DROPS / 157 / 28

Virginia Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with rib and raglan, worked top down in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-505
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-108-116-130 cm / 31½"-34½"-37 3/4"-42½"-45 3/4"-51½"
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''
MEASURE: All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
700-750-800-900-1000-1050 g color no 53, light gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS METAL BUTTONS, NO 542: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Inc on each side of every A.1 by making 1 YO (= 8 inc on row). On next row work YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (applies to body):
Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 2, 1 YO = 2 sts inc. Repeat in the other side. On next row K YOs twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec before marker and 1 st as follows: K 2 tog.
Dec after marker and 1 st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K 2 tog and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from edge at the bottom of body):
SIZE S: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm / 2",5½",9",12½",16",19 3/4",23 1/4"
SIZE M: 5, 15, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm / 2",6",9 3/4",13½",17",20½",24"
SIZE L: 5, 15, 25, 35, 45, 54 and 63 cm / 2",6",9 3/4",13 3/4",17 3/4",21 1/4",24 3/4"
SIZE XL: 5, 15, 25, 35, 45, 55 and 65 cm / 2",6",9 3/4",13 3/4",17 3/4",21½",25½"
SIZE XXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50, 59 and 67 cm / 2",5½",9",12½",16",19 3/4",23 1/4",26½"
SIZE XXXL: 5, 15, 24, 33, 42, 51, 60 and 69 cm / 2",6",9½",13",16½",20",23½",27"

Worked back and forth, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 54-54-58-58-58-58 sts on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. Continue to work rib as follows: P 2, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When rib has been worked for 3 cm / 1'', work 1 row in stockinette st from RS while AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-8-7-7-8-8 sts evenly = 62-62-65-65-66-66 sts. Now work pattern as follows: 5-5-6-6-6-6 sts in stockinette st (= front piece), A.1, 3 sts in stockinette st (= sleeve), A.1, 10-10-11-11-12-12 sts in stockinette st (= back piece), A.1, 3 sts in stockinette st (= sleeve ), A.1, 5-5-6-6-6-6 sts in stockinette st (= front piece). There is now 1 repetition A.1 in each raglan. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue with pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Inc differently on body and sleeves:
Repeat inc every row 0-2-5-8-10-12 times, every other row 4-4-3-4-4-8 times and every 4th row 5-5-5-4-4-2 times.
Repeat inc every row 6-6-7-7-10-11 times, every other row 3-4-4-5-4-4 times and every 4th row 4 times in all sizes.

When all inc are done and piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm / 9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8'', there are 150-162-177-193-210-230 sts in total on needle. Then continue in stockinette st as follows: Work the first 18-20-23-26-28-32 sts, slip the next 39-41-43-45-49-51 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these sts, work the next 36-40-45-51-56-64 sts, slip the next 39-41-43-45-49-51 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 new sts under sleeve, insert a marker in the middle of these sts, work the remaining 18-20-23-26-28-32 sts. Work the new sts under each sleeve in stockinette st.

There are now 88-96-106-118-128-144 sts for body. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the new sts under sleeve, beg inc on each side of markers - READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 8-6½-7-7-9-9 cm / 3"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½"-3½" 3-4-4-4-3-3 more times = 104-116-126-138-144-160 sts. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'' in total, inc 2-2-4-4-2-2 sts = 106-118-130-142-146-162 sts. Now work rib as follows: P 2, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. Continue like this until rib has been worked for 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.
Slip sts back on double pointed needles. Work in stockinette st and cast on 8 new sts at the end of row = 47-49-51-53-57-59 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under the sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Then work in stockinette st in the round – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round 2 more times in all sizes = 41-43-45-47-51-53 sts. Then dec every 4-3½-4-3½-3-3 cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1"-1" 9-10-9-10-12-11 times = 23-23-27-27-27-31 sts. When sleeve measures 42-42-41-41-41-41 cm / 16½"-16½"-16"-16"-16"-16", inc 1 st in all sizes = 24-24-28-28-28-32 sts. Continue with rib as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains, K 1. Continue like this until rib has been worked for 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

Pick up sts for band as follows from RS: Beg at the bottom on right front piece and pick up 86-90-90-94-98-102 sts evenly inside 1 st in stockinette st. Then work rib, beg from WS as follows: 2 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above -, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, P 2, 2 sts in garter st. Continue like this back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS dec for BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above!

