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  1. Free patterns
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  4. DROPS Children
  5. 22
  6. 32

Justus by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest with v-neck and cables in ”Alpaca”. Size 3 - 12 years.

Keywords: bottom up, cable, sleeveless, slipover, v-neck, vest

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DROPS Children 22-32
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-028-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-70-74-78-84 cm / 25"-27½"-29"-30 3/4"-33"
Full length: 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-250-300 g color no 3620, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 2.5 mm/US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca 		from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 4.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – all rows in diagram shows pattern from RS, 1 repetition = 24 sts in width.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to armholes and neck):
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st + 3 sts in stockinette st at the armhole and inside 1 st in garter st at the neck. All dec are done from RS.
Dec AFTER 4/1 st as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. Dec BEFORE 4/1 st as follows: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck edge):
Dec on each side of the 2 K sts mid front of neck as follows: Work until 1 st remains before the 2 K sts, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 212-224-240-252-268 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca. K 1 round, continue in rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm / 1½''.
Work next round as follows (insert a marker at beg of round):

SIZE 3/4 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 6 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 14, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 5 times, * K 8, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 8 times, K 8 = 186 sts.

SIZE 5/6 YEARS:
** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 6, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, * K 7, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, K 8 = 198 sts.

SIZE 7/8 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, K 2, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 3), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, then from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, * K 10, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, K 4 = 210 sts.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 4, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 6), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 2, * K 2 tog, K 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times = 222 sts.

SIZE 11/12 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 2, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 2, (K 2 tog, K 4), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 8, * K 2 tog, K 7 *, repeat from *-* a total of 12 times = 234 sts.

ALL SIZES:
There are now 186-198-210-222-234 sts on needle.

Work next round as follows: K 18-20-22-24-26, diagram M.1 (= 24 sts), K 24-26-28-30-32, diagram M.1, K 96-104-112-120-128. Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 24-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½". REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work next round as follows: bind off the first 6 sts for armhole, work as before over the next 96-102-108-114-120 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work in stockinette st over the last 78-84-90-96-102 sts (= back piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-84-90-96-102 sts. Work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in each side in GARTER ST – see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, dec 1 st in each side inside 4 sts - SEE DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat dec every other row a total of 7-8-9-10-11 times = 64-68-72-76-80 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 36-39-42-45-48 cm / 14 1/4"-15 1/4"-16½"-17 3/4"-19", bind off the middle 22-24-26-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder (= 21-22-23-24-25 sts) separately. Bind off when piece measures 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4".

FRONT PIECE:
= 96-102-108-114-120 sts. Continue pattern back and forth on needle as before and bind off for armholes as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 26-28-30-32-34 cm / 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13 3/8", slip the middle 6 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each side separately. Slip the sts in one side on to a stitch holder. Continue bind off for armholes – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st towards the neck inside 1 st - SEE DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec every other row a total of 8-9-10-11-12 times. After all bind off for armholes and dec for neck, 30-31-32-33-34 sts remain on shoulder. Continue pattern with 1 st in garter st in each side. When piece measures approx. 36½-39½-42½-45½-48½ cm / 14 1/4"-15½"-16 3/4"-17 3/4"-19" (adjust so that next row is from RS), dec 2 sts over each of the small cables and 5 sts over the large cable in the middle by K tog sts 2 by 2 = 21-22-23-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. On next row, bind off the remaining sts. Slip the stitches on the stitch holder back on needle and work as first side but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

ARMHOLE:
Pick up 92-100-108-116-124 sts inside 1 edge st around one armhole on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. (NOTE: If too few or too many sts have been knitted up, inc or dec evenly on 1st round.) Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 2 cm / 3/4'', then bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat around the other armhole.

NECK:
Pick up 128-136-144-152-160 sts (including sts on stitch holder at the front) inside 1 edge st around the neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. (NOTE: If too few or too many sts have been knitted up, inc or dec evenly on 1st round.) Work rib = K 2/P 2 – adjust so that 2 K sts are mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, dec 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid front – SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every round until finished measurements.
When neck edge measures 2 cm / 3/4'', bind off with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2,
K 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Laura wrote:

In het patroon staat voor het voorpand in zowel het NL als EN dat je moet afkanten zoals in het achterpand. Daar zijn echter geen steken afgekant (dat was de laatste nld body) maar geminderd. Als ik naar de stekenaantallen en antwoorden op al gestelde vragen kijk wordt bevestigd dat het om minderen en niet om afkanten gaat. Wellicht goed om dit aan te passen om verwarring te voorkomen.

05.01.2023 - 20:50

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Buonasera! Prima di iniziare questo gilet, vorrei sapere se in effetti il numero delle maglie è 240 per la tg 7/8, in quanto se 26 maglie sono 10 cm. (come da campione), 240 maglie corrispondono a circa 92cm. Penso che sia un po' troppo largo per un bimbo di 7-8 anni! Attendo ringraziando una Vostra cortese risposta. Buon proseguimento di giornata!

