Josephine by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-792
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
700-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color no 39, dark old rose

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Inc as follows before A.1a: Work until 1 sts remain before A.1a, 1 YO, K 1.
Inc as follows after A.1a: K 1, 1 YO.
On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st K by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (sleeve):
Dec as follows before A.1b: Work until 3 sts remain before A.1b, K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after A.1b: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

DECREASE TIP (body):
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 6 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4.
Dec as follows after marker: K 4, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge, you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round, top down. Rounds start mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 124-124-132-140-148-148 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. K 1 round. Then work 6 rounds rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. On first round work as follows: K the first 16-16-18-18-20-20 and inc 1-2-2-2-2-2 sts evenly (= half back piece), work A.1a (= 6 sts on first round), K the next 18-18-18-22-22-22 and inc 2-2-2-2-4-4 sts evenly (= right sleeve), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the next 32-32-36-36-40-40 and inc 2-4-4-4-4-4 sts evenly (= front piece), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the next 18-18-18-22-22-22 and inc 2-2-2-2-4-4 sts evenly (= left sleeve), work A.1a over the next 6 sts, K the remaining 16-16-18-18-20-20 and inc 1-2-2-2-2-2 sts evenly (= half back piece) = 132-136-144-152-164-164 sts (+ 1 st that will be inc in each report of A.1a on round = 4 sts on round). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE On next round work pattern and inc for raglan as follows: READ WHOLE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.

Continue in stockinette st and A.1a in every transition between body and sleeves. When A.1a has been worked vertically, repeat A.1b over A.1a - NOTE: On last repeat of A.1b in height on yoke do not inc with YO (i.e. there are 6 sts in every repetition of A.1b when inc for raglan is done). AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round in A.1a start inc for RAGLAN - see explanation above, on each side of A.1a/A.1b. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves.
RAGLAN BODY:
Inc like this on every round 0-0-0-7-9-12 times, every other round 19-22-23-23-24-26 times and on every 4th round 1-1-1-0-0-0 times (= 20-23-24-30-33-38 times in total).
RAGLAN SLEEVES:
Inc like this every other round 13-18-23-22-20-18 times and every 4th round 4-3-1-2-4-7 times (= 17-21-24-24-24-25 times in total).

When all inc are done there are 280-312-336-368-392-416 sts on round. Work next round as follows: Work 40-44-47-53-58-63 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the next 80-88-94-106-116-126 sts (= front piece), slip the next 60-68-74-78-80-82 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts under sleeve, work the last 40-44-47-53-58-63 sts (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 176-192-208-232-256-280 sts for body. Continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 sts that were cast on under sleeves. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP (body)! Dec like this every 6th round 2 times in total = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', dec 25-30-35-37-39-41 sts evenly = 143-154-165-187-209-231 sts. NOTE: This is done to compensate for the 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on 1st round in pattern A.2a. Work 1 round more that finishes when 2 sts remain on round. This is now beg of round. This is done to get a symmetrical pattern. Now work pattern as follows: * A.2a (= 3 sts on 1st round), K 8 * repeat from *-* 12-13-14-16-18-20 more times on round (= 13-14-15-17-19-21 repetitions) = 169-182-195-221-247-273 sts. Continue with pattern in the round like this. When entire A.2a has been worked vertically, there is 195-210-225-255-285-315 sts on round. Then work A.2b over A.2a until finished measurements AT THE SAME TIME inc in the sections with P and the sections in stockinette st as follows:
INC IN SECTIONS IN STOCKINETTE ST:
When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', inc 2 sts in every repetition in stockinette st by making a YO inside 1 st K in each side of repetition – READ INCREASE TIP-1 (= 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on round). Inc like this every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 3 times in total.
INC IN SECTIONS WITH P:
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', inc 1 P st in every section with P - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 26-28-30-34-38-42 sts inc on round). Inc like this every 8 cm / 3 1/8'' 3 times in total.

When all inc are done there are 351-378-405-459-513-567 sts on round. Continue until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm / 32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''-38 ¼'' measured from shoulder – adjust so that last round is 2nd round in A.2b. Bind off with K over K and P over P - READ BIND-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and pick up 1 st in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new sts cast on under sleeve = 68-76-84-88-92-96 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now continue in stockinette st and A.1a mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts in A.1a on each side of marker). When A.1a has been worked vertically, continue with A.1b over A.1a. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of A.1b under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 12-15-18-19-20-21 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts. When sleeve measures 38-37-36-35-34-33 cm / 15"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-13" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because wider shoulders) - adjust so that next round is 2nd round in A.2b, inc 8-6-8-6-8-6 sts evenly over sts in stocking st = 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Now work rib (K 2/P 2) – adjust to work K over K and P over P over the 6 sts over A.2b. When rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', bind off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round K the YO to make hole.
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts On next round P YO twisted to avoid holes.
symbols = K 2 sts in 1 st I.e. work in front and back loop of st.
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
symbols = this st has been dec
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (90)

country flag Gabrielle Macklin wrote:

What does it mean to "work A1.b over the same stiches"? Just to swtich from A1.a to A1.b in the further rounds?

21.06.2022 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Macklin, after you have worked A.1a in height, work A.1b and repeat only the 4 rows in A.1b in height. Happy knitting!

21.06.2022 kl. 09:33

country flag AlexandraK wrote:

Hallo, ich bin es wieder :) Die Zunahmen für die Ärmel in der Passe: "In jeder 2. Rd 13-18-23-22-20-18 x und dann in jeder 4. Rd 4-3-1-2-4-7 x (= insgesamt 17-21-24-24-24-25 x)" - bedeutet das für jeden einzelnen Ärmel oder werden die Zunahmen auf beide Ärmel verteilt? Die Zunahmen beim Rumpf: sollen sie direkt mit den Raglanzunahmen kombiniert werden, also direkt daneben, oder kann man sie verteilen? Liebe Grüße

09.05.2022 - 09:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe AlexandraK, die Zunahmen am Rumpfteil und bei den Ärmeln werden an einem unterschiedlichen Rythmus gestrictk, dh es werden entweder 8 Maschen (Vorder- + Rückenteil + Ärmel) zugenommen oder nur 4 Maschen (z.B. Vorder- + Rückenteil bei jeder Runde in die 3 grösseste Größen oder für alle wenn die Zunahmen bei den Ärmeln in jede 4. Runde gestrickt werden soll). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.05.2022 kl. 12:51

country flag AlexandraK wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Ärmeln: auf den Bildern sehen sie aus wie glatt rechts gestrickt bis zu den Bündchen. In der Anleitung steht jedoch, dass die Zopfmuster A1a und A1b gestrickt werden sollen - ich kann dies auf den Bildern überhaupt nicht erkennen, oder irre ich mich in Bezug auf das Muster? Liebe Grüße, Alexandra

12.04.2022 - 10:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alexandra, A.1 wird unter dem Ärmel gestrickt, so man dieses Muster auf dem Foto nicht sieht. Wenn Sie die Ärmel nur glatt rechts stricken möchten können Sie auch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.04.2022 kl. 08:41

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Diagramm. Was bedeutet das schwarze Kästchen, diese Masche wurde abgenommen? Werden da Maschen zusammengestrickt oder nur abgehoben? LG

01.02.2022 - 14:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, ja genau, bei der vorrigen Runde stricken Sie: 3 M re, die erste gestr M über die anderen beiden ziehen, sodass diese M um die letzten beiden M der rechten Nadel herum liegt (= 1 M abgenommen). (= 6. Symbol), es sind nur noch 2 Maschen rechts zwischen den 2 Maschen links beidseitig. 2 Runde danach stricken Sie 1 Umschlag zwischen den beiden rechten Maschen = es sind wieder 3 Maschen rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.02.2022 kl. 16:28

country flag WESLEY JOYCE LUCAS wrote:

Hello! Knitting the XL size. It says to Inc every other round 20 times and then every 4th round 4 times on sleeves. Question is, is this done in sequential order? I.e. do I do 20 Inc rounds over 40 and THEN begin doing incs on every 4th row? Or am I doing this at the same time, where I Inc on rows 1, 3, and then 4? Any help is much appreciated! First time knitting Raglan (or a dress)! Thanks!

28.01.2022 - 20:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wesley, yes, it's done in sequential order, so you first work 40 rounds (and increase in 20) and then start increasing only on the 4th round (so you increase in 4 rounds out of 16). Happy knitting!

30.01.2022 kl. 21:56

country flag Nicol wrote:

Ik kom er niet uit bij patroon A2a. Deze heb ik nu volgens tekening 1x gebreid, 7 rijen boven elkaar. Ik begrijp dat ik dit voor maat L 14x moet herhalen, maar hoe zit dit met de steken?\r\nHet patroon begint met 3-5-7 steken. Breidden de av steken bij rij 5 zich uit van 2 naar3 steken aan het begin en eind van patroon A2a?

22.01.2022 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nicol,

Vanaf rij 6 heb je aan beide kanten 2 averechte steken (dus niet 3 averechte steken aan beide kanten) en is het patroon in totaal 7 steken breed. A.2a brei je maar één keer in de hoogte, daarna herhaal je A.2b steeds in de hoogte.

24.01.2022 kl. 20:15

country flag Tina wrote:

Hi, it's me again. Thank you so much for your help. I have one more question regarding this project. Can I machine wash this dress for blocking please, since Karisma is machine washable. The spin cycle will make it less wet for blocking which I think is easier?

20.01.2022 - 09:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, sure always follow the instructions of the label and read more about washing yarns including superwashed yarns here. Happy knitting!

20.01.2022 kl. 09:43

country flag Tina wrote:

Hi, I've just completed this dress and tried it on. Karisma feels prickly and itchy when worn. Will it be better after washing? Washing instructions say not to use fabric softeners but it feels like it really need softening. Pls advice because I was looking to make another dress Highland Heather which also uses Karisma. But if it's not comfortable to wear, I won't make it.

16.01.2022 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, Karisma is 100% natural wool so it's normal that some people which are more sensitive to yarn may feel that it's a bit itchy. In these cases, we recommend using superwash yarns, such as Merino Extra Fine, which is of the same Yarn Group as Karisma but is more recommended for sensitive skin. We don't recommend using fabric softeners; you could use a yarn detergent.

16.01.2022 kl. 21:10

country flag Monika Behr wrote:

Please excuse my confusion but do you read charts A.1 and A.2 from the bottom or the top? If from the bottom, then does the black square (has been decreased) refer to the stitch that was passed over the other 2? If from the top, then I do not understand what the black square is.

04.01.2022 - 00:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Behr, read diagrams bottom up - Correct, the black square refers to the stitch decreased below (ex. on 3rd row in A.1a/1st row in A.1b). Happy knitting!

04.01.2022 kl. 07:31

country flag Tina wrote:

1) Increase for the Raglan - Size L increase for A.1a every other row as well as the 4th row. So do I increase on 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th row etc ... OR...Increase on 1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th row etc? 2)"On last repeat of A.1b in height on yoke do not inc with YO " - ON last repeat refers to the 24 increases for L size? So I skip the YO for the hole on 3rd row of A.1b diagram on my last A.1b when close to complete the 24 increases, is that what it means please? Thank you :))

01.12.2021 - 07:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tina, in size L (= 3rd size) you will increase on every other round a total of 23 times on both body and sleeves (= 1 round with increase, 1 round without increase) then on every 4th round (3 rounds after last increase, then 1 round with inc) 1 time (a total of 24 times) - increase 8 sts on every increase round. The increase should be worked on either side of each A.1b - when all increases are done, work the last A.1b on yoke (just before dividing piece without the yarn over to keep the number of sts correct). Happy knitting!

01.12.2021 kl. 07:45

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