William by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan and stripes for baby and children in DROPS Lima

  • William / DROPS Baby 21-29 - Knitted jumper with raglan and stripes for baby and children in DROPS Lima
DROPS design: Pattern no LI-002-by
Yarn group B
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-64 (70-76) cm / 19 3/4"-22"-25 1/4" (27½"-30")
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'')

Materials: DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
Color no 5610, brown: 200-200-200 (250-250) g
Color no 5310, light brown: 50 g all sizes

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE AND DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 (for edges).

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS LIGHT, #503: 3 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIB: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.

STRIPES:
2 rounds light brown, 3 rounds brown, 3 rounds light brown, 2 rounds brown, 1 round light brown, 3 rounds brown, 4 rounds light brown, 1 round brown, 2 rounds light brown.

DECREASE TIP FOR RAGLAN WITHOUT BUTTON BAND:
K 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 4 sts remain on needle, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2.

DECREASE TIP FOR RAGLAN WITH BUTTON BAND:
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS: Work 4 band sts in garter st, K 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 2, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 6 sts remain on needle, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, work 4 band sts in garter st.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS: Work 4 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, * Work until 3 sts remain before next marker, P 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), P 2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* at the next 2 markers, work until 6 sts remain on needle, P 2 twisted tog, work 4 band sts in garter st. NOTE: Make sure that the sts lay in the correct direction from RS.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTON HOLES: Bind off for button holes on the raglan band which is on the sleeve part – assess if this is needed in the larger sizes. Make hole as follows: K 1, K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 1. Bind off for button holes when band measures:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 5 and 8 cm / 3/4", 2" and 3 1/8''
Size 6/9 months: 3, 6 and 9 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/8" and 3½''
Size 12/18 months: 3, 7 and 10 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/4" and 4"
Size 2 years: 3, 7 and 11 cm / 1 1/8", 2 3/4" and 4 3/8"
Size 3/4 years: 4, 8 and 12 cm / 1½", 3 1/8" and 4¾''
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.

BODY:
Cast on 102-114-126 (138-150) sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with brown Lima. K1 round, then continue with RIB for 3 cm / 1 1/8'' - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K 1 round.
Work next round as follows: Insert a marker in the 1st st (= beg of round), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts, insert a marker in next st (= mid in the side), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts.
Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 14-15-18 (21-23) cm / 5½"-6"-7" (8 1/4"-9"), work STRIPES - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-20 (23-25) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-8'' (9''-9¾''), on next round bind off 5 sts in each side for armholes (= st with marker + 2 sts on each side of this) = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-30-36 (36-36) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with brown Lima. K 1 round, continue with rib for 3 cm / 1 1/8''. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker in the 1st st on round, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 2 sts mid under sleeve on each side of marker, repeat inc on every 3-2-3 (2.5-2.5) cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-1 1/8" (7/8"-7/8") a total of 4-6-5 (7-9) times = 38-42-46 (50-54) sts. When piece measures 15-17-18 (23-27) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7" (9"-10 5/8") work STRIPES. When piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29) cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/8") (adjust so that same no stripes has been worked as on body), on next round bind off 5 sts mid under sleeve = 33-37-41 (45-49) sts.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 158-178-198 (218-238) sts. Insert a marker in every transition between body and sleeves.
Then continue the piece with or without button holes – see explanation below.

YOKE WITH BUTTONS:
Then the piece is worked back and forth from right "raglan seam" at the front. Cast on 4 extra sts on the front piece part (= button band) = 162-182-202 (222-242) sts.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Continue in stockinette st and with stripes as well as 4 sts in GARTER ST at beg and end of row (for button band). At the same time dec for raglan – see DECREASE TIP – dec on every other row: 11-11-12 (12-13) times and then on every row: 1-3-4 (6-7) times. NOTE: Also bind off for BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above. At the same time when piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" (12½"-13 3/4"), slip the middle 13-13-13 (15-15) sts in the front on a stitch holder for neck and work each side separate. Continue to bind off towards the neck on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 (3-3) times. After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, a total of 45-49-53 (53-57) sts remain on needle.

YOKE WITHOUT BUTTONS:
Then work in the round. Continue in stockinette st and with stripes. At the same time dec for raglan – see DECREASE TIP – dec on every other row: 11-11-12 (12-13) times and then on every row: 1-3-4 (6-7) times. At the same time when piece measures 23-25-29 (32-35) cm / 9"-9 3/4"-11 3/8" (12½"-13 3/4"), slip the middle 13-13-13 (15-15) sts on a stitch holder for neck and continue back and forth on needle. Continue to cast off towards the neck in beg of every row each side: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 (3-3) times. After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 41-45-49 (49-53) sts remain on needle.

