DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Skagen

Knitted DROPS top down jumper with raglan in “Fabel”, “Kid Silk” and “Glitter”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 148-17
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-228
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-98-106-116-128-140 cm /
35½''-38½''-41¾''-45¾''-50 3/8''-55''
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm /
27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Color no 340, blue lagoon:
200-200-250-250-300-300 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 01, off white: 100-100-125-125-150-150 g
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
Color no 02, silver: 20 g (2 spools) for all sizes

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5.5 mm / US 9 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (80 cm / 32'') - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Glitter
DROPS Glitter
60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.70 $ /10g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Back and forth on needle: Inc 1 st from RS by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted.
In the round on needle: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round K YO twisted.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2 (marker is between these sts), K the next 2 tog.
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RAGLAN:
The piece is worked from the neck and down. First work back and forth until front piece has been cast on, then work in the round. Cast on 48-50-52-52-52-58 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 1 strand of each yarn.
ROW 1 (= WS): P all sts. Insert 1 marker 8-8-8-8-6-6 sts in from each side (= 8-8-8-8-6-6 sts on sleeve in each side, 32-34-36-36-40-46 sts on back piece between markers). Move the markers upwards when working.
ROW 2 (= RS): K 2, * inc 1 st - READ INCREASE TIP, K until 2 sts remain before next marker, inc 1 st, K 4 (marker is between these sts), inc 1 st, K until 2 sts remain before next marker, inc 1 st, K 4 (marker is between these sts), inc 1 st *, K until 2 sts remain, inc 1 st, K 2 = 6 inc sts. Now cast on 4 sts on needle for front piece = 58-60-62-62-62-68 sts on needle.
ROW 3: P all sts, at the end of row cast on 4 sts = 62-64-66-66-66-72 sts. Insert 1 new marker 4 sts in from each side (= 4 sts on front piece in each side, 4 markers in total in piece).
ROW 4: K 6, (1st marker is after the first 4 sts), repeat from *-* on 2nd row, K until 2 sts remain before last marker, inc 1 st, K 6 (last marker is before the last 4 sts) = 6 inc sts. Cast on 4 sts = 72-74-76-76-76-82 sts on needle.
ROW 5: P all sts, at the end of row cast on 4 sts = 76-78-80-80-80-86 sts (= 8 sts on front piece in each side).
ROW 6: K 10, (1st marker is after the first 8 sts), repeat from *-* on 2nd row, K until 2 sts remain before last marker, inc 1 st, K 10 = 6 inc sts (last marker is before the last 8 sts). Cast on 11-12-13-13-15-18 sts = 93-96-99-99-101-110 sts on needle.
ROW 7: P all sts, at the end of row cast on 11-12-13-13-15-18 sts = 104-108-112-112-116-128 sts on needle (= 19-20-21-21-23-26 sts on front piece in each side, 38-40-42-42-46-52 sts on back piece and 14-14-14-14-12-12 sts on each sleeve). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Then work the piece in the round on needle as follows:
ROUND 1: * K until 2 sts remain before next marker, inc 1 st, K 4 (marker is between these sts), inc 1 st *, repeat from *-* 3 more times (= 4 times in total), K the remaining sts = 8 inc sts.
ROUND 2: K all sts.
Then inc 8 sts on round the same way - i.e. inc 1 st on each side of every marker - every other round 10-11-12-17-20-21 more times (11-12-13-18-21-22 inc in total on front piece), then every 4th round 3-3-3-1-0-0 times in total.
When all inc are done, there are 216-228-240-264-284-304 sts on needle (= 66-70-74-80-88-96 sts on front and back piece, 42-44-46-52-54-56 sts on each sleeve). NOTE! Insert 1 marker in the middle of front piece (marks front piece which has shorter raglan).

