DROPS Extra / 0-833

Little Watcher by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dog's sweater with hood in "Fabel".

Tags: pets,
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-189
Yarn group A

Size: XS - S - M

Jumper's measurements:
Chest width: approx. 30 - 42 - 50 cm / 11 3/4"-16½"-19 3/4"
Back length: approx. 15 - 26 - 35 cm / 6"-10 1/4"-13 3/4"

Example of dogs: XS = Chihuahua,
S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel

Materials: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
50-100-100 g color no 521, blue/brown
50 g color no 107, blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') AND DOUBLE POINTED Needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Worked in the round from bottom up. Cast on 78-110-130 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with blue and work in stockinette st for 2.5 cm / 7/8''.
Switch to blue/brown and work in the round until piece measures 9-18-25 cm / 3½"-7"-9 3/4".
Work next round as follows: K 10-14-18, bind off 5 sts for first leg, K 48-72-84 (= back), bind off 5 sts for next leg, K 20-28-36 (= under the belly).
Continue in stockinette st back and forth over the last 20-28-36 sts, at the same time dec 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4 times = 16-24-32 sts remain.
Continue until piece measures approx. 5-7-9 cm / 2"-2 3/4"-3½" from bound off for leg.
Then inc 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4 times = 20-28-36 sts, cut the yarn and slip sts on a stitch holder.
Continue back and forth over the 48-72-84 sts on the back, at the same time dec 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4 times = 44-68-80 sts remain. Continue until piece measures approx. 5-7-9 cm / 2"-2 3/4"-3½" from bound off for leg. Then inc 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4 times = 48-72-84 sts.
Work next row from RS: K 48-72-84, cast on 5 sts, K 20-28-36 sts from stitch holder, cast on 5 sts.
Work 63-91-107 sts, insert a marker; this is now the beg of round.
Work 1 more round over all 78-110-130 sts.

Place a marker after 39-55-65 sts = mid back of hood. Continue in stockinette st with blue/brown, back and forth on needle while at the same time dec in each side and later mid back of hood as follows:
Side: bind off at beg of every row in each side: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, then 1 st 7 times (15 sts dec in each side). Continue without bind offs.
When hood measures 7-11-15 cm / 2 3/4"-4½"-6", inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc in each side every 6th row a total of 3 times.
Mid back: At the same time when hood measures 7-11-15 cm / 2 3/4"-4½"-6", dec from RS, beg 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, work the rest of row.
Repeat on every row from RS a total of 8 times = 16 sts dec in total.
After all dec, 38-70-90 sts remain, the hood measures approx. 12-16-20 cm / 4 3/4"-6 1/4"-8". Bind off.
Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts from RS.

Pick up 40-52-64 sts with blue/brown on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 around one of the openings for the legs. Work in stockinette st in the round for 3-5-7 cm / 1"-2"-2 3/4", switch to blue and work 6 rounds. Loosely bind off. Repeat around the other leg opening.

Pick up approx. 70-88-110 sts with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and blue around the hood opening. Beg at the bottom mid front. K 12 rows back and forth while at the same time inc 1 st at the beg of every row. Loosely bind off.
Place right side of neck edge over the left side, fasten the garter st edge in pick up edge mid front.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-833) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Dalva 09.08.2019 - 18:08:

Amei tudo. Obrigada

Camilla Fritsborn 08.08.2019 - 14:17:

Jag har kommit så långt att jag stickat de 39 maskorna och satt en markör för att sen börja med huvan. Fattar ingenting om hur jag gör. Står att man ska sticka fram och tillbaka på stickan men över vilka maskor då? Tacksam för förtydligande ang detta. Mvh Camilla

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 08:42:

Hej Camilla, du börjar mitt fram och stickar alla 78 maskor fram och tillbaka, samtidigt som maskar av i varje sida enligt beskrivningen. Lycka till :)

Nicole 03.03.2019 - 12:53:

Hello, I am working on the biggest size of the pattern with a130 total st. I am know at the point to do the leg decreases. The stitch count doesn't seem to work. I seem to be missing 18 stitchest? Can you help please. Thank you

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 10:11:

Dear Nicole, on the dividing row you work the first 18 sts (front piece), then cast off the next 5 sts for leg, work the next 84 sts for back piece, cast off the next 5 sts for 2nd leg, then 18 sts remain on needle, work these 18 sts (= 130 sts) then the first 18 sts from beg of round = 36 sts for front piece. Work now these 36 sts back and forth decreasing 1 st at the beg of each row a total of 4 times = 32 sts remain. Happy knitting!

Helle Froberg 18.02.2019 - 12:42:

Jeg savner opskrift til sfinks-katte.

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 09:12:

Hei Helle. Ditt ønske er videreformidlet til vår designavdeling. Hilsen DROPS

Amber 04.04.2018 - 10:43:

Hi there, I believe that the recommended yarn colour (521 blue/brown) has now been discontinued. Can you recommend an alternative? Thanks in advance

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 11:51:

Dear Amber, for any assistance choosing a colour you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, even per mail, telephone or on social medias so that they can give you personnal service. Happy knitting!

Leslie J. McCreath-Hunneman 02.01.2017 - 18:59:

Thank-you so much for your fast reply! As I continued knitting, I realized that was exactly how the pattern read😊! Calvin the Chihuahua is going to be the best dressed dog around...thank-you for such a cute pattern! Fabel Print 151 is adorable, in addition to being a lovely yarn to work with! Blessings...Leslie 😃

Leslie J. McCreath-Hunneman 01.01.2017 - 16:06:

Good Morning and Greetings from Canada! Here is my question: I cast on 78 stitches for my sweater, and am ready to start the cast-off section for the leg openings. The math isn't working for me😳! If I work as follows: Knit 10, bind off 5, knit 48, bind off 5 and knit 20, I am short 10 stitches. 10+5+48+5+20=88, making 10 extra stitches. Blessings...Leslie 😊

DROPS Design 02.01.2017 kl. 09:01:

Dear Mrs McCreath-Hunneman, the first 10 sts worked are before first leg and the last 20 sts worked are the last 10 sts on round (= the 10 sts after 2nd leg) + 10 sts before 1st leg (you already worked once at the beg of round) = 20 sts for belly. Happy knitting!

Jette Hoegh 26.09.2015 - 19:03:

Jeg er ved hætten Hvordan kan man skrive senere i en opskrift og hvor lang skal man strikke frem og tilbage og tage ind 😡

DROPS Design 01.10.2015 kl. 16:15:

Hej Jette, hvis du læser lidt længere i stykket så står der: Midt bagpå: Samtidig når hætten måler 7-11-15 cm tages der ind ..... osv! God fornøjelse!

Jette Hoegh 26.09.2015 - 13:27:

Der er en fejl i denne opskrift. Jeg er igang med at strikke denne trøje i en xs og på den omgang hvor man skal lukke af til ben .efter 2 ben står der at man skal strikke 20 ret men man skal kun lave 10 ret.

S.christensen 25.11.2014 - 21:43:

Kan ikke forstå der ikke er et mønster til opskriften????

DROPS Design 26.11.2014 kl. 15:14:

Hej, Det er det melerede Fabel garn som danner mønsteret. God fornøjelse!

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