DROPS / 148 / 37

Evelyn by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves, lace pattern and fans in ”Delight”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no de-098
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-116-128 cm /
31½''-34½''-37¾''-41¾''-45¾''-50½''
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm /
26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''

Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 06, pink/purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. And 16 sts lace pattern according to A.2 = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – for edges in garter st.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTON NO 534: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.2. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
Diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size) shows the entire bottom part of jacket with fan pattern seen from RS.
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JACKET:
The bottom part of jacket consists of several "fans" knitted together along the way. Beg at the bottom of jacket in the order the fans have been numbered – see A.1 (choose diagram for correct size). Always pick up new sts from RS.

FAN 1A:
Cast on 61 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight and work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3: K 2 tog, K 9, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 6 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 49 sts.
Row 4-7: K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
Row 9-10: K all sts.
Row 11: K 2 tog, K 7, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 37 sts.
Row 12-15: K all sts.
Row 16 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 37 sts.
Row 17-18: K all sts.
Row 19: K 2 tog, K 5, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 29 sts.
Row 20-26: K all sts.
Row 27: K 2 tog, K 3, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 21 sts.
Row 28-29: K all sts.
Row 30 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21 sts.
Row 31-34: K all sts.
Row 35: K 2 tog, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7, K 2 tog = 17 sts.
Row 36-42: K all sts.
Row 43: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 13 sts.
Row 44-48: K all sts.
Row 49: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 9 sts.
Row 50-54: K all sts.
Row 55: K 2 tog, K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1, K 2 tog = 5 sts.
Row 56-58: K all sts.
Row 59: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1 = 3 sts.
Row 60: Knit all sts.
Row 61: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st and fasten.

Work FAN 2A, 3A etc. on 1st row the same way.

HALF FAN IN LEFT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE – FAN 1B:
Cast on 31 sts on needle and work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3: K 2 tog, K 9, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 6 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 25 sts.
Row 4-7: K all sts.
Row 8 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts.
Row 9-10: K all sts.
Row 11: K 2 tog, K 7, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 19 sts.
Row 12-15: K all sts.
Row 16 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 19 sts.
Row 17-18: K all sts.
Row 19: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 15 sts.
Row 20-26: K all sts.
Row 27: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 11 sts.
Row 28-29: K all sts.
Row 30 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 11 sts.
Row 31-34: K all sts.
Row 35: K 2 tog, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 9 sts.
Row 36-42: K all sts.
Row 43: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 7 sts.
Row 44-48: K all sts.
Row 49: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 5 sts.
Row 50-54: K all sts.
Row 55: K 2 tog, K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 3 sts.
Row 56-60: K all sts.
Row 61: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st and fasten.

HALF FAN IN RIGHT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE – FAN 2B:
Cast on 31 sts and work as fan 1B but reversed, i.e. on 3rd-11th-27th-35th-43rd-49th-55th and 61th row read the sentence backwards but beg with K 2 tog and finish with slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso – For example work 3rd row as follows: K 2 tog, * K 6, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, K 9, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 25 sts.
First row with fans has now been worked.

FAN 1C:
Pick up 30 sts along the left edge of FAN 2B (seen from RS) – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge (= 2 rows K) and approx. 1 st in every row with holes, and then pick up 31 sts along the right edge of FAN 1A (seen from RS) = 61 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 1A but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

Work FAN 2C, 3C, 4C etc. on 2nd row the same way – see placement in diagram A.1 (remember correct diagram for your size).
Second row with fans has now been worked.

Work FAN 1D, 2D, 3D etc. on 3rd row the same way - see placement in diagram A.1 but when knitting up sts, do as follows (example explains fan 1D): Pick up 30 sts along the left edge on FAN 1C (seen from RS), pick up 1 st at the tip at the top on FAN 1A and pick up 30 sts along the right edge on FAN 2C (seen from RS) = 61 sts.

FAN 1E:
Pick up 30 sts along the left edge (seen from RS) on last fan on 2nd row, knit in addition up 1 st at the tip at the top of FAN 1B = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 1B but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

FAN 2E:
Pick up 1 st at the tip at the top on FAN 2B, then pick up 30 sts along the right edge on FAN 1C (seen from RS) = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 2B but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).
Third row with fans has now been worked.

FAN 1F:
Pick up 30 sts along the left edge on FAN 2E (seen from RS), pick up 1 st at the tip at the top on FAN 1C and pick up 30 sts along the right edge on FAN 1D (seen from RS) = 61 sts. Then work as FAN 1A but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

Work FAN 2F, 3F, 4F etc. the same way – see placement in diagram A.1.
Fourth row with fans has now been worked.

