Gretchen by DROPS Design

Knitted vest with textured pattern and v-neck, in DROPS Karisma. Size children 3 to 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no U-053-bn
Yarn group B
Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 60-66-72-76-82 cm / 23½"-26"-28½"-30"-32 1/4"
Full length: 38-41-44-47-50 cm / 15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4"

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 40, light old pink:
200-250-250-300-300 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm/US 2or3 - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 and M.2 – diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 288-312-336-360-384 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Karisma. Work diagram M.2. When diagram M.2 has been worked, there are 144-156-168-180-192 sts on needle. Continue with K over K and P over P.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 round while at the same time dec 12 sts evenly = 132-144-156-168-180 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until finished measurements - see arrow for where to beg in your size (this is important to make the pattern pretty mid front). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 25-27-29-31-33 cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4"-13", work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 29-32-35-38-41 sts (= left front piece), bind off 2 sts for neck, work 29-32-35-38-41 sts (= right front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 60-66-72-78-84 sts (= back piece), bind off 3 sts for armhole, cut the yarn.
Finish front and back piece separately.

= 60-66-72-78-84 sts. Continue diagram M.1 back and forth on needle - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-3-2-3-3 times = 48-50-54-58-60 sts. When piece measures 36-39-42-45-48 cm / 14 1/4"-15 1/4"-16½"-17 3/4"-19", bind off the middle 20-20-22-22-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on every row starting from neck 2 times = 12-13-14-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures approx. 38-41-44-47-50 cm / 15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4".

= 29-32-35-38-41 sts. Bind off for armhole as on back piece - AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st on every row starting from neck 11-11-12-12-13 times.
After all bind offs, 12-13-14-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 38-41-44-47-50 cm / 15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4".

Work as left front piece but reversed.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Worked back and forth from mid front. Knit up approx. 80 to 100 sts around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 - beg mid front edge. Turn and K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 96-100-108-112-124 sts.
Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 st which is K on all rows, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 st which is K on all rows. When edge measures approx. 2-2½-2½-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8", bind off with K over K and P over P. Place the left part of neck edge over the right part and sew in bottom edge with neat stitches.

Pick up approx. 70 to 90 sts around one armhole on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3. P 1 round while at the same time inc evenly to 80-88-92-100-104 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 2 cm / 3/4'', then bind off with K over K and P over P.
Work the same way around the other armhole.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Christiane 15.05.2020 - 09:58:

ICh habe eine Frage zum aketten beim Linken/rechten Vorderteil. ICh soll für den HAlsausschnitt abketten. 11 Mal eine Masche. MAche ich das abketten nur auf der Vorderseite oder wenn ich zurückkstricke auch ? Also jede NAdel oder nur alle 2 NAdeln? Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen. Danke

DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 10:35:

Liebe Christiane, es wird am Anfang jeder Reihe vom Hals (bis zum Armausschnitt) abgekettet, dh am Anfang jeder 2. Reihe (= Hinreihe bei dem rechten Vorderteil, Rückreihe bei dem linken Vorderteil). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jacqueline Moore 12.02.2020 - 18:24:

Hi, me again. I wrote earlier wondering if this lovely vest pattern could be adapted for an adult by one of your experts. I would love one for myself but don't have the expertise to adjust the pattern. Thanks.

DROPS Design 13.02.2020 kl. 11:48:

Dear Mrs Moore, you will find this pattern in men size here, it might be easier to adapt to a woman size. Happy knitting!

Jacqueline Moore 31.01.2020 - 18:07:

Love, love this pattern and have made 2 vests. One for each granddaughter. Now I am wondering if you wonderful pattern makers can adapt it for adult sizes as I would love to have a matching one. Thanks.

Jacqueline Moore 02.12.2019 - 13:51:

Thank you for your reply. Does that mean I start every round on the 9th stitch?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 14:54:

Dear Mrs Moore, yes correct, you start each round with the 9th stitch, and work diagram to the left, then repeat diagram in width, finishing with the 8 first stitches in diagram. Happy knitting!

Jacqueline Moore 01.12.2019 - 18:10:

I love this pattern but am having difficulty understanding the chart. I am knitting size 7/8 and about to start chart M.1 with 156 stitches. I will start at the 9th stitch on first round. Does that mean I knit 4 stitches then purl 152 to the end of the round? Or do I knit the 1st round, purl the 2nd, knit the 3rd and 4th, purl the 5th, knit the 6th and then start round 7 on the 9th stitch? Thank you.

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 10:21:

Dear Mrs Moore, in size 7/8, start working with 9th st in diagram and work the last 4 sts; then repeat M.1 (= 12 sts) a total of 12 times = over the next 144 sts; and finish with the first 8 stitches in diagram = 4+144+8= 156 sts. Happy knitting!

Ekaterina 08.11.2019 - 17:01:

Dear Drops! I'm working Back piece row 28 on M1 with the arrow. How should I continue if I have 54 sts in order to have the pattern mid front?Should I work 1K, 11P on row 28, then on row 29 -1 P, 9 K, 1P, 1K?

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 09:43:

Dear Ektaterina, if you are working with a different tension or another size, you would have to adjust the pattern how you rather would like it to be and center the part of the pattern you'd like (check the example in the pattern to help you). Happy knitting!

Ekaterina 07.10.2019 - 16:42:

Much obliged for your kind help!

Ekaterina 07.10.2019 - 15:36:

"= start with 9th stitch in size 7/8, then work diagram to the end, then repeat diagram from 1st stitch" Dear Drops! Do you mean I have to repeat the right part of M.1 twice?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 15:55:

Dear Ekaterina, in size 7/8 you first work the 4 last stitches in diagram (from the stitch with the arrow to the left/end of diagram), then repeat the 12 sts of diagram from 1st stitch (from the right towards the left) and finish round with the first 8 stitches in diagram (so that the pattern is nicely centered) : 4sts+ 12stsx12 repeats+ 8sts= 156 sts. Work then the first part of M.1 (with the arrows at the bottom), and when you have worked to the last row of this diagram, work now the 2nd part of diagram (the diagram on the left side). Happy knitting!

Ekaterina 07.10.2019 - 14:24:

Dear Drops! Could you help me with the following: M.1 -Should I begin it with the smaller part for 36 rows and then continue with the bigger one for 42 rows? What does the big arrow from M.1to M.1indicate? And one more question: I knit for size 7/8 - should I consider the 9th stitch as the first one for this size?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 15:00:

Dear Ekaterina, M.1 has been splitted into 2 parts to make it more visible, start working M.1 from the bottom part with the arrows (= start with 9th stitch in size 7/8, then work diagram to the end, then repeat diagram from 1st stitch), and when this part has been worked in height, continue with 2nd part of diagram (the one on the left side). Happy knitting!

Jocelyne Theberge 08.09.2019 - 09:40:

Dois-je tricoter les 288 mailles en côtes 2/2 avant de réaliser le M2 ?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Mme Theberge, tricotez M.2 sur toutes les 288 mailles pour former le petit volant du bas du débardeur; quand M.2 est terminé, il reste 144 mailles, continuez en tricotant les mailles comme elles se présentent (1 m env, 2 m end, 1 m env), répétez de (à) jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 5 cm. Bon tricot!

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