DROPS Baby / 21 / 11

Checco's Dream by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with seamless sleeves in seed st for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

  • Checco's Dream / DROPS Baby 21-11 - Knitted jacket with seamless sleeves in seed st for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
  • Checco's Dream / DROPS Baby 21-11 - Knitted jacket with seamless sleeves in seed st for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-054-by
Yarn group B
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 48-52-60 (66-70) cm / 19"-20½"-23½" (26"-27½")
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'')

DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
Color no 20, dark blue:
250-300-300 (350-350) g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS BURNED, NO 513:
4-4-4 (5-5) pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 - diagram shows pattern from RS.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right band. 1 button hole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make 1 YO, on next row K YO.
bind off for button holes when piece measures:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 6, 11 and 15 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4 3/8" and 6''.
Size 6/9 months: 2, 7, 12 and 16 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/4" and 6 1/4".
Size 12/18 months: 2, 8, 13 and 19 cm / 3/4", 3 1/8", 5 1/8" and 7½".
Size 2 years: 2, 7, 12, 17 and 22 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/4", 7½" and 8 3/4".
Size 3/4 years: 2, 8, 13, 19 and 24 cm / 3/4", 3 1/8", 5 1/8", 7½" and 9½".

DECREASE TIP (applies to V-neck): All dec are done from RS!
DEC AFTER 6 BAND STS AS FOLLOWS:
When first st should be K: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
When first st should be P: P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front).
DEC BEFORE 6 BAND STS AS FOLLOWS:
When last st should be K: K 2 tog.
When last st should be P: P 2 tog.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Beg on front piece, cast on new sts for sleeve and work up to the shoulder. Work the other front piece, then place both front pieces tog and work down the back piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 31-35-39 (43-43) sts (includes 6 band sts towards mid front and 1 edge st in the side) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. P 1 row from WS. Then work next row as follows from RS: 6 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= band), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with 1 edge st in GARTER ST. When a total of 4 rows in rib have been worked, continue with diagram M.1 with 6 band sts in garter st towards mid front and 1 edge st in garter st in the side. REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES ON RIGHT BAND - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm / 2¾''-3 1/8''-3½'' (4''-4 3/8''), work next row as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, diagram M.1 over the next 18-22-22 (26-26) sts, slip the last 12-16-16 (20-20) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, continue diagram M.1 over the next 6-6-10 (10-10) sts and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. On next row cast on 12-16-16 (20-20) new sts over the sts on stitch holder = 31-35-39 (43-43) sts. Work pattern as before until piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-8'' (9''-9¾''). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
V-NECK: Work 2 rows in garter st back and forth over the 6 band sts at beg of row (do not work the other sts on row) – this is done to make the V-neck pretty. Then work over all sts again while AT THE SAME TIME dec for V-neck every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) as follows: Dec 1 st a total of 12-14-16 (16-16) times – read DECREASE TIP.
INCREASE FOR SLEEVE: AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side for sleeve: 5 sts 4-4-5 (5-5) times, 7 sts 0-1-1 (2-3) times and 25-24-21 (22-27) sts 1 time.
After last inc, continue diagram M.1 with 6 sts in garter st in each side for band and sleeve edge until piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾''). There are now 64-72-76 (88-100) sts on needle. Insert a marker here – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern as before until 1 cm / 3/8'' have been worked from marker – adjust so that last row is from WS. Slip the sts on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Do not bind off for button holes on left band.

