DROPS Extra / 0-813

Harald by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jacket in DROPS Alaska, with pattern and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no X-380
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-100-108-122-128-142 cm / 36"-39½"-42½"-48"-50½"-55 3/4"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½"

Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Color no 37, dark blue: 700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g
Color no 03, light gray: 150-150-150-150-200-200 g
Color no 55, beige: 50-50-100-100-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for rib.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS DUFFEL NO 520: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on left band, all bind offs are done from RS. 1 button hole = P tog 5th and 6th st from mid front and make 1 YO. On next row K the YO.
Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 6, 14, 23, 31, 40 and 48 cm / 2 3/8",5½",9",12 1/4",15 3/4" and 19"
SIZE M: 6, 15, 24, 32, 41 and 49 cm / 2 3/86",9½",12½",16 1/8" and 19 1/4".
SIZE L: 6, 15, 24, 33, 42 and 50 cm / 2 3/8",6",9½", 13",16½" and 19 3/4".
SIZE XL: 6, 13, 21, 28, 36, 43 and 51 cm / 2 3/8",5 1/8",8 1/4",11",14 1/4",17" and 20".
SIZE XXL: 7, 14, 22, 29, 37, 44 and 52 cm / 2 3/4",5½",8 3/4",11 3/8",14½",17 1/4",
SIZE XXXL: 7, 15, 22, 30, 37, 45 and 53 cm / 2 3/4",6",8 3/4",11 3/4",14½",17 3/4" and 21".

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – the diagram shows 2 repetitions in breadth. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline at the front):
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS.
Dec after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec before 1 edge st as follows: K 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 226-246-262-286-302-330 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with dark blue Alaska. P 1 row from WS.
Then work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2/P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this until piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", bind off for BUTTON HOLES on left band - see explanation above.
After rib, switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work next row from RS as follows: 2 sts in garter st, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (= 14 band sts), work in stockinette st until 14 sts remain while AT THE SAME TIME dec 53-61-65-65-69-73 sts evenly (do not dec over front bands), finish with P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and 2 sts in garter st = 173-185-197-221-233-257 sts.
Insert a marker 47-50-53-59-62-68 sts in from each side (= 79-85-91-103-109-121 sts between markers on back piece).
Then work in stockinette st with 14 band sts in each side towards mid front as before. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm / 12½''-13½''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½'', work diagram M.1 as follows:
Work 14 band sts as before with dark blue, work diagram M.1 until 15 sts remain, work 1st st in diagram M.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way on each side of band) and finish with 14 band sts in dark blue as before.
When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼'', work next row from RS as follows: bind off the first 13 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to start the knit up for collar), work 31-34-37-42-45-51 sts (= right front piece), bind off 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts for armhole, work 73-79-85-95-101-113 sts (= back piece), bind off 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts for armhole and work the rest of row (= 44-47-50-55-58-64 sts on left front piece).
Turn and bind off the first 13 sts, insert a marker (this marks where to end the pick up for collar), work the rest of row = 31-34-37-42-45-51 sts.
Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 73-79-85-95-101-113 sts. Continue diagram M.1 (when diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark blue until finished measurements) – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-3-3-4-4-4 times = 67-69-71-73-75-77 sts remain on needle.
When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'', bind off the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts for neck. Now finish each shoulder separately.
Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 22-23-23-24-24-25 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½"

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-34-37-42-45-51 sts. Continue diagram M.1 as on back piece with 1 edge st in garter st towards mid front.
AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8'' / 19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8", dec 1 st towards the neck - SEE DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec on every 4th row a total of 3-3-4-4-6-6 times, and on every 8th row a total of 3-3-3-3-2-2 time.
After all bind offs and dec are done, 22-23-23-24-24-25 sts remain on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 52-52-56-56-60-60 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with dark blue. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-9-11-11-13-13 sts evenly = 41-43-45-45-47-47 sts.
Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Then work in stockinette st.
When piece measures 7-7-7-7-9-10 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½"-4", inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc a total of 11-13-14-16-17-19 times in Size S: On every 10th round, Size M: Every 8th round, Size L: Every 7th round, Size XL: Every 6th round, Size XXL: Every 5th round, Size XXXL: Every 4th round = 63-69-73-77-81-85 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 30-30-29-27-26-24 cm / 11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8"-10 1/4"-9½", insert a marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of shoulder).
Work diagram M.1 – NOTE: St marked with arrow in diagram should be the st with marker mid on top of sleeve.
When diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark blue until finished measurements.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 54-54-53-51-50-48 cm / 21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21"-20"-19 3/4"-19" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts mid under sleeve. Then work back and forth on needle until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 3-3-3-3-3-4 times and 1 st 2-2-2-4-4-5 times.
Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 61 cm / 24'' in all sizes, then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 62 cm / 24½" in all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Pick up sts (inside 1 edge st) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with dark blue - start mid front at marker on right front piece: Pick up approx. 34 to 44 sts up to shoulder, then 22 to 28 sts along the neck, and 34 to 44 sts down along left front piece until marker = 90 to 116 sts. K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc no of sts to 126-130-138-142-150-154. Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 2 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 2 sts in garter st. Continue like this until collar measures approx. 5 cm / 2''. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12 P-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 138-142-150-154-162-166 sts. Then work K over K and P over P until collar measures approx. 7 cm / 2¾''. Now work as follows: Work 1 row as before and slip the first 10 sts worked on a stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on another stitch holder. Turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on the first stitch holder, turn piece, work the rest of row and slip the first 10 sts worked at the beg of row on the other stitch holder.
Continue like this until there are a total of 40 sts on the stitch holders in each side. Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle and work 1 row as before over all the 138-142-150-154-162-166 sts – NOTE: To avoid holes in every transition where piece was turned, slip loop before next st twisted on needle and work tog with first st on needle.
Bind off with K over K and P over P. Neatly fasten collar with stitches in each side towards band – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves and sew on buttons.

