DROPS / 169 / 6

White Flower by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle with leaf pattern in "BabyAlpaca Silk" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-101
Yarn group A + A or C
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
300-350-400 g color no 1101, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-200 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 30 rows in garter st with 2 strands = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.75 CAD /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.75 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.75 CAD /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.75 CAD /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.75 CAD /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 69.25CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Worked in a circle from mid back in the round.

Cast on 8 sts with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 (= 2 sts on per needle). Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of A.1 in width). When the first 27 rounds in A.1 have been worked, displace beg of round 1 st towards the left first on every other round, then every 4th round – i.e. beg of round is always before first YO in diagram so make it less visible. Beg of round at the end will be in the middle of first repetition of A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Switch to circular needle when needed. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically, there are 208 sts on round, piece measures approx. 34 cm / 13½'' in diameter. Insert 8 markers in piece, insert 1st marker in 1st st on round, then insert 7 markers in sts with 25 sts apart, markers are directly over tip on each leaf. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on first round inc 1 st on each side of markers. Inc with 1 YO on each side of sts with marker – on next round P YO twisted to avoid holes = 16 inc sts per round. Repeat inc every other round 1-2-3 more times (= 32-48-64 inc sts in total) = 240-256-272 sts.

On next round K, AT THE SAME TIME bind off all sts between 2nd and 3rd marker and 7th and 8th marker for armholes (= bind off 30-32-34 sts in each side). P next round, AT THE SAME TIME cast on 30-32-34 new sts over the bind off sts between 2nd and 3rd marker and 7th and 8th marker. When all sts are cast on again, there are 240-256-272 sts on needle.

Then work as follows: Work A.2 over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of sts with marker on every round with star (= 16 sts per inc round) = 384-400-416 sts. Piece measures approx. 66-68-70 cm / 26"-26 3/4"-27½" in diameter.

Then work as follows: Keep sts between 2nd and 4th marker on needle, slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder = 96-100-104 sts on needle. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - back and forth over these sts, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row slip the last 2 sts on stitch holder (do not work them, turn). NOTE: Continue with inc on each side of the 3rd marker every 4th row. Continue until 44 sts remain on needle. Slip the last 44 sts on stitch holder.

Slip sts between 6th and 8th marker on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10, and work the same way in this side. Then K all sts from RS back onto circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 - pick up and twist yarn between every time st on stitch holder in each side is slipped on needle (i.e. between every other st to avoid holes in transition) = approx. 512-540-568 sts. Work 4 ridges in garter st, bind off.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 32-32-40 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work A.3 1 time vertically (= 4-4-5 repetitions in width), on last round inc 1 st = 33-33-41 sts. Insert 1 marker in first st at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Then work in stockinette st but on every other round work as follows: Beg 2 sts before st with marker: K 2 tog, 1 YO, st with marker, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso, work in stockinette st over the remaining sts. On next round K YO to make hole, there should be an eyelet row upwards mid under sleeve, but no of sts remain the same. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', beg inc mid under sleeve, work YOs and stockinette st as before but do NOT dec on each side of YOs = 2 sts inc. Repeat inc this way every 3 cm / 1'' 13-14-14 more times = 61-63-71 sts. Work until piece measures 54-55-56 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-22", bind off. Make another sleeve.

Sew in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.10.2017
BACK PIECE: Cast on 8 sts with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm (= 2 sts on per needle). Work according to A.1 (= 8 repetitions of A.1 in width). When the first 27 rounds in A.1 have been worked,...


= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= inc round

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

Loredana 12.07.2016 - 10:45:

Buongiorno! Potete spiegare meglio cosa s'intende....riprendere e arrotolare il filo prima che la maglia sul fermamaglie a ogni lato sia trasferita sul ferro (cioè a m alterne per evitare buchi nei punti di passaggio). Grazie mille Loredana

DROPS Design 12.07.2016 kl. 11:37:

Buongiorno Loredana. Deve sollevare il filo tra le maglie e metterlo ritorto sul ferro. Buon lavoro!

Loredana 11.07.2016 - 15:42:

Vi chiedo ancora.....se lascio le maglie restanti sui ferri circolari posso trasferire direttamente su questi le ultime due maglie che non vanno lavorate ? Grazie!

DROPS Design 11.07.2016 kl. 16:30:

Buongiorno Loredana. Sì, può organizzare le maglie come meglio preferisce. Buon lavoro!

