DROPS Extra / 0-1150

Lovely & Blue by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with lace pattern, round yoke and seed st in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no me-087
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color no 14, steel blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

Dec 1 st after 1st and 3rd marker as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st before 2nd and 4th marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Inc 1 st after 1st and 3rd marker as follows: Make 1 YO.
Inc 1 st before 2nd and 4th marker as follows: Make 1 YO.
On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

See diagram A.1. See diagram for correct size.

Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 184-204-224-244-264-284 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm / 2''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while dec 4 sts evenly = 180-200-220-240-260-280 sts. Now work in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'', insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: K 20-20-25-25-30-30 sts (= half back piece), insert 1st marker, K 50-60-60-70-70-80 sts (= side), insert 2nd marker, K 40-40-50-50-60-60 sts (= mid front), insert 3rd marker, K 50-60-60-70-70-80 sts (= side), insert 4th marker, K 20-20-25-25-30-30 sts (= half back piece). Move the markers upwards when working. On next round, dec 1 st at every marker – Read DECREASE TIP = 4 sts dec on needle. NOTE: No of sts mid front and mid back is the same, dec in side sts.

Repeat dec every 8th-8th-8th-6th-6th-8th round 6-7-7-9-8-6 more times = 152-168-188-200-224-252 sts. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4''. On next round, inc 1 st at every marker – Read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 4 sts inc on needle). NOTE: No of sts mid front and mid back is the same, inc in side sts. Repeat inc every 4th-6th-4th-4th-4th-6th round 6-4-6-7-6-5 more times = 180-188-216-232-252-276 sts. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 40-42-42-44-44-46 cm / 15 3/4"-16½"-16½"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-18". Then work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 4-8-3-1-1-3 sts evenly = 176-180-213-231-251-273 sts.

Then bind off for armholes on next round as follows: K 38-39-47-52-57-62 sts, bind off the next 12 sts, K 77-79-96-104-114-126 sts, bind off the next 12 sts and K 37-38-46-51-56-61 sts = 152-156-189-207-227-249 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56-60 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Continue in stockinette st and dec 2-4-2-4-4-6 sts evenly on first round = 46-48-50-52-52-54 sts. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 14-14-14-12-10-8 cm / 5½"-5½"-5½"-4 3/4"-4"-3", inc 1 st on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP-2, repeat inc every 2 cm / 3/4'' 13-14-14-15-16-17 more times = 74-78-80-84-86-90 sts. When piece measures 45-45-45-44-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. bind off 6 sts on each side of marker) = 62-66-68-72-74-78 sts. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off (do not work the sts when slipping them on to the same needle) = 276-288-325-351-375-405 sts. Work diagram A.1(= 12-12-13-13-15-15 sts) 23-24-25-27-25-27 repetitions in width. Continue the pattern like this until 5 rounds remain in diagram = 138-144-150-162-175-189 sts. Continue pattern as before AT THE SAME TIME on last round with K dec 34-36-34-42-51-57 sts evenly = 104-108-116-120-124-132 sts. Switch to a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

Sew the opening under the sleeves.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= K 2 tog
= seed st pattern in diagram does not fit when repeating in the round like this, but seed so does fit over total number of sts, so keep working k above p and p over k

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1150) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Mette 25.07.2020 - 14:35:

Kan jeg strikke blusen uden mønster i bærestykket. Altså glatstrik hele vejen?

DROPS Design 27.07.2020 kl. 15:24:

Hej Mette, Absolut :) Men sørg for at overholde strikkefastheden ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Annie 27.01.2020 - 23:51:

Hvad er forskellen på 2 r sammen og 2 rett sammen?

DROPS Design 28.01.2020 kl. 07:47:

Hei Annie, Det er akkurat det samme. God fornøyelse!

Bea B 13.12.2019 - 09:15:

Danke für die schnelle Antwort! Aber ich muss doch alle 10 Maschen zwei zusammen Stricken? Im Diagramm rechts zusammen. Das würde aber jedes mal rechte Masche, zwei Rechts zusammen, linke Masche ergeben. Soll ich das abwechselnd rechts oder links zusammenstricken, sodass es das Perlmuster ergibt? Oder bereits nach 9 Maschen, damit nicht zwei Rechte Maschen hintereinander kommen?