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SCARF – see pattern: 135-29
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This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.02.2012
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:...Repeat dec on every 4th row a total of 3-3-4-4-6-6 times, and on every 8th row a total of 3-3-3-3-2-2 time.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= dark blue
= beige
= light gray


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-813) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (59)

Deni 08.11.2020 - 14:15:

After I've put 40 sts from both side of collar on holder how should I put all of the back to needles?thread is in the middle of row now.Should I cut It perhaps?

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 11:04:

Dear Deni, you can cut the yarn and start again from beg of round or then work next row to the end of the row, turn and work next row to the end of the row and cast off on next row. Happy knitting!

Deni 28.09.2020 - 09:24:

I just started increasing for sleeves but I get holes when using kfb right where I'm doing it.The same with yo and I knitted it twisted. Help!

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 10:57:

Dear Deni, you can use any other technique to increase - for example using loop under or with the make 1 technique; Happy knitting!

Deni 20.09.2020 - 07:59:

May I ask what type of increase you recommend for the sleaves?

DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 00:21:

Dear Deni, in most of the DROPS patterns we increase with making a yarnover which then knitted tisted in teh nect row6 round to avoid holes. That would work nicely with this sweater. Happy Knitting!

Ingvild 03.09.2020 - 12:26:

Jeg ønsker å strikke denne jakken i et garn som kan vaskes på maskinullvask, hvilket garn kan jeg erstatte med? Er det noe spesielt jeg bør ta hensyn til når jeg bytter garn? Hvor mange gram av erstatningsgarnet i str L

DROPS Design 07.09.2020 kl. 07:22:

Hei Ingvild. Du kan evnt strikke den i DROPS Big Merino, denne kvaliteten må vaskes på 40`C finvask og det er veldig viktig å følge strikkefastheten så den ikke siger ved vask. Men du kan bruke 2 tråder av DROPS Fabel. Denne kvaliteten kan vaskes i maskin. Se under Garn/Alle garn/DROPS Fabel for mer informasjon. Bruk vår garnkalkulator for regne ut hvor mye garn du trenger. Å overholde strikkefastheten er viktig ved garnbytte. mvh DROPS design

Christine 01.09.2019 - 09:50:

Hallo, ich möchte die Jacke gerne in Merino extra fine stricken. Stricke ich dann von der größe her einfach eine nummer größer? Und wieviel wolle brauche ich ungefähr.? Alaska wolle ist zu dick. Danke und grüße

DROPS Design 02.09.2019 kl. 10:25:

Liebe Christine, Merino Extra Fine gehört zur Garngruppe B und Alaska zur Garngruppe C, so ist Merino Extra Fine keine Alternative zu Alaska, Wenn Sie mit Merino Extra Fine stricken möchten, können Sie sich passende Anleitungen mit Garngruppe B heraussuchen, oder Sie können auch Big Merino (= Garngruppe C) benutzen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Dusica 27.05.2019 - 11:47:

I'm not sure how to work part of shawl collar where it says "work 1 row as before and slip 10sts worked on holder, turn piece,work the rest of the row..."Can you explain a bit more?TIA

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:57:

Dear Dusica, on this row, work the first 10 stitches and slip them on a thread, continue this row to the end, turn, work the first 10 sts and slip them on a thread, continue this row to the end, turn and continue like this until there are 40 sts on the thread on each side. Happy knitting!

Deni 17.05.2019 - 11:49:

Regarding the increase in shawl, what increasing method should be used?Also,I put a marker in the middle of the neck and when I count 6 P2 they go beyond neck and over shoulder line?

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 08:44:

Dear Deni, you can increase 1 purl stitch with this technique - the location of the middle P12 sections can vary depending on the size, but it looks fine, the increase will make the shawl collar nicer. Happy knitting!

Natalia Soldevilla 14.03.2019 - 16:35:

Creo que el tip para los ojales es erróneo, pone que en la vuelta del revés hay que coger la hebra retorcida, entonces no quedaría agujero! No se si estoy en lo cierto, todavía no he empezado la labor. Agradecería me aclararan la duda. Gracias!

DROPS Design 13.04.2019 kl. 21:02:

Hola Natalia. Tienes razón. La lazada se trabaja como un punto normal, no retorcido.

Lynn Guindon 08.03.2019 - 18:52:

I am almost finish the Extra -0=813 pattern. I am knitting shawl collar and I am not sure what this means "..now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12P sections, seen from RS (=back of neck) = " I am doing the large size and there will be 12 sts increases (150-138), but do not understand each of the middle 12 P-sections. Thanks.

DROPS Design 11.03.2019 kl. 09:07:

Dear Mrs Guindon, when working the shawl collar, you have to increase only on mid on back piece of the shawl to get the right shape (so that it can fold nicely on back of neck). You will then increase only on mid back of collar = insert a marker mid on collar and count 6 times P2-sections on either side of the collar = add a marker on the first and on the last = there are 12 P-sections on mid back and you will increase in these sections only, continue with P2 on either side of these. Happy knitting!

Camilla 20.02.2019 - 15:17:

Hei! Hvorfor skal den første pinnen strikkes vrang fra vrangen? Jeg er på første knapphull, men får det ikke til å stemme at det skal felles til knapphull på venstre stolpe fra retten... det blir fra vrangen... er det noe jeg har misforstått? Takk for hjelpen!

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 15:08:

Hei Camilla. Du skal felle til knappehull når arbeidet måler ca 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm. Så du tilpasser selv slik at du feller på en pinne fra retten - altså på slutten av pinnen. God fornøyelse.

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