DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 22-42
DROPS design: Pattern no U-052-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 60-66-72-76-82 cm / 23½"-26"-28½"-30"-32 1/4"-
Full length: 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 30, light denim blue:
200-200-250-300-350 g.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 3 mm/US 2or3 - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 144-156-168-180-192 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Karisma. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 round while at the same time dec 12 sts evenly = 132-144-156-168-180 sts. Continue with diagram M.1 until finished measurements - see arrow for where to beg in your size (this is important to make the pattern pretty mid front). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 24-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½", work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 29-32-35-38-41 sts (= left front piece), bind off 2 sts for neck, work 29-32-35-38-41 sts (= right front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work 60-66-72-78-84 sts (= back piece), bind off 3 sts for armhole, cut the yarn. Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 60-66-72-78-84 sts. Continue diagram M.1 back and forth on needle - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-3-2-3-3 times = 48-50-54-58-60 sts. When piece measures 35-38-41-44-47 cm / 13 3/4"-15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½", bind off the middle 20-20-22-22-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 st on every row starting from neck 2 times = 12-13-14-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 29-32-35-38-41 sts. Bind off for armhole as on back piece - AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st on every row starting from neck 11-11-12-12-13 times. After all bind offs, 12-13-14-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 37-40-43-46-49 cm / 14½"-15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4".

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth from mid front. Pick up approx. 80 to 100 sts around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 - beg mid front. Turn and K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 96-100-108-112-124 sts.
Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 st which is K on all rows, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 st which is K on all rows. When edge measures approx. 2-2½-2½-3-3 cm / 3/4"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8", bind off with K over K and P over P. Place the left part of neck edge over the right part and sew to bottom edge with neat stitches.

ARMHOLE EDGE:
Knit up approx. 70 to 90 sts around one armhole on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3. P 1 round while at the same time inc evenly to 80-88-92-100-104 sts. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 2 cm / 3/4'', then bind off with K over K and P over P.
Work the same way around the other armhole.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 22-42

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Annelie wrote:

Er det rigtigt, at der ved halsindtagning skal lukkes af på HVER pind . Selv når jeg tager hver anden( ved hver vending) syntes jeg det går stærkt .. Vh Annelie

15.03.2024 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annelie, hver pind som strikkes fra halsen, bliver til hver 2 pind. Strikker du i DROPS Karisma og har 22m og 30 pinde på 10 cm, så kommer det til at se ud som på billedet :)

19.03.2024 - 11:16

country flag Renette wrote:

Guten Abend, wie stricke ich im Muster weiter, wenn ich Maschen abkette? Gehören die fehlenden Maschen dann trotzdem noch „gedanklich“ dazu? Auf dem Bild sieht es so aus als wäre das Muster später nicht mehr exakt, z.B. gibt es den Teil mit den linken Zacken nur ein Mal und dann sieht es aus als wäre man einfach zum Perlmuster gewechselt.

21.02.2023 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Renette, das Muster stricken Sie nach abketten für Armausschnitt genauso wie zuvor, nur das Anfang vom Muster wird wegen Abketten verschieden sein, schreiben Sie auf dem Diagram welche Masche ist jetzt die erste und die letzte und so stricken Sie wie zuvor. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2023 - 08:33

country flag Rosette wrote:

Pour le modèle Lucas, je ne comprends pas pourquoi au dos il faut rabattre 2m pour l'encolure à hauteur des emmanchures et puis rien avant 12cm plus rien ? Merci

05.04.2022 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Rosette, pour l'encolure dos, vous rabattez les 20-20-22-22-24 m centrales, puis terminez chaque épaule séparément, en rabattant au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure (épaule gauche: sur l'endroit/épaule droite: sur l'envers) 2 fois 1 m = il reste 12 mailles. Vous rabattez les mailles de l'épaule 2 cm après avoir rabattu les mailles de l'encolure. Bon tricot!

