DROPS / 156 / 3

Angel Falls by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress in garter st with rib and raglan, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-742
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-98-106-120-132 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-38½''-41¾''-47¼''-52''
Full length: 78-81-84-88-90-93 cm / 30 3/4"-32"-33"-34½"-35½"-36½"

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color no 50, green

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm /US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - for rib and garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

RAGLAN:
Inc on each side of marker as follows:
Work until 2 sts before 1st marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 3 sts before 2nd marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 2 sts before 3rd marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 3 sts before 4th marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, work the rest of round (= 8 sts inc on round).
On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 sts before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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DRESS:
Worked top down in the round on circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 126-126-132-132-136-136 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Karisma. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on last round in garter st inc 24-24-24-26-26-26 sts evenly on round = 150-150-156-158-162-162 sts. Now work an elevation in the back of neck in garter st as follows: Work 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts, turn, work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn, work 25-25-29-29-33-33 sts, turn, work 30-30-34-34-38-38 sts, turn. Continue like this by working 5 sts more on every turn until 70-70-74-74-78-78 sts are worked. Turn and work back to beg of round. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows from mid back: 21-21-22-23-24-24 sts in stockinette st, insert 1st marker, 34 sts in stockinette st, insert 2nd marker, 41-41-44-45-47-47 sts in stockinette st, insert 3rd marker, 34 sts in stockinette st, insert 4th marker, 20-20-22-22-23-23 sts in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every round 7-12-15-21-27-37 more times, every other round 5-4-4-4-4-3 times and every 3rd round 5-5-5-4-3-1 times = 294-326-356-398-442-498 sts. When all inc are done and piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm / 8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''-10¼'' from shoulder, work as follows: Work 39-43-47-53-59-66 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these 8 sts, work 77-85-94-105-117-131 sts (= front piece), slip the next 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these 8 sts, work the remaining 38-42-47-52-58-65 sts (= half back piece).

BODY:
There are now 170-186-204-226-250-278 sts for body. Now work 1 round in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 30-32-36-40-44-50 sts evenly = 140-154-168-186-206-228 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Then work in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the new sts under sleeves, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side of piece – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-2½-2½-3-3½ cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-1"-1 1/4" 3 more times = 124-138-152-170-190-212 sts on round. When piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7'' from new sts under sleeve, work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-32-38-40-40-48 sts evenly = 150-170-190-210-230-260 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: K 1, P 3, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round until 1 st remains, K 1. When rib has been worked for 7 cm / 2¾'', inc 1 st in every other repetition with P sts (= 15-17-19-21-23-26 sts inc) = 165-187-209-231-253-286 sts. When rib has been worked for 14 cm / 5½'', inc the same way in every repetition with 4 P sts (= 15-17-19-21-23-26 sts inc) = 180-204-228-252-276-312 sts. Continue like this until rib has been worked for 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm / 9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''. On next round switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 30-26-12-8-4-4 sts = 210-230-240-260-280-316 sts. Continue in stockinette st for 19 cm / 7½''. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 3 ridges. Loosely bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work in stockinette st over all sts and cast on 8 sts under sleeve = 78-86-92-102-112-126 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. On first round dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round 7 more times = 62-70-76-86-96-110 sts. Then dec every 5½-3½-3-2-1½-1 cm / 2 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-3/4"-½"-1/4" 7-10-12-16-21-27 times = 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts. When sleeve measures 45-45-44-44-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4" from marker mid under sleeve, switch to needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work in garter st for 8 cm / 3 1/8''. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 156-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (84)

Mireille Reynier 11.11.2019 - 20:46:

Je n'avais jamais fait de raglan et jamais realisé de modèle top down...et pour corser l'affaire, je voulais utiliser les 14 pelotes de fils dont je disposais. Je suis donc partie sur du jacquard ! Heureusement que vos tutoriels sont parfaits. Mais, j'ai beaucoup souffert. Moralité : ne jamais faire du jacquard , mais des rayures avec un modèle top-down et surtout réaliser le modèle avec le fils utilisé dans les explications. MERCI Drops pour vos modèles et vos conseils

Rikke Skovgaard Nysom 31.10.2019 - 15:21:

På ryg/forstykke, er jeg nået hertil : Når arb måler 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm fra de nye m under ærmerne strikkes der glatstrik Samtidig med at der tages 26-32-38-40-40-48 m ud jævnt fordelt = 150-170-190-210-230-260 m. Fortsæt med rib.\r\nHvis man kigger på billedet af kjolen, ville jeg mene man skal strikke ret i stedet for rib ???

Fatima 13.04.2019 - 14:11:

Bonjour, J'ai un problème page 2, partie Empiecement, lignes 15-16, je ne comprends pas 2 tours, 3 tours sur combien de rangs ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse et votre aide.

