DROPS Baby / 21 / 39

Grey Gosling by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket worked sideways for baby and children in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-084-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19 3/4''-22''-24 3/8'' (26 3/4''-29 1/8'')
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'')

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 8120, denim/green: 200-200-250 (250-300) g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTONS #521: 5-5-5 (6-6) pieces

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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to neck line):
Inc by making 1 YO inside 2 edge sts in garter st. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes).
NOTE: Work the outermost st in neck line a little tight so that the edge looks nice

BUTTON HOLES: 1 button hole = bind off 1 st and make 1 YO on next row over the bind off st.
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JACKET:
Front and back piece is worked in one, sideways from arm to arm.

RIGHT SLEEVE: Loosely cast on 26-28-28 (30-30) sts (= bottom of right sleeve) on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands Alpaca. Work in Garter St - see explanation above. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 2 cm / 3/4" a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts.
When piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8" (9½"-11"), loosely cast on 27-29-34 (39-42) new sts at beg and end of row for front and back piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (4 3/4"-5 1/8") from where the sts for front and back piece were cast on (piece measures 26-28-31 (36-41) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (14 1/4"-16 1/8") from cast on edge at the bottom of sleeve).
Work next row from RS as follows: K the first 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on needle (= front piece) and slip the remaining 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on a stitch holder (= back piece). Insert a marker in last row, now measure piece from here.

FRONT PIECE: = 46-49-56 (63-68) sts. Turn piece and bind off the first 6-6-6 (7-7) sts on row for neck.
Then dec 1 st towards the neck on every cm / 3/8'' 3 times in total = 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle.
Work until width of front piece = 12.5-14-15.5 (17-18.5) cm / 4 7/8"-5½"-6 1/8" (6 3/4"-7 1/4"). Now bind off for 5-5-5 (6-6) button holes evenly on next row – see explanation above, Note the hole at the top are bound off after 2 sts at neck edge. Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Bind off.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm / 2¾''-3 1/8''-3½'' (4''-4 3/8'') from last marker.
Put the piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands Alpaca.
K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm/1½"-1 3/4"-2" (2 1/4"-2 3/8").
Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece towards the neck on every cm / 3/8'' 3 times in total- see Inc.tips above.
When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm/2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4" (2 7/8"-3 1/8") cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m.
When all sts have been inc for neck, work the two parts tog – see BODY.

BODY: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from back piece on to the same needle as left front piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts on needle. Insert a new marker in the piece - now measure piece from here! Work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (4 3/4"-5 1/8").
Loosely bind off at beg of the next 2 rows 27-29-34 (39-42) sts in each side = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts remain on needle for left sleeve – now measure piece from here.
When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-3/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"), dec 1 st in each side, repeat on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30) sts on needle.
Loosely bind off when sleeve measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8" (9½"-11") (piece measures approx. 59-64-71 (82-93) cm / 23 1/4"-25 1/4"-28" (32 1/4"-36 5/8") from arm to arm).

NECK EDGE:
From RS pick up approx 40 - 50 sts around neck with 2 strands on needles size 5 mm/US 8. K3 rows back and forth, then cast/bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Fold the piece double at the shoulders and sew sleeve and side seams in one in outer loop of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.09.2012
No mistake, but we have edited to make pattern easier to understand:
RIGHT SLEEVE: ...
Insert a marker in last row, now measure piece from here.
BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm/ 2¾''-3 1/8''-3½'' (4''-4 3/8'') from last marker.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 strands Alpaca.
K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm/1½"-1 3/4"-2" (2 1/4"-2 3/8").
Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece towards the neck on every cm / 3/8'' 3 times in total- see Inc.tips above.
When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm/2 3/8"-2½"-2 3/4" (2 7/8"-3 1/8") cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m.
When all sts have been inc for neck, work the two parts tog – see BODY.
Updated online: 31.05.2019
Correction - FRONT PIECE: Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (82)

Simone KvD 17.10.2019 - 14:39:

Ich habe schon 2 Jäckchen gestrickt, bin grade bei Nummer 3 und 4. Ein wunderschönes Modell, würde ich am liebsten auch für mich machen. ;-) Wollige Grüße aus Hamburg, Simone

Breda 22.06.2019 - 22:56:

Modéle facile a realiser

Marine 30.05.2019 - 22:09:

Bonjour, J’ai bien suivi le patron où il est indiqué de continuer à tricoter 2.5 cm après avoir ouvert les boutonnières mais cela fait très étrange d’avoir cette longueur de tricot après les boutonnières. Sur la photo, on a l’impression que les mailles ont été rabattues juste après les boutonnières et non pas après 2.5cm de tricot. Y-a-t-il une erreur? Merci!

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 11:01:

Bonjour Marine, après vérification, il faut effectivement tricoter 2 côtes mousse après les boutonnières, pas 2,5 cm, la correction va être faite, merci. Bon tricot!