06.04.2022 - 07:46

country flag Ursula Buß wrote:

Ich bin Dabei für meine Enkelin 11 Jahre, Größe 152/158; einen Pullunder mit Rundhalsausschnitt zu stricken. Ich habe jetzt die Armlochausschnitte gestrickt. Wann muss ich mit dem Halsausschnitt (etwas tiefer) anfangen? Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen und dank schon im Voraus herzlich dafür!! Liebe Grüße U.Buß

29.11.2021 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Buß, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen - aber gerne können Sie sich von einem Pullover mit der selben Maschenprobe in die richtige Größe inspirieren lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.11.2021 - 13:08

country flag Anjo wrote:

Design 22-24 Luca. Can you please tell me what size the boy in the picture is wearing. This would be a great help.

08.08.2021 - 12:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anjo, I would suggest that, instead of trying to calculate things based on a picture, check the measurements of the shcematic drawing, and compare to a oiece that fits to the child you are planning to knit too. Happy Stitching!

08.08.2021 - 23:14

country flag Tamara wrote:

Guten Tag, ich komme bei der Anleitung des Rückenteils nicht mehr weiter. In der Anleitung steht: nach 41 cm die mittleren 22 M für den Halsausschnitt Weiter 2 Mal 1 M für den Halsausschnitt abk. = 14 M. Ich verstehe nicht was oder wie ich da stricken soll. Danke für ihre Hilfe!

07.02.2019 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Tamara, Sie haben jetzt 54 M, und stricken die nächste Hinreihe wie folgt: 16 M, die nächsten 22 M abketten und die letzten 16 Maschen stricken, wenden, die Rückreihe stricken, wenden und am Anfang der Reihe vom Halsausschnitt 1 Masche abketten, bis zur Ende der Reihe stricken. Die 2 letzten Reihen wiederholen = 2 M wurden am Halsausschnitt abgekettet und es sind jetzt 14 M. für den Schulter. Weiter stricken bis 43 cm und abketten. Die Maschen vom 1. Schulter jetzt wie der 1. stricken (= Am Anfang einer Rückreihe muss es jetzt abgekettet sein). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.02.2019 - 15:51

Gisse wrote:

Hola! Mi pregunta es la siguiente en las instrucciones dice que debo de comenzar el esquema según la talla, eso quiere decir que si estoy haciendo la talla 7/8 mi inicio será en la hilera dónde está la flecha ? Espero me comprenda lo que quiero decir y antemano gracias!

01.09.2018 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Gisse. Para la talla 7/8 años debes siempre empezar la vuelta en el punto 9 de M.1 (contando de derecho a izquierda), trabajar hasta el final del diagrama y comenzar la siguiente repetición desde el principio del diagrama.

18.09.2018 - 11:29

country flag Sonja wrote:

In der deutschen Anleitung steht: Fell 3 M. für das Armloch, 29-32-35-38-41 M. stricken (= linkes Vorderteil) [...]. Hier wurde das Original wohl nicht übersetzt. Was ist hier gemeint? Vielen Dank schon einmal im Voraus für die Antwort! Sonja

03.09.2016 - 13:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sonja, die ersten 3 M müssen sie Abk, dann stricken Sie weiter wie beschrieben (Korrektur wird bald gemacht). Vielen Dank!

05.09.2016 - 08:55

country flag Mamynette wrote:

Bonjour, Je fais la taille 3/4 ans. Je me trouve donc avec 132 mailles après les cotes. Quand je fais le 2ème diagramme et que je commence par la 3ème case de votre diagramme je fais, si j'ai bien compris 9 mailles endroit et 1 maille envers, ceci jusqu'au bout. Mais quand je fais ma dernière maille envers, il me reste 2 mailles avant le début du rang. Cela ne semble pas normal. Que dois-je faire ? Merci

26.02.2016 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mamynette, c'est tout à fait juste, vous tricotez M.1 ainsi sur 132 m: Les 9 premières de M.1, puis 10 fois les 12 m de M.1, il reste 2 m à tricoter comme les 2 premières m de M.1. Bon tricot!

26.02.2016 - 10:57

country flag Petra wrote:

... hab ich in mehreren Größen und Farben für meine Enkel gestrickt. Alles passt - ein schönes Muster, ein guter Schnitt, "Karisma" ist bestens geeignet und die Kinder konnten sich die Farben auswählen. Die Westover sind gut angekommen und der Kleinste wollte ihn gar nicht mehr ausziehen :-)

05.09.2015 - 19:00