DROPS Baby / 21 / 23

Happy Days by DROPS Design

Knitted jumpsuit with raglan for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine

  • Happy Days / DROPS Baby 21-23 - Knitted jumpsuit with raglan for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
  • Happy Days / DROPS Baby 21-23 - Knitted jumpsuit with raglan for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS design: Pattern no ME-056-by
Yarn group B
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SUIT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19 3/4''-22''-24 3/8'' (26 3/4''-29 1/8'')
Full length: 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17 3/4"-21"-24 3/8" (26 3/4"-30 3/8")
Leg length: 18-22-25 (29-34) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (11 3/8"-13 3/8"

Materials: DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
Color no 07, light brown: 300-300-350 (400-400) g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm - for rib.

DROPS SEASHELL BUTTONS #526: 5-6-8 (8-9) pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS.
Dec as follows before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-54-60 (66-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round, then work rib K 3/P 3. Work rib for 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2"). K 1 round while dec 6 sts evenly = 42-48-54 (60-66) sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7.
P 1 round, then work in stockinette st.
When piece measures 6-6-6 (7-7) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" (2 3/4"-2 3/4"), inc 1 st on each side of marker, repeat inc every 3-4-5 (5-7) cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-2" (2"-2 3/4") a total of 4 times = 50-56-62 (68-74) sts.
When piece measures 16-20-23 (25-32) cm / 6 1/4"-8"-9" (9 3/4"-12½"), divide at inside of leg and finish the piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip the legs on the same circular needle). Cast on 1 edge st in each side = 52-58-64 (70-76) sts.
When piece measures 18-22-25 (29-34) cm / 7"-8 3/4"-9 3/4" (11 3/8"-13 3/8"), dec 1 edge st in each side.
Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way.

SUIT:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 = 100-112-124 (136-148) sts. Continue to work back and forth from mid front as follows (1st row = RS): bind off 4 sts, K the rest of row. Turn piece, bind off 4 sts and P the rest of row = 92-104-116 (128-140) sts. Continue in stockinette st back and forth over all sts.
When piece measures 27-35-43 (43-50) cm / 10 5/8"-13 3/4"-17" (17"-19 3/4"), work in garter st until finished measurements - see explanation above.
When piece measures 37-45-53 (58-65) cm / 14½"-17 3/4"-21" (22 3/4"-25½"), work next row (from RS) as follows: Work 17-20-23 (26-29) sts in stockinette st (= right front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 42-48-54 (60-66) sts in stockinette st (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 17-20-23 (26-29) sts in stockinette st (= left front piece).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 36-42-42 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round, continue in rib = K 3/P 3. When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-8 (12-10) sts evenly = 30-32-34 (36-38) sts.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and P 1 round. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Then work in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm / 2'', inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve, repeat inc on every 5th-5th-6th (6th-6th) round a total of 6-6-7 (8-9) times = 42-44-48 (52-56) sts.
When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-11"), bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. Bind off 4 sts on each side of marker) = 34-36-40 (44-48) sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 144-160-180 (200-220) sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work in garter st back and forth over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row, dec 1 st on each side of all markers for raglan - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every other row (every row from RS) a total of 10-11-12 (13-15) times. AT THE SAME TIME when dec for raglan has been done 7-6-6 (6-7) times, bind off for neck at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 3-3-4 (5-5) times and then 1 st 0-2-2 (2-3) times.
After all dec for raglan and bind offs for neck, 52-56-64 (72-74) sts remain on the needle and piece measures approx. 45-53-62 (68-77) cm / 17 3/4"-21"-24 3/8" (26 3/4"-30 3/8") up to shoulder. Bind off all sts.

BAND:
Knit up 63-75-91 (95-103) sts along right front piece from bottom up to neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Then work rib as follows (from WS): 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P 2.
When rib measures 2 cm / 3/4'', bind off for button holes on next row from RS as follows: Rib over the first 10-10-2 (6-2) sts, * P 2 tog, 1 YO, 10 sts in rib * repeat from *-* a total of 4-5-7 (7-8) times, finish with P 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2, 1 st in garter st.
Continue with rib until band measures 4 cm / 1½'', bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat on the left side but without button holes.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up approx. 80 to 120 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work as follows: 1 st in garter st, then rib K 2/P 2 until 1 st remains on needle – work 1 st in garter st. Repeat for 3 cm / 1 1/8''. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew opening under the sleeves and sew seam on inside of legs inside 1 edge st. Sew left band to where 8 sts were bound off mid front.
Sew the buttons on to the left front band.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Patrizia 08.01.2021 - 23:59:

