DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 178-13
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-374
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Sock height: approx. 22 - 22 - 22 cm / 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100 g color 911, picnic
50-50-50 g color 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 – or size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Work all diagrams in stockinette stitch.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= right side): Knit until 9 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
Row 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 9 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Row 3 (= right side): Knit until 8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
Row 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Continue decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 15 stitches on needle.
--------------------------------------------------------

SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 72 stitches in all sizes on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with picnic. Knit 1 round, continue with rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Continue with A.1 - AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 6-0-0 stitches evenly = 66-72-72 stitches, and on last round decrease 0-2-2 stitches evenly = 66-70-70 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows: A.2 (= 3 stitches), A.3 (= 25-29-29 stitches), A.2 (= 3 stitches) and A.4 (= 35 stitches) - decrease as shown in A.4. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 62-66-66 stitches on needle (When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.3 upwards). Now slip the first 31-35-35 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= stitches over A.2 + A.3 + A.2) = 31 stitches remain on needle for heel. Work A.5 over heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm / 2''-2 1/4''-2½'', insert 1 marker on last row, then work HEEL DECREASE – see explanation above. After heel decrease, work in stockinette stitch in the round: First work A.5 over the 15 heel stitches, pick up 12-13-14 stitches in A.5 on side of heel, work A.2 and A.3 as before over stitches on stitch holder and pick up 12-13-14 stitches in A.5 on the other side of heel = 70-76-78 stitches. Then decrease on each side of the 31-35-35 stitches on top of foot as follows: Knit the 2 stitches before the 31-35-35 stitches on top of foot together and knit the 2 stitches after the 31-35-35 stitches on top of foot twisted together. Decrease every other round 6 times in total = 58-64-66 stitches. Continue pattern until piece measures 18-19-22 cm / 7"-7½"-8 3/4'' from marker on heel (= approx. 4-5-5 cm / 1½"-2"-2'' remain). Then work as follows: A.2 as before over the stitches in each side, A.5 over the 25-29-29 stitches on top of foot and the 27-29-31 stitches under foot - AT THE SAME TIME decrease for toe on each side of A.2 in each side as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.2, knit 2 together, work A.2, then knit 2 twisted together. Repeat decrease every other round 3-6-6 more times and then every round 5-3-3 times = 22-24-26 stitches remain on round. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 with picnic = 11-12-13 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = picnic
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Flower Music

Paulinette, United States

Flower Music

Suzie, Russian Federation

Flower Music Socks

CrazyKnitter22, United Kingdom

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 178-13

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Britt wrote:

Herzlichen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! dann gehts jetzt los :))

14.03.2023 - 15:06

country flag Britt wrote:

Danke für das wunderschöne Muster! aber: Welche von beiden Farben wurde als Hauptfarbe gestrickt, bzw. ist weiß im Vordergrund oder picnic?

13.03.2023 - 11:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Britt, bei den Socken wird man das Muster mit natur und die Grundfarben mit pickinick stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.03.2023 - 13:26

country flag Jannike wrote:

Jag har löst det nu. Jag skall först fälla 2 m på sista varvet av A1.... det var lite otydligt eller jag var för snabb. Allt är gott igen!

04.08.2022 - 13:14

country flag Jannike wrote:

Hej. Jag får problem när jag vill sticka i storlek 41-43 och har 70 maksor kvar innan mönster A1=12 m. Det går inte upp?

04.08.2022 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jannike, når du strikke A.1 har du 72 masker, det er først efter A.1 du tager ind til 70 masker :)

05.08.2022 - 14:12

country flag Hanne Cramon wrote:

Findes dette smukke diagram også i en bluse/sweaterversion? Vh Hanne

07.08.2021 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, nej desværre, men prøv at søge i vores Nordiske mønstre :)

11.08.2021 - 16:03

country flag Suse wrote:

Wunderschöne Socken, bin bis jetzt gut klar gekommen. Nun bin ich an der Ferse☹️ Stricke ich die 31 Maschen auf zwei oder vier Nadeln? Ich bekomme das nicht hin. Bitte vielleicht noch etwas detaillierter für mich erklären??! Danke Suse

15.04.2021 - 14:16

country flag Naomi wrote:

Eenmaal de hiel gebreid (13 steken aan beiden kanten opgenomen) staat in het patroon: "Minder om de naald 6 keer in totaal= 64 steken". Betekent dit 1 toer minderen en daarna 1 toer niet?

26.03.2021 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Naomi,

Inderdaad, met om de naald wordt bedoeld de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet.

26.03.2021 - 15:38

country flag Maria wrote:

Hej, jag kan bara se diagram A5 och A4 i mönstret ovan, är det något fel på mönstret?

09.01.2021 - 20:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Det er 5 diagram til denne sokken. A.1 ser du øverst på sokken som går rundt hele ankelen. Diagram A.2 er stripene på sidene av sokken og A.3 ser du på fronten av sokken. Diagram A.4 ser du på baksiden av sokken og diagram A.5 over hælen av sokken. mvh DROPS design

18.01.2021 - 12:52

country flag Wilma Jansen wrote:

Hallo, Brei ik de hiel minderingen met 1 kleur? Of......

24.08.2020 - 23:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Wilma,

Nee, als je gaat minderen voor de hiel brei je tegelijkertijd verder in patroon A.5

26.08.2020 - 14:26

country flag Ylva Davidsson wrote:

Det måste vara fel på mönstret. Det är väl inte maskorna över A2 A3 o A2 som ska vara kvar på stickan ? Blomman ska ju vara fram Tycker mönstret är otydligt o det känns som bitar saknas. Mvh ylva

22.06.2020 - 15:40