NECK:
Work in the round for yoke without buttons and back and forth for yoke with buttons.
Pick up approx. 23 to 27 sts at the front of neck (including sts on stitch holder) with brown = 68 to 84 sts.
Slip all sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 – work 1 round/row in stockinette st while at the same time dec/inc sts evenly to 64-76 sts. Work rib K 1/P 1 for 4 cm / 1½'', loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the openings under the sleeves. If button band has been worked: Place button bands on top of each other with the button holes part at the top and fasten in the bottom edge from WS. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.02.2012
BODY:...Work next round as follows: Insert a marker in the 1st st (= beg of round), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts, insert a marker in next st (= mid in the side), K 50-56-62 (68-74) sts.
Updated online: 03.03.2014
NECK:
Work in the round for yoke without buttons and back and forth for yoke with buttons.
Pick up approx. 23 to 27 sts at the front of neck (including sts on stitch holder) with brown = 68 to 84 sts.
Slip all sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 – work 1 round/row in stockinette st while at the same time dec/inc sts evenly to 64-76 sts. Work rib K 1/P 1 for 4 cm / 1½'', loosely bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Johanna Smit wrote:

Ik wil een baby truitje breien met patentst op 2 naalden 4,5 voor 9 mnd maar kan gaan patroonvinden

16.10.2021 - 12:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Johanna,

Misschien dat dit patroon wat is? Deze wordt echter wel op de rondbreinaald gebreid van boven naar beneden.

Mocht je nog een ander patroon vinden die verder aan je wensen voldoet, maar op de rondbreinaald wordt gebreid dan kun je deze instructie raadplegen om het patroon aan te passen om met rechte naalden te breien. Helaas is dit niet voor ieder patroon geschikt.

17.10.2021 kl. 18:32

country flag Tina Hald wrote:

Hej Jeg strikker sweateren uden knap kan . Der står man skal sætte 15 masker på en tråd , så vidt så godt . Men hvordan kommer man så videre ? Ret naturligt ville jeg så begynde at stikke frem og tilbage ( man kan jo ikke bare hoppe over 15 masker ? ) . Men det står der kun i opskriften med knap man skal gøre . Så synes det er lidt misvisende . Men jeg har altså strikket frem og tilbage idet jeg ikke kunne se andre løsninger

12.12.2020 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tine. Om man har valgt å strikke med knapp må man strikke frem og tilbake når man begynner på bærestykket, Men skal man strikke uten knapp strikker man rundt til der man setter masker på en tråd til hals og deretter må man strikke frem og tilbake et lite stykke. Så du har gjort det riktig. God Fornøyelse!

16.12.2020 kl. 14:38

country flag Vera Myhrman wrote:

Hej vilket annat garn kan jag ersätta Lima med? Konvertera hänvisar mig att skriva till er. Tacksam för hjälp Mvh Vera

15.08.2020 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vera. Du kan ersätta Lima med ett annat garn ur garngrupp B. Du hittar en översikt över vilka garn som tillhör vilken garngrupp här. Tänk som vanligt bara på att få den stickfasthet som uppges i mönstret och att beräkna riktig garnåtgång med det alternativa garnet. Mvh DROPS Design

17.08.2020 kl. 10:52

country flag Johanna wrote:

Hej! Jag stickar tröjan utan knappar i strl 12/18 mån. Jag blir förvirrad när det ska maskas av mot halsen. I beskrivningen står ”sedan maskas av mot halsen....” vilket jag tolkar som att det görs EFTER minskningar till raglan (eftersom det annars står ”samtidigt”). Men i svar på frågor skriver ni att det ska göras samtidigt med minskningar för raglan? Vad stämmer? Undrar också om det är sammanlagt 8 maskor som ska avmaskas till halsen? Tack!

