DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 5.50 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Weekend Getaway

Knitted DROPS jumper with raglan, vent in the sides and stripes, worked top down in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 169-7
DROPS design: Pattern no as-052
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color no 01, off white
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color no 15, light sea green
NOTE: Garment worked in one color = 175-175-200-225-225-250 g Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 5.50 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work stripes as follows on body and sleeves:
Work 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-4½" with off white. Work 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-4½" with light sea green. Then work with off white until finished measurements.

RAGLAN BODY:
NOTE: K all YOs on next round to make holes.
Inc 2 sts as follows:
Before 1st and 3rd marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 in next st, 1 YO, K 2.
After 2nd and 4th marker: K 2, 1 YO, K 2 in next st.
Then inc 1 st as follows:
Before 1st and 3rd marker: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, 1 YO, K 2.
After 2nd and 4th marker: K 2, 1 YO.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc 1 st after 1st and 3rd marker as follows: K 2, 1 YO.
Inc 1 st before 2nd and 4th marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, 1 YO, K 2.
On next round K the YO to make hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 1.
Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
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JUMPER:
Worked in stockinette st in the round, from the top and down to vent on body. Then divide the piece in front and back piece and continue back and forth until finished measurements. NOTE: Beg round = mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 80-80-85-85-90-90 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with light sea green. K 1 round. Then work 4 rounds rib (= K 2/P 3). Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work 1 round in stockinette st while inc 18-20-21-25-24-30 sts evenly = 98-100-106-110-114-120 sts. Now insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work the first 15-16-16-16-17-18 sts (= half back piece), insert 1st marker, work the next 18-18-20-22-22-24 sts (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, work the next 31-32-33-33-35-36 sts (= front piece), insert 3rd marker, work the next 18-18-20-22-22-24 sts (= sleeve), insert 4th marker, work the remaining 16-16-17-17-18-18 sts (= half back piece).
On next round beg inc for raglan. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body - READ RAGLAN BODY and RAGLAN SLEEVE.
Inc as follows:
Work until 3 sts remain before 1st marker, K 2 in next st, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO, work until 2 sts remain before 2nd marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO, K 2 in next st, work until 3 sts remain before 3rd marker, K 2 in next st, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO, work until 2 sts before 4th marker, 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO, K 2 in next st, work the remaining sts on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Repeat inc on every other round as follows:
On sleeves 14-15-16-17-19-20 more times (= 15-16-17-18-20-21 times in total), on body with 2 sts 7-9-11-14-16-20 more times (= 8-10-12-15-17-21 times in total) and then on body with 1 st 7-6-5-3-3-0 times. When all inc are done, there are 250-268-290-314-342-372 sts on round and piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½'' from the neck mid front and down.

Now work as follows: Work the first 38-42-45-49-54-60 sts (= half back piece) slip the next 48-50-54-58-62-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 sts under sleeve, work the next 77-84-91-99-109-120 sts (= front piece), slip the next 48-50-54-58-62-66 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 39-42-46-50-55-60 sts on needle (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
There are now 170-184-198-214-234-256 sts on round. Continue in the round in stockinette st and STRIPES - see explanation above.
When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm / 13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''-15¾'', work as follows: Work 39-43-46-50-55-61 sts in stockinette st, work 6 sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work 79-86-93-101-111-122 sts in stockinette st, work 6 sts in garter st, work stockinette st over the remaining 40-43-47-51-56-61 sts. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been work over the 6 sts in each side (= over vents). Now divide the piece into front and back piece as follows: Work the first 42-46-49-53-58-64 sts as before (i.e. stockinette st with 3 sts in garter st in the side), turn and work back over 85-92-99-107-117-128 sts (work the first and last 3 sts in garter st) = back piece. Slip the remaining 85-92-99-107-117-128 sts on a stitch holder for front piece. Continue back and forth over sts on needle until piece measures 42-43-44-48-46-47 cm / 16½"-17"-17 1/4"-19"-18"-18½". On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and inc 13-16-19-21-21-25 sts evenly (but not over the 3 outermost sts) = 98-108-118-128-138-153 sts. Work 1 row from WS as before, then work rib (K 2/P 3) with 3 sts in garter st in each side. NOTE: Beg and end with K 2 inside the 3 sts in garter st in each side. When rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', bind off with K over K and P over P. Piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' in total from shoulder. Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle and work as back piece.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in stockinette st in the round on double pointed needles. There are 48-50-54-58-62-66 sts for each sleeve. Slip sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and cast on 8 new sts under sleeve = 56-58-62-66-70-74 sts. Work in stockinette st and stripes as on body in the round, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve (i.e. 4 new sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec approx. every 4-4-3-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½"-1½"-1"-1"-7/8"-7/8" 10-10-12-13-14-15 more times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 sts. When sleeve measures 45-45-45-45-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and inc 6-4-9-7-5-8 sts evenly on next round = 40-40-45-45-45-50 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 3 for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. When sleeve measures 51-51-51-51-50-50 cm / 20"-20"-20"-20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4", bind off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Kristine Bergsland wrote:

