DROPS Extra / 0-1159

Aberdeen by DROPS Design

Men's knitted sweater in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Aberdeen / DROPS Extra 0-1159 - Men's knitted sweater in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Aberdeen / DROPS Extra 0-1159 - Men's knitted sweater in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-008
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour no 04, medium grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - for rib.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows/rounds in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st on each side of every A.1 (= 8 sts dec on row/round):
Dec as follows before A.1: Work until 2 sts before A.1, K 2 tog = 1 st dec.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 1 st dec.

Dec 2 sts on each side of every A.1 as follows (= 16 sts dec on row):
Dec as follows before A.1: Work until 3 sts remain before A.1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 2 sts dec.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 2 sts dec.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
Jumper is worked in the round on circular needle up to neck. When binding off for neck, continue back and forth. Rounds start mid back.

BODY:
Cast on 176-188-204-224-244-268 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Air. Work rib = K 2/P 2 in the round for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. On next round switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and dec 32-32-36-40-44-48 sts evenly = 144-156-168-184-200-220 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½'', bind off for armholes in each side as follows: Work 31-34-37-41-45-50 sts in stockinette st (= half back piece), bind off 10 sts under sleeve, work 62-68-74-82-90-100 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), bind off 10 sts and work the remaining 31-34-37-41-45-50 sts in stockinette(= half back piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 40-40-44-44-44-48 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. On next round switch to double pointed/circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and dec 5-3-5-3-3-7 sts evenly = 35-37-39-41-41-41 sts. When sleeve measures 8cm / 3" in all sizes, insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). On next round inc 1 st in each side of marker - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 6th-6th-6th-6th-5th-5th round 8-7-3-3-14-7 more time, then on each 5th-5th-5th-5th-4th-4th round 6-7-12-12-2-11 times = 65-67-71-73-75-79 sts. Work the new sts in stockinette st. When piece measures 54-53-53-53-53-53 cm, bind off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 55-57-61-63-65-69 sts remain on sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 234-250-270-290-310-338 sts. Now continue with stockinette st and pattern in every transition between front and back piece and sleeves from beg of round: Continue in stockinette st over the first 28-31-34-38-42-47 sts, A.1 (= 7 sts), stockinette st over the next 47-49-53-55-57-61 sts, A.1, 56-62-68-76-84-94 sts in stockinette, A.1, 47-49-53-55-57-61 sts in stockinette, A.1, 28-31-34-38-42-47 sts in stockinette. Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above, and dec for neck as follows: READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

RAGLAN:
NOTE: Continue in the round until bind off for neck. Then work the rest of yoke back and forth.To obtain the correct measurements, make sure your gauge is always correct when working raglan!
Repeat dec for raglan every other round/every row from RS 15-16-16-17-18-18 more times (= 8 sts per dec), then dec 2 sts on each side of every raglan(= 16 sts per dec). Repeat dec 1-1-2-2-2-3 more times.
NECK DEC:
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', bind off the middle 14-16-16-16-18-20 sts on front piece for neck. Then work piece back and forth and work edge st towards the neck in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st on each side of neck - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row until finished measurements. NOTE: Neck dec overlaps dec for raglan on front piece. I.e. when there is not enough sts to dec for raglan on front piece, continue dec for neck over A.1.

When raglan and neck dec are done piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' from bottom edge to shoulder..
Now work an elevation in the neck: Beg from RS and work as before until 7 sts, turn, tighten yarn, work back until 7 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 10 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 10 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 13 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 13 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 16 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 16 sts remain. Bind off.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Start mid front on the right side of sts dec for neck. Pick up on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Air: 43-45-46-48-50-52 sts up to shoulder, then pick up 26-27-27-27-29-29 sts in the back of neck, and finally 43-45-46-48-50-52 sts down along left side of neck dec = 112-117-119-123-129-133 sts. (Do not pick up sts at the front of neck where sts were bound off.) K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-7-5-5-7-7 sts evenly = 116-124-124-128-136-140 sts. Then work rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 6 cm / 2½''. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 14 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 130-138-138-142-150-154 sts. Continue to work until collar measures 10-11-11-11-12-13 cm / 4"-4½"-4½"-4½"-4 3/4"-5", bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the collar double (left side over right side) at the bottom of neck opening and sew it to the neck line at the front through both layers. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1159) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (216)

country flag Izzie 08.10.2021 - 15:15:

Hi, after joining the sleeves to the body in the round to work the yoke, the instruction says "continue in stocking st over the first 28 sts, A.1, stocking st over the next 47 sts...." and so on. My question is, where is the beginning of the round now? I must have done something wrong, because my counting puts the second pattern in the middle what would be the front.

