DROPS Extra / 0-851

Celtic Ballad by DROPS Design

Men's knitted sweater in DROPS Lima or DROPS Merino Extra Fine with raglan and double seed st. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no LI-015
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-100-108-118-128-142 cm / 36 1/4"-39½"-42½"-46½"-50½"-55 3/4"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-800-900 g color no 0100, off white

Or use:
DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-800-900 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show pattern from RS.

From RS:
Beg 3 sts before marker: P 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), P 2 twisted tog.

From WS:
Beg 3 sts before marker: K 2 twisted tog, P 2 (marker is between these 2 sts), K 2 tog.

If knitting gauge is incorrect in height and the knitting is too tight, the raglan dec will be too short and the armholes too small. This can be adjusted by working 1 extra row without dec evenly spaced between dec.

Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up. Cast on 232-252-272-296-320-360 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lima. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K next round – AT THE SAME TIME dec 48-52-56-60-64-72 sts evenly = 184-200-216-236-256-288 sts. Continue in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Insert a marker in each side = 92-100-108-118-128-144 sts between markers. When piece measures 6 cm / 2½'', inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' and 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm / 9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8'' = 196-212-228-248-268-300 sts. When piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm / 10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼'', work according to A.1, when A.1 has been worked one time vertically, work according to A.2. Work A.2 for 10 cm / 4'', then work A.1 one time. Continue with A.2. When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', bind off 4 sts on each side of every marker = 90-98-106-116-126-142 sts on front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 68-68-72-72-76-76 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lima. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K next round – AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-12-14-12-14-12 sts evenly = 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 11-8-7-6-4-3½ cm / 4½"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-1½"-1 1/4", 4-5-6-7-10-11 more times = 64-68-72-76-84-88 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-37-36-36-35-35 cm / 14½"-14½"-14 1/4"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4", work according to A.1, when A.1 has been worked one time vertically, work according to A.2. Work A.2 for 10 cm / 4'', then work A.1 one time. Continue with A-2 - work the inc sts in pattern. When piece measures 55-55-54-54-53-53 cm / 21 5/8"-21 5/8"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21"-21" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulder width), adjust so that you are on same round in A.2 as on body, bind off 4 sts on each side of marker = 56-60-64-68-76-80 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 292-316-340-368-404-444 sts. Continue with A.2, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm / 18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20'', beg dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above and READ KNITTING TIP. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). 1st marker = in transition between left sleeve and front piece.
Dec differently on body and on sleeves.
Dec as follows after 2nd and 4th marker and before 3rd and 1st marker (= dec on sleeves)
Dec every 4 rows: 7-7-6-6-4-2 times and then every other row: 12-14-17-19-25-29 times.
Dec as follows after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker (= dec on front and back piece).
Dec every other row: 24-24-25-25-25-22 times and then every row: 3-5-6-9-12-21 times.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8'', bind off the middle 10-14-18-22-26-30 sts on front piece and then work back and forth on needle. Continue with pattern and Raglan - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for neck in each side every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times. After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 82-86-90-94-98-102 sts remain on needle. K 1 row while at the same time dec 12-14-16-18-20-22 sts evenly = 70-72-74-76-78-80 sts.

Worked in the round. Pick up 54-56-58-60-62-64 sts around the neck on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 124-128-132-136-140-144 sts on needle. K 2 rounds and P 2 rounds , then work rib K 2/P 2. Continue like this and loosely bind off with K over K and P over P when rib measures 3.5 cm / 1 1/4" (in total including the first 4 rounds).

Sew the openings under the sleeves tog.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-851) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (126)

Mimi 24.11.2020 - 17:36:

Ouf, voilà enfin le pourquoi je dois encore refaire. Ce qui me manquait c'était le en même temps. Donc merci beaucoup et en avant le bon raglan.

Mimi 24.11.2020 - 15:29:

Bonjour, décidément je me fais des noeuds au cerveau....j’ai bien compris que l’on diminue 7 fois puis 14 fois pour les manches mais est-ce qu’il faut diminuer en même temps les 24 puis 5 des devant et dos biensur en respectant les nombres de rangs..

DROPS Design 24.11.2020 kl. 16:34:

Bonjour Mimi, tout à fait, vous devez diminuer en même temps pour les manches et le dos/le devant, mais pas au même rythme, vous diminuerez parfois 8 m (dos, devant et manches) parfois seulement 4 m (= dos et devant seulement par ex.). Bon tricot!

Mimi 23.11.2020 - 16:52:

Bonjour, la taille tricotée est M, j’en ai pourtant tricoté des dizaines mais là je bute sur le raglan a la vue des explications ,j’ai déjà défait 3 fois... ou le résultat est trop grand en largeur ou en hauteur...il y a un truc qui m’echappe... Je vous remercie de bien vouloir m’éclairer.