Hei, skulle gjerne sett flere bilder av denne modellen. Fra bakside, og et bedre bilde av hvordan den ser ut nederst. Vh. Kristine

25.02.2024 - 10:09

country flag Nora wrote:

Nora wrote a correction:: Oh no! I was doubling the 2 Xtra stitches for the body ineases, at each side of each PLACE MARKER instead of 4 inside the each body sections and 2 on each side of each sleeve section = 12 total.! That is why the raglan line did not line up !! :( I will have to unravel and only double the 2 stitches inside the body panes and only double one on the slee e sides.!!! Thank you for your patience. I just dont want to give up yet.

18.10.2023 - 22:15

country flag Nora wrote:

Oh no! I was doubling the 2 Xtra stitches for the body ineases, at each side of each!!! That is why the raglan line did not line up !! :( I will have to unravel and only double the 2 stitches inside the body panes only!!!

17.10.2023 - 20:55

country flag Nora wrote:

Thank you for your answer about the raglan increases! It helped :) Now, about the body increases. So there are 2 increases (1 on each side of the sleeve markers, totaling 8 stitches added for a certain number of rows per size. Then, it changes time only 2 increases on each side of the markers for a total of 4 increases, for a certain number of rows, correct?

16.10.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nora, correct the increases are done on a different rhythm on body and on sleeves, but you will increase either 2 sts or 1 stitch on body and only 2 st on each sleeve, so when increasing 2 sts on body you will increase 12 sts (2 sts at the beg of front/back piece + 2 sts at the end of front/back piece + 1 st at the beg of sleeves + 1 st at the end of sleeves). Then you will increase only 1 stitch at the beg + 1 st at th end of front/back piece (and still 1 st on each side of sleeve). Happy knitting!

17.10.2023 - 09:15

country flag Nora wrote:

I don't understand the body increases: Before 1st and 3rd marker: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 in next st, 1 YO, K 2. After 2nd and 4th marker: K 2, 1 YO, K 2 in next st. K2 in next stitch means that you k and k through the back loop? And add a nee stitch in addition to yhe YO?

14.10.2023 - 06:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nora, yes, you knit 1 stitch in the front loop and 1 stitch in the back loop. And yes, you will have 2 new stitches for every marker (As shown in the RAGLAN BODY tip, you inc 2 sts on each marker). Happy knitting!

16.10.2023 - 00:28

country flag Jasmine L Copeland wrote:

Hi it is unclear to me when to do inc 1 or inc 2 for the raglan body. I am knitting a small

18.03.2023 - 12:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jasmine, the first 8 times (rounds) that you increase on the body, you will increase 2 stitches, before the 1st and 3rd markers and after the 2nd and 4th markers (as indicated in RAGLAN BODY). After having worked these increases 8 times, the next time you increase on the body you will increase only 1 stitch at each marker. You will continue with this increase 7 times in total (so 6 more times). Happy knitting!

19.03.2023 - 20:25

country flag Pat Lampron wrote:

Now I get it !!! Sorry, really dumb when it comes to math (and I’m knitting???) anyway it finally clicked after reading your explanation several times and the instructions a few dozen!!! One less sweater I have to rip out... thanks so much!!!

15.10.2020 - 18:31

country flag Pat Lampron wrote:

In answer to your question I’m working on a large and then will be making a medium...

15.10.2020 - 11:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lampron, in size L you cast on 85 sts and increase 21 sts evenly = 106 sts - you then increase for raglan: 2 sts on each sleeve a total of 17 times = 2 x17x2 sleeves = 68 sts inc. Then on body: 4 sts x 12 x 2 (front/back) = 96 sts + 2 sts x 5 x 2 (front/back) = 20 sts = 106+68+96+20=290 sts. Hope this will help you!

15.10.2020 - 11:58

country flag Pat Lampron wrote:

I’m working on this pattern and numbers don’t seem to be adding up in regard to the increases - still working on the beginning before putting sleeve stitches on a holder. If I do the increases the number of times listed, the front and backs definitely don’t add up. Can you look at this and give me some clarification?

14.10.2020 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lampron, sure we can explain you, just tell us which size you are working on.

15.10.2020 - 09:04

country flag Helene wrote:

Jeg er prøvd flere Drops oppskrifter, og har som regel vært fornøyd. Men denne oppskriften må det være noe galt med. Jeg bruker vanligvis str. S eller M, og la derfor opp 80 masker for å begynne på bærestykket, som oppskriften sier for str. S og M. Etter å ha strikket ferdig vrangborden, er det tydelig at den er altfor liten. Den går ikke over hodet mitt i det hele tatt. Svært misvisende når bildet av modellen viser en genser med ganske vid hals.

03.07.2020 - 22:00