DROPS Extra / 0-1159

Aberdeen by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Aberdeen / DROPS Extra 0-1159 - Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Aberdeen / DROPS Extra 0-1159 - Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Air, with raglan and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-008
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour no 04, medium grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 6 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - for rib.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows/rounds in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec 1 st on each side of every A.1 (= 8 sts dec on row/round):
Dec as follows before A.1: Work until 2 sts before A.1, K 2 tog = 1 st dec.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 1 st dec.

Dec 2 sts on each side of every A.1 as follows (= 16 sts dec on row):
Dec as follows before A.1: Work until 3 sts remain before A.1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 2 sts dec.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 2 sts dec.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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JUMPER:
Jumper is worked in the round on circular needle up to neck. When casting off for neck, continue back and forth. Rounds start mid back.

BODY:
Cast on 176-188-204-224-244-268 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Work rib = K 2/P 2 in the round for 6 cm. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. On next round switch to circular needle size 6 mm and dec 32-32-36-40-44-48 sts evenly = 144-156-168-184-200-220 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm, cast off for armholes in each side as follows: Work 31-34-37-41-45-50 sts in stocking st (= half back piece), cast off 10 sts under sleeve, work 62-68-74-82-90-100 sts in stocking st (= front piece), cast off 10 sts and work the remaining 31-34-37-41-45-50 sts in stocking st (= half back piece). Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 40-40-44-44-44-48 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. On next round switch to double pointed/circular needle size 6 mm and dec 5-3-5-3-3-7 sts evenly = 35-37-39-41-41-41 sts. When sleeve measures 8-7-7-7-8-12 cm, insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). On next round inc 1 st in each side of marker - Read INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 3-3-3-3-2½-2 cm 14-14-15-15-16-18 more times = 65-67-71-73-75-79 sts. Work the new sts in stocking st. When piece measures 54-53-53-53-53-53 cm, cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 55-57-61-63-65-69 sts remain on sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 234-250-270-290-310-338 sts. Now continue with stocking st and pattern in every transition between front and back piece and sleeves from beg of round: Continue in stocking st over the first 28-31-34-38-42-47 sts, A.1 (= 7 sts), stocking st over the next 47-49-53-55-57-61 sts, A.1, 56-62-68-76-84-94 sts in stocking sts, A.1, 47-49-53-55-57-61 sts in stocking sts, A.1, 28-31-34-38-42-47 sts in stocking sts. Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above, and dec for neck as follows: READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

RAGLAN:
NOTE: Continue in the round until cast off for neck. Then work the rest of yoke back and forth.
Repeat dec for raglan every other round/every row from RS 15-16-16-17-18-18 more times (= 8 sts per dec), then dec 2 sts on each side of every raglan(= 16 sts per dec). Repeat dec 1-1-2-2-2-3 more times.
NECK DEC:
When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm, cast off the middle 14-16-16-16-18-20 sts on front piece for neck. Then work piece back and forth and work edge st towards the neck in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in garter st on each side of neck - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row until finished measurements. NOTE: Neck dec overlaps dec for raglan on front piece. I.e. when there is not enough sts to dec for raglan on front piece, continue dec for neck over A.1.

When raglan and neck dec are done, there are approx. 44-48-50-56-62-68 sts on needle. Piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from bottom edge to shoulder.
Now work an elevation in the neck: Beg from RS and work as before until 7 sts, turn, tighten yarn, work back until 7 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 10 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 10 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 13 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 13 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 16 sts remain, turn, tighten yarn, work until 16 sts remain. Cast off.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Start mid front on the right side of sts dec for neck. Pick up on circular needle size 5 mm with Air: 43-45-46-48-50-52 sts up to shoulder, then pick up 26-27-27-27-29-29 sts in the back of neck, and finally 43-45-46-48-50-52 sts down along left side of neck dec = 112-117-119-123-129-133 sts. (Do not pick up sts at the front of neck where sts were cast off.) K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-7-5-5-7-7 sts evenly = 116-124-124-128-136-140 sts. Then work rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 6 cm. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 14 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 130-138-138-142-150-154 sts. Continue to work until collar measures 10-11-11-11-12-13 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the collar double (left side over right side) at the bottom of neck opening and sew it to the neck line at the front through both layers. Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.07.2020
Sleeves: .... Work the new sts in stocking st. When piece measures 54-53-53-53-53-53 cm, cast off 10 sts mid under sleeve (= 5 sts on each side of marker) = 55-57-61-63-65-69 sts remain on sleeve.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1159) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (201)

country flag Maiken Johannessen 01.03.2021 - 09:26:

Jeg skjønner ikke denne raglanfellingen. Str. XL. Det står vi skal felle 17.g raglan, så dobbelfelling 3 ganger. Hals overlapper raglan, skal raglanfellingen forflyttes da? Å skal det felles bare en maske hver side av A1 etter det er felt 16masker i 3 omganger?

