DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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  5. DROPS
  6. 178
  7. 25

Almost Spring

Knitted socks with lace pattern and wave pattern in DROPS

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DROPS 178-25

#almostspringsocks

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-375
Yarn group A
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 10/12
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/44

Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾"-9½"-10½"
Sock height: 20 - 21 - 22 cm / 8"-8¼"-8¾"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g in all sizes color 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue the decreases in this way by working until there is 1 less stitch left each time before slipping a stitch, until there are 14-14-16 stitches left on the needle.
----------------------------------------------------------

SOCKS:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 76-76-76 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Fabel. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above. Then work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height there are 68-68-68 stitches on the round. Work A.2 over all stitches, on the last round of A.2 decrease 2-2-2 stitches evenly along the round = 66-66-66 stitches. Work A.3 over all stitches, on the last round of A.3 decrease 6-4-2 stitches evenly along the round = 60-62-64 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue by working A.2 over all stitches, on the last row of A.2 decrease 6-4-2 stitches evenly along the round = 54-58-62 stitches. Now keep the first 12-13-14 stitches on the needle, place the next 30-32-34 stitches on a thread (= top of foot) and keep the last 12-13-14 stitches on the needle = 24-26-28 stitches for the heel. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm / 2"-2¼"-2½". Insert 1 marker on the last row. Continue by working HEEL DECREASES – see description above! After the heel decreases, continue by working in the round as follows:
Work the stitches from the heel, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of the heel. Place the 30-32-34 stitches from the thread back on the needle and work 0-1-2 stitches stockinette stitch, A.4 over the next 30 stitches, 0-1-2 stitches stockinette stitch over these stitches. Knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side of the heel = 70-74-82 stitches. Continue with A.4 on top of the foot and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in each side as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches before the 30-32-34 stitches on top of the foot twisted together and knit the first 2 stitches after the 30-32-34 stitches on top of the foot together. Decrease in this way every 2nd round in total 9-9-11 times = 52-56-60 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm / 7"-7½"-8¼" measured from the marker on the heel (= 4-5-6 cm / 1½"-2"-2⅜" left before binding off). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 26-28-30 stitches both on top and underneath the foot. Continue by working stockinette stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease for the toe on each side of both markers. Decrease as follows before the marker: knit 2 stitches twisted together (knit in back loop) and knit 1 stitch. Decrease as follows after the marker: knit 1 stitch and knit 2 stitches together (= 4 stitches less each decrease). Repeat the decreases in each side every 2nd round in total 4-7-9 times and then every round in total 6-3-2 times = 12-16-16 stitches left on the round. On the next round knit all the stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten the strand well. Work 1 more sock.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #almostspringsocks or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-25

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Peltier Lucette wrote:

Bonjour Concernant le rang 3 du A3, vous indiquez à Madame Francoeur qu’a la fin du rang 3, il reste 1 «maille …. En effet. On en fait quoi s’l vous plait ? Merci de votre aide précieuse

09.09.2024 - 14:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Peltier, quand il reste 1 maille à la fin du 2ème rang de A.3, commencez le 3ème rang de A.3 ainsi: 1 jeté (= nouvelle dernière maille du tour), glissez, comme pour la tricoter à l'envers, la dernière maille du tour, tricotez 2 m ens à l'endroit (= le s2 premières mailles de A.3), passez la m glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée (= c'est maintenant la première maille de A.3), faites 1 jeté, tricotez 3 mailles endroit, et continuez ainsi, la dernière maille de chaque A.3 se tricote avec les 2 premières mailles du A.3 suivant. Bon tricot!

10.09.2024 - 08:55

country flag PELTIER wrote:

Bonjour Au diagramme A3 Est ce bien : 1m end, 2m ensemble, 1 jeté, 1m endroit, 1 jete, 1m glissée, 2 mailles ensemble ? Merci

05.09.2024 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Peltier, oui pour le début, mais la dernière diminution n'est pas 2 mailles ensemble mais( glisser 1 maille, 1 maille endroit, passer la maille glissée par-dessus la maille tricotée), cf 5ème symbole. Bon tricot!

06.09.2024 - 08:37

country flag MirVeir wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la pointe de la Chaussette il est écrit cela : Diminuer ainsi après le marqueur: 1 maille endroit et 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit (= 4 mailles en moins à chaque tour de diminutions). Est ce que cela ne diminue pas de 2 mailles à chaque tour et non 4? Merci pour votre réponse.

20.02.2024 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mir Veir, si on ne diminuait qu'après le marqueur oui, mais on va aussi diminuer avant le marqueur, autrement dit tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 mailles avant le marqueur, tricotez 2 m ens torse à l'end, 2 m end (le marqueur est entre ces 2 mailles), 2 m ens à l'end, vous diminuez ainsi 2 mailles, répétez à l'autre marqueur de l'autre côté = vous avez diminué 4 mailles. Bon tricot!