BODY:
Worked in the round. Work next round as follows: Work 66-70-74-80-88-96 sts on front piece, * slip the next 42-44-46-52-54-56 sts (= sleeve) on 1 stitch holder, cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16 sts for armhole *, work the next 66-70-74-80-88-96 sts on back piece, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 144-156-168-184-204-224 sts on needle.
Then work in stockinette st over all sts. NOTE: Insert 1 new marker mid under left armhole, i.e. between the 6-8-10-12-14-16 new sts for armhole (= beg of round), insert 1 new marker mid under right armhole, i.e. between the 6-8-10-12-14-16 new sts for armhole (= the side) = 72-78-84-92-102-112 sts between markers. Move the markers upwards when working.
Continue in the round in stockinette st.
When piece measures 52-54-55-57-58-60 cm / 20½"-21 1/4"-21 5/8"-22½"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" in total vertically (measured on back piece), insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 22-28-28-36-38-46 sts on front piece.
Then work back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): Work until 1st marker before the middle sts on front piece, slip the next 22-28-28-36-38-46 sts on 1 stitch holder, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): P all sts on needle.
Row 3: K until 3 sts remain on needle, slip the last 3 sts on stitch holder, turn piece.
Row 4: P until 3 sts remain on needle, slip the last 3 sts on stitch holder, turn piece.
Then slip sts at the end of every row on stitch holder the same way as follows: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-3-4 more times (1-1-2-2-4-5 times in total), 2 sts 10-10-10-10-9-8 times in total = 2 sts remain before each marker in the side.
Now slip all sts on stitch holder on to same circular needle = 144-156-168-184-204-224 sts on needle as before.
Then work in the round until finished measurements. On next round switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and K while AT THE SAME TIME inc 36-40-44-48-52-56 sts evenly on round = 180-196-212-232-256-280 sts.
Then work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
When rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', loosely bind off with K over K and P over P, piece measures approx. 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½ in total.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9. Cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 sts on double pointed needles with 1 strand of each yarn, pick up 42-44-46-52-54-56 sts on stitch holder from one sleeve, cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 sts on double pointed needles = 48-52-56-64-68-72 sts in total (= 6-8-10-12-14-16 sts for armhole). Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). NOTE: Now measure the piece from here.
Then work in stockinette st in the round for 3 cm / 1 1/8''. On next round dec 1 st - READ DECREASE TIP - on each side of marker.
Repeat dec every 5½-5-4-2½-2½-2 cm / 2 1/4"-2"-1½"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" 6-7-8-12-13-14 more times (7-8-9-13-14-15 times in total) = 34-36-38-38-40-42 sts. Continue in stockinette st until piece measures 40-39-39-38-38-37 cm / 15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15"-14½".
On next round switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and K while AT THE SAME TIME inc 10-8-10-10-12-10 sts evenly on round = 44-44-48-48-52-52 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
When rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', loosely bind off with K over K and P over P, piece measures approx. 46-45-45-44-44-43 cm / 18"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. Beg at transition between back piece and left sleeve, pick up from RS approx. 90 to 110 sts around the entire neck edge with 1 strand of each yarn.
K next round - while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 80-88-92-96-100-108.
Continue to work rib as follows: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round.
When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', loosely bind off all sts with K over K and P over P.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Skagen

Bettina, Denmark

Skagen

Bettina, Denmark

Skagen

Dominique, France

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Rene Gould wrote:

I don't like knitting with dpn is there any way I can stick to two needles

13.09.2020 - 00:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rene, you can convert the pattern for using straight needles. You can find our lesson that will explain how to do it HERE . I hope that helps. Happy Knitting!

13.09.2020 - 23:16

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Dear Drops Team, I wanted to knit this model with Fabel and Brushed Alpaca Silk, but whan I work on the sample I see that the Brushed Alpaca Silk is making the project very "furry" it takes a bit over the Fabel which is less visible (almost not at all actually- the color is lost). Is my feeling correct, is Brushed Alpaca Silk, that diffrent to Kid Silk, or is it just impression that will pass when the project is bigger? Best

15.01.2020 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Agnieszka, Brushed Alpaca Silk belongs to yarn group C while kid-Silk belongs to yarn group A (just as Fabel), so that you won't have same tension working with Fabel and Brushed Alpaca Silk (= A+C) or when workign with Fabel and Kid-Silk (A+A) and the Fabel colour will then automatically look different. Your DROPS store can provide you any further assistance choosing the best matching yarn, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

15.01.2020 - 09:57

country flag Erika wrote:

¿Como hago este patrón solo con dos agujas en vez de con agujas circulares? Muchas gracias

01.09.2019 - 03:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Erika! Tienes que ver la leccion DROPS Puedo adaptar un patrón para agujas circulares y tejerlo con agujas rectas? Buen trabajo!

