DROPS Extra / 0-834

Adventure Hike by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with Norwegian pattern for dogs in DROPS Karisma. Size: XS-M

Tags: nordic, pets,
DROPS design: Pattern no U-655
Yarn group B
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Size: XS - S - M
Dog's measurements:
Chest width: approx. 28/32 – 40/44 – 48/52 cm / 11"/12½" - 15 3/4"/17 1/4" - 19"/20½"
Back length: approx. 24 – 32 - 40 cm / 9½"-12½"-15 3/4"

Example of dogs: XS = Chihuahua,
S = Bichon Frisé, M = Cocker Spaniel

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
50-100-150 g color no 05, black
50-50-100 g color no 21, medium gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 3.5 mm / US 4 (40 cm / 16'') (double pointed needles for the smallest size) - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2or3 for rib.

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 to M.5. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

RIB: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.
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SWEATER:
Worked in the round on needle from the neck down.
Cast on 52-72-92 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with black. Work rib - READ RIB! - for 6-8-10 cm / 2½"-3"-4" (= neck). Switch to a short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (double pointed needles for the smallest size), work 1 round in stockinette st while at the same time inc 8-12-16 sts evenly = 60-84-108 sts.

Then work pattern as follows upwards:
SIZE XS: M.1, M.2 and M.3
SIZE S: M.1, M.2, M.3 and M.4
SIZE M: M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-14-18 cm / 4"-5½"-7" (from cast on edge), divide for front legs as follows: bind off 1 st, slip 11-11-23 sts on a stitch holder (= under the belly), bind off 1 st, then continue pattern back and forth on needle over the remaining 47-71-83 sts (= back piece). When piece measures a total of 16-22-28 cm / 6 1/4"-8 3/4"-11" (opening measures approx. 6-8-10 cm / 2½"-3"-4"), slip sts on a stitch holder. Slip sts from stitch holder under the belly back on needle and work pattern over these sts the same length as on back piece. Slip all sts on the same needle again and cast on 1 new st in each side between over and under piece = 60-84-108 sts. Finish the pattern, then work with medium gray until finished measurements. When piece measures a total of 19-27-35 cm / 7½"-10½"-13 3/4", bind off the middle 9-13-17 sts mid under the belly. Then finish the piece back and forth – while at the same time binding off in each side on every other row: 2 sts 1-2-3 times, 1 st 8-9-10 times, 2 sts 1-2-3 times and 3 sts 1 time = 21-31-41 sts remain on needle. Piece measures approx. 27-37-47 cm / 10½"-14½"-18½".

ASSEMBLY: Slip the remaining sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3, pick in addition up sts around the bind off edge so that there are a total of 84-108-140 sts. Work rib with medium gray for 2½-3-3 cm / 7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8", loosely bind off.

LEG: Pick up approx. 36-44-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with black around the one leg opening. Work rib for 3-4-6 cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-2½", loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Repeat around the other opening. Fold the neck double.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.02.2019
Correction: Then work pattern as follows upwards: Str XS: M.1, M.2 og M.3 Str S: M.1, M.2, M.3 og M.4 Str M: M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 og M.5

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= black
= medium gray

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-834) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Jørn Eldar 25.02.2020 - 17:34:

Er det baby garn som må brukes eller kan vanlig ullgarn brukes.

DROPS Design 26.02.2020 kl. 09:58:

Hej Jørn, du kan bruge alle vores garn i garngruppe B. Prøv gerne vores garnkalkulator, som er inde i selve opskriften. God fornøjelse!

Þórunn Harðardóttir 11.12.2019 - 19:38:

Mér fynst ekki samræmi í nosku og íslensku uppskriftinni

Guri 21.02.2019 - 11:31:

Hei! jeg strikket Nordic Paws 102-42 for en del år siden og bare lurte på om ikke dette mønsteret er akkurat det samme? På forhånd takk!