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 11:04:

Hei Maiken. Når det ikke er nok masker å felle til raglan på forstykkene, fortsetter fellingen til hals over diagram A.1. Når raglan og halsfellingen er ferdig er det ca 56 m tilbake på pinne, om du har noen flere masker, strikk i pinne til der det felles til 56 masker. Genseren måler ca 72 cm målt til skulderen. mvh DROPS design

country flag Anneke 17.02.2021 - 14:24:

Ik kan niet met een rondbrei naald overweg. ik ben licht dementerende heb jaren heel veel gebreid maar nooit met rondbrei. kunnen jullieij daar bij helpen vriendelijk dank

user icon DROPS Design 21.02.2021 kl. 10:42:

Dag Anneke,

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

country flag Muriël Bake 10.02.2021 - 20:05:

Nog één laatste vraag: Als alle minderingen voor de raglan en de hals gedaan zijn, zijn er ongeveer 56 steken op de naald in XL, staat in de instructie. Bij mij zijn het 48 steken. Kan dit ook? Ik denk namelijk dat ik alles precies volgens instructie heb gedaan. Nogmaals dank!

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 15:51:

Dag Muriël,

Dat is geen probleem hoor, er staat 'ongeveer', dus het kan ietsje afwijken.

country flag Muriël Bake 10.02.2021 - 19:54:

Hoi, ik heb steeds middenachter aangehouden als begin van iedere naald. Ook bij de raglan en het minderen voor de hals dmv rekenen en tekenen. Maar nu heb ik dus ook de halsverhoging gemaakt vanuit middenachter en weet ik niet waar ik moet beginnen met afkanten. Heeft u hier antwoord op? Alvast bedankt! Groetjes, Muriël

user icon DROPS Design 16.02.2021 kl. 15:46:

Nadat je de verhoging hebt gemaakt, ben je ergens halverwege de naald als ik het goed heb. Je kunt dan gewoon afkanten, bijvoorbeeld eerst de ene kant op en daarna de andere kant op.

country flag Muriël Bake 10.02.2021 - 19:30:

Goedenavond, Ik denk dat ik een typefoutje heb ontdekt in het stuk over de Sjaalkraag: "Neem gaan st op middenvoor waar st afgekant zijn". Moet gaan niet geen zijn? Groetjes, Muriël

country flag Synnøve Mollerup Vestlund 03.02.2021 - 00:34:

Hei! Jeg hjalp en venninne med denne oppskriften, og såvidt jeg kan se stemmer det ikke med antall masker når man skal begynne å felle raglan. Når det deles inn i 4 deler og raglan +A1 så er det ikke nok masker samlet. Mvh Synnøve

country flag Martina 18.01.2021 - 12:44:

Salve, ho finito di lavorare l'alzata per il collo, il mio giro termina al centro del ferro, ma come faccio a intrecciare i punti? se lavoro le maglie restanti l'alzata non è più simmetrica.

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 19:13:

Buonasera Martina, a quale parte del lavoro fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

country flag STEVE 05.01.2021 - 19:50:

I am looking for a crochet pattern for a mens sweater with a shawl collar similar to this one DROPS EXTRA 0-1159. Does a pattern for this exist or how can I convert this knit pattern to crochet?

user icon DROPS Design 05.01.2021 kl. 20:14:

Hi Steve, unfortunately there is not such pattern in our offer.

country flag Adlesim 27.12.2020 - 22:27:

Bonjour, en ce qui concerne le col châle ; ,pourriez vous me dire à quel endroit du tricot commence et finit l encolure dos ? merci d'avance de vos précieuses réponses

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 09:58:

Bonjour Mme Adlesim, les mailles de l'encolure dos sont celles qui restent de l'empiècement raglan, après les rangs raccourcis. L'important est bien le nombre de mailles total, relevez vos mailles le long de l'encolure, et si vous n'en avez pas assez/trop, ajustez dès le 1er rang en augmentant/en diminuant pour avoir le bon nombre indiqué (entre 116 et 140 m). Bon tricot!

country flag Adlesim 25.12.2020 - 21:55:

Bonsoir , je ne comprends pas l explication suivante pour les diminutions du raglan devant : "quand il n y a plus suffisamment de mailles à diminuer pour le raglan sur le devant , continuer les diminutions de l encolure au dessus de A.1" que veut dire au dessus de A.1 . s'il n y a plus de mailles après la maille lisière en point mousse , il n'est pas possible de diminuer avant A.1 non plus ? faut il tricoter la maille lisière , puis directement À.1 et diminuer après A.1?

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2021 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Mme Adlesim, les diminutions du raglan vont empiéter les mailles de A.1, autrement dit, lorsque toutes les mailles du devant ont été diminuées pour le raglan, continuez quand même à diminuer, cette fois vous diminuerez les mailles des lignes des raglans (= A.1). Bon tricot!

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