Now work a finishing edge with half circles to even out the line at the top – pick up for yoke along this edge later.

HALF CIRCLE BETWEEN EVERY FAN (FAN 1G, 2G, 3G, etc.):
Pick up from RS 61 sts along the edge between 2 fans – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge and approx. 1 st in every row with holes + 1 st between two fans at the tip at the top of fan from the row below.
Then work as follows:

Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 3: Knit all sts.
Row 4: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 49 sts.
Row 5: K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
Row 6: Knit all sts.
Row 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
Row 8-14: K all sts.
Row 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
Row 16-17: K all sts.
Row 18: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 25 sts.
Row 19-25: K all sts.
Row 26: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 13 sts.
Row 27: Knit all sts.
Row 28: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 7 sts.
Row 29: Knit all sts.
Row 30: K2 tog until 1 st remains on row, finish with K 1 = 4 sts.
Row 31: Knit all sts.
Row 32: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 3 tog and psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st and fasten.

HALF CIRCLE AT THE EDGE IN LEFT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE – FAN 1H:
Pick up 30 sts along the left edge (seen from RS) on last fan on 4th row, knit in addition up 1 st at the tip at the top of FAN 1E = 31 sts on needle. Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 3: Knit all sts.
Row 4: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 25 sts.
Row 5: K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts.
Row 6: Knit all sts.
Row 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts.
Row 8-14: K all sts.
Row 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 sts.
Row 16-17: K all sts.
Row 18: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 13 sts.
Row 19-25: K all sts.
Row 26: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 7 sts.
Row 27-29: K all sts.
Row 30: K 2 tog until 1 st remains on row, finish with K 1 = 4 sts.
Row 31: Knit all sts.
Row 32: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 3 tog and psso = 1 st. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st and fasten.

HALF CIRCLE AT THE EDGE IN RIGHT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE – FAN 2H:
Pick up 1 st at the tip at the top on FAN 2E, then pick up 30 sts along the right edge on FAN 1F (seen from RS) = 31 sts on needle. Then work as FAN 1H.

Fifth and last row with fans and half circles has now been worked.
Jacket now measures approx. 93-93-111-111-130-130 cm / 36½"-36½"-43 3/4"-43 3/4"-51½"-51½" along the straight edge at the top and approx. 38 cm / 15'' from bottom edge and up on the longest.

YOKE:
Pick up from RS 194-194-236-236-274-274 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Delight, along the straight edge at the top of piece with fans - pick up approx. 1 st in every st (if more or fewer sts have been picked up, inc/dec to correct no of sts on 1st row from WS).
K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 26-10-34-14-30-6 sts evenly = 168-184-202-222-244-268 sts. Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle - see explanation above, until 2-4-6-6-6-6 ridges in total have been worked after fans (piece now measures approx. 39-40-41-41-41-41 cm / 15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8" from bottom edge on the longest). K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 38-44-48-52-58-64 sts evenly = 130-140-154-170-186-204 sts. P 1 row from WS. Insert 1 marker 33-35-39-43-47-51 sts in from each side (= 64-70-76-84-92-102 sts between markers on back piece).
Now divide the piece at both markers and work front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 64-70-76-84-92-102 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (1st row = RS) while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row casting on 1 new st in each side (= edge st for seam) = 66-72-78-86-94-104 sts (work edge st in garter st). On next row from RS, beg inc for sleeves and cast on 2 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows.
Repeat inc with 2 sts at the end of every row in each side 3 more times (= 4 inc in total in each side), then cast on 20-20-20-18-18-16 sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 122-128-134-138-146-152 sts – NOTE: Work the inc sts in the pattern.
After last inc continue pattern as before but work the outermost 5 sts in each side in garter st (= sleeve edges).
When piece measures 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½" from marker where piece was divided, slip sts at beg of every row in each side on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder as follows: Slip 5 sts on to holder 3 times in total (work sts before slipping them on holder to avoid cutting the thread) and slip 33-35-37-39-43-45 sts on to holder 1 time in each side – NOTE: Slip 1st st on left needle after the sts that have been slipped on 1 stitch holder, tighten yarn, and continue to work. This is done to avoid big holes in the transitions.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25-26-27-29-31-33 cm / 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13" from where piece was divided, bind off the middle 22-24-26-26-26-28 sts for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately.
Then bind off 2 sts on next row from neck.
When all sts have been bind off for neck and slipped on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder, piece measures approx. 27-28-29-31-33-35 cm / 10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4" from marker where piece was divided and up to shoulder on the longest and approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' from bottom edge on the longest.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-39-43-47-51 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (1st row = RS) with 1 edge st in garter st in each side while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row casting on 1 new st at the end of row towards the side (= edge st for seam) = 34-36-40-44-48-52 sts.
On next row from RS beg inc for sleeve and cast on new sts at the end of every row from RS as on back piece = 62-64-68-70-74-76 sts.
Continue pattern as before with 1 edge st in garter st towards mid front and 5 edge sts in garter st towards the side (= sleeve edge).
When piece measures 21-22-23-24-26-28 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½"-10 1/4"-11" from marker where piece was divided (jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-65-67-69 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'' from bottom edge on the longest), slip the outermost 6-6-8-8-8-8 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck (work the sts before slipping them on the stitch holder).
Continue to bind off for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½" – adjust according to back piece, slip sts on 1 stitch holder for diagonal shoulder from the side as on back piece.
When all sts have been bind off for neck and slipped on 1 stitch holder, piece measures approx. 27-28-29-31-33-35 cm / 10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4" from marker where piece was divided and up to shoulder and approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm / 26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30'' from bottom edge on the longest.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right but reversed, i.e. work 1st row from RS but cast on 1 new st at beg of 1st row (instead of end of 1st row = edge st for seam). And cast on new sts for sleeve at the end of every row from WS (instead of every row from RS).