DROPS Design 16.04.2019 kl. 08:26:

Bonjour Fatima! Les augmentations pour le reglan sont descites en haut de page (on augmente 8 mailles par tour). Par example, dans la taille S on augmente dans 8 tours consecutifs (premiere augmentation decrite dans le modele et encore 7 repetitions> 8x8=64 mailles augmentees), ensuite 5 fois tous les 2 tours (un tour avec augmentations, un tours sans augmentations, etc. = 5x8= 40 mailles augmentees) et enfin 5 fois tous les 3 tours (5x8= 40 mailles augmentees). Comment augmenter ou diminuer alternativement tous les 3 et 4 rangs vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

Lisbeth Flindt Pedersen 06.03.2019 - 14:10:

Hejsa Nu har jeg taget alle udtagninger til raglan. Kan det så passe at jeg stadig mangler ca 11-12 cm inden ærmerne skal sættes på en tråd? Skal man så bare strikke glatstrik hele vejen rundt til man har de 22 cm? Mvh Lisbeth

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 13:55:

Hej Lisbeth, hvis du strikker i DROPS Karisma og har samme strikkefasthed som der står i opskriften, så skal der kun være et par cm tilbage til de 22 cm. Hvis du strikker med et lidt tyndere garn eller hvis du strikker lidt mere fast, så kan du lægge en pind mere til imellem udtagningerne. God fornøjelse!

Nathalie 14.01.2019 - 00:55:

Merel en drops, in de opmerkingen heb ik een antwoord op merels vraag getypt. Ik vind de beschrijving op dat punt ook niet duidelijk. Graag aanpassen! Merci!!

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 10:28:

Dag Nathalie,

Dankjewel voor de uitleg en het doorgeven van de fout; het is nu aangepast!

Nathalie 14.01.2019 - 00:52:

Merel, je moet het zo lezen (andere talen gelezen): voor s eerst 8 nld achter elkaar die 8 raglanmeerderingen doen. Daarna pas om de naald 5x hetzelfde. Daarna elke 3e nld. Voor drops: graag aanpassen dat de verkorte nld in het begin in tricotsteek moeten. Ik heb het nu helaas fout gedaan (volgens patroon) maar las in andere talen dat het patroon niet klopt hier. Jammer dat het dan niet is aangepast IN het patroon. Nu doen anderen het nog niet goed. Bedankt!

Merel 21.12.2018 - 18:30:

Hoi, Er staat: Ga verder in tricotst en begin TEGELIJKERTIJD in de volgende nld met meerderen voor de RAGLAN – zie uitleg boven! Herhaal dit meerderen elke nld nog 7-12-15-21-27-37 keer, elke 2e nld 5-4-4-4-4-3 keer en elke 3e nld 5-5-5-4-3-1 keer = 294-326-356-398-442-498 st Hoe bedoelen ze dit? Ik kom er even niet uit hoe ze op die 326 steken komen..

DROPS Design 22.12.2018 kl. 14:12:

Dag Merel,

Bij elke naald dat je meerdert voor de raglan, meerder je 8 steken in totaal (namelijk aan elke kant van de 4 markeerdraden 1 steek. Voor het gemak neem ik even de kleinste maat: Je meerdert dan 1 keer elke naald en dit herhaal je 7 keer elke naald (dus in totaal 8 keer elke naald), dan 5 keer elke 2e naald en daarna 5 keer elke derde nlaad, dus je meerdert in totaal (8+5+5=)18 keer 8 steken = 144 steken, waarmee je op 294 steken komt (150+144)

Sandra 10.12.2018 - 12:07:

Vielen Dank. Wäre es in diesem Fall nicht besser, man würde am Anfang nicht in jeder Reihe, sondern in jeder 2. Reihe zunehmen? Das wäre dann doch gleichmäßiger.

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 12:31:

Liebe Sandra, die Raglanzunahmen entsehen zuerst in jede Runde, dann in jede 2. Runde dann in jede 3. Runde (= in jeder Runde 22 x , danach in jeder 2. Rd 4 x und danach in jeder 3. Rd 5 x = 356 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sandra 07.12.2018 - 22:07:

Ich bin mit der Raglanzunahme fertig, habe aber nur 15 statt 23 cm (Größe L). Was mache ich nun?

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Sandra, strickekn Sie weiteer bis die Passe 23 cm von der Schulter mist (siehe Maßskizze) - die Passe mist 15 cm von der Anschlagskante + 8 cm Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sylvana Cancian 04.11.2018 - 14:17:

Bonjour Je viens de terminer la robe, très jolie. J'ai juste un petit problème, le point mousse en bas "rebique" vers le haut à la jointure du jersey. Je n'ai pas osé la repasser. Avez-vous un truc ? Merci Sylvana

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Mme Cancian, vous pouvez la bloquer soit en l'humidifiant, soit en la lavant (respectez bien les consignes habituelles) et épinglez la bordure si besoin pour qu'elle reste bien à plat. Bon tricot!

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