DROPS / 170 / 3

Butterfly Heart by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern and V-neck in ”Belle”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no vs-010
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color no 11, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – for edges in garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 3.15 $ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 3.15 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for correct size.

SHORT ROWS:
When turning in short rows, slip first st as if to K. Tighten thread and make sure to avoid big holes.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 3 sts remain (includes the 2 new sts worked for the first time), K 2 tog.
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JUMPER:
Work from the middle of V-neck and out in 3 triangles on front piece and 4 triangles on back piece, then work downwards.

FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth from neck and down. Cast on 8 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 15 sts on needle. Work next row as follows (from RS): Work YOs from previous row twisted, they should not make holes. Work 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1, insert 1st marker, A.1, insert 2nd marker, A.1 (= repeat A.1 3 times in total on row), finish with 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 123-123-123-123-129-129 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 11-11-11-11-12-12 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" from cast-on edge.

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.2 over the first 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.4 over the last 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, after A.4 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Work A.4 to A.2 on next row, after A.2 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram).

When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½" from cast-on edge.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK PATTERN AS BEFORE WHILE AT THE SAME TIME WORKING SHORT ROWS IN EACH SIDE OF PIECE.
PATTERN:
Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 st in garter st, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stockinette st, work A.5 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.6 over the next 6 sts, 43-43-53-53-57-57 sts in stockinette st, A.7 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.8 over the next 6 sts, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stockinette st, finish with 1 st in garter st. Repeat A.5 to A.8 over the 6 sts on each side of each marker 2-3-2-3-4-5 times in total, then repeat the first 0-0-6-4-4-4 rows of A.5 to A.8 1 more times.
SHORT ROWS:
AT THE SAME TIME when 2-6-0-2-0-6 rows of A.5 to A.8 have been worked, work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above - in each side of piece as follows: Work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain on row (work A.5 to A.8 as before), turn and work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain, turn piece. Then work short rows in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE M:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE L-XL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-2 times in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less on every turn 3-2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE XXL-XXXL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-1 time in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less for every turn 4-4 times in each side of piece, then work 2 sts less on every turn 4-5 times in each side of piece.

ALL SIZES:
When the short rows have been worked, work last row from WS, so that next row beg from shoulder.
Then work over all sts from RS as follows: Work in garter st over the first 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly, work as before (i.e. A.5 to A.8 and stockinette st) until 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts remain, work in garter st over the last sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly (= 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece).

Work 3 rows in garter st over the outermost 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece, pattern and stockinette st over the remaining sts. On next row from WS work as follows: K the first 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts and slip them on a stitch holder for sleeve, work 2 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st and pattern as before until 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts remain, 2 sts in garter st, K the next 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts and then slip them on a stitch holder for sleeve. Cut the yarn. 8-8-8-12-12-12 rows of A.5 to A.8 remain. Beg next row from RS.

Continue to work in garter st over the first and last 2 sts in each side of piece. When A.5 to A.8 have been worked, there are 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts before 1st marker, 79-91-99-107-123-135 sts between 1st and 2nd marker and 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts after 2nd marker = 125-141-151-161-187-203 sts in total on row.

Piece measures approx. 21-24-25-27-32-35 cm / 8 1/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-10½"-12½"-13 3/4" on the widest measured from cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. On next row from RS loosely bind off the first 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts knitwise, work 1 edge st in garter st, (marker), work A.9 over the first 6 sts after marker, stockinette st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.10 over the last 6 sts before second marker, (marker
), 1 edge st in garter st, loosely cast of the last 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts knitwise = 81-93-101-109-125-137 sts remain on row. Cut the yarn. Work next row from WS over the remaining sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.10 as before, stockinette st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.9 as before, 1 edge st in garter st. When A.9 and A.10 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece.

When piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from marker, inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 1 edge st (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 12-10-12-14-12-13 times in total = 105-113-125-137-149-163 sts on needle. When piece measures 23-23-24-24-23-23 cm / 9"-9"-9½"-9½"-9"-9" from marker (piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm / 21''-21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾'' in total from shoulder), adjust so that next row is from RS, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work next row from RS as follows: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work A.11 (= 2 sts) until 2 sts remain, work first st in A.11, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. On row with holes (i.e. 7th row) work next to last st K. Bind off when A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' in total from shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Piece is first worked in the round, then worked as front piece. Cast on 6 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Belle, switch to circular needle when needed. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* = 12 sts on row, K YOs twisted on next row, they should not make holes. Work A.1 4 times in total, insert 1 marker between each A.1 (= 4 markers). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 156-156-156-156-164-164 sts on needle. Continue as follows: A.12 over the first 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, work A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.13 over the last 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder for neck edge (= 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts), after A.13 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Then work back and forth on needle. Work A.13/A.3/A.12 on next row, after A.12 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). When A.12/A.3/A.13 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm / 6"-6"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½"-7½" from cast-on edge. Now continue back piece as front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Slip sts from stitch holder for neck edge on back piece back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Fasten ridges where sts were cast on for shoulder. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew shoulder seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Tighten tog the middle (i.e. cast-on edge) on both front and back piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in stockinette st. Slip sts from the 2 stitch holders (on front and back piece) in one side of piece back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 = 80-88-96-100-108-112 sts. Work short rows for sleeve cap as follows: Beg to work in the 25th-29th-31st-35th-43rd-45th st (i.e. 24-28-30-34-42-44 sts in one side are not worked). Work from RS 34-34-38-34-26-26 sts in stockinette st, turn piece (= 22-26-28-32-40-42 sts remain on needle). Work in stockinette st over the 36-36-40-36-28-28 sts, turn piece. Work 2 sts more on every turn in each side of piece until all sts have been worked. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st in each side of piece (= 2 sts dec), inside 1 st on every 4th-4th-2nd-4th-4th-4th row 4-6-8-8-10-10 times in total – READ DECREASE TIP = 72-76-80-84-88-92 sts on needle. Work 8-8-8-12-12-12 rows in stockinette st over all sts, insert 1 marker in piece (sew side seam on sleeve up to here later). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Cast on 1 edge st at the end of the next 2 rows = 74-78-82-86-90-94 sts. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. On next row from RS dec 1 st inside 2 sts in each side of piece (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 2½-2-2-1½-1-1 cm / 7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-3/8"-3/8" 9-10-11-12-13-13 more times = 54-56-58-60-62-66 sts on needle. When sleeve measures 31-30-29-27-24-23 cm / 12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11½"-10½"-9½"-9", switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Bind off. Slip sts from stitch holders in the other side of piece on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams up to where 1 edge st in garter st was cast on in each side of piece. Sew the under arm seam.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row to make hole
= 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next row, it should NOT make a hole
= 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next row to make hole
= slip 2 sts tog as if to K, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
= cast on st - see pattern
= knitting direction





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (108)

Bloem 01.03.2020 - 20:22:

Goedenavond, ik brei maat M en ben klaar met de verkorte toeren (in A.5 t/m A.8). Mijn vraag is ook door anderen gesteld, maar helaas begrijp ik het antwoord nog steeds niet... Mijn laatste verkorte toer valt aan het (verkorte) eind van een averechte naald (dus aan de verkeerde kant van het werk). Als ik deze helemaal uitbrei zoals in de beschrijving staat, heb ik 1 verkorte toer te weinig gemaakt. Wat is nu precies de bedoeling? Dank voor uw hulp.

DROPS Design 04.03.2020 kl. 16:03:

Dag Bloem,

Ik zie inderdaad dat je niet uitkomt op die manier. Ik heb de neiging om te zeggen, begin 2 naalden eerder met de verkorte toeren of brei nog een keer heen en terug. Wellicht zit er een foutje in maat M, ik zal dit even doorgeven aan de design afdeling.

Ams 26.06.2019 - 09:28:

I am enjoying the challenge of knitting this lovely design, but would find it helpful to have larger diagrams to work from: maybe the patterns could include an option to print each diagram on a single A4 side, with the symbols alongside? This would enable me to follow the pattern by glancing at it, instead of having to use a magnifying glass to decipher some areas.

DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 06:52:

Dear Ams, whenever I want to see the diagrams larger than the given size on the page, I just click copy and paste on the individual patterns and resize each on its separate word page. I hope this helps, Happy Knitting!

Aranka 19.06.2019 - 17:44:

Ik kom er nog steeds niet uit. Ik brei maat s. En klopt het dan dat ik maar 1x een verkorte toer brei? Als ik die gebreid heb, begin ik in toer 5 van patroon A5,6,7,8. Gaat het zo goed? Want als ik door brei kom ik uiteindelijk toch halverwege het telpatroon uit. Hopelijk kunnen jullie het mij uitleggen.

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 20:18:

Dag Aranka,

Ja, in maat S brei je inderdaad maar één keer de verkorte toeren. Deze brei je aan de onderkant van het ajourpatroon, gezien wanneer je de trui draagt. Dus niet aan de kant van de zijnaden. De verkorte toer valt in het tricotsteekgedeelte.

Aranka 15.06.2019 - 21:45:

Ik brei maat s. Dan brei ik A 5,6,7,8, 2x. Om daarna verder te gaan zoals staat in ALLE MATEN. Dat doe ik dan, dan staat er er zijn nog 8nld over van A5 - A8. Alleen ik eindig halverwege dat telpatroon. Ook heb ik meer steken zoals staat bij 23 st voor de 1e marker, enz... Waar maakte een fout. Hopelijk is het duidelijk.

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 14:40:

Dag Aranka,

Voor, na en tussen A.5 tm A.8 brei je tricotsteek (dit is op het voorpand en de zijkanten. Het is apart dat je dan halverwege eindigt, want deze telpatronen zitten voor en na de markerdraden. Heb je ook tegelijkertijd de verkorte toeren gebreid.?

