Arched (white) No. 521
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Arched (white) No. 521
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Junior |
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Knitted vest with V-neck and textured pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino or DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS Baby 21-8 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. DOUBLE SEED ST: Row 1: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: K over K and P over P. Row 3: P over K and K over P. Row 4: As row 2. Repeat row 1 to 4. BUTTON HOLES: Bind off for button holes on right band. 1 button hole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from edge and make 1 YO. Bind off for button holes when piece measures: SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 6, 10 and 14 cm / 3/4", 2 3/8", 4" and 5½''. SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 7, 11 and 16 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/8" and 6 1/4". SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12 and 17 cm / 3/4", 2 3/4", 4 3/4" and 6 3/4". SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 8, 13 and 19 cm / 3/4", 3 1/8", 5 1/8" and 7½". SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 8, 14 and 20 cm / 3/4", 3 1/8", 5½" and 8". DEC FOR V-NECK AND ARMHOLES IN DOUBLE SEED ST: All dec are done from RS! DEC AS FOLLOWS BEFORE BAND/SLEEVE EDGE: When last st should be K: K 2 tog. When last st should be P: P 2 tog. DEC AS FOLLOWS AFTER BAND/SLEEVE EDGE: When first st should be K: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. When first st should be P: P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front). -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 148-168-184 (204-224) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with Baby Merino. Work first row as follows from RS: 5 sts in GARTER ST (= band) - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 5 sts in GARTER ST (= band). Continue rib like this with 5 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½" (1½"-2") - REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES on band - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and work in stockinette st but continue bands in garter st as before. AT THE SAME TIME on first row after rib, dec 32-36-40 (44-52) sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 116-132-144 (160-172) sts. Insert a marker 31-35-39 (43-45) sts in from each side (= 54-62-66 (74-82) sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 7-7½-8 (9-10) cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-3 1/8" (3½"-4"), work next row as follows from RS: 5 sts in garter st, 21-21-27 (27-31) sts in stockinette st, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work until 10-10-12 (12-12) sts remain on needle, slip the last 16-16-20 (20-24) sts that were worked on a stitch holder for pocket slit, work 5-5-7 (7-7) sts in stockinette st and finish with 5 sts in garter st. On next row cast on 16-16-20 (20-24) new sts over each of the 2 stitch holders with sts = 116-132-144 (160-172) sts. Continue in stockinette st and in garter st until piece measures 13-14-16 (16-18) cm / 5 1/8"-5½"-6 1/4" (6 1/4"-7"). Now K 4 rows over all sts (= 2 ridges). Then work DOUBLE SEED ST - see explanation above (continue bands in garter st as before). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! When piece measures 15-17-18 (20-21) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7" (8"-8 1/4"), work 2 rows in garter st over the first 5 sts on needle (do not work the other sts on needle), then work 1 row over all sts before working 2 rows in garter st over the first 5 sts on needle in the other side of piece (this is done so that the V-neck looks nice). Then dec for V-neck - see explanation above: Dec 1 st every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 12-13-16 (16-16) times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7½'' (8''-8¾''), work 4 rows in garter st over the middle 18-20-20 (20-20) sts in each side (i.e. over 9-10-10 (10-10) sts on each side of both markers) – work the other sts as before. On next row, bind off the middle 8-10-10 (10-10) sts in each side for armhole and finish front and back piece separately. BACK PIECE: = 46-52-56 (64-72) sts. Work double seed st with 5 sts in garter st in each side (= sleeve edges). AT THE SAME TIME dec for armholes - see explanation above: Dec 1 st every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) a total of 5-6-6 (6-6) times = 36-40-44 (52-60) sts. Continue in double seed st and in garter st until piece measures 24-26-29 (31-34) cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/8" (12 1/4"-13 3/8"). Now work in garter st over all sts until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 25-27-30 (32-35) cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/4" (12½"-13 3/4"), bind off the middle 16-18-20 (20-24) sts for neck = 10-11-12 (16-18) sts remain on each shoulder. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue with garter st until piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4"), bind off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Continue with double seed st and in garter st while AT THE SAME TIME dec for armhole in the side as on back piece and continue dec for V-neck as before. After last dec, 10-11-12 (16-18) sts remain on needle. Work garter st over all sts until piece measures 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4") and bind off. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work as left front piece but reversed. POCKET FLAP: Slip the 16-16-20 (20-24) sts from stitch holder on one front piece back on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. Work rib K2/P2 with 1 st in garter st and K 2 in each side (seen from RS). When pocket flap measures 2½-2½-3 (3-3) cm / 7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"), loosely bind off with K over K and P over P. Sew pocket flap to front piece with duplicate sts in each side. Sew pocket opening to bottom of pocket flap (where sts were put on a stitch holder) on the back of piece. Work another pocket flap the same way on the other front piece. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11629 patterns - 11620 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (209)
Hazel wrote:
Hi, I really love this pattern but I would like to knit it on straight needles, is there a way to convert it to seperate pieces? Many thanks, Hazel
30.10.2024 - 13:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hazel, body is here worked back and forth on a circular needle to get enough room for all stitches, so that you can use a straight needle instead - read more about circular needles here. Happy knitting!
30.10.2024 - 13:50Caroline Boileau wrote:
Explication incomplète pour les mailles glissées et que reste t'il pour dos et devant Comment je dois faire Merci
16.04.2024 - 13:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Boileau, à quel niveau en êtes-vous précisément? Et quelle taille tricotez-vous? Ce sera ainsi plus facile de pouvoir vous aider avec ces infos complémentaires, merci pour votre compréhension.
16.04.2024 - 15:44Veronika Hammeke wrote:
Meine Fragen zur Anleitung: Nach „lesen Sie die Anleitung“ folgt: 1 Krausrippe Stricken, der Rest wird nicht gestrickt .Heißt das, ich wende,Stricke 5 Maschen ,wende wieder und eine ganze Reihe folgt?… weiter eine 1Kr-Rippe über die ersten 5 Maschen auf der anderen Seite..??? Wie stelle ich mir das vor ? Über eine Hilfestellung bin ich Ihnen dankbar. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Veronika Hammeke
10.04.2024 - 12:44DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Hammeke, meinen Sie nach 15-17-18 (20-21) cm ? Dann richtig, stricken Sie die ersten 5 Maschen bei der nächsten Hin-Reihe, wenden und diese 5 Maschen stricken (verkürzte Reihe), wenden, alle Masche wie zuvor stricken, wenden die ersten 5 Maschen stricken, wenden und diese 5 Maschen stricken = so haben Sie 1 extra Krausrippe über die Blenden-Maschen beidseitig gestrickt. Bei der nächsten Hin-Reihe beginnen die Abnahmen für den V-Halsausschnitt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
10.04.2024 - 13:55Dorette Henning wrote:
Es geht um die Abnahme für den Arm Ausschnitt nach Abnahme der 10 Maschen mittig zwischen den 20 Maschen der Krausrippe . Ich habe jetzt 5 Maschen für das Rückenteil auf jeder Seite. Wo nehme ich nun weiter für den Arm Ausschnitt ab. Wo muss ich abnehmen. Ich habe ja am Anfang die 5 Maschen der Krausrippe. Nehme ich da ab, dann reduziere ich ja die Krausrippe
01.04.2024 - 20:12DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Henning, man muss immer diese 5 Maschen krausrippe beidseitig beim Rückenteil behalten, dh die Abnahmen für den Armausschnitt werden am Anfang einer Hin-Reihe nach diesen 5 Maschen und am Anfang der Hin-Reihe vor diesen 5 Maschen - siehe ABNAHME FÜR DEN V-AUSSCHNITT UND DAS ARMLOCH IM DOPPELTEN PERLMUSTER: am Anfang der schriftlichten Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
02.04.2024 - 15:45Christa Strinert wrote:
Ich komme nicht weiter und zwar beim Arm Ausschnittn. Die Abnahme der mittleren 10 Maschen ist das genau von der Mitte der 144 maschen zu.machen oder jeweils nach dem Marker, dann 10 Maschen Krausrippe?