17.03.2022 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Lelletta, il numero di maglie è corretto, il modello inizia con il bordo a coste, e alla fine del bordo si diminuiscono le maglie. Buon lavoro!

18.03.2022 kl. 20:57

country flag Margit Lønborg wrote:

Hjælp! Jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe , når jeg efter ribkanten begynder på pind 1 til str 5/6 år. Hvordan hænger det sammen?

13.03.2021 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Margit. Du har 224 masker på pinnen og etter 1. omgang har du felt 26 masker = 198 masker. Det felles slik: ** 4 r, 2 r sm **, gjenta fra **-** totalt 4 ganger (her blir det felt 4 masker), [6 r, 2 r sm, 10 r, 2 r sm, 6 r (her blir det felt 2 masker)], 4 r, 2 r sm, 4 r, 2 r sm, 6 r, 2 r sm, 4 r, 2 r sm, 4 r (her blir det felt 4 masker), gjenta fra [-] 1 gang (her blir det felt 2 masker), 2 r sm (her felles 1 det maske), gjenta fra **-** totalt 3 ganger (her blir det felt 3 masker), * 7 r, 2 r sm *, gjenta fra *-* totalt 10 ganger (her blir det felt 10 masker), 8 r = 198 m. mvh DROPS design

15.03.2021 kl. 15:15

country flag PENNY KAISER wrote:

Can I use Millamia naturally soft merino for this and still get a reasonable fit?

27.09.2019 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kaiser, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store in Canada for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

30.09.2019 kl. 08:10

country flag Anna wrote:

Buongiorno Sto lavorando la prima misura, sto riprendendo il bordo del collo Lavorando a coste 2/2 termino con 2 mg a rovescio ,e non con due a diritto Non ho capito Grazie mille

29.03.2019 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Anna. Se ha ripreso 128 maglie e ha iniziato le coste con 2 maglie diritto, è corretto che finisca il giro con 2 maglie rovescio, così poi le coste proseguono correttamente con 2 maglie dir / 2 maglie rov. Verifichi anche di avere 2 maglie diritto al centro sul davanti. Buon lavoro!

29.03.2019 kl. 11:04

country flag Anna wrote:

Buona sera Sto lavorando la misura 3 anni Leggendo l'esecuzione quando dice: lavorare il giro successivo Chiudere le prime 6 maglie x lo scaldo,sarebbe che devo chiudere sulle 18 maglie? Non ho capito Grazie

22.03.2019 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna, su quel giro deve intrecciare (chiudere) le prime 6 maglie che formeranno lo scalfo, poi lavorare 96 maglie, intrecciare altre 6 maglie per l'altro scalfo, lavorare 78 maglie, e poi a questo punto lavorerà in piano e separatamente per il davanti e dietro. Buon lavoro!

22.03.2019 kl. 17:49

country flag Stephanie Lomax wrote:

I don’t understand the answer to the question I posted on 28/01/2018. What do ou mean by “start the first row on the front piece from the matching size”. Can you answer in more detail? Thanks for your quick response.

31.01.2018 - 00:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lomax, typo sorry, you start on the matching side (either RS or WS) so that the rows with pattern will be worked from RS. Happy knitting!

31.01.2018 kl. 08:43

country flag Stephanie Lomax wrote:

I’ve just started to work on the front piece which has to be worked back and forth instead of in the round. But the pattern stitches are worked in rows 2,4, 6 and 8. That was fine when working in the round but now these are wrong side rows. What to do?

28.01.2018 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Lomax, make sure to start the first row on front piece from the matching size so that row 2,4,6 and 8 will be now worked from RS. Happy knitting!

29.01.2018 kl. 10:08

country flag Gitte Johansen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maskeantallet på forstykket til at stemme til slut, hvis jeg også skal lukke 6 masker af til ærmegab i hver side på forstykket. Kan det passe? Jeg strikker den mindste str.. Håber du kan hjælpe mig!

07.04.2017 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gitte, i den mindste størrelse har du 96 m. Du sætter 6 m på en tråd og fortsætter med den ene side = 45m, tager ind til ærmegab - 7 og ind til hals - 8 = 30m, tager 2+5+2 masker ind over snoningerne = 21 tilbage. God fornøjelse!

26.04.2017 kl. 13:56

country flag Yan wrote:

Hello. I have a question.... do I start the dec on the same row when I do the 6 St casting off For the armhole right after completing the body? Or the row when it turns RS again? Please help.

07.12.2016 - 08:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yan, armholes are bound off on a RS row (last round on body), then turn piece and work next row from WS over sts on back piece only. Dec will then start on next row from RS. Happy knitting!

07.12.2016 kl. 09:28

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