Loredana 11.07.2016 - 15:26:

Buon pomeriggio, sono arrivata al punto in cui bisogna dividere le maglie per lavorare i due davanti e precisamente quando dice tenere le maglie tra il 2° ed il 4° segnapunti (100 maglie) , queste maglie vanno da quella che determina il secondo segnapunti ed il terzo segnapunti , fino a quella prima del 4° segnaposti. Giusto? Grazie Loredana

DROPS Design 11.07.2016 kl. 16:29:

Buongiorno Loredana. Sì è corretto, le m vanno dalla m con il secondo segnapunti alla m prima del quarto segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

Loredana 21.06.2016 - 13:18:

Grazie! Ho risolto lavorando i primi giri con il Magic loop.... Adesso vi chiedo questo, dopoil 21 giro bisogna spostare l'inizio giro di una maglia verso sinistra...cosa s'intende? Spostare la prima maglia di ogni ferro sul ferro di destra? Grazie

DROPS Design 21.06.2016 kl. 13:24:

Buongiorno Loredana, deve semplicemente spostare il segnapunti di inizio giro (se lo utilizza) di 1 m verso sinistra prima a giri alterni poi ogni 4 giri, in modo che il giro inizi sempre prima del 1° gettato nel diagramma. Buon lavoro!

Loredana 21.06.2016 - 11:01:

Buongiorno! Sto cercando d'iniziare il lavoro ma non riesco a tenere le maglie sul gioco di ferri.....si sfilano in continuazione!!!!! Avete qualche suggerimento da darmi? Grazie mille, Loredana

DROPS Design 21.06.2016 kl. 11:09:

Buongiorno Loredana. Potrebbe applicare alle punte dei ferri dei salvapunte in modo che le maglie non si sfilino, oppure usare dei ferri circolari con un cavo corto e finché il numero delle m è molto basso, utilizzare la tecnica del magic loop. Trova un esempio della tecnica nel video sotto. Buon lavoro!

Ulrike B. 18.06.2016 - 14:32:

Das Modell ist super. Mir stellt sich nur folgende Frage: man soll, nachdem man die ersten 21 Rd. von A1 gestrickt hat, den Rd.Anfang immer um eine M nach links verschieben zuerst in jeder 2. Rd. dann in jeder 4. Rd.. Wann genau in welchen Runden soll ich das machen? Das heißt wie oft in der 2. und wie oft in der 4. Rd? Für Hilfe wäre ich dankbar. Viele Grüße Ulrike B.

DROPS Design 20.06.2016 kl. 20:34:

Hallo Ulrike, verschieben Sie so lange, bis das Rd-Ende zuletzt mitten im ersten Rapport von A.1 ist.

Yvonne 23.03.2016 - 09:37:

Stricke die Jacke gerade mit Drops Big Delight Sonnenaufgang, sieht ganz toll aus! Allerdings ist eine Rundnadel mit 80 cm etwas knapp bemessen, wenn man sich dem Ende nähert, immerhin hat die Jacke einen Durchmesser von einem Meter! Ich habe mir daher eine neue mit 120 cm Seillänge bestellt.

Gonet Yvette 12.02.2016 - 13:50:

Le résultat de ce travail est MAGNIFIQUE ! Merci pour ces beaux modèles. Avez-vous aussi un modèle pour enfant (10 ans) à faire de la même façon ? Merci Yvette

DROPS Design 12.02.2016 kl. 14:50:

Bonjour Mme Gonet, et merci. Nous avons seulement des modèles au crochet (ici) dans ce type de gilet, mais votre demande va être soumise à nos stylistes. Bon tricot!

Gonet Yvette 02.02.2016 - 08:13:

Bonjour madame, dans la partie dos de ce modèle quand les 21 tours de A1 ont été tricotés il faut décaler d'1 maille à gauche tous les 2 tours puis tous les 4 tours, je n'ai pas bien compris c'est le dessin qui se déplace d'une maille ? merci de votre aide. Yvette

DROPS Design 02.02.2016 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Mme Gonet, à partir du 21ème tour faites commencer les tours après la 1ère m env dans le 1er A.1 - ainsi les mailles point mousse n'auront pas de démarcation. Progressivement, le milieu du tour va se décaler et à la fin de A.1, il sera au milieu du 1er motif. Bon tricot!

Loredana 29.01.2016 - 21:07:

Buonasera! Come si fa per capire quale taglia eseguire? Quale misura prendere? Grazie mille Loredana

DROPS Design 29.01.2016 kl. 22:26:

Buonasera Loredana, in basso, sotto le istruzioni, può trovare lo schema con le misure. Provi a misurare uno dei suoi maglioni che ha più o meno la stessa forma di questo per individuare la taglia corretta. Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 169-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.