Pick up sts and work band the same way as right band but reversed. I.e. pick up sts from neck edge st the top (= from RS). Do not dec for buttonholes.

Sew the holes under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (46)

Lizeth 08.05.2020 - 20:55:

Dank!!! Het kwam dus doordat er staat 'herhaal zoveel keer', alsof de eerste niet meetelt, maar het was dus een 'in totaal' zoveel keer (zoals bij andere patronen vaak wel staat). Ik kan weer verder, merci

Lizeth 06.05.2020 - 01:22:

Goedendag, ik brei maat S en denk een foute berekening te zien bij het meerderen van de raglan, want hoe vaak ik het ook nareken op papier, ik blijf op 158 steken komen i.p.v. op 150 na alle meerderingen. Klopt dit of zie ik toch ergens 8 steken die er niet zijn? ;-) Vriendelijke groet, Lizeth

DROPS Design 07.05.2020 kl. 10:18:

Dag Lizeth,

Je meerdert op het lijf in totaal 9 keer 4 steken (om de naald 4 keer en elke 4e naald 5 keer) = 36 steken, op de mouwen in totaal 13 keer 4 steken ( elke naald 6 keer, om de naald 3 keer en elke 4e naald 4 keer) = 52 steken. 62 + 36 + 52 = 150 steken.

MERETHE LUCIE LIND 06.03.2020 - 13:08:

Trur jeg forklarte meg dårlig, var ikke lengda jeg var ute etter, men bredden på stolpen. Hvor lang skal den være?

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 10:54:

Hei Merete. Du kan strikke slik at bredden på stolpen blir lik vrangborden på halskanten (ca 3 cm). God Fornøyelse!

Merethe Lucie Lind 22.02.2020 - 16:55:

Hvor lang skal knappestolpene være?

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 10:52:

Hei Merethe. Det kommer an på hvilken strørrelse du strikker. Men følg oppskriften under STOLPE og legg opp det antallet som står (i den størrelsen du strikker). For et ca mål kan du ta en titt på målskissen. God Fornøyelse!

Audrey 12.12.2019 - 22:58:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les augmentations : pour l'empiecement il faut tricoter le point fantaisie et en même temps commencer les augmentations. Or il est indiqué : il y a maintenant un motif a1. Dois je faire le motif a1 complet (diagrammme complet)et après commencer les augmentations ou faire les augmentations en même temps que le 1er motif ? Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 13.12.2019 kl. 08:44:

Bonjour Audrey, après les côtes du col, vous augmentez 7 ou 8 m (cf taille), puis vous tricotez comme indiqué, avec 1 fois A.1 à chaque raglan. Au rang suivant sur l'endroit, vous commencez à augmenter sur les devants/le dos et sur les manches, attention, on augmente à un rythme différent (on pourra augmenter 4 ou 8 m par rang). Bon tricot!

Saus 18.07.2019 - 10:42:

Bonjour je commence les augmentations pour le raglan, j ai vérifie et le nombre de mailles au total 177 m pour la taille l ne correspond pas au nombre beaucoup plus élevé que je compte c est a dire plus de 2oo m au total pouvez vous m expliquer ou est mon erreur merci beaucoup bonjour le nombre total de mailles 177 après les augmentations du raglan taille l ne correspond pas au nombre que je compte au moins 2oo m pouvez vous me guider merci

DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 11:00:

Bonjour Mme Saus, en taille L vous commencez avec 65 m et vous augmentez: dos & devant: 5 x 4 m + 3 x 4 m + 5 x 4 m = 52 m - pour les manches vous augmentez: 7 x 4 m + 4 x 4 m + 4 x 4 m = 60 m. Vous avez ainsi: 65+52+60= 177 m. Les augmentations des manches se font à un rythme différent de celles du dos et du devant pour obtenir la forme souhaitée. Bon tricot!

