DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

DROPS 79-26

DROPS Cardigan in Alaska and Vienna; Hat in Alaska and Scarf in Snow

DROPS 79-26
Suggest a name
Cardigan:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 90-100-110-120-130 cm [35⅜" - 39⅜" - 43.25" - 47.25" - 51⅛"]
Waist: 82-92-102-112-122 cm [32.25" - 36.25" - 40⅛" - 44" - 48"]
Hem: 96-106-116-126-136 cm [37.75" - 41.75" - 45⅝" - 49⅝" - 53.5"]

Materials: DROPS ALASKA,
100% pure new wool, 50 g/75 m./82 yards
850-950-1050-1150-1250 gr nr 01, natural

and use: DROPS VIENNA
90% mohair, 10% polyester, 50 g./95 m./103 yards
50-50-50-50-50 gr nr 21, natural

DROPS 5 mm [US 8] and 5.5 mm [US 9] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Women Jackets & Cardigans Accessories Hats Scarves Earflap Hats bottom up collar sewn in sleeves stocking stitch v-neck

DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Vienna
91% Mohair, 9% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

CARDIGAN:

Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *.

Increasing tips (for the collar): Inc 1 st inside of 24 sts rib by knitting 2 sts in the same st – knit the increased sts in rib (= K 4, P 4) as you go along.

Back: Cast on 78-86-94-102-110 sts on smaller needles with Alaska. Knit rib as follows:
Row 1 (right side):
Sizes S, L and XXL: K1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side):
Sizes S, L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes M and XL: K1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 4 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
When the piece measures 6 cm change to larger needles and stockinette st.
When the piece measures 11-12-13-14-15 cm dec 1 st at each side every 5 cm 5 times = 68-76-84-92-100 sts. When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm inc 1 st at each side every 5 cm a total of 3 times = 74-82-90-98-106 sts.
When the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-4 times = 58-60-60-62-66 sts. When the piece measures 72-74-76-78-80 cm bind off the center 14-16-16-16-18 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 21-21-21-22-23 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 74-76-78-80-82 cm.

Left front: Cast on 57-61-65-69-73 sts on smaller needles with Alaska.
Knit rib as follows (beginning of row is the side):
Row 1 (right side):
Sizes S, L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 4 and 4 sts garter st.
Sizes M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with 4 sts garter st.
Row 2 (wrong side):
Sizes S, L and XXL: 4 sts garter st, K 4, * P 4, K 4 *, finish with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st)
Sizes M and XL: 4 sts garter st, * K4, P 4*, finish with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st)
Knit rib for 6 cm, then change to larger needles and stockinette st but keep 24 sts at the center front in rib and garter st as established. On the 1st row dec 2-3-3-3-4 sts evenly distributed over the sts in stockinette st = 55-58-62-66-69 sts.
When the piece measures 11-12-13-14-15 cm dec at the side as on back and when the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm inc at the side as on back = 53-56-60-64-67 sts.
Read the entire section before knitting:
Collar: When the piece measures 50-52-54-55-56 cm inc 1 st inside of the 24 sts at the center front for collar - see Increasing tips: 16 times on alternately every other and every 4th row.
Armhole: When the piece measures 54-55-56-57-58 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
Neckband: When the piece measures 74-76-78-80-82 cm bind off the outermost 21-21-21-22-23 sts for shoulder and put the remaining 40 collar sts on a st holder.

Right front: Cast on and knit the same as the left, reversing all shaping.