Diana 07.05.2019 - 19:29:

Ik vind het veste nogal dik worden met dubbele draad. Kan ik het ook met enkele draad breien en dan wel op naald 5? Moet ik dan meer steken opzetten of zal het dan wel overeen komen?

DROPS Design 09.05.2019 kl. 21:53:

Dag Diana,

Als je ander garen of een enkele draad gebruikt, gaat het erom dat de stekenverhouding overeenkomt met de stekenverhouding in het patroon. Op die manier kun je gewoon het patroon volgen.

Waarschijnlijk wordt het juist weer wat te dun als je met één draad en een dikker naald breit. In plaats daarvan zou je ook een iets dikker garen kunnen kiezen uit garencategorie B. (Let dan ook weer op de stekenverhouding.

Jeannie 02.05.2019 - 10:37:

Hallo, ich habe die Jacke schon mal für eine Freundin zur Geburt ihres Babys gestrickt und sie ist wunderschön. Nun möchte ich die Jacke auch für meinen Sohn stricken allerdings hat er beginnende Gr.110. Können Sie mir da passend Angaben zusenden?Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 02.05.2019 kl. 12:05:

Liebe Jeannie, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen. In diese Grösse gibt es auch quer gestrickt dieses Modell, mit aber einer etwas unterschiedlichen Schnitt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Katell 22.04.2019 - 12:06:

Bonjour, Pour le tricot devant gauche je ne comprends pas l'augmentation pour l'encolure à gauche. Pourriez vous m'expliquer comment tricoter ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 14:28:

Bonjour Katell, pour le devant gauche, on va augmenter pour l'encolure sur le côté gauche (vu sur l'endroit), c'est-à-dire en fin de rang, quand il reste 2 mailles avant la fin du rang, faire 1 jeté et tricoter les 2 dernières mailles (= on a augmenté 1 maille). Au rang suivant, tricoter le jeté torse pour éviter les trous. Répétez cette augmentation 3 fois au total tous les 1 cm (= on a augmenté 3 m), puis montez à gauche (cf hauteur correspondant à la taille) 6 ou 7 mailles en fin de rang sur l'endroit (= à gauche, vu sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

Susan Glenn-Hume 05.04.2019 - 04:20:

Hello! I would like to make this for my soon to be born grandson with blue and white (vertical) stripes to match his parents' favourite football team. Will thiss be OK? Susan

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 09:59:

Dear Mrs Glenn-Hume, since this pattern has been worked with only one colour, you might have to adjust the stripes so that both pieces will be symetrical. Should you need any further individual assistance, you are welcome to contact the store where you bought the yarn - even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Paola 04.03.2019 - 10:46:

Buongiorno, mi chiedevo, potrei fare lo stesso modello seguendo le stesse istruzioni ma utilizza do il cotone Paris invece che 2 capi di Alpaca? Normalmente Paris si lavora col 5... Non sono espertissima e non so calcolare se i filati equivalgono...

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 11:47:

Buongiorno Paola. Può sostituire 2 capi di Alpaca (gruppo filati A) con 1 capo di Paris (gruppo filati C). Verifichi che il suo campione corrisponda con quello indicato nel modello. In questa pagina, trova indicazioni utili per la sostituzione dei filati. Per ogni ulteriore aiuto, può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Krista Larsen 31.01.2019 - 23:14:

Hei, kan jeg strikke med kun ett garn i baby ull str nyfødt?

DROPS Design 01.02.2019 kl. 08:53:

Hei Krista. Det er strikkefastheten som avgjør hvilket garn du kan bytte med. Denne er strikket i 2 tråder Alpaca, med en strikkefasthet på 17 m x 34 p = 10 x 10 cm. Dette tilsvarer strikkefastheten til alle våre garn i garngruppe C. Du kan feks bruke Big Merino som er 100% merinoull, eller Nepal som er ull-alpaca blanding. Lag deg likevel en prøvelapp så du er sikker på at strikkefastheten blir overholdt. God fornøyelse.

Stéphanie 13.11.2018 - 15:45:

Bonjour, J'envisage de tricoter cette très jolie veste pour un des 2 jumeaux d'une amie. Pour l'avoir déjà tricotée, je trouve que la qualité ALPACA rèche pour la peau si sensible d'un bébé. Aussi, je pensais la remplacer par de la BABY ALPACA SILK qui m'a l'air plus douce mais que je ne connais pas (je ne l'ai jamais tricotée)? Qu'en pensez-vous? Si le remplacement est possible, y-a-t-il des adaptations dans le patron à prévoir? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 13.11.2018 kl. 16:17:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vous pouvez remplacer Alpaca par n'importe quelle autre qualité du groupe A: BabyAlpaca Silk, BabyMerino, Fabel, Delight, Safran... tricoté en double ou bien 1 fil du groupe C tricoté en simple - cf alternatives - n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin si besoin (même par mail ou téléphone) - vous pouvez utiliser le convertisseur pour calculer la nouvelle quantité. Bon tricot!

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