DROPS / 122 / 41

Winter Moss by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in ”Alpaca” with short raglan sleeves and Norwegian pattern. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-529
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-102-112-122-132 cm / 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-40"-44"-48"-52"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150-200-200-200-250-250 g color no 4010, pearl gray
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 7815m, green/turquoise mix
50-50-50-50-50-50 g, color no 7323m, gray/green mix

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 3 mm/US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 – entire pattern worked in stockinette st.


Worked in the round.
Cast on 350-380-410-450-490-530 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with green/turquoise mix. Work 3 rounds rib, K2/P3. On next round dec all P3 to P2 = 280-304-328-360-392-424 sts and continue with K2/P2. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. Work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME K tog every 3rd and 4th st = 210-228-246-270-294-318 sts. Work 1 vertical repeat M.1 and then continue in pearl gray. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME on round 2 after M.1 dec 28 sts evenly = 182-200-218-242-266-290 sts. Insert a marker each side (= 91-100-109-121-133-145 sts on front and back piece). When piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9'' inc 1 st each side of both markers. Repeat the inc on every 8th round a total of 7 times = 210-228-246-270-294-318 sts. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'' bind off 12 sts each side (i.e. 6 sts each side of marker) = 93-102-111-123-135-147 sts left on front and back piece.

Worked in the round on small circular needle. Cast on 96-104-108-116-124-128 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 with pearl gray. Work rib, K2/P2 for 2 cm / 3/4'' and work next round as follows from RS:
* K4, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 6-2-0-2-4-2 sts remain, K these = 81-87-90-97-104-107 sts. On next round bind off the first 12 sts = 69-75-78-85-92-95 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve edge.

Slip sleeve edges on the same circular needle as body pieces where bind off for armhole = 324-354-378-416-454-484 sts. Round now beg in transition between one of the sleeves and back piece. K 1 round with pearl gray, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-12-18-20-22-16 sts evenly = 306-342-360-396-432-468 sts. Work 0-2-5-1-4-7 rounds in pearl gray before continuing in M.2 – see diagram for your size. After M.2 there are 119-133-140-132-144-156 