Hallo, ich habe Probleme seit ich beide Beine auf die rundstricknadel gelegt habe. Es scheint, meine Stricknadeln sind zu lange um ordentlich Stricken zu können. Vor allem die Rundungen an den Außenseiten der Beine spannen so sehr, dass ein stricken nicht möglich ist. Brauche ich spezielle Nadeln dafür? Meine sind 8.5cm lang. Oder gibt es einen Trick? Lg

user icon DROPS Design 11.01.2021 kl. 07:45:

Liebe Patrizia, wenn Sie die beide Beine auf die gleiche Nadel zusammenstricken, stricken Sie nicht mehr in Runde sondern in Reihen, die ersten Reihen können etwas trickig sein, deshalb benutz man eine Rundnadel, vielleicht können Sie diese ersten Reihen mit dem Nadelset noch stricken, und nach einigen Reihen mit der Rundnadel weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jay 01.10.2019 - 12:32:

When picking up the front band, do we also pick up the 4 stitches we cast off at the beginning of the "Suit"?

user icon DROPS Design 01.10.2019 kl. 13:28:

Dear Jay, no you don't pick up stitches along these 4 stitches cast off at the beginning of the suit, but then you will sew the front band along these stitches (the side of the front band stitches) to close the bottom of the suit. Happy knitting!

country flag Anette Jensen 21.08.2019 - 23:19:

Har lige strikket denne i den mindste str. Jeg brugte "kun" 250 gr (oplysning til dem der køber garn til denne) Derud over er der fejl i opskriften til sidst når du skal lukke af. Der står jeg har 144 m på pinden (rigtigt) men når jeg har taget ind til raglan (40 m ialt) og til hals (12 m ialt). Det giver 92 m tilsidst og ikke 52 som der står i opskriften. Vær venligst opmærksom på denne fejl !!

country flag Trisha 23.05.2019 - 13:26:

Ok so I am at the divide at inside of leg and finish piece back and forth on needle, what exactly does that mean? Am I continuing on 2 double pointed needles? If so, wont that make 2 flaps on the leg rather than one circular leg? I am not very experienced with knitting so it may be a very easy answer and I am not smart enough to get it Haha. Please help!

user icon DROPS Design 23.05.2019 kl. 14:16:

Hi Trisha. Not at all, this isn't obvious to a beginner. You can continue with whatever needle you're using, but when you get to the end of round, cast on 1 new stitch (= edge stitch), turn and work back from the wrong side. Once you're back at the beginning, cast on a new stitch (= edge stitch), turn and work from the right side again. Continue working back and forth like this (without casting on at the end, as you only do this the first time) until piece measures 17-18-21 (24-28) cm. You will now have a small vent/split at the top of the leg. Remember to purl all stitches when working from the wrong side, so that you are still working stocking stitch. Happy knitting

country flag Trisha 22.05.2019 - 02:26:

Trying to ask a question but it says I'm using forbidden words, I dont know what words I can and cant use

user icon DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 09:22:

Dear Trisha, Try please to reword your question - could you please tell us in Facebook which words you were trying to use? Thank you!

country flag Birthe Nielsen 11.12.2018 - 19:02:

Dejlig nem og hurtig at lave..

country flag Duge 17.11.2018 - 15:03:

Merci pour ce joli modèle que j'ai réalisé 2fois

country flag Steffi 15.11.2018 - 20:07:

Ich komme bei der Blende nicht weiter. Wo genau an der rechten Seite muss ich die Maschen aufnehmen?

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 09:21:

Liebe Steffi, die Maschen werden am Vorderteil aufgeffast, sofort nach den 4 abgeketteten Maschen am Anfang Strampfler bis zur halsausschnitt - beim linken Vorderteil fangen Sie am Halsausschnitt bis zu den 4 abgeketteten Maschen beim Strampfler. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gina G 09.02.2018 - 11:17:

When I divide the inside leg do I cast on 1, knit the row, turn, cast on 1, purl the row, then stocking stitch until it is 25cm (3rd size)? What method of cast on 1 do you recommend?

user icon DROPS Design 09.02.2018 kl. 13:34:

Dear Gina G, you can inc 1 st at the end of each row with kfb (see video or increase 1 st by casting on 1 st at the end of next both rows using this technique. Happy knitting!

country flag Claudia 19.01.2018 - 11:42:

Habe für mein erstes Enkelkind den Strampler im Herbst fertiggestellt, die Anleitung ist mega einfach und doch ist mir bei der Abnahme der Rundpasse ein Fehler passiert. Das Ausbügeln ging dann aber doch schnell und der Strampler sieht supersüss aus. Da es derzeit in meiner Familie Babys regnet bin ich nun mit dem dritten Strampler angefangen, die Mütter freuen sich. Vielen Dank für diese tolle Anleitung!

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