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 14:56:

Hei Guri. Det er faktisk ikke helt det samme mønsteret på bildet, men jeg kan se at mønsterbeskrivelsen er den samme. Diagrammene skal være de samme, men rekkefølgen skal ikke være lik. Vi skal få sjekket dette snarest. Takk for beskjed. Hilsen DROPS

Egg 04.02.2019 - 14:39:

I would like to have it in French. Thanks

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 15:06:

Dear Egg, just change language by clicking on the dropped menu under picture. Happy knitting!

Daniela 04.01.2019 - 20:42:

Das beantwortet leider meine frage nicht. der pullover ist mit zwei lücken bereits wieder geschlossen. es geht um das muster. die abfolge 1/3/5 endet bei größe xs nach ca 21 cm. auf dem bild sieht es anders aus: muster 1/2/3 dann bleibt ausreichend platz um den restlichen teil einfarbig ohne muster zu ende zu stricken. ich bekomme das hin, denke aber die anleitung hinsichtlich der musterabfolge ist fehlerhaft. lieben gruß

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 09:19:

Liebe Daniela, das Pullover im Foto wird in der Größe S gestrickt, in der Größe XS stricken Sie weniger Reihen, dh, M.1, M3 und M.5 = 19 Reihen in M1 + 11 Reihen in M3 + 8 Reihen in M5 sind 38 Reihen insgesamt = ca 13 cm (30 Reihen = 10 cm) + 6 cm Bündchen = 19 cm = nach M.5 werden die unteren Maschen abgekettet und dann in Reihen einfarbig weiter gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Daniela 04.01.2019 - 01:40:

Ich habe den lieben adventure hike pulli nun in xs über muster 1/3/5 gestrickt, für rinen hund, wie abgebildet. ihr pullover zeigt die muster 1/2/3. wenn ich mit 1/3/5 fertig bin, misst das stück bereits 21cm. der farbwechsel erfolgt erst zu diesem zeitpunkt. hier stimmt etwas nicht. danke für eine kurze erklärung.

DROPS Design 04.01.2019 kl. 14:57:

Liebe Daniela, Sie stricken im Muster M.1, dann M.3 dann M.5 und gleichzeitig, nach 10 cm (von der Anschlagskante) verteilen Sie die Arbeit für die Beinen, dh Farbmuster wird zuerst in der Runde gestrickt, dann hin und zurück, dann wieder in der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Line Borgersen 18.09.2018 - 21:38:

Hei, min phalene er 35 cm brystvidde, og 24 cm langs ryggen. Skal jeg strikke x/s eller s?

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 15:12:

Hej Line, åh så fin :) det er svært at sige, men tror du ikke det er den mindste som passer bedst... God fornøjelse!

Maarit Kuismin 21.08.2018 - 21:27:

Ohjeessa on taidettu mainita puvun selän pituus, ei koiran?

DROPS Design 24.08.2018 kl. 14:15:

Hei, ilmoitetut pituudet ovat koiran pituudet.

Sigrid Neu 27.02.2018 - 12:54:

Ich bin schon öfters auf eure tolle Seite gekommen wegen Babystricksachen. Leider habt Ihr keine Anleitung für Pullover grosse Hunde. Meine Boxerhündin hat eine Rückenlänge von 59 cm, könnt Ihr mir da helfen. Wenn ja dass wäre super

DROPS Design 27.02.2018 kl. 14:01:

Liebe Frau Neu, es gibt 2 Modellen für grössere Hunde (Irisher Setter), Valentino und Let's Go, die Ihnen inspieren können. Leider können wir keine individuellen Umrechnungen vornehmen, wenden Sie sich mit diesem Wunsch bitte an den Laden, in dem Sie die Wolle kaufen. Vielen Dank für Ihr Verständnis.

Eva Jonsson 18.01.2018 - 14:36:

På mönsterrapport M3 i diagrammet, varv 10, måste det efter 6 maskor, vara en tom ruta, d v s en svart maska. Mönsterrapport M4 och M5 finns ej med på bilden.

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