue as follows – READ CROCHET INFO and INCREASE TIP:
ROUND 1: 9 half double crochet around the ring.
ROUND 2: 2 half double crochets in each stitch = 18 half double crochets.
ROUND 3: * 1 half double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 27 half double crochets.
ROUND 4: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 2 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 36 half double crochets.
ROUND 5: * 1 half double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 18 half double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 6: * 2 half double crochets around the first/next chain-space, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 54 half double crochets.
ROUND 7: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 5 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 63 half double crochets.
ROUND 8: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 6 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 72 half double crochets.
ROUND 9: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 7 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 81 half double crochets. Size 0/6 months finishes here (the piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4'' in diameter).
ROUND 10: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 8 stitches, 2 half double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 90 half double crochets.
ROUND 11: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 1 stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 45 half double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each.
ROUND 12: Work 2 half double crochets around each chain-space = 90 half double crochets. Sizes 6/12 + 12/18 months finish here (the piece measures approx. 12 cm / 4¾'' in diameter).

SIZE (2) YEARS:
ROUND 13: * 1 half double crochet in each of the first/next 9 stitches, 1 half double crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to the end of the round = 99 half double crochets. Size (2) years finishes here (the piece measures approx. 13 cm / 5 1/8'' in diameter).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the one long side of the row of squares to the circle, with 1 stitch in each stitch – make sure the seam is not tight. There will be an opening at the bottom of the hat of 9-18-18 (15) stitch.

EDGE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE HAT:
Start from the right side with 1 slip stitch in the outermost corner of the row of squares and then work along the whole of the bottom edge of the hat with 1 single crochet in each stitch = 57-66-66 (71) single crochets, turn the piece. Continue working 0-0-1 (2) rows of 1 half double crochet in each stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-0-0 (1) half double crochet evenly spaced = 57-66-66 (72) half double crochets. Work 1 row of double crochets (work 1 double crochet in each stitch). Finally work 0-0-1 (2) rows of half double crochets and 1 row of single crochet. Cut and fasten the strand.

FAN EDGE IN THE FRONT OF THE HAT:
Start from the wrong side in the bottom corner at the front of the hat and work as follows – remember CROCHET INFO:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 1 slip stitch in the outermost stitch, 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 double crochet), continue by working 1 double crochet in each stitch/row/row of half double crochets, 2 double crochets around each double crochet row at the bottom of the hat and 1 double crochet around each chain-space in the corners of the squares = approx. 80-80-84 (100) stitches, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= right side): Work a row of single crochets where the number of stitches is adjusted to 81-81-81 (99) stitches (divisible by 6 + 3) – READ DECREASE TIP/INCREASE TIP.
Then work fan edge according to A.4. When A.4 has been completed, cut the strand and fasten it.

Thread the silk ribbon up and down through the row of double crochets at the bottom of the hat and all the way to the fan edge.
If you would like further decoration, you can thread silk ribbon up and down through the double crochet row at the front of the hat as well. This silk ribbon is not tied, so the ends need to be folded in and fastened on the wrong side of the piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= this round is described in the text
= the round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch
= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet in the top of picot
= single crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
= chain stitch
= 1 picot: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
= 1 picot: 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
= double crochet around chain-space
= double crochet in stitch from previous round
= the round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round
= single crochet worked in this double crochet
= 4 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch (the round starts and ends at point)
= slip stitch in stitch
= the round starts with 1 single crochet in the first single crochet from the beginning of the previous round, but work behind last round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet
= single crochet in stitch, but work behind the last round (the chain-row worked on this round should be behind the leaf from previous round).
= the round starts with 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet around first chain stitch/chain-space and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first single crochet from beginning of the round
= half double crochet in stitch/around chain-space
= 1 single crochet + 1 half double crochet + 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet + 1 half double crochet + 1 chain stitch around first/next chain
= 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 3 double crochets in same single crochet
= the round starts with 3 chain stitches + 3 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 double crochets in first stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round
= 4 double crochets + 1 chain stitch + 4 double crochets in same single crochet
= treble crochet in stitch
= 4 chain stitches, bend the double crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the double crochet group
= 5 chain stitches, bend the double crochet group forwards and allow the chain-space to lie behind the double crochet group
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch in middle of double crochet group from the 4th round
= 1 picot: Work 1 single crochet around first/next chain stitch, 2 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked
= this row is the last row on the hat before A.4



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 29-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Pia Vind 25.05.2020 - 21:07:

Jeg forstår ikke diagram A.1B. Hvordan skal række 2,3,4 og 5 forståes?