BACK PIECE:
Slip the 64-72-76 (88-100) sts from right front piece back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6, cast on 14-14-18 (18-22) new sts on needle (= neck line in back of neck) and slip the 64-72-76 (88-100) sts from left front piece on to same circular needle = 142-158-170 (194-222) sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 6 sts in garter st (= sleeve edge), diagram M.1 as before over the next 52-60-64 (76-88) sts, 26-26-30 (30-34) sts in garter st (= neck edge at the back), diagram M.1 over the next 52-60-64 (76-88) sts and 6 sts in garter st (= sleeve edge). Continue like this until 2 ridges (= 4 rows in garter st) have been worked over the middle 26-26-30 (30-34) sts. Then continue diagram M.1 as before over all sts with 6 sts in garter st in each side for sleeve edges. When piece measures 7½-8-8 (8½-8½) cm / 2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" (3 1/4"-3 1/4") from marker on shoulder, bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: 25-24-21 (22-27) sts 1 time, 7 sts 0-1-1 (2-3) times and 5 sts 4-4-5 (5-5) times = 52-56-64 (72-76) sts remain on back piece. Continue diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-12 1/4" (13 3/4"-15") from marker. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. When a total of 4 rows in rib have been worked, K 1 row (from RS) over all sts before loosely binding off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side and underarm seams inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons. Fold up the bottom 5 cm / 2'' on each sleeve and fasten if necessary the fold up edge with a couple of neat little stitches.

POCKET SLIT:
Slip the 12-16-16 (20-20) sts from stitch holder on one front piece back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work rib back and forth with 1 st in garter st and 2 K sts in each side (seen from RS). When pocket slit measures 2½-2½-3 (3-3) cm / 7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"), loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. Sew pocket slit to front piece with duplicate sts in each side. Sew pocket opening to bottom of pocket slit (where sts were put on a stitch holder) on the back of piece. Work another pocket slit the same way on the other front piece.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (149)

country flag Jayshree 13.05.2021 - 15:47:

I am a bit confused about shaping the neckline for this pattern. I am really stuck at the beginning of the shaping. I have started the right front and now need to shape the neckline. Please help me understand this pattern.

user icon DROPS Design 13.05.2021 kl. 17:44:

Dear Jayshree, for the V neck V-NECK: Work 2 rows in garter st back and forth over the 6 band sts at beg of row (do not work the other sts on row . so they are short rows, to have the edge lay flat.)Then work over all sts again while AT THE SAME TIME dec for V-neck every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) as follows: Dec 1 st a total of 12-14-16 (16-16) times (depending on the size). Happy Knitting!

country flag Ulla Hoffmann Larsen 21.04.2021 - 08:39:

Jeg har downloaded opskriften til drops baby 21-11 hvor der står man skal bruge 250g til str 6/9og at det billigst muligt koster 31kr og at det derfor koster 62kr at strikke de????? hvad er rigtigt

user icon DROPS Design 21.04.2021 kl. 08:54:

Hej Ulla, tak for info, fejlen er nu rettet!

country flag Marita Schmidt 14.04.2021 - 17:53:

Guten Tag, beim Diagramm ist die Seitenlänge mit 27-29-33 (37-40) angegeben. Laut Anleitung wird genau da eine Markierung gesetzt und dann 1 cm weiter gestrickt. Müsste die Seitenlänge deshalb nicht jeweils 1 cm mehr sein ? Und die Länge des Armausschnittes auch ? Liebe Grüße Marita Schmidt

user icon DROPS Design 15.04.2021 kl. 07:28:

Liebe Frau Schmidt, dieser extra cm nach der Markierung wird für den Halsausschnitt am Rückenteil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Claudia 11.04.2021 - 18:57:

Huhu nachdem ich am Rückenteil über die mittleren 26 M. 2 Krausrippe gestrickt habe und danach mit M1 weiter. Geht mein Muster nicht auf. Ich habe dann 2 re Maschen dann 2 linke und dann wieder 2 linke. Was habe ich falsch gemacht. Ich habe genau die maschenanzahl wie beschrieben! Bitte um Hilfe?!

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 23:43:

Liebe Claudia, vermutlich liegt es daran, dass Sie das linke Vorderteil nicht ganz gegengleich gestrickt haben - auch das Muster muss gegengleich (spiegelverkehrt) gestrickt werden. Die Anleitung wurde in diesem Punkt ergänzt. Sie müssen aber nun das linke Vorderteil nicht neu stricken, es reicht, wenn Sie ab dem Halsausschnitt noch mal beginnen - schlagen Sie für den Halsausschnitt einfach 2 Maschen mehr an, dann geht das Muster später auf. Gutes Gelingen!

country flag Claudia 05.04.2021 - 20:24:

Hallo. Ich habe rechtes u linkes Vorderteil auf eine Nadel mit 14 Neuen Maschen mittig. Das fadenende beider Teile liegt jetzt mittig. Vernähme ich diese und fange mit einem neuen Faden auf der rechten Seite an? Wenn ich von der Mitte weiter stricke habe ich ungleichmässige seiten.