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 18:13:

Bonjour Mimi! On diminue différemment pour le dos/devant que pour les manches. Diminuer après le 2ème et le 4ème marqueur et avant le 3ème et le 1er marqueur (= sur les manches, 4 mailles diminuees a chaque tour avec diminutions)): dim 7 fois tous les 4 rangs et 14 fois tous les 2 rangs ((4 mailles x7 fois )+(4 mailles x14 fois)= 28+56= 84 mailles diminuees au total)). Diminuer après le 1er et le 3ème marqueur et avant le 2ème et le 4ème marqueur (= devant et dos, 4 mailles diminuees a chaque tour avec diminutions): dim 24 fois tous les 2 rangs et 5 fois tous les rangs ((4x24)+(4x5)=96+20=116). Il nous reste: 316-84-116= 116 mailles. Bon tricot!

Mimi 18.11.2020 - 16:27:

Bonjour’ je n’arrive Pas à interpréter les diminutions du raglan je me trouve à l’encolure avec encore 200 mailles.Y.a sûrement un truc que j’interprete Mal.Merci de bien vouloir m.aider.

DROPS Design 18.11.2020 kl. 17:18:

Bonjour Mimi! Quelle taille tricotez-vous?

Maria 17.08.2020 - 08:39:

Hi, I don't seem to quite get how to do increases in the round in double seed/moss stitch on the sleeves when working A2 and have the pattern be the same. Should I make increases in the knit stitch meaning there will be 4 knit/purl stitches in the row?

DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 09:23:

Dear Maria, increase by working the first stitch and the last stitch of round a total of 2 times (= 2 sts increased), and work the first new sts either P or K depending on the next/previous stitch to keep pattern as before. Happy knitting!

Nina 29.05.2020 - 18:39:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ist es korrekt, dass in der Hin-Reihe (also auf der rechten Seite) für die Abnahmen linke Maschen gestrickt werden, also bei allen Abnahmen, solange in Runden gestrickt wird? 2 M li zusammen vor dem Markierer, 2 M li verschränkt zusammen nach dem Markierer? Ist es überhaupt notwendig, die linken M hinter dem Markierer verschränkt zusammenzustricken? Ich sehe auf der rechten Seite keinen Unterschied zwischen li zusammen und li verschränkt zusammen.

DROPS Design 02.06.2020 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Nina, die Abnahmen werden so gestrickt damit sie nach der selben Richtung neigen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lissi Rubow 21.05.2020 - 10:34:

Hvordan kan man tage ind til raglan med det der er skrevet, for det passer hvis man tager 4 ind pr. omgang, men det er jo 8 masker (2 på hver stykke)?

DROPS Design 27.05.2020 kl. 14:18:

Hej Lissi, Øverst beskriver vi hvordan man tager ind før og efter mærket. Og nede i opskriften beskriver vi hvor tit man tager ind før og efter de forskellige mærker. God fornøjelse!

Marthe Bøhmer 18.05.2020 - 18:43:

Hei. Jeg holder på med genseren Celtic Ballad og har kommet til raglandfellingen . skjønner ikke hvordan dette skal gjøres. Jeg forstår det slik at jeg på annenhver pinne skal felle kun på for og bakstykke-siden av merketråden, og på hver 4de pinne både foran og bak merketrådene?? er dette riktig. Veldig utydelig oppskrift?

Alexandra 16.04.2020 - 11:58:

Bonjour, je voudrais savoir si le raglan se réalise en rond? Merci!

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 12:37:

Bonjour Alexandra, tout à fait, on le tricote en rond jusqu'à ce que l'on rabatte les mailles de l'encolure devant (= 59 à 69 cm selon la taille) puis on le continue en allers et retours en rabattant les mailles de l'encolure au début de chaque rang (= de chaque côté). Bon tricot!

Decen Liu 11.04.2020 - 15:09:

I am so sorry! Would you mind to explain again about Dec on sleeve and front/back pieces.l am knitting for L size For the sleeve: Is that Dec every 4 rows for 6 times, (At that time,it should be 52stitches on needle)? and then Dec stitch every other row for 17 times.At the end,there should be 18 stitches on the needle (sleeve) IS that right?

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 11:08:

Dear Mrs Liu, yes that's right, but remember to decrease at the same time for back and front piece, and also to shape neck (cast off the middle 18 sts when piece measures 63 cm and cast off at the beg of every row on each side for neck as explained). When all stitches are decreased for raglan and cast off for neck, you should have 90 sts left on needle. Happy knitting!

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