28.03.2024 - 15:56DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Strinert, vor dem Abkette für den Armausschnitt werden 20 Maschen (in 2. bis 5. Größe) = 10 Maschen beidseitig von den beiden Markierungen krausrechts gestrickt, dann werden die mittleren 10 Maschen = 5 Maschen beidseitig von den beiden Markierungen abgekettet, so bleiben 5 Maschen krausrechts am Armausschnitt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
02.04.2024 - 13:49Doris wrote:
I’m working on the 6/9 months size and am confused about the instructions under the body heading; after Dec 1 st every other row… everything afterwards is confusing. At what point in the pattern do you not work the back stitches? Thanks
28.03.2024 - 00:56DROPS Design answered:
Dear Doris, for the 6/9 m size, after the "decrease 1 stitch" on the BACK, you knit with the double moss stitch and the edge stitches in garter stitch (as you knitted those stitches previously) until the piece 26 cm. Then knit with garter stitch on every stitch, but after another cm (when your piece is 27 cm) you cast off the middle 18 stitches. Now take the 11 stitches left on one side and knit with garter stitch for 1 more cm (the whole piece is 28 cm) and cast off. Now, repeat with the 11 stitch you have left on teh other side. Happy Knitting!
28.03.2024 - 09:04Anna Maria wrote:
Tack för tidigare svar. Nu är jag på bakstycket (dvs efter att det står att man ska sticka fram- och bakst var för sig). Tråden är ju dock på framkanten, och jag har alla maskor på samma rundstickor. Ska man sticka sig fram till bakstycket och sen sätta framsidans maskor på en tråd och spara till senare? Eller hur är det tänkt att man ska fortsätta med bakstycket separat från detta? Och är meningen att man redan nu ska ha maskat av 16 gånger i kanterna enl tidigare stycke?
20.03.2024 - 15:04DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anna Maria. Om du har tråden på forstykket og skal strikke bakstykket, må du klippe tråden og så starte på bakstykket. Evnt kan du strikke venstre forstykket først, om det er der du har tråden. mvh DROPS Design
02.04.2024 - 11:44Anna Maria wrote:
Hej. Jag stickar Juniorvästen, och undrar över meningen ”Maska av 1 m på vartannat v (dvs på varje v från rätsidan) totalt 5-6-6 (6-6) gånger = 36-40-44 (52-60) m.” Om jag förstår rätt blir det två maskor mindre på varje varv med minskningar, men ska man alltså minska totalt 12 maskor (dvs minska 6 varv med två minskningar per varv)? Eller hur många gånger, med hur många maskor ska man minska totalt?
19.03.2024 - 14:41DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anna Maria. Ja det stämmer ( om du stickar någon av de 4 största storlekarna). Du minskar 1 maska i varje sida 6 gånger, så du minskar totalt 12 maskor. Mvh DROPS Design
20.03.2024 - 08:10Rene Gould wrote:
Hi nearly finishesd with your kind help but I’m stuck agin in pocket flap don’t understand where it says do rib k2/p2 then it says do 1garter stitch an k2 in each side really don’t understand please help thank you
13.03.2024 - 21:47DROPS Design answered:
see below =)
14.03.2024 - 08:36Rene Gould wrote:
Hi nearly finishesd with your kind help but I’m stuck agin in pocket flap don’t understand where it says do rib k2/p2 then it says do 1garter stitch an k2 in each side really don’t understand please help thank you
13.03.2024 - 21:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Gould, work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work rib *K2, P2* until 3 sts remain, then work K2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Happy knitting!
14.03.2024 - 08:35