Kathy 30.04.2019 - 19:43:

Here is the rest of my question: for the first row of inc. we inc : 1 back( which would now be 5+1 SS(UNSURE how to inc here as the sleeve is requiring a YO)/ sleeve A1 3SS..so now we would yo on either side of A1/Front A1 10ss..unsure where to inc the 2 stitches here?/Sleeve A1 3ss which would be 1 on either side A1, Back A1 5ss...again unsure how inc as there is already a yo for the sleeve increase. I hope this is not too confusing. I really do appreciate you help.

DROPS Design 02.05.2019 kl. 09:11:

Dear Kathy, increase for raglan before / after A.1 ( see RAGLAN): on very first inc for raglan work: 5 sts in stocking st, inc 1 (front piece), A.1, inc 1, 3 sts in ss, inc 1 (= sleeve), A.1, inc 1, 10 sts in ss, inc 1 (back piece), A.1, inc 1, 5 sts ss (= front piece) = you have increased 8 sts (= 1st inc every orw on body + on sleeves). On next row from WS, you have to inc 8 sts for raglan, work to A.1 (work the YO from previous row twisted), YO, work A.1, YO and work the YO from previous row twisted. Repeat at each A.1 = you have inc 2 times every row on body + on sleeve. Happy knitting!

Kathy 30.04.2019 - 19:36:

Hello, I love your patterns. I am struggling a little with this one though. I have actually charted out all my increases on a piece of paper in hopes that would help me, but I am still confused. I am making size medium( I did read your comments from another person in regards to the increasing for this size, but my apologies I am still unclear)Am I placing markers on my work from the beginning where you indicate ie back 5 ss/sleeve A1 3ss/ sorry..I am going to send you another comment card to as

DROPS Design 02.05.2019 kl. 09:06:

Dear Kathy, in size M the increases for raglan will be made on a different rythm on body and on sleeves: on body: increase 1 st on each front piece + 2 sts on back piece every row 2 times, then every other row (= every RS row) 4 times then every 4th row (= every other row from RS) 5 times. At the same time, increase for sleeves (beg + end of sleeve): every row 6 times, every other row 4 times and every 4th row 4 times. Ie you will increase sometimes only 4 sts for raglan and sometimes 8 sts depending on the row. Happy knitting!

Iben Clausen 29.11.2018 - 08:55:

Når man skal tage ud, er det så kun på retsiden?

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 13:48:

Hei Iben. Ikke nødvendigvis. Når du øker til raglan for eksempel skal du i perioder øke på hver pinne, og dette blir da fra både retten og vrangen. Når du øker på annehver pinne er dette fra retten. God fornøyelse.

Johanna 22.09.2018 - 00:26:

Guten Tag, ich finde die Zunahme sehr schlecht beschrieben und verstehe nicht, in welcher Weise sie geschene soll. Wenn ich richtig zähle, gibt es in manchen Reihen eine ungerade Anzahl von Zunahmen... Stimmt das? Nimmt man manchmal 9 und manchmal 8 M zu? Und an welchen Stellen genau, wenn die Zunahme der Maschen ungerade ist? Wie verteilt sich das? Ich wäre sehr dankbar über eine genaue Beschreibung der Zunahme!

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 11:17:

Liebe Johanna, die Raglanzunahmen sind unterschiedlich je nach der Größe und auf dem Rumpfteil und auf den Ärmeln: Beim Rumpfteil: Sie zuerst in jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihen), dann in jeder 2. Reihe (jeder Hinreihe) und dann jeder 4. Reihe (jeder 2. Hinreihe) = 2 M Rückenteil und 1 M am jeden Vorderteil. Bei den Ärmeln: in jeder Reihe (= Hin sowie Rückreihen), dann in jeder 2. Reihe und dann in jeder 4. Reihe. Die Zunahmen werden vor A.1 (li. Vorderteil, Ende beide Ärmel und Rückenteil) und nach A.1 (Anfang Ärmel, Rückenteil und re. Vorderteil). Siehe RAGLAN. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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