user icon DROPS Design 10.10.2021 kl. 23:22:

Dear Izzie, the beginning of the round is the mid-back. A.1 is the transition between the body and the sleeve for the raglan. The 47 sts are for the sleeve, 56 sts for the front, 47 sts for the next sleeve and the first and last 28 sts are for both halves of the back. Happy knitting!

country flag Margot 10.09.2021 - 05:55:

Hello, I am confused about the instruction to cast off after the neck elevation. Do I only cast off the 16 stitches in the middle (size M), or do I need to cast off all 48 stitches somehow? If so, how to I get to the end of the row so that I can cast off all of them?

user icon DROPS Design 10.09.2021 kl. 08:40:

Dear Margot, to cast off all sts, cut the yarn and then sstart from the first stitch on the right side of piece (when jumper is worn) to cast off all stitches from the right side of piece. Happy knitting!

country flag Margot 10.09.2021 - 05:54:

Hello, I am confused about the instruction to cast off after the neck elevation. Do I only cast off the 16 stitches in the middle (size M), or do I need to cast off all 48 stitches somehow? If so, how to I get to the end of the row so that I can cast off all of them?

country flag Emily Thomas-kelly 06.09.2021 - 22:59:

What does Continue in stockinette st over the first 28-31-34-38-42-47 sts, A.1 (= 7 sts),mean? Is it do 28 stockinette st the do the A1 pattern?

user icon DROPS Design 07.09.2021 kl. 08:27:

Dear Mrs Thomas-kelly, you start yoke on mid back, and work now 28 sts in stockinette, then work the 7 sts as shown in A.1 (raglan line), work the next 47 sts in stockinette (sleeve), work the next 7 sts as shown in A.1 (raglan line), work the next 56 sts in stockinnette for front piece... This lesson will help you understanding how to read diagrams. Happy knitting!

country flag Veerle 17.08.2021 - 19:40:

Hier werd wat anders gezegd ! user icon DROPS Design 31.12.2017 kl. 12:07: Hoi Marlies, Met de ronding voor de hals wordt een verhoging aan de achterkant van de hals bedoeld. Ik heb de tekst een klein beetje aangepast, zodat het wat duidelijker is. Je breit aan de achterkant een aantal verkorte toeren, zodat de hals daar wat hoger wordt en je gaat tegelijkertijd verder met de minderingen voor de raglan, zodat de raglanbelijning door gaat.

country flag Veerle Van Coillie 17.08.2021 - 13:21:

Dus verder alleen het patroon van de raglan , zonder te minderen ?

user icon DROPS Design 18.08.2021 kl. 17:03:

Dag Veerle,

Ja, dat klopt!

country flag Veerle 16.08.2021 - 08:25:

Minder 2 st aan elke kant van elke A.1 als volgt (= 16 st geminderd op de nld): Minder als volgt voor A.1: brei tot er 3 st over zijn voor A.1, 1 r afh, 2 r samen, afgeh st overh = 2 st geminderd. Minder als volgt na A.1: 1 r afh, 2 r samen, afgeh st overh = 2 st geminderd DIT KLOPT VOLGENS MIJ OOK NIET ! ik heb inmiddels al veel patronen van Drops gebreid met ook het garen, maar ik heb nog nooit gezien dat er zoveel vragen waren voor een patroon.

country flag Veerle 15.08.2021 - 20:45:

Ik bedoel dus minderen !

country flag Veerle 14.08.2021 - 14:05:

Als alle minderingen voor de raglan en de hals gedaan zijn, zijn er ongeveer 44-48-50-56-62-68 steken op de naald en meet het werk ongeveer 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm van de onderrand tot de schouder. Brei nu een verhoging aan de achterkant van de hals: Tot hier ben ik nu met ongeveer het goede aantal steken en lengte. Waar begin ik de volgende naald ? En moet ik nog ergens meerderen ?

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2021 kl. 11:47:

Dag Veerle,

Je hoeft verder niet meer te minderen (heb je andere bericht gezien) en je begint aan het begin van de naald aan de goede kant, dus je begint bij de rechter schouder.

country flag Veerle 12.08.2021 - 08:51:

Sorry, heb bij de hoogte van de mouw gekeken ! Snap alleen nog niet dat de maten op het schema afwijken van de beschrijving.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-1159

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Aberdeen

Lelia Scott, United States

Aberdeen

Kammya, India

712. Aberdeen

Olajda, Norway