12.12.2019 - 10:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Johanna, du minskar till raglan och samtidigt när arb mäter 29 cm sätts de mittersta 13 m fram på 1 tråd till hals, nu minskar du även till halsen i början på varje varv enligt beskrivningen. Lycka till :)

16.12.2019 kl. 15:32

country flag Winnie Normann wrote:

Jeg strikker den største str. uden knapper og er kommet dertil hvor jeg skal sætte masker til hals på en snor, jeg kan ikke rigtig hitte ud af om hvorvidt, jeg så efterfølgende, skal strikke frem og tilbage på rundpinden, for at kunne lave indt. til hals og så også lave raglan indt. på vrang pinden,eller kan det gøres fra retsiden, i givet fald hvordan? ;-)

18.02.2019 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Winnie. Når du har satt maskene på en snor strikker du frem og tilbake fra den ene siden av halsen til den andre siden av halsen, snu og strikk tilbake fra vrangsiden. Du feller av de ytterste maskene (altså nærmest halsen) på begynnelsen av hver 2 pinne som forklart. Dette gjøres samtidig som fellingen til raglan pågår, og du må felle til raglan fra vrangsiden når det skal felles på hver pinne. Før merke: ta 1 maske løst av som om den skulle strikkes vrang, 1 vrang, løft den løse masken over. Etter merke: strikk 2 vrang sammen. God fornøyelse

21.02.2019 kl. 14:12

country flag Malika wrote:

Ich habe die Arbeit genau nach Anleitung gestrickt in der Größe 2 Jahre. Eigentlich stricke ich eher eng. Trotzdem ist der Pullover relativ breit/weit geworden. Das ist bei Wollsachen, die ja sowieso die Tendenz haben, mit der Zeit noch etwas weiter zu werden, schade. Außerdem fand ich die Erklärungen für die Passe mit Knöpfen sehr unpräzise.

16.01.2019 - 15:10

country flag Malika wrote:

Und ergänzend dazu: wie viele Reihen (hin und rück) der Passe habe ich noch zu stricken, wenn ich die Maschen auf den Hilfsfaden lege (also bis die Passe beendet ist und das Halsbündchen anfängt)?

13.01.2019 - 18:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Malika, Sie stricken noch die Abnahmen für Halsausschnitt und gleichzeitig die Raglanabnahmen stricken Sie noch weiter, also je nach der Grösse müssen 41-57 M je nach Grösse und Passe bleiben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2019 kl. 12:03

country flag Malika wrote:

Ich stricke den Pullover mit der Passe mit Knöpfen. Zu den Maschen, die für den Halsausschnitt auf einen Hilfsfaden gelegt werden sollen, habe ich zwei Fragen: 1. Ist die Raglanabnahme dann schon vollständig abgeschlossen? 2. Von welchem Punkt stricke ich hin und zurück? Bislang war es die Öffnung zwischen rechtem Ärmel und Vorderteil. Jetzt habe ich eine zweite Öffnung auf beiden Seiten der Maschen auf dem Hilfsfaden. Das kann so nicht funktionieren, oder wo liegt mein Denkfehler? Danke.

12.01.2019 - 07:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Malika, wenn die Maschen für den Hals stillgelegt sind, sind alle Raglanabnahme noch nicht fertig, stricken Sie nur jedes Teil weiter (nach und vor Öffnung) mit Raglanabnahmen wie zuvor und dazu die für den Hals. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2019 kl. 13:22

country flag Lisa wrote:

Ich stricke den pullover in gr. 104. Muss ich nach insgesamt 23 cm mit den Streifen anfangen, oder 3cm Bündchen und ab da 23 cm?

08.01.2019 - 21:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, die 23 cm werden von der Anschlagskante gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

09.01.2019 kl. 08:46

country flag Jane Ogden-Swift wrote:

Hello. William without buttons 12/18 mths. I started working on the yoke with 198 st.I have dec12 times alternately =12x8 leaving 102 st, I dec 4 times on every row leaving 70 st. 13 st onto holder leaving 57. I do not understand how i continue and end up with 53 st. I am starting with brown at a raglan seam. Presumably I now work back and forth in knit and purl. Do I now stop decreasing at the raglan seams and dec either end? But dec 2 once and dec 1 twice = -8 which leaves 49. Please help Thx

19.12.2018 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ogden-Swift, 198 sts refer to the 3rd size, you dec for raglan 8 sts x 12 every 2nd round + 8 sts x 4 every round = 8 sts x 16 times in total = 128 sts are dec for raglan. You slip the middle 13 sts on front piece on a st holder for neck then continue back and forth binding off for neck on each side: 2 sts x 1 + 2 sts x 1 (= 4 sts on each side x 2 sides = 8 sts = 13 +8 = 21 sts for neck). 198 sts - 128 sts dec for raglan - 21 sts for neck = 49 sts remain after all decreases are done. Happy knitting!

19.12.2018 kl. 13:49

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