DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Butterfly Heart Top

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and V-neck in ”Belle”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 170-4
DROPS design: Pattern no vs-011
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 11, old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for edges in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. See diagram for correct size.

SHORT ROWS:
When turning in short rows, slip first st as if to K. Tighten thread and make sure to avoid big holes.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.
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TOP:
Work from the middle of V-neck and out in 3 triangles on front piece and 4 triangles on back piece, then work downwards.

FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth from neck and down. Cast on 8 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Belle. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 15 sts on needle. Work next row as follows (from RS): Work YOs from previous row twisted, they should not make holes. Work 3 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, A.1, insert 1st marker, A.1, insert 2nd marker, A.1 (= repeat A.1 3 times in total on row), finish with 3 sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 123-123-123-123-129-129 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 11-11-11-11-12-12 cm from cast-on edge.

Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.2 over the first 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.4 over the last 42-42-42-42-44-44 sts, after A.4 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Work A.4 to A.2 on next row, after A.2 cast on 8 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram).

When A.2 to A.4 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm from cast-on edge.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! WORK PATTERN AS BEFORE WHILE AT THE SAME TIME WORKING SHORT ROWS IN EACH SIDE OF PIECE.
PATTERN:
Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 st in garter st, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stocking st, work A.5 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.6 over the next 6 sts, 43-43-53-53-57-57 sts in stocking st, A.7 over the next 6 sts, (marker), A.8 over the next 6 sts, 48-48-52-52-55-55 sts in stocking st, finish with 1 st in garter st. Repeat A.5 to A.8 over the 6 sts on each side of each marker 2-3-2-3-4-5 times in total, then repeat the first 0-0-6-4-4-4 rows of A.5 to A.8 1 more times.
SHORT ROWS:
AT THE SAME TIME when 2-6-0-2-0-6 rows of A.5 to A.8 have been worked, work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above - in each side of piece as follows: Work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain on row (work A.5 to A.8 as before), turn and work until 26-26-24-23-18-18 sts remain, turn piece. Then work short rows in the different sizes as follows:
SIZE M:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE L-XL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-2 times in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less on every turn 3-2 times in each side of piece.
SIZE XXL-XXXL:
Work 6 sts less for every turn 1-1 time in each side of piece, then work 4 sts less for every turn 4-4 times in each side of piece, then work 2 sts less on every turn 4-5 times in each side of piece.

ALL SIZES:
When the short rows have been worked, work last row from WS, so that next row beg from shoulder.
Then work over all sts from RS as follows: Work in garter st over the first 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly, work as before (i.e. A.5 to A.8 and stocking st) until 42-44-46-48-50-52 sts remain, work in garter st over the last sts AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly (= 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece).

Work 3 rows in garter st over the outermost 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts in garter st in each side of piece, pattern and stocking st over the remaining sts. On next row from WS work as follows: Cast off with K over the first 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts for armhole, work 2 sts in garter st, work in stocking st and pattern as before until 42-46-50-52-56-58 sts remain, 2 sts in garter st, cast off with K over the last 40-44-48-50-54-56 sts for armhole. Cut the yarn. 8-8-8-12-12-12 rows of A.5 to A.8 remain. Beg next row from RS.

Continue to work in garter st over the first and last 2 sts in each side of piece. When A.5 to A.8 have been worked, there are 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts before 1st marker, 79-91-99-107-123-135 sts between 1st and 2nd marker and 23-25-26-27-32-34 sts after 2nd marker = 125-141-151-161-187-203 sts in total on row.

Piece measures approx. 21-24-25-27-32-35 cm on the widest measured from cast-on edge. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. On next row from RS loosely cast off the first 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts with K, work 1 edge st in garter st, (marker), work A.9 over the first 6 sts after marker, stocking st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.10 over the last 6 sts before second marker, (marker), 1 edge st in garter st, loosely cast off the last 22-24-25-26-31-33 sts = 81-93-101-109-125-137 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn. Work next row from WS over the remaining sts as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.10 as before, stocking st over the next 67-79-87-95-111-123 sts, A.9 as before, 1 edge st in garter st. When A.9 and A.10 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece.

When piece measures 3 cm from marker, inc 1 st in each side of piece inside 1 edge st (= 2 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm 12-10-12-14-12-13 times in total = 105-113-125-137-149-163 sts on needle. When piece measures 23-23-24-24-23-23 cm from marker (piece measures 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm in total from shoulder), adjust so that next row is from RS, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work next row from RS as follows: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work A.11 (= 2 sts) until 2 sts remain, work first st in A.11, finish with 1 edge st in garter st. On row with holes (i.e. 7th row) work next to last st K. Cast off when A.11 has been worked 1 time vertically. Piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm in total from shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Piece is first worked in the round, then worked as front piece. Cast on 6 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Belle, switch to circular needle when needed. K 1 row. On next row inc as follows: * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* = 12 sts on row, K YOs twisted on next row, they should not make holes. Work A.1 4 times in total, insert 1 marker between each A.1 (= 4 markers). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 156-156-156-156-164-164 sts on needle. Continue as follows: A.12 over the first 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, work A.3 over the next 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts and A.13 over the last 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder for neck edge (= 39-39-39-39-41-41 sts), after A.13 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). Then work back and forth on needle. Work A.13/A.3/A.12 on next row, after A.12 cast on 11 sts at the end of row for shoulder (see diagram). When A.12/A.3/A.13 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 165-165-183-183-193-193 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 15-15-17-17-19-19 cm from cast-on edge. Now continue back piece as front piece.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Slip sts from stitch holder for neck edge on back piece back on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Fasten ridges where sts were cast on for shoulder. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Sew shoulder seams inside 1 edge st in garter st. Tighten tog the middle (i.e. cast-on edge) on both front and back piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.02.2016
New yarn amout:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour no 11, old pink