Sleeve: Cast on 42-42-50-50-50 sts on smaller needles with Vienna. Knit 2 rows garter st, change to Alaska. Knit rib as follows:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), P 2, * K 4, P 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 4, P 2, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side):
K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 2, * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 4, K 2, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
When the piece measures 10 cm knit 2 rows garter st with Vienna. Then change to larger needles and Alaska and continue the rib as follows - seen from the right side: K 1 (edge st), K 2, * P 4, K 4 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 4, K 2, K 1 (edge st).
When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 5-3.5-4.5-3-2.5 cm a total of 8-10-8-10-12 times – knit the increased sts in stockinette st = 58-62-66-70-74 sts. When sleeve measures 49-48-46-44-43 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 1-5-6-8-9 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Collar: Pick up from wrong side as follows: put collar sts from left front on larger needles, pick up 20-22-22-22-24 sts around back neck and put collar sts from right front on needles = 100-102-102-102-104 sts. Knit 2 rows garter st over all sts, increasing 16-14-14-14-12 sts on the 1st row evenly distributed over the 20-22-22-22-24 sts picked up at back neck = 116 sts. Then knit rib over all sts (keeping 4 sts at each front edge in garter st) for 4 cm, then K 1 row from wrong side, then K another row and bind off. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.
Fringe: Fasten fringe tufts along the collar and along button bands to 20 cm from lower edge on both fronts, at 5 cm intervals. 1 fringe tuft = cut 2 strands Vienna and 4 strands Alaska 35 cm long, hold together, fold in half and pull loop through outermost st, pull ends through loop.

Belt: Cast on 16 sts on smaller needles with Alaska. Knit all rows as follows (both right side and wrong side rows): sl 1, K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 2. Bind off in rib when belt measures approx. 120-130 cm.

HAT:

Sizes: S/M - M/L

Materials: Garnstudio ALASKA,
100% pure new wool, 50 g/75 m./82 yards
150-150 gr nr 02, natural

DROPS 5 mm [US 8] straight and double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Earflap: Cast on 5-5 sts and knit garter st. After 1 row inc 1 st at each side every other row 4-4 times and then every 4 rows 4-5 times = 21-23 sts – make incs by making a yo inside of 1 st at each side, on the next row twist and knit the yo so that there will not be a hole. The earflap measures approx. 8-9 cm. Set piece aside and knit a second earflap.

Hat: Put one earflap on needle, cast on 18-19 new sts (= back) and put the other earflap on the same needle = 60-65 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st back and forth over all sts, and inc 1 st at each side every other row a total of 2 times. On the next row cast on 26-27 sts between earflaps for the front and join = 90-96 sts. Then knit hat in the round on double-pointed needles starting at center back - measure the work from here. Knit 6 rows garter st over all sts, then change to stockinette st. When hat measures 9 cm P 1 row, K 3 rows and P 1 row, then continue in stockinette st to finished measurements. After the last P row (the piece measures approx. 11 cm) put 6 markers in work with 15-16 sts between each marker. Then dec 1 st on the right side of each marker by K 2 tog every other row: 11-12 times and then every 4 rows: 3-3 times = 6 sts remain. Knit 2 more rows, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts, fasten neatly. Hat measures approx. 27-28 cm at front.

Braids: Fasten 1 braid at lower edge of each earflap and 1 at the top of hat. 1 braid = cut 12 strands 70 cm long. Fold strands double and pull loop through over 2 rows at lower edge of earflap, pull ends through loop. Divide strands into 3 bundles of 8 strands and braid together loosely, make a knot at end. Repeat on the other earflap and at the top of hat – at the top of the hat pull loop through the top row.

SCARF:

Measurements: approx. 16 x 110 cm [6.25" x 43.25"]

Materials: Garnstudio SNOW, 100% wool, 50 g./50 m./54 yds
150 gr nr 17, beige/blue variegated

DROPS 10 mm [US 15] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 9 sts x 18 rows garter st = 10 x 10 cm.

Scarf: Cast on 14 sts loosely. Knit garter st until the piece measures 110 cm, bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (13)

Biggi wrote:

Hallo nochmal, ich stricke in Masche 25 eine rechts und eine rechts verschränkt, richtig ? LG

06.03.2021 - 07:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Biggi, ja genau, dieses Video zeigt, wie man 2 Mal die selbe Masche strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2021 - 07:35

Hallo ihr lieben. Welche Masche genau muss ich für den Kragen aufnehmen ? Ich kann ja nicht im Wechsel vier rechts ist links bleiben wenn ich irgendwo innerhalb der 24 maschen zwei maschen in eine stricke. Hilfe bitte, ich steh auf dem Schlauch