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 14:47:

Liebe Claudia, stricken Sie die Maschen vom rechten Vorderteil, schlagen Sie die neuen Maschen an und stricken Sie die Maschen vom linken Vorderteil, und so weiterstricken; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Claudia 05.04.2021 - 15:07:

Ich bin jetzt am Rückenteil. Hätte man vorher schon vor den 27cm Arbeit an Ärmel schon mit 6 Maschen Krausrippe armbündchen Stricken müssen. Ich habe jetzt alle teile wieder auf eine Nadel. Jetzt steht da 6 Maschen krausrippe (Kante unten am\r\nÄrmel) weiß nicht genau welche? M1 über die nächsten 52 Maschen dann 26 krausrippe (Halsbündchrn) und dann 52 Maschen M1 und 6 Maschen krausrippe -ist dass das Bündchen? Ich habe vorher kein armbündchen ?meien Ärmel sind nur mit M1

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 14:24:

Liebe Claudia, wenn alle Maschen für die Ärmel angeschlagen sind, soll man 6 M kraus rechts beidseitig stricken (= Blende + Ärmel), beim Rückenteil stricken Sie weiter wie zuvor mit den neuen Maschen für den Hals auch krausrechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Rösler Andrea 12.03.2021 - 16:05:

Hallo, ich verstehe Folgendes nicht: Nach total 4 R. Bündchen M1 mit Randm in Krausrippe stricken.

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 07:52:

Liebe Frau Rösler, zuerst stricken Sie 4 Reihen mit Bündchen (und Blendemaschen) wie zuvor erklärt dann stricken das Muster M.1 anststatt Bündchen, dh Hinreihen so: 6 Blendemaschen kraus rechts, die 4 Maschen in M.1 wiederholen bis die letzte Masche und 1 Randmasche krausrechts stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Hanna 23.02.2021 - 23:08:

Ist es richtig ( oder lese ich richtig), dass die Ärmel 37 cm lang sind? Das kommt mir sehr lang vor.... ( für die zweite Größe)

user icon DROPS Design 24.02.2021 kl. 07:45:

Liebe hanna, ich bin leider nicht sicher wo Sie diese 37 cm gelesen haben. In die 2. Größe werden neuen Maschen für die Ärmel so angeschlagen: 5 Maschen x 4 + 7 M + 24 M = 51 M = ca 24 cm - davon werden die unteren 5 cm nach oben umgeschlagen = ca 19 cm. Kann das Ihnen helfen? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag BEAUCLAIR 22.02.2021 - 12:25:

Bonjour. J'aimerais tricoter ce modèle à deux aiguilles est ce possible car je n'aime pas du tout les aiguilles circulaires. Merci pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 13:37:

Bonjour Mme Beauclair, on tricote ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, vous pouvez donc utiliser des aiguilles droites si vous le souhaitez . Retrouvez plus d'infos sur les aiguilles circulaires ici. Bon tricot!

country flag Sophie 05.02.2021 - 11:09:

Bonjour, je tricote ce modèle en 3/4 ans. J'en suis au dos après l'encolure pour reprendre tout le rang en M1 en ayant 6 mailles mousse à chaque extrémité. J'ai 100 mailles côté droit + 22 mailles encolure + 100 mailles côtés gauche soit 222 mailles. Si j'enlève 6+6 mailles des poignets, il reste 110 mailles hors ce nombre n'est pas divisible par 4, bas du motif M1. Je retrouve donc décalée dans le motif dans le rang juste après l"encolure . Comment faire ? Merci d'avance !

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 13:01:

Bonjour Sophie, de part la symétrie, vous devriez retomber juste, mais si ce n'est pas le cas, vous pouvez diminuer/augmenter au niveau de l'encolure pour que le double point de riz tombe juste en largeur, ces 2 mailles en plus / en moins au choix ne se verront pas sur la veste. Bon tricot!

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