Spring Fairy by DROPS Design

Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.

  • Spring Fairy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-1 - Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Spring Fairy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-1 - Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Spring Fairy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-1 - Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Spring Fairy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-1 - Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
  • Spring Fairy / DROPS Baby & Children 38-1 - Crocheted dress for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an open-fan pattern. Sizes 0 – 4 years.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-080-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: 0/6 - 6/12 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Sizes in cm: 52/68 - 68/80 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Sizes in feet: Sizes in feet: 1ft8/2ft3 - 2ft3/2ft7 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft - 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-48-52 (56-60) cm = 17 1/4"-19"-20 1/2" (22"-23 5/8")
Full length: 35-40-44 (49-55) cm = 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4"-21 5/8")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200 (200-250) g color 17, white

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 8 textured rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Flower (white) NO 600: 3 items in all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.65 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.65 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.95$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFO:
At the beginning of each round/row of single crochets, replace the first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. When working in the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in this chain stitch. When working back and forth, finish the row with 1 single crochet in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the previous row of double crochets.
At the beginning of each round/row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. When working in the round, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. When working back and forth, finish the row with 1 double crochet in the chain stitch at the beginning of the previous row of single crochets.

TEXTURED ROWS:
* 1 row/round of single crochets, 1 row/round of double crochets *, repeat from *-* (i.e. 1 row/round of single crochets + 1 row/round of double crochets = 1 textured row).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 single/double crochet by working 2 single/double crochets in the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 136 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 57) = 2.4. In this example, increase in alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch (approx.).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth until the split mid-back is finished, then continue in the round.

YOKE:
Work 94-99-104 (104-115) chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn with) using hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and Safran. The first row is worked as follows: 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, * 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches, skip 1 chain stitch *, repeat from *-* until there are 0-1-2 (2-1) chain stitches left and finish with 1 single crochet in each of the remaining 0-1-2 (2-1) chain stitches = 70-74-78 (78-86) single crochets on the row.
Now insert 4 marker threads for raglan as follows (starting mid-back – DO NOT work the stitches while inserting the marker threads): Skip 10-11-12 (12-14) stitches (= right back piece when piece is worn), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 13 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 20-22-24 (24-28) stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, skip 13 stitches (= sleeve) insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (there are 10-11-12 (12-14) stitches left on the left back piece after the last marker).
READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Read CROCHET INFO and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but in each stitch with a marker thread work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets = 82-86-90 (90-98) double crochets on the row.
Continue with TEXTURED ROWS – read description above (working back and forth with 1 single/double crochet in each stitch from the previous row, but on each row of single crochets from the wrong side work 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row in the raglan-line).
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side (i.e. on a row of double crochets) increase to raglan as follows: Work 2 double crochets + 2 chain stitches + 2 double crochets around each chain-space in each raglan-line (= 16 double crochets increased on the row). Repeat this increase on each row from the right side a total of 4-5-5 (6-6) times = 146-166-170 (186-194) stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After the last increase to raglan work 1 row of single crochets from the wrong side as before (with 2 chain stitches over the 2 chain stitches from the previous row).

The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 20-23-24 (26-28) single crochets (= right back piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41-41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10-10) LOOSE chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 40-46-48 (52-56) single crochets (= front piece), skip the next 33-37-37 (41-41) single crochets (= sleeve), work 8-6-10 (10-10) LOOSE chain stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the last 20-23-24 (26-28) single crochets (= left back piece).
The yoke is finished. Continue in the round.

BODY:
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Start mid-back on the right side and work a round of single crochets (1 single crochet in each double crochet from the previous row and 1 single crochet in each chain stitch under the sleeves – remember CROCHET INFO) = 96-104-116 (124-132) stitches. Now work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each single crochet but increase 6-4-4 (8-12) double crochets evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 and -2 = 102-108-120 (132-144) stitches.
ROUND 2: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3: * 1 double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 34-36-40 (44-48) double crochets on the round, with 2 chain stitches between each one.
ROUND 4: Work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space = 136-144-160 (176-192) single crochets.
ROUND 5: Work single crochets and increase 57-61-57 (53-49) single crochets evenly spaced = 193-205-217 (229-241) single crochets.
Continue in the round with pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. work A.1A over the first stitch, then 16-17-18 (19-20) repeats of A.1B.
When rounds 1-5 have been worked once, repeat rounds 2-5 onwards until the piece measures approx. 23-28-32 (37-43) cm = 9"-11"-12 1/2" (14 1/2"-17") from the shoulder – adjust so you finish after a complete repeat in height. Continue as follows:

Repeat rounds 2-5 in A.2A and A.2B in the same way until you have worked 3 repeats of A.2 in height (or to desired length). Cut and fasten the strand. The dress measures approx. 35-40-44 (49-55) cm = 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4" (19 1/4"-21 5/8") from the shoulder.