ASSEMBLY:
Slip the 48-50-52-54-58-60 sts from stitch holder on one shoulder on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows: K 1 row from RS - NOTE: To avoid holes in every transition where sts were slipped on stitch holder, pick up the thread between the 2 sts in the transition and K tog with 1st st on left needle.
On next row loosely bind off all sts with K from WS. Repeat the same way along the 3 other shoulders.
Sew shoulder seams inside bind off edge - make sure the seam is not tight. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

LEFT BAND:
Cast on 5 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Delight.
K 1 row (= RS) and turn piece. Work next row as follows (from WS): Pick up the outermost st in garter st at the neck line on left front piece (with WS towards you), work first st on left needle, pass the new st from left front piece over this st and K the rest of row, turn piece, K 1 row over all sts, turn piece.
Then work as follows: * Pick up next st in garter st at the edge of left front piece (with WS towards you), work first st on left needle, pass the new st over and K the rest of row, turn piece, K 1 row over all sts, turn piece *, repeat these 2 rows from *-* until 1 st has been picked up in approx. every st in garter st along the entire front edge on jacket.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as left but beg at the bottom of right front piece (with WS towards you). Dec in addition for 3-3-3-3-4-4 buttonholes on right band (dec for last buttonhole on neck edge).
1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Place bottom buttonhole in the transition between fans and lace pattern and upper buttonhole approx. 7-7-8-8-7-7 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" from neck line. Distribute the 1-1-1-1-2-2 remaining buttonholes evenly between upper and bottom buttonhole.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 94 to 116 sts around the neck (including sts on stitch holders at the front and also pick up sts over bands) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Delight. Work in GARTER ST back and forth on needle.
When 2 ridges have been worked, dec for last buttonhole over the other buttonholes on right band.
Continue to work until neck edge measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' and then loosely bind off with K from WS.
Sew the buttons on to left front piece.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.03.2013
HALF FAN IN RIGHT SIDE OF FRONT PIECE – FAN 2B:
Cast on 31 sts and work as fan 1B but reversed (i.e. on 3rd-11th-19th-27th-35th-43rd-49th-55th and 61th row read the sentence backwards.....

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 148-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (83)

Stephanie 20.03.2017 - 11:43:

Bonjour il est dit pour 'biaiser les épaules glisser 3 fois 5 m en attente et glisser 1 fois 33-35-37-39-43-45 m de chaque côté en attente' puis lors de l'assemblage, de 'Reprendre les 48-50-52-54-58-60 m d'une épaule ...' . quel est l’intérêt de 'diviser' la mise en attente si c'est pour reprendre au total les 48-50-52-54-58-60 m d'une épaule , pourquoi ne pas avoir mis directement 48-50-52-54-58-60 m en attente ?

DROPS Design 20.03.2017 kl. 13:27:

Bonjour Stéphanie, on forme le biais de l'épaule en tricotant des rangs raccourcis puis on tricote ensuite 1 rang endroit sur toutes les mailles et on rabat sur l'envers (cf assemblage), vous pouvez faire ceci à la fin de chaque épaule si vous ne voulez pas mettre les mailles en attente, au choix. Bon tricot!

