Grey Gosling by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket worked sideways for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca

  • Grey Gosling / DROPS Baby 21-39 - Knitted jacket worked sideways for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca
  • Grey Gosling / DROPS Baby 21-39 - Knitted jacket worked sideways for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-084-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56- 62/68- 74/80 (86/92-98/104)

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Colour no 8120, denim/green:
200-200-250 (250-300) g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 34 rows in garter st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTONS NO 521: 5-5-5 (6-6) pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

INCREASE TIP (applies to neck line):
Inc by making 1 YO inside 2 edge sts in garter st. On next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes).
NOTE: Work the outermost st in neck line a little tight so that the edge looks nice

BUTTON HOLES: 1 button hole = Cast off 1 st and make 1 YO on next row over the cast off st.
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JACKET:
Front and back piece is worked in one, sideways from arm to arm.

RIGHT SLEEVE: Loosely cast on 26-28-28 (30-30) sts (= bottom of right sleeve) on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. Work in Garter St - see explanation above. When piece measures 5 cm, inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts. When piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm, loosely cast on 27-29-34 (39-42) new sts at beg and end of row for front and back piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts. Continue to work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm from where the sts for front and back piece were cast on (piece measures 26-28-31 (36-41) cm from cast on edge at the bottom of sleeve).
Work next row from RS as follows: K the first 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on needle (= front piece) and slip the remaining 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on a stitch holder (= back piece). Insert a marker in last row, now measure back piece from here.

FRONT PIECE: = 46-49-56 (63-68) sts. Turn piece and cast off the first 6-6-6 (7-7) sts on row for neck. Then dec for neck line towards the neck every cm: 1 st 3 times in total =
37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle.
Work until width of front piece = 12.5-14-15.5 (17-18.5) cm.
Now cast off for 5-5-5 (6-6) button holes evenly on next row – see explanation above, Note the hole at the top are cast off after 2 sts at neck edge. Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Cast off.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm from last marker. Put the piece aside and work left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm. Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece on every cm 1 st a total of 3 times - see Inc.tips above. When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m. When all sts are inc for neck work pieces together - see BODY.

BODY: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from back piece on to same needle as left front piece = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts on needle. Insert a new marker in the piece - now measure piece from here! Work until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm. Loosely cast off at beg of the next 2 rows 27-29-34 (39-42) sts in each side = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts remain on needle for left sleeve – now measure piece from here. When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st in each side, repeat every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30) sts on needle. Loosely cast off when sleeve measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm (piece measures approx. 59-64-71 (82-93) cm from arm to arm).

NECK EDGE:
From RS pick up approx 40 - 50 sts around neck with 2 strands on needles size 5 mm/US 8. K3 rows back and forth, then cast/bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Fold the piece double at the shoulders and sew sleeve and side seams in one in front loop of outermost st to avoid a chunky seam. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.09.2012
No mistake, but we have edited to make pattern easier to understand:

RIGHT SLEEVE: ...
Insert a marker in last row, now measure piece from here.

BACK PIECE: Slip the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and K every row until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm from last marker.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Loosely cast on 37-40-47 (53-58) sts on needle size 5 mm with 2 threads Alpaca. K every row until piece measure 4-4.5-5 (5.5-6) cm. Now inc for neck line in the left side of piece on every cm 1 st a total of 3 times - see Inc.tips above. When piece measure 6-6.5-7 (7.5-8) cm cast on 6-6-6 (7-7) sts in left side = 46-49-56 (63-68) m. When all sts are inc for neck work pieces together - see BODY.
Updated online: 10.03.2015
under BODY (in each side, not in the side):
..... When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm, dec 1 st in each side, repeat every other cm a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30).....
Updated online: 31.05.2019
Correction - FRONT PIECE: Then work 4 rows in garter stitch. Cast off.
Updated online: 23.03.2021
RIGHT SLEEVE:
... Insert a marker in last row, now measure back piece from here.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-39) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (100)

country flag Bjørg Kvinge wrote:

Nå er plutselig forklaringen på venstre erme, som sto som spørsmål fra en annen Bjørg, ikke lenger synlig. Var siste spørsmål før jeg kom inn med mitt spørsmål.

17.12.2021 - 08:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bjørn - jo det ligger på side 2 :)

21.12.2021 kl. 09:01

country flag Bjørg Kvinge wrote:

Ser at det er kommet svar på spørsmål om venstre erme. Ville spurt om det jeg også, men jeg har spørsmål til hvilken ene av strikketøyet skal settes sammen med bilen. Er det den siden hvor det ikke er økninger?