DROPS Design 13.12.2019 kl. 11:27:

Liebe Bea B, ja Sie müssen 1 Masche in jedem A.1 abnehmen, damit es nur 11 M in jedem A.1 gibt. Diese Abnamhe stricken Sie mit 2 M re zs zwischen 2 linke Maschen vom Perlmuster, dann bei den nächsten Runden stricken Sie Perlmuster in der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Bea B 13.12.2019 - 07:36:

Hallo! ich bin mittlerweile bei der passe und habe ein problem mit dem perlmuster und den zusammengestrickten rechten maschen in zeile 8 des diagramms. ich stricke M. wenn ich zwei maschen rechts zusammenstricke, dann 10 maschen im perlmuster und dann wieder zwei rechts zusammenstricke, stimmt das perlmuster bei mir einfach nicht :( ich habe dann am ende eine rechte masche als 12. im rapport und dann kommt ja wieder zwei rechts zusammenstricken. hier wären es also 2 rechte hintereinander.

DROPS Design 13.12.2019 kl. 09:08:

Liebe Bea B, ja, das Perlmuster des Diagrams geht nicht auf, aber Sie sollen einfach Perlmuster bis zur Ende der Runde stricken, die Maschenanzahl passt dafür in der Runde - siehe Sternchen im Diagram. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Wendy Pilcher Van Der Beek 31.10.2019 - 10:48:

Hello, I’m half way through the pattern in the yoke, when it suddenly occurred to me that I probably should be reading the pattern from right to left, rather than left to right (as I have been doing), is that correct? It doesn’t seem to matter too much although I thought maybe my stitches looked a bit back to front in the zigzag pattern.

DROPS Design 31.10.2019 kl. 23:31:

Dear Wendy, you are right, the diagrams should be read from right to left, when you knit on the round, and on the right side, when you knit back and forth (you need to read from left to right ONLY when you knit back and forth and on the wrong side then). However since this pattern is rather symmetric, there won't be much difference, except that some stitches will sit the opposit way, which again, will not be that visible if you use the pattern this way ALL THE WAY THROUGH. So if you really don't want to undo and reknit the patterned rows, sou whaat is left as you have done before. But watch the directions more carefully next time. Happy Knitting!

Kati Csaba 31.10.2017 - 09:54:

Nella fila 8 di A.1 per taglia L l'ultimo punto dritto corrisponde alla prossima diminuzione nella ripetizione?.

DROPS Design 31.10.2017 kl. 12:43:

Buongiorno Kati. Sì, è corretto. Verifichi di mantenere la giusta sequenza dei punti nella lavorazione della grana di riso. Buon lavoro!

Ingrid 26.01.2017 - 19:51:

Hei! Jeg strikker L og skal begynne på det første perlestrikket på bærestykket. Som stjernen også forklarer går ikke mønsteret opp. Har jeg forstått det riktig at jeg ikke skal strikke to rette masker etter hverandre slik som rapporten viser (siste maske i rapporten er rett, og første i neste rapport er to rett sammen. Lurer da på om jeg skal «hoppe over» siste maske i rapporten slik at det blir annenhver rett/vrang?

DROPS Design 07.02.2017 kl. 14:22:

Hej Ingrid. Ja, du skal bare fortsaette med at strikke vrang over rett og rett over vrang.

Stella Rasmussen 03.01.2017 - 19:16:

Hej jeg bruger str xs og vil ellers gerne lave sådan en :) mon der findes en opskrift til en str xs?

DROPS Design 09.01.2017 kl. 15:19:

Hej Stella. Desvaerre er denne ikke mindre end her. Men du kan tilpasse med hjaelp af strikkefasthed og maalene i maalskitsen. Dvs ved hvor mange m du skal have til maalene i str S. Du kan saa regne ud hvor mange m du skal have til dine maal (str XS).

Kari Bergh 05.12.2016 - 20:24:

Gjelder str. M Jeg får ikke maskeantallet til å stemme på bolen, det er i utgangspunktet 204 masker, så felles det fire. Da blir antall masker 200, så skal man felle 2 masker i siden 7 ganger, da har man 186 masker igjen. I oppskriften står det at man skal ha 168. Regner det for en skrivefeil? Eller er det noe jeg ikke har skjønt?

DROPS Design 06.12.2016 kl. 15:31:

Hej Kari. Du feller 4 m ved hvert merke i alt 8 ganger (Gjenta fellingen på hver 8. omg 7 ganger til): 32 m i alt: 168 m paa p

Joëlle SABINE 01.09.2016 - 14:17:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée à rabatte les 12 mailles pour les emmanchures. je ne sais pas à partir d'où je dois compter les 47 mailles à tricoter (taille L) avant de rabattre ces mailles. Je pense que ces 12 mailles doivent se trouver au milieu des côtés de façon symétrique. Merci.

DROPS Design 01.09.2016 kl. 15:08:

Bonjour Mme Sabine, tricotez les 47 premières m (demi-dos), rabattez les 12 m suivantes, tricotez les 96 m suivantes (= devant), rabattez les 12 m suivantes et tricotez les 46 dernières m (= demi-dos). Les 12 m seront situées de façon symétrique sur les côtés. Bon tricot!

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