06.03.2021 - 07:15

Liebe Biggi, die Zunahmen für den Kragen stricken Sie innerhalb die 24 Maschen = die 25. Masche wird zweimal gestrickt (bei der nächsten Zunahmen wird die 26. Masche zweimal gestrickt usw) und diese Zunahmen werden fortlaufend ins Bündchen gestrickt - also nach und nach wird sich das Bündchen 4 M re, 4 M li weiter gestrickt, wenn die 16 Zunahmen fertig sind, haben Sie 4 Mal mehr das Bündchen gestrickt . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2021 - 07:34

Monica wrote:

Sono arrivata a fare le maniche e mi chiedo se 58 cm di manica, considerato che se ne risvoltano 10, non sia troppo corto. Se volessi allungarla devo aggiungere dei ferri prima o dopo la serie di aumenti? Grazie

30.11.2016 - 15:50

Buongiorno Monica, se vuole fare le maniche più lunghe, aggiunga dei ferri prima degli aumenti. Buon lavoro!

30.11.2016 - 16:05

Paola wrote:

Lo spazio per scrivere i commenti e/o domande è troppo corto: si possono digitare solo un certo numero di caratteri, e diventa difficile porre le domande con queste limitazioni.

05.11.2016 - 16:59

Per le maniche. Tutte le m. di aum le faccio tutte sul lato del dir, ma aumentando di tot volte, 8 volte,ad un certo punto mi ritrovo tipo: 1 viv a leg, 4 m di aum a dir, lavorazione coste, 4 m aum dir, 1 viv leg. La parte finale della manica, su entrambi i lati, a m rasata, diventa molto più grossa di larghezza di una costa (quando andrò a cucire i due bordi della manica avrò due lati a dritto grandi come la costa e quindi non ci sarà l'alternanza). E' giusto?

05.11.2016 - 16:58

Buongiorno Paola. Sì è corretto come ha scritto: le m aumentate vengono lavorate a maglia rasata. Buon lavoro!

05.11.2016 - 18:32

Sono al 12 cm della manica, quando bisogna iniziare a fare gli aumenti. Ma mi domando: visto che siamo partiti con la maglia di vivagno , la maglia di aumento, dove la metto? Per esempio, partendo con il ferro, se faccio: maglia vivagno legaccio, maglia di aumento, lavorazione ferro a coste, maglia di aumento, maglia di vivagno a legaccio, sbaglio? Grazie mille.

23.10.2016 - 08:18

Buongiorno Paola. È corretto. Aumenta dopo / prima le m vivagno. Buon lavoro!

23.10.2016 - 08:30

Kim wrote:

Het is mij niet duidelijk aan welke kant van de 24 boord steken, ik moet gaan meerderen voor de kraag. Moet ik voor de vier ribbel steken meerderen of voor de boord steken? Mvg

24.11.2015 - 14:24

Hoi Petra. Je meerdert naast de 24 boordsteken. Niet middenvoor maar naast de boordsteken.

25.11.2015 - 14:48

Diane wrote:

Est-ce que la grosseur des aiguilles proposées pour vos patron sont en mm

16.02.2014 - 21:06

Bonjour Diane, tout à fait, la taille des aiguilles est indiquée en mm, système métrique habituel pour la taille des aiguilles en France. Bon tricot!

17.02.2014 - 10:17

Céline wrote:

Bonjour je suis rendu a la fin de mon bonnet et lorsque vous dite de 1 maille a toute les 4 rangs 3 foir et cela égale 6maille, est ce que cela veux dire 6 mailles entre marqueur ou 6 maille en tout merci

26.10.2012 - 16:51

Bonjour Céline, à la fin du bonnet, vous placez 6 marqueurs et vous diminuez 1 m à droite de chaque marqueur 11-12 fois tous les 2 rangs, puis 3 fois tous les 4 rangs. vous avez 6 marqueurs, donc vous diminuez 6 m à chaque tour de diminutions. Bon tricot !

30.10.2012 - 12:01

Merci beaucoup j ai tres bien compris

23.10.2012 - 01:19