17.12.2021 - 08:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Bjørg. Litt usikker om jeg skjønner spørsmålet dit helt, men de maskene du har økt på venstre forstykket (altså der det er økt 1 maske 3 ganger + lagt opp 6 eller 7 masker), dette er "hals-området". Dette skal være lik (speilvendt) på halsen på høyre side. Når du setter venstre forstykke sammen med bolen, er det den siden med økninger som settes sammen med ryggstykket (bolen). mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2021 kl. 09:48

country flag Manuela Schedel wrote:

Hallo, ich bin den Anleitung bis Vorder- und Rückteil gefolgt und nun weiß ich nicht weiter. Lt. eurem Diagramm (wird hier das Rückteil gezeigt?) strickt man von links nach rechts. Aber lt. Anleitung strickt man doch erst den rechten Ärmel und das rechte Vorderteil, oder? Wenn ich eurer Anleitung folge, müsste ich das linke Vorderteil an ein halbes Rückteil stricken oder was habe ich nicht verstanden? Bitte um Hilfe! Leider kann man hier keine Bilder hochladen :( LG, Manu

23.05.2021 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schedel, die Jacke wird quer gestrickt, dh man schlägt die Maschen von der rechten Ärmel (wenn mann die Jacke strickt, dh auf den linken Seite wenn die Ärmel wie bei der Skizze liegt) bis zum linken Ärmel gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.05.2021 kl. 09:45

country flag Anja Roerade wrote:

Bijhet linker voorpand moet je iedere cm een steek meerderen, je begint na 5 cm, dan kom ik uit op 8 cm na iedere meerdering. Maar in het patroon staat 6,5 cm, dan direct 6 steken erbij. Dit klopt dus niet. bij het rechter voorpand staat minderen voor de hals en dan vanaf daar meten, is 14 cm. Dit klopt dus niet met de vorige opmerking.

08.03.2021 - 09:34

country flag Patri wrote:

Hola no entiendo muy bien las notas de la parte del escote. Una vez rematados los seis primeros puntos, tengo que hacer una disminucion? Y despues de ahi, tejo pd hasta el final de la vuelta, y las siguientes disminuciones se hacen a un cm de la disminucion anterior, cuando vuelvo en la siguiente vuelta, o son disminuciones a un cm entre ellas en la misma primera vuelta? Me he atascado y no se seguir...

28.02.2021 - 00:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Patri, las siguientes disminuciones se hacen a un cm de la disminucion anterior, cuando vuelves en la siguiente vuelta. Buen trabajo!

04.03.2021 kl. 16:13

country flag DUBOIS ANNE wrote:

BONJOUR Pour le départ de la manche par le poignet, il n y a pas le nombre de mailles en centimètre. Pouvez vous répondre à cette question? Merci pour votre réponse

31.01.2021 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dubois, la largeur du poignet est env. de 7,5-9 cm (selon la taille). La circonference du poignet est respectivement de 15 au 18 cm (env). Bon tricot!

31.01.2021 kl. 19:49

country flag Elke wrote:

Ich habe diese Babyjacke in Größe 74 gestrickt. Diese Mama des Babys ist so begeistert und hätte gerne die gleiche Jacke in Größe 42. können Sie mir bitte einen Tipp geben welche Jacke in ihren Sortiment diesem am ähnlichsten ist? Vielen Dank für Ihre Bemühungen

10.12.2020 - 09:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elke, genau dieselbe Jacke haben wir nicht für Damen, aber hier finden Sie unsere Jacken-Modellen, die quer gestrickt sind. Bestimmt finden Sie eine Idee bzw Inspiration. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.12.2020 kl. 13:55

country flag Marije Van Hattum wrote:

Zoals eerder door iemand (jaren geleden al) is opgemerkt, klopt de beschrijving niet van de tweede mouw: bij de eerste mouw moet om de centimeter gemeerderd worden. Bij 'LIJF' wordt gemeld dat om de centimeter geminderd moet worden. Dit resulteert in twee ongelijke mouwen. Misschien toch de moeite waard om aan te passen of zie ik het toch verkeerd? Alvast dank!

06.12.2020 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marije,

Je hebt inderdaad gelijk, op de linker mouw moet ook om de 2 cm geminderd worden. Het is nu aangepast. Bedankt voor het doorgeven en veel breiplezier!

06.12.2020 kl. 14:15

country flag Karin wrote:

I have made this pattern about five times in different sizes for my grandchildren. My daughter loves the design and would like me to knit one for her in your boucle wool. Could give me a small adult size version of the same pattern.

04.11.2020 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karin, we do not have the exact same pattern in adult size, but you will find our jackets worked sideways here - hope this can help. Happy knitting!

05.11.2020 kl. 10:01

country flag Yolanda wrote:

Moet het achterland niet breder, want nu kom ik niet goed uit met voorhanden, Knoopsgaten komen niet in midden maar schuin

04.10.2020 - 07:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yolanda,

Als ik als voorbeeld even de kleinste maat neem dan wordt het voorpand 12,5 breed (+ nog eens stukje overlap voor de knoopbies). Het achterpand wordt eerst samen met het voorpand gebreid tot een breedte van 9 cm, dan brei je (bij de paragraaf over 'ACHTERPAND') er nog een stuk van 7 cm aan en op het moment dat het rechter voorpand mee gebreid wordt brei je er opnieuw een stuk van 9 cm aan. Daarmee kom je op een totaal van 25 cm voor het achterpand. Dit is ook de breedte van beide voorpanden samen. (De knoopbies reken je dan niet mee).

21.11.2020 kl. 18:12

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