21.02.2024 - 08:16

country flag Celine Francoeur wrote:

Comment tricoter le tour 3 du diagramme A3

26.02.2023 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Francoeur, commencez ce tour avec la dernière maille du tour précédent, lorsqu'il reste 1 maille du tour précédent, *faites 1 jeté (= dernière maile du tour désormais), glissez cette maille + la maille suivante (la 1ère de A.3), tricotez la m suivante, passez les 2 m glissées par-dessus la m tricotée (= 1ère m de A.3), 1 jeté, tricotez 3 m end; il reste 1 m de A.3, répétez à partir de *. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 10:31

country flag Lone Meldgaard wrote:

62 masker passer ikke med rapport/A4 so indeholder 10 masker...

16.01.2021 - 19:09

country flag Margoth wrote:

Jag försöker skriva ut mönster m bild men hejdas efter några försök. detta händer mej ALLTID då jag ska ha ut flera mönster. inte kul. vag gör jag för fel

31.12.2020 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Margoth, när du skriver ut måste du använda "skriv ut - knappen", den ligger direkt efter garnåtgången. Lycka till !

07.01.2021 - 15:21

country flag Minna wrote:

Lankaa vain 50 g. riittääkö keskikoon sukkiin vai teenkö esim kantapäät muulla langalla?

17.03.2019 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, 50 grammaa ei riitä kahteen sukkaan. Voisit yrittää tehdä varret ja kantapäät toisella langalla.

18.03.2019 - 17:41

country flag Minn wrote:

Lankaa vain 50 g. riittääkö keskikoon sukkiin vai teenkö esim kantapäät muulla värillä?

17.03.2019 - 15:49

country flag Mary wrote:

The diagrams are worked from the bottom up, right?

23.06.2018 - 06:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, that's right, start on the bottom corner on the right side and read every round from the right towards the left. Happy knitting!

25.06.2018 - 09:39

Jane wrote:

Can you please help me with a pattern??? 178-25.

29.01.2018 - 15:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, sure - we try to. Could you specify, what exactly is the problem with pattern, please?

29.01.2018 - 17:00

Almost Spring


Knitted socks with lace pattern and wave pattern in DROPS

DROPS 178-25
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-375
Yarn group A
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 10/12
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/44

Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾"-9½"-10½"
Sock height: 20 - 21 - 22 cm / 8"-8¼"-8¾"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100 g in all sizes color 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM / US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4" in width and 10 cm / 4" in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

HEEL DECREASES:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 5-6-6 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
Continue the decreases in this way by working until there is 1 less stitch left each time before slipping a stitch, until there are 14-14-16 stitches left on the needle.
----------------------------------------------------------

SOCKS:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on 76-76-76 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and Fabel. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above. Then work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed 1 time in height there are 68-68-68 stitches on the round. Work A.2 over all stitches, on the last round of A.2 decrease 2-2-2 stitches evenly along the round = 66-66-66 stitches. Work A.3 over all stitches, on the last round of A.3 decrease 6-4-2 stitches evenly along the round = 60-62-64 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue by working A.2 over all stitches, on the last row of A.2 decrease 6-4-2 stitches evenly along the round = 54-58-62 stitches. Now keep the first 12-13-14 stitches on the needle, place the next 30-32-34 stitches on a thread (= top of foot) and keep the last 12-13-14 stitches on the needle = 24-26-28 stitches for the heel. Work stockinette stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm / 2"-2¼"-2½". Insert 1 marker on the last row. Continue by working HEEL DECREASES – see description above! After the heel decreases, continue by working in the round as follows:
Work the stitches from the heel, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of the heel. Place the 30-32-34 stitches from the thread back on the needle and work 0-1-2 stitches stockinette stitch, A.4 over the next 30 stitches, 0-1-2 stitches stockinette stitch over these stitches. Knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side of the heel = 70-74-82 stitches. Continue with A.4 on top of the foot and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. AT THE SAME TIME decrease in each side as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches before the 30-32-34 stitches on top of the foot twisted together and knit the first 2 stitches after the 30-32-34 stitches on top of the foot together. Decrease in this way every 2nd round in total 9-9-11 times = 52-56-60 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm / 7"-7½"-8¼" measured from the marker on the heel (= 4-5-6 cm / 1½"-2"-2⅜" left before binding off). Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 26-28-30 stitches both on top and underneath the foot. Continue by working stockinette stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease for the toe on each side of both markers. Decrease as follows before the marker: knit 2 stitches twisted together (knit in back loop) and knit 1 stitch. Decrease as follows after the marker: knit 1 stitch and knit 2 stitches together (= 4 stitches less each decrease). Repeat the decreases in each side every 2nd round in total 4-7-9 times and then every round in total 6-3-2 times = 12-16-16 stitches left on the round. On the next round knit all the stitches together 2 and 2. Cut the strand and pull it through the remaining stitches, pull tight and fasten the strand well. Work 1 more sock.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit
symbol = purl
symbol = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbol = slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches

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