DROPS Design 27.05.2020 kl. 13:40:

Hej Pia, 2. række starter du med lm ifølge diagrammet hækler 1 fm i toppen af picot, 5 lm, 1 fm i toppen af picot, 5 lm osv. 3. række starter du med lm ifølge diagrammet, 1 fm om lm-buen, 8 stangmasker om lm-buen, 1 fm om næste lm-bue, 6 lm, 1fm om næste lm-bue og så 8 st om næste lm-bue igen osv... God fornøjelse!

Sarah Terese Wikkelsø Skovmand 07.04.2020 - 08:19:

Hej. Ved Ryg og forstykke står det at arbejdet måles herfra, som er under ærmegab, men efter diagrammet instruktionen i samme sektion står der at man skal måle fra skulderen, hvilken instruktion er den rigtige?

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 13:38:

Hej Sara, jeg kan se at målene stemmer med dem i måleskitsen når der måles fra skulderen og ned, så følg dem :)

Heidi 06.04.2020 - 19:48:

I diagrammerne skal man vende arbejde efter hver række eller hækle rundt. På forhånd tak

DROPS Design 15.04.2020 kl. 12:44:

Hei Heidi. Når du hekler etter diagram A.1 og A.2 (a+b) skal det hekles rundt. A viser hvordan du starter omgangen og avslutter omgangene og B viser hvordan du hekler rundt. God Fornøyelse!

Elma Rún 06.04.2020 - 15:50:

Ég er að byrja hekla þennan kjól og á svoltið erfitt með að átta mig á hvar ég byrja, getið þið útskýrt aðeins nánar fyrir mér hvar ég byrja og hvernig ? Takk kærlega. :)

DROPS Design 06.04.2020 kl. 17:14:

Blessuð! Kjóllinn er heklaður frá hálsmáli og niður. Það er op við miðju að aftan og því er kjólinn heklaður fyrst fram og til baka. Þú fylgir leiðbeiningum um berustykki og setur 4 prjónamerki í stykkið sem merkja útaukningu fyrir laskalínu. Þú byrjar að hekla í hring þegar komið er að fram- og bakstykki og heklar að óskaðri lengd. Í lokin er hekluð smá upphækkun í hálsmáli svo að kjóllinn passi betur. Kantur fyrir tölur er heklaður meðfram opi að aftan í lokin. Gangi þér vel.

Alies 02.04.2020 - 20:30:

Goedenavond, Is het ook mogelijk om lange mouwen te haken ipv korte?

DROPS Design 04.04.2020 kl. 18:49:

Dag Alies,

Er is helaas geen patroon met lange mouwen, maar je bent natuurlijk altijd vrij om het patroon aan te passen. Voordat je de waaiierrand om de mouw haakt, zou je dan extra toeren met stokjes kunnen haken, met evt. minderingen midden onder de mouw.

Caroline Jørgensen 28.03.2020 - 12:44:

Hej :-) Jeg er nået til 2. omg i A1 diagrammet og jeg forstår ikke helt hvilke type masker stregerne repræsentere? Mvh Caroline

DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 11:43:

Hej Caroline, stregerne er luftmasker. God fornøjelse!

Nadene Saxton 13.03.2020 - 07:13:

This comment is for SANDRA. I hope you read this. Please email me and I can help you with this. I am currently working on this and have pretty much got it down. Snowgirl underscore 30 where it's hot mail.

Sandra 22.02.2020 - 16:58:

I’m working on A1 B it say to repeat 16 times for the size I’m making is that 16 rows what I’m I repeating

Sandra 20.02.2020 - 15:26:

Are the dashes for chain stitch represent the number of chain stitch you are to do?

DROPS Design 20.02.2020 kl. 16:28:

Dear Sandra, at the explanations for each symbols, you can find for each one, how many chain stitchs they represent. Happy Crafting!

Hanne Vokstrup Bartholomæussen 30.10.2019 - 19:11:

Hej i diagram A1 hvad betyder række 1 hvordan hækle den

DROPS Design 31.10.2019 kl. 09:41:

Hej Hanne, A.1 starter med fastmasker, næste række er hver 2. fastmaske og hver 2. picot (som består af 3 lm, 1 st i første lm). Her ser du hvordan du laver picot

How to crochet a picot edge from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

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