02.09.2019 - 17:17

country flag Agnieszka wrote:

Dzień dobry Gdybym chciała zrobić ten sweter tylko z włóczki Fabel, używając 2 nici, to ile będę potrzebować na rozmiar S? Pozdrawiam

08.10.2018 - 07:35

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Agnieszko! Jeśli chcesz wykonać ten sweter podwójną nitką włóczki Fabel, w rozmiarze S będziesz potrzebować 400 g tej włóczki. Miłej pracy!

08.10.2018 - 19:39

country flag Winnie wrote:

Hej, jeg vil gerne strikke denne. Jeg har en masse Baby Merino. Kan jeg bruge det? Kan jeg strikke med dobbelt garn? Har prøvet at lave en strikkeprøve med dbl. garn og p.7, det gav den brede og højde som er anbefalet på garnet. på forhånd tak :-)

24.10.2017 - 10:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Winnie. Garnet som er brukt i 148-17 er DROPS Fabel og DROPS Kid-Silk, begge disse kvalitetene tilhører garngruppe A, den same garngruppen som DROPS Baby Merino. Så ja, du kan bruke 2 tråder DROPS Baby Merino istedenfor DROPS Fabel og DROPS Kid-Silk. Bare husk å omregne hvor mye DROPS Baby Merino du trenger ut fra den garnmengden som er oppgitt i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

24.10.2017 - 13:05

country flag Åse Johansson wrote:

I slutet står det "byt till stickor 5 och öka samtidigt x maskor för att sticka resår" Varför öka? I de flesta beskrivningar brukar man minska för resåren. Kan ni förklara?

09.08.2017 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Åse. I tidligere/gamle oppskrifter var nok motebildet litt annerledes og man ønsket en stram vrangbord. Når man nå strikker et plagg der det økes på vrangborden, vil vrangborden trekke seg sammen naturlig og det vil bli penest, mener vi.

09.08.2017 - 10:53

country flag Frid wrote:

Oppskrift "Skagen", Modell nr fa-228: På slutten av 2. pinne står det "Nå legges det opp 4 m på p til forsk". Skal man legge det opp på slutten av pinnen? Skjønner ikke.

05.12.2016 - 20:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Frid. Du strikker frem og tilbage, saa naar du er faerdig med 2. p, vender du og legger de 4 m op i starten af p. Saa strikker du 3. p og naar du er faerdig med den legger du 4 m op igen, denne gang i den anden ende af p.

06.12.2016 - 15:21

country flag Anna Maria wrote:

Non riesco a capire come vanno inseriti i segnapunti nel ferro3,grazie.

07.12.2015 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna Maria. Quando ha finito il ferro 3, inserisce due nuovi segnapunti: uno dopo le prime 4 m, l’altro prima delle ultime 4 m. Lascia nella stessa posizione gli altri 2 segnapunti già presenti. In tutto deve avere 4 segnapunti. Buon lavoro!

07.12.2015 - 16:27

country flag Huguenet wrote:

Bonjour, pour le drops 148-17 pouvez_vous m'expliquer en détail le rang 2 et 3 pour la position des marqueurs Dans l'attente de votre reponse Salutations

30.07.2015 - 16:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Huguenet, les marqueurs sont placés au 1er rang, où on tricote à l'env sur l'envers en plaçant 1 marqueur à 8-8-8-8-6-6 m de chaque côté (on a ainsi 32-34-36-36-40-46 m entre les marqueurs pour le dos). Pour les rangs 2 et 3 voir réponse précédente ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

30.07.2015 - 16:19

country flag Huguenet wrote:

Je voudrais tricoter le pull drops design modele n fa -228 skagen mais impossible de comprendre le rang n 2 et 3 concernant comment faire les augmentations et à quel endroit du rang Dans l'attente de votre réponse . Salutations

26.07.2015 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Huguenet, tricotez le rang 2 ainsi (sur l'endroit): 2 m end, *1 jeté (= 1 augm.), tricotez à l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m avant le marqueur suivant, 1 jeté, 2 m end, marqueur, 2 m end, 1 jeté, continuez à l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m avant le marqueur suivant, 1 jeté, 2 m end, marqueur, 2 m end, 1 jeté* tricotez à l'end jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 m, 1 jeté, 2 m end = 6 augm. Montez 4 m. Au rang 3, tricotez toutes les mailles à l'env (les jetés torse à l'env) et montez 4 m à la fin du rang). Bon tricot!

27.07.2015 - 17:52