Butterfly Heart Top by DROPS Design
Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and V-neck in ”Belle”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g color no 11, old pink
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – for edges in garter st.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Belle 53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen |
from 3.15 $ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | ||||||
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for correct size.
SHORT ROWS:
When turning in short rows, slip first st as if to K. Tighten thread and make sure to avoid big holes.
INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.
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TOP:
Work from the middle of V-neck and out in 3 triangles on front piece and 4 triangles on back piece, then work downwards.
FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth from neck and down. Cast on 8 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 15 sts on needle. Work next row as follows (from RS): Work YOs from previous row twisted, they should not make holes. Work 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1, insert 1st marker, A.1, insert 2nd marker, A.1 (= repeat A.1 3 times in total on row), finish with 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 123-123-123-123-129-129 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 11-11-11-11-12-12 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" from cast-on edge.
Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.2 over the first 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.4 over the last 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, after A.4 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Work A.4 to A.2 on next row, after A.2 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram).
When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½" from cast-on edge.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK PATTERN AS BEFORE WHILE AT THE SAME TIME WORKING SHORT ROWS IN EACH SIDE OF PIECE.
PATTERN:
Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 st in garter st, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stockinette st, work A.5 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.6 over the next 6 sts, 43-43-53-53-57-57 sts in stockinette st, A.7 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.8 over the next 6 sts, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stockinette st, finish with 1 st in garter st. Repeat A.5 to A.8 over the 6 sts on each side of each marker 2-3-2-3-4-5 times in total, then repeat the first 0-0-6-4-4-4 rows of A.5 to A.8 1 more times.
SHORT ROWS:
AT THE SAME TIME when 2-6-0-2-0-6 rows of A.5 to A.8 have been worked, work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above - in each side of piece as follows: Work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain on row (work A.5 to A.8 as before), turn and work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain, turn piece. Then work short rows in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE M:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE L-XL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-2 times in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less on every turn 3-2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE XXL-XXXL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-1 time in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less for every turn 4-4 times in each side of piece, then work 2 sts less on every turn 4-5 times in each side of piece.
ALL SIZES:
When the short rows have been worked, work last row from WS, so that next row beg from shoulder.
Then work over all sts from RS as follows: Work in garter st over the first 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly, work as before (i.e. A.5 to A.8 and stockinette st) until 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts remain, work in garter st over the last sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly (= 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece).
Work 3 rows in garter st over the outermost 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece, pattern and stockinette st over the remaining sts. On next row from WS work as follows: bind off with K over the first 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts for armhole, work 2 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st and pattern as before until 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts remain, 2 sts in garter st, bind off with K over the last 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts for armhole. Cut the yarn. 8-8-8-12-12-12 rows of A.5 to A.8 remain. Beg next row from RS.
Continue to work in garter st over the first and last 2 sts in each side of piece. When A.5 to A.8 have been worked, there are 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts before 1st marker, 79-91-99-107-123-135 sts between 1st and 2nd marker and 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts after 2nd marker = 125-141-151-161-187-203 sts in total on row.
Piece measures approx. 21-24-25-27-32-35 cm / 8 1/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-12½"-13 3/4" on the widest measured from cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. On next row from RS loosely bind off the first 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts with K, work 1 edge st in garter st, (marker), work A.9 over the first 6 sts after marker, stockinette st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.10 over the last 6 sts before second marker, (marker), 1 edge st in garter st, loosely bind off the last 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts = 81-93-101-109-125-137 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn. Work next row from WS over the remaining sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.10 as before, stockinette st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.9 as before, 1 edge st in garter st. When A.9 and A.10 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from marker, inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 1 edge st (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 12-10-12-14-12-13 times in total = 105-113-125-137-149-163 sts on needle. When piece measures 23-23-24-24-23-23 cm / 9"-9"-9½"-9½"-9"-9" from marker (piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾'' in total from shoulder), adjust so that next row is from RS, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work next row from RS as follows: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work A.11 (= 2 sts) until 2 sts remain, work first st in A.11, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. On row with holes (i.e. 7th row) work next to last st K. Bind off when A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' in total from shoulder.
BACK PIECE:
Piece is first worked in the round, then worked as front piece. Cast on 6 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle, switch to circular needle when needed. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* = 12 sts on row, K YOs twisted on next row, they should not make holes. Work A.1 4 times in total, insert 1 marker between each A.1 (= 4 markers). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 156-156-156-156-164-164 sts on needle. Continue as follows: A.12 over the first 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, work A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.13 over the last 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder for neck edge (= 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts), after A.13 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Then work back and forth on needle. Work A.13/A.3/A.12 on next row, after A.12 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). When A.12/A.3/A.13 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½" from cast-on edge. Now continue back piece as front piece.
NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Slip sts from stitch holder for neck edge on back piece back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Fasten ridges where sts were cast on for shoulder. Fasten off.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew shoulder seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Tighten tog the middle (i.e. cast-on edge) on both front and back piece.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
New yarn amout:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio 250-300-300-350-400-400 g color no 11, old pink
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= K from RS, P from WS |
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= P from RS, K from WS |
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= K 2 tog |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row to make hole |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next row, it should NOT make a hole |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next row to make hole |
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= slip 2 sts tog as if to K, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over |
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= cast on st - see pattern |
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= knitting direction |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-4) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (70)
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Jeg er ved at strikke model Belle og er kommet til ryggen, hvor der skal strikkes i 3 mønstre sammen.Der er i alt 156 masker på pinden. Strik 39 A12 og 39 A3 og 39 A13 og de sidste 39 masker sættes på en tråd til hals, samtidig med at der tages 11 masker op efter A13. Jeg forstår godt de 11 masker i hver side til skulder men ikke de 13 masker til hals. Jeg kan simpelthen ikke se for mig hvordan de kan komme til at danne hals.
DROPS Design
12.07.2021 kl. 15:00:
Hej Helle, du kan se det midterste billede hvordan det kommer til at se ud bagpå. God fornøjelse!Merci beaucoup. Juste une autre précision : on laisse les 26 mailles des rangs raccourcis en attente jusqu'à ce qu'on ait tricoté 2 fois A5-A8 ?
DROPS Design
21.05.2021 kl. 07:27:
Bonjour Mme Diette, non vous tricotez d'abord 2 rangs de A.5 à A.8 puis tricotez les rangs raccourcis en laissant 26 m de chaque côté, puis, à la fin du rang suivant, tricotez toutes les mailles jusqu'à la fin du rang, tournez et tricotez toutes les mailles jusqu'à la fin du rang, votre rang suivant commence à partir de l'épaule tricotez la suite sous TOUTES LES TAILLES (= 3 rangs avec 42 m point mousse de chaque côté et les autres mailles comme avant). Bon tricot!Pour la taille S et le devant : on continue à tricoter en rangs raccourcis jusqu'à ce que A5 à A8 aient été tricotés 2 fois en hauteur en tournant toujours au bout de 26 mailles? On arrête les rangs raccourcis à ce moment là et on tricote ensuite le dernier rang sur l'envers pour que le rang suivant commence à partir de l'épaule. Merci de votre réponse
DROPS Design
20.05.2021 kl. 08:22:
Bonjour Mme Diette, en S on ne doit tricoter que 2 rangs raccourcis = jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 26 mailles de chaque côté, après avoir tricoté 2 rangs de A.5 -A.8. Passez ensuite au paragraphe TOUTES LES TAILLES. Bon tricot!I'm knitting size M. I do the short rows while I do the A5 to A8, but when I'm finished the short rows I still have one more time to do A5 to A8. Is that correct? The setup is 26 less each side and that happens on the last two rows of A7 and A8 right? Love the pattern but am finding it complicated.
DROPS Design
13.07.2020 kl. 08:38:
Dear Brenda, work first until 26 sts remain on each side, then 6 sts more 2 times (in size M), ie work until 32 sts remain on each side then work until 38 sts remain on each side (= 6 short rows in total, 3 on each side, and 38 sts remain on each side), then work 1 row from RS over all sts (to the end of the row), turn and work next row from WS to the end of the row (on the other side, all sts are now worked) - at the same time, continue diagrams as before. Happy knitting!Thanks for answering my question. SO I do the short row on thrid row of the Charts A5-8... In size small It sounds like I do the charts A5-A8 twice.... But only do the short row on the first round of these charts. Is that correct. I ask becuase after this step the pattern reads for all sizes: "After the short rows have been worked, work last row from WS, so that next row beg from shoulder." What bind off do you recommend?
DROPS Design
26.06.2020 kl. 07:29:
Dear JJ, after the short rows you continue working as before + garter stitch over the first/last 42 sts and work 3 ridges over these stitches then cast off the first/last stitch - make just sure cast off stitches are not too tight. Happy knitting!I am making the size small tank top. When creating the short rows, are the short rows done on each round of A5-A8 or just the first time through the chart? Upon completion are there two short rows on each side or just one?
DROPS Design
25.06.2020 kl. 17:02:
Dear JJ, in size S you work only the short rows on each side: on 3rd row wiht A.5/A.8 work as before until 26 stts remain, turn and work until 26 sts remain. turn and work next row from RS as before to the end of row, turn and work next row as before tothe end of row. Happy knitting!Bonjour. Pour le dos qd on a tricoté A1 1× on a 156m. Puis vs ns demandez de continuer A12 39m, A3 39m, A13 39m . Il reste 39 m on les tricote comment ?
DROPS Design
15.06.2020 kl. 08:32:
Bonjour Mme Armand, les 39 dernières mailles sont glissées en attente pour la bordure d'encolure (comme pour le pull). On tricote ensuite 2 côtes mousse sur ces mailles - cf BORDURE D'ENCOLURE. Bon tricot!"Gentag A.5 til A.8 over de 6 m på hver side af hvert mærke totalt 2-3-2-3-4-5 gange, derefter repeteres de første 0-0-6-4-4-4 p af A.5 til A.8 1 gang til." Betyder det, at jeg skal strikke diagram 5-8 I alt to gange i højden (strikker s)? Og kun forkortede pinde 1 gang frem og 1 gang tilbage? På forhånd tak
DROPS Design
19.03.2020 kl. 13:31:
Hej Anne Sofie, Ja det stemmer som du skriver her :)Buonasera. Sto lavorando il dietro e ho finito gli schemi A12/A3/A13. È scritto di continuare come sul davanti ma non capisco da quale sezione esattamente. Potete aiutarmi? Grazie
DROPS Design
18.06.2019 kl. 18:18:
Buongiorno Deborah. Deve riprendere da dove c'è scritto: leggere tutta la sezione seguente prima di continuare. È il punto in cui ha lo stesso numero di maglie del davanti. Buon lavoro!Sto iniziando il dietro ma ho difficoltà ad avviare 6 m con i ferri a doppia punta perché mi scivolano i ferri, c è qualche tecnica che si può utilizzare? grazie.
DROPS Design
30.04.2019 kl. 14:30:
Buongiorno Monica, può avviare 6 maglie sullo stesso ferro a doppia punta e poi spostarle sugli altri. Buon lavoro!