Stephanie 01.03.2017 - 09:33:

Ok, mais si je regarde la suite, ces 37 m je suis sensé les mettre en attente pour biaiser les manches et donc il ne me reste plus de maille pour continuer mon epaule

DROPS Design 01.03.2017 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Stéphanie, les 37 m en attente sont les mêmes que celles que vous avez pour le dos + les 3 x 5 m mises en attente = 52 m comme pour chaque épaule/manche du dos, ces 52 m de chaque épaule seront ensuite reprises l'une après l'autre, cf ASSEMBLAGE. Bon tricot!

Stéphanie 28.02.2017 - 20:20:

Bonjour, Je fait actuellement le devant droit du gilet. Après les augmentations j'ai bien mes 68 m ( L). A 23 cm je dois glisser 8m en attente (Reste 60m). Ensuite je dois rabattre pour l'encolure 3 fois 2m et 2 fois 1m. Faut-il faire ça à chaque rang, ou le premier rang 2 m puis le rang suivant 2 m etc. De plus faut-il biaiser les épaules comme le dos c'est à dire 3 * 5 mailles + 37 m, ça ne fait plus beaucoup de m arrivé en haut de l'épaule . Merci pour les infos.

DROPS Design 01.03.2017 kl. 08:38:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous avez 68 m, mettez 8 m en attente pour l'encolure et rabattez pour l'encolure (3 x 2 m + 2 x 1 m = 8 m), il reste 52 m. Pour l'épaule, mettez en attente 3 x 5 m = 15 m. Il reste 52-15 = 37 m pour l'épaule.

Stéphanie 01.12.2016 - 12:08:

Bonjour, il est écrit "Tricoter maintenant une bordure de finitions composée de demi-cercles pour que cette bordure soit droite – on relève ensuite les mailles de l'empiècement le long de cette bordure." Est-il possible d'avoir plus d'infos ou peut-être une video de cette bordure de finitions composée de demi-cercles ? Merci.

DROPS Design 01.12.2016 kl. 13:09:

Bonjour Stéphanie, ces demi-cercles sont décrits juste en dessous cette phrase soit pour les demi-cercles 1G,2G,3G, etc + demi-cercle 1H + 2 H. Suivez bien les explications écrites en même temps que la position de chacun de ces demi-cercles sur le schéma. Bon tricot!

Sylvia Karlsson 28.01.2016 - 09:23:

Fråga. Jag förstår inte hur jag skall sticka ihop solfjädrarna visa hu jag skall göra Tack

DROPS Design 09.03.2016 kl. 15:37:

Hej Sylvia, Jo det gør du ved at følge VIFTE 1C. God fornøjelse!

Angelica 04.04.2014 - 12:41:

Jag fattar inte. Ska jag bara lägga upp 5 maskor på framst? Det blir ju jättekonstigt. 5 maskor på 21cm? Är det något som är fel?

DROPS Design 08.04.2014 kl. 09:51:

Hur långt har du kommit i beskrivningen? Det är bara på kanten du stickar på till sist, att du skall lägga upp 5 m, som du stickar ihop med framst.

Angelica 04.04.2014 - 12:40:

Jag fattar inte. Ska jag bara lägga upp 5 maskor på framst? Det blir ju jättekonstigt. 5 maskor på 21cm? Är det något som är fel?

DROPS Design 08.04.2014 kl. 13:17:

Hej Angelica. Dette er et ret langt mönster, saa kan du sige hvor du praecis er i mönstret, saa skal jeg pröve at hjaelpe dig videre. Tak ;-)

Roz 10.04.2013 - 08:03:

زیباوجالب: اماسخت برای بافتن

Ilvajoh 15.03.2013 - 10:42:

Dank je wel, weer wat geleerd!

Ilvajoh 12.03.2013 - 10:28:

Hallo, een vraagje over de schoudernaad: "zet 5 steken op een hulpnaald doe dit 3 keer maar brei de steken eerst om de draad niet te hoeven knippen zet daarna 35 steken op een hulpnaald dan afkanten voor de hals" waarom kan ik de 50 steken niet in een keer op een hulpnaald zetten nadat ik ze heb gebreid??? Alvast bedankt.

DROPS Design 15.03.2013 kl. 09:19:

Omdat u zo een schuine schouder/mouw krijgt. U zet 5 st op een hulpdraad, breit heen en weer, zet weer 5 st op een hulpdraad, breit heen en weer... enz. Zo wordt de zijkant minder hoog.

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