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO on next row to make hole
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, P YO twisted on next row, it should NOT make a hole
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO on next row to make hole
symbols = slip 2 sts tog as if to K, K 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over
symbols = cast on st - see pattern
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (96)

country flag Petra Wisiak wrote:

Hallo! Ich bin beim Rückenteil an den Punkt, wo man wie beim Vorderteil vorgehen soll. Bedeutet das auch, das man die verkürzten Reihen stricken muss, oder wo muss ich hier beginnen. Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

02.06.2024 - 22:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wisiak, die 1. verkürzte Reihe ist eine Hinreihe, wo man bis 26-26-24-23-18-18 M strickt, dann wendet man und strickt wie zuvor bis 26-26-24-23-18-18 M am Ende der Reihe übrig sind, so wurde nur die mittleren Maschen gestrickt, und so weiter stricken, dh je nach der Größe immer mehr Maschen stilllegen/nicht stricken. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

03.06.2024 - 08:17

country flag Frau Strick Strickt wrote:

Letztes Jahr habe ich den Sweater gestrickt und gerade habe ich das Top auf den Nadeln. Gratulation an die Designerin für diese großartige Konstruktion!

22.04.2024 - 20:52

country flag Andrea wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få det her pænt: tag 2 m løst af p sammen som skal de strikkes ret, 1 r, løft de 2 løse m over. På billedet kan man ikke se forskel men på mit arb ses det tydeligt. Hvordan gør jeg?

20.03.2024 - 17:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Andrea. Ta en titt på hjelpevideoen til denne toppen. Se: Top 170-4 m V-hals og hulmønster. I denne videoen vises det hvordan det strikkes. Klikk på VIDEOER øverst ved bildet. mvh DROPS Design

02.04.2024 - 13:22

country flag Cris wrote:

Pattern 170-4 beginning top front 15 st graph r1 says k1yoX3 = 9st & 3st in garter. This is 12st but there are 15 St on needle. 3 triangles for front but what to do with 3 extra st?

10.03.2024 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cris, you have 3 sts in garter stitch at the beginning and the end of the row and 3 repeats of A.1 in between them. 3+(3x3)+3= 15 sts. Happy knitting!

11.03.2024 - 00:10

country flag Merete Kruse Ogstrup wrote:

Jeg er igang med A1str L. Og første gang man skal tage 2 løst af mangler jeg 2 x3 masker i næste? Med både aftagne masker plus omslag, så får jeg kun 23 masker men næste linie er 25? Er det en fejl i diagrammet eller mangler jeg at slå flere masker om? Jeg læser 1r, sl, 2vr, 2m sammen, sl,, 5r, 2 løst af 1 r, 5r, sl, 1løst af 1r, 2vr, sl, 1r. =1+1+2+1+1+5+1+5+1+1+2+1+1 =23 masker. Næste er (fra vrang siden) 1vr, 3r 17vr, 3,r, 1vr = 25

23.02.2024 - 10:49

country flag Petra wrote:

Ich möchte jetzt das Rückenteil anfangen dass zuerst in Runden gestrickt wird. Meine Frage stricke ich in den Runden nur die Hinreihe von A1 oder Hin- und Rückreihe. Danke für eine schnelle Antwort. Vorderteil hat übrigens sehr gut geklappt auch mit den verkürzten Reihen

17.02.2024 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, wenn Sie A.1 in Runden stricken, stricken Sie alle Reihen in Diagram, dh alle Reihen lesen Sie rechts nach links (alle "Hin-Reihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2024 - 09:05

country flag Andreea wrote:

Hello, I don't understand how to work the back in the round? Please explain to me how I can join the 6 stitches from the beginning in the round. Thank you very much.

14.08.2023 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andra, you can use the traditionnal cast on technique on double pointed needles for back piece, note that back piece is started in the round, and not worked back and forth as you did for front piece. You can also cast on with the magic loop. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 - 13:37

country flag Vibeke Bekke wrote:

Hejsa. Jeg har et problem. I A1 på rk. 6 er der 4 nye masker og ikke 2 som udtaget til, er det en fejl, eller hvordan skal dette forstås? Mvh

03.08.2023 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vibeke, sådan skal det være, se videoen vi har lavet til dig :)

10.08.2023 - 13:24

country flag Laura wrote:

Buongiorno. Mi sono arenata iniziando i ferri accorciati. Io ho una taglia S, in teoria i ferri accorciati sono una volta. Quindi io accorcio il totale dei punti di 26 da una parte e 26 dall'altra e continuo gli schemi A5-A8 sulle maglie restanti?

24.07.2023 - 19:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Laura, sul ferro di andata lavora fino a quando rimangono 26 maglie, poi gira il lavoro e sul ferro di ritorno lavora fino a quando rimangono 26 maglie. Buon lavoro!

31.07.2023 - 19:43

country flag Henny Vestjens wrote:

Welke moeilijkheidsgraad heeft dit topje? Ik brei vaak sokken of kabels maar heb nog nooit een kantpatroon gebreid. Ik vind dit een heel mooi patroon maar vraag me af of het niet te moeilijk is. Alvast bedankt, Henny

23.06.2023 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henny,

Als je veel brei-ervaring hebt is dit patroon prima te doen als je rustig alles leest en stap voor stap volgt. Ook kun je meer informatie vinden bij de video's en stap-voor-stap instructies onderaan het patroon.

25.06.2023 - 18:03