SHAPING THE NECK:
For a better fit, work a small elevation at the back of the neck as follows. Insert 1 marker thread in each “corner” of the neck, i.e. at the beginning of each raglan-line, and 1 marker mid-front.
Using hook size 3.5 MM = US E/4 and Safran and starting mid-back, work 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with the marker thread, work 1 half-double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half-double crochet in the next stitch, continue with 1 single crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the next stitch with the marker thread, work 1 half-double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the stitch with the marker thread and 1 half-double crochet in the next stitch and continue with 1 single crochet in each stitch until there are 4-5-5 (5-5) stitches left before the marker mid-front. Turn and work 1 single crochet in each stitch back to mid-back, but at each marker thread work 3 single crochets together, i.e. work 1 single crochet in the half-double crochet, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the stitch with the marker thread, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 single crochet in the next half-double crochet, and pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook (= 2 single crochets decreased). Cut the strand and repeat on the other side, from mid-back to mid-front and back again.

BUTTON BANDS:
Work along the left side of the split mid-back as follows: 1 single crochet around each single-crochet row and 2 single crochets around each double-crochet row. Work a total of 4 rows of single crochets back and forth. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work buttonholes along the right side of the split as follows (starting from the right side at the neck): 3 single crochets (1 single crochet in the single-crochet row and 2 single crochets in the double-crochet row), 4 chain stitches (= 1 buttonhole), skip 1 cm = 3/8", continue with single crochets to the middle of the row (approx.), work 4 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8", work single crochets until there is 1 cm = 3/8" left on the band, 4 chain stitches and 1 single crochet in the last stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

PICOT-EDGE AROUND THE NECK:
Work around the neck as follows: 1 single crochet in the first stitch, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked, skip 2 stitches, 1 single crochet in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* to end of row. Cut and fasten the strand.

FAN-EDGE AROUND THE SLEEVES:
Work around each sleeve as follows: 1 single crochet in each of the first 8-6-10 (10-10) stitches mid-under the sleeve and 1 single crochet in each of the 33-37-37 (41-41) single crochets around the sleeve = 41-43-47 (51-51) stitches. Continue as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 double crochet in each single crochet, but increase 1-5-1 (0-0) double crochets evenly spaced = 42-48-48 (51-51) stitches.
ROUND 2: 1 single crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3: * 1 double crochet in the first/next stitch, 2 chain stitches, skip 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* to end of round = 14-16-16 (17-17) double crochets with 2 chain stitches between each one.
ROUND 4: 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 3 single crochets around each chain-space, but 7-3-3 (7-7) times on the round, work just 2 single crochets around the chain-space = 49-61-61 (61-61) single crochets.
Then work pattern in the round according to diagrams A.1A and A.1B in the same way as on the body = 4-5-5 (5-5) fans on the round. When rounds 1-5 have been completed once, cut and fasten the strand. Repeat around the other sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = this round is described in the text
symbols = the round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet in top of picot
symbols = single crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = 1 picot: 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
symbols = 1 picot: 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked
symbols = double crochet around chain-space
symbols = double crochet in stitch from previous round
symbols = round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch
symbols = single crochet worked in this double crochet
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby & Children 38-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Cecilis 17.08.2021 - 10:31:

När jag avslutat diagram A1 och ska börja på A2 borde varv 5 i A1 motsvara varv 1 i A2 men det gör det inte. Fattas det en fm i början eller ska mönstret förskjutas på något sätt?

user icon DROPS Design 18.08.2021 kl. 14:34:

Hei Cecilis. Litt usikker om jeg skjønner spørsmålet ditt, men du avslutter 5. omgang i A.1B slik du har gjort tidligere (avsluttes med 1 kjedemaske i luftmasken på begynnelsen av omgangen, 5.rad i A.1A). Når du nå skal hekle etter A.2 A og B, starter du med 1 luftmaske (A.2A) og fortsetter med A.2B. mvh DROPS deisgn

country flag Susan England 29.06.2021 - 19:23:

Sorry for not giving enough information I am doing A1. _A1B and I cannot understand row 5 of this graph. Do I double crochet into each stitch?

user icon DROPS Design 30.06.2021 kl. 07:32:

Dear Mrs England, work row 5 as follows: 1 chain (A.1A), 1 dc in the dc below (the one worked around the ch-space on row 4), 1 picot, skip 1 treble, 1 dc in next treble, 1 picot, skip 2 trebles, 1 dc in next treble, 1 picot, skip 1 treble, 1 dc in next treble, 1 picot (= A.1B), 1 dc around next ch-space, 1 picot, skip 1 treble, 1 dc in next treble, 1 picot, skip 2 trebles, 1 dc ain next treble, 1 picot, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next treble, 1 picot (= next A.1B), end round with 1 sl st in the first chain (A.1A) at the beg of the round. Hope this will help, happy crocheting!

country flag Susan England 28.06.2021 - 17:46:

I am unclear how to proceed with row A5 row do I do a double crochet in every 2 or 3 round the last row (A4)?

user icon DROPS Design 29.06.2021 kl. 08:54:

Dear Mrs England, could you please give us more info here? This pattern is using 2 diagrams called A.1A-A.1B and A.2A-A.2B but no A.4 nor A.5. Maybe you are working on another pattern? Thanks for your comprehension!

country flag Manoa 15.06.2021 - 22:46:

C'est très clair, merci de ces explications !

country flag Manoa 14.06.2021 - 22:23:

Bonjour, Je débute le diagramme A1B, et bloque sur la troisième ligne : deux mailles serrées dans le haut du picot puis une maille serrée. Je suis perdue et ne comprends pas à quel endroit réaliser la maille serrée avant de reprendre les mailles serrées dans le haut du picot... Pourriez-vous m'aider, svp ? Merci beaucoup, bonne journée.

user icon DROPS Design 15.06.2021 kl. 08:16:

Bonjour Manoa, A.1B va se crocheter ainsi au 2ème rang (= 3ème ligne): (en commençant par les 3 mailles en l'air de A.1A): *3 mailles en l'air, sautez 1 picot + 1 ms du rang précédent, 1 ms dans le haut du picot du rang précédent (= dans la 2ème des 3 ml), 5 ml, sautez 1 ms, 1 ms dans le haut du picot suivant, 5 ml, sautez 1 ms+ 1 picot, 1 ms dans la ms suivante*, répétez de *-* (= tous les arceaux font 5 ml). Bon crochet!

country flag Manoa 06.06.2021 - 23:05:

Bonjour, J'ai fait 4 augmentations en rangs texturés, et je pense avoir scrupuleusement respectées consignes, mais j'obtiens un carré, avec un angle presque droit à chacun des 4 "coins d'augmentation raglan : pourriez-vous me préciser si c'est normal, svp ? Merci beaucoup. Bonne journée.

user icon DROPS Design 07.06.2021 kl. 08:02:

Bonjour Manoa, tout à fait, ces 4 angles correspondent chacun à une des lignes du raglan - cette vidéo pourra vous aider à visualiser. Bon crochet!

country flag Masson Laurence 09.05.2021 - 22:50:

Je vais essayer, alors. Merci beaucoup !

country flag Manoa 08.05.2021 - 21:22:

Bonjour, ce modèle me plaît beaucoup. Est-il possible de le réaliser avec un niveau basique en crochet, svp ? Merci beaucoup. Bonne journée.

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2021 kl. 22:10:

Bonjour Manoa, ma copine qui est debutante a fait cette robe pour la bapteme :) Chacun de nos modèles a des tutoriels vidéo spécifiques pour vous aider. Si vous avez des questions au cours de travail, n'hesitez pas a nous demander. Bonne chance!

country flag Mona 30.04.2021 - 13:26:

Ik probeer het telpatroon te ontcijferen samen met de geschreven tekst, maar ik zie totaal geen gelijkenissen. Ik snap niet goed hoe dit telpatroon moet ontleed worden. Bij A.1A en A.1B staat in het midden een lijn tussen, waarom? En dan heb je nog A.2A en A.2B. volgen deze op de A1 en A1B? Ik zie dit echt nergens duidelijk in de tekst staan en geraak er niet mee weg. Dit is zo een ingewikkeld patroon!!

user icon DROPS Design 04.05.2021 kl. 20:23:

Dag Mona,

De telpatronen staan niet in de tekst beschreven. Als je bij de paragraaf over het lijf bent haak je eerst toer 1 tot en met toer 5 zoals beschreven in de tekst. Daarna Brei je telpatroon A.1 Je breit eerst A.1a. Daarna herhaal je steeds A.1b de streep laat zien waar de herhaling begint/eindigt, dus wat links van de streep van A.1 b staat is het zelfde als A.1b. Wanneer je A.1 b in de hoogte hebt gehaakt (je leest het telpatroon van onder naar boven) dan haak je A.2 in de hoogte zoals aangegeven in de tekst.

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