Stefania 30.05.2019 - 00:01:

Salve! devo lavorare la manica. ho rimesso le 80m sul ferro, e lavoro a ferri accorciati ogni volta 2m in più fino a lavorarle tutte. Non capisco dove dice "allo stesso tempo diminuire"... vuol dire che devo iniziare a diminuire durante i ferri accorciati? ovvero che la diminuzione non sarà a fine giro ma prima di voltare il lavoro? o devo iniziare a diminuire dopo aver lavorato tutte le maglie a fine ferri accorciati? grazie

DROPS Design 30.05.2019 kl. 06:53:

Buongiorno Stefania. Deve diminuire mentre sta lavorando i ferri accorciati, dopo la prima maglia all'inizio del ferro accorciato e prima dell'ultima maglia alla fine del ferro accorciato. Diminuisce così 4 volte ogni 4 ferri: in tutto 8 maglie diminuite. Alla fine dei ferri accorciati ci saranno 72 m. Buon lavoro!

Vargáné Kara Rozália 27.05.2019 - 17:02:

A jelmagyarázatnál félre érthető a leírás. A ráhajtásoknál "2 rh két szem között"-et ír. A videóban 1 ráhajtást köt.

Susy 26.05.2019 - 15:47:

Liebes Drops-Team, wie so viele andere auch hänge ich bei den verkürzten Reihen fest... 1) Ich stricke S und finde keine Ang, ausser das mit den bis 26 M. Aber dann? Str ich wie für M mit beids über 6 M, beids 2x? Meint das 6 M vor dem 1. Wenden bei 26 M, also bei 32 und dann bei 38? Oder lasse ich das bei S ganz weg? 2) Das ALLE GR ist nur eine Reihe. Wie geht die RückR? 3) Was ist mit dem "Anschlagrand" gemeint? Die Mitte? Vielen Dank für die diversen Antworten!

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 13:12:

Liebe Susy, in der Grösse S gibt es nur 2 verkürzten Reihen (= bis 26 M stricken bei der Hin- sowie der Rückreihe), dann stricken Sie weiter wie unter ALLE GRÖSSE. Mit Anschlagrand bedeudet man, von der Anschlagskante. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bloem 07.04.2019 - 21:47:

Al meteen in het begin een vraag over het VOORPAND: Brei de volgende nld als volgt (aan de goede kant): brei omsl van vorige nld gedraaid, er moeten geen gaatjes ontstaan. Brei 3 st in RIBBELST - zie uitleg boven, A.1, plaats 1e markeerder, A.1, plaats 2e markeerder, A.1 (= herhaal A.1 3 keer in totaal op de nld) en eindig met 3 st in ribbelst. \r\nMoet dit allemaal in die ene nld gebeuren, of eerst een nld waarin de omsl gedraaid gebreid worden, en daarna een nld met 3 ribbelst, A1, enz?

Bloem 07.04.2019 - 21:40:

Al meteen in het begin een vraag :) VOORPAND: Brei de volgende nld als volgt (aan de goede kant): brei omsl van vorige nld gedraaid, er moeten geen gaatjes ontstaan. Brei 3 st in RIBBELST - zie uitleg boven, A.1, plaats 1e markeerder, A.1, plaats 2e markeerder, A.1 (= herhaal A.1 3 keer in totaal op de nld) en eindig met 3 st in ribbelst. Moet dat allemaal in die ene nld gebeuren, of eerst een nld waarin de omslagen gedraaid gebreid worden, en daarna een nld met 3 ribbelst enz.?

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 21:07:

Dag Bloem,

Dat moet inderdaad allemaal in 1 naald. Dus je breit eerst 3 st. in ribbelsteek, dan A.1, plaats een markeerder en zo verder....Als je omslagen tegen komt van de vorige toer dan brei je die gedraaid zodat er geen gaatje ontstaat.

Annie BRODA 06.04.2019 - 17:44:

Bonjour J'ai réalisé cet ouvrage jusqu’à l'assemblage. ( dos et devant) Je ne comprends pas comment on reprend l'encolure ni les explications des manches. Pouvez-vous détailler ces 2 étapes ? Merci d'avance Bien cordialement

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 09:24:

Bonjour Mme Broda, pour l'encolure dos, vous avez mis en attente 39-41 m (cf taille), vous reprenez ces mailles sur l'aiguille et tricotez 4 rangs endroit (= 2 côtes mousse), rabattez et cousez les bords de ces côtes mousse de chaque côté aux mailles montées pour les épaules. Les manches se tricotent à partir des mailles en attente mais en commençant à la maille indiquée pour la taille pour former l'arrondi de la manche, puis vous tricotez 2 m en plus à la fin de chaque rang (= de chaque côté) tout en diminuant tous les 2 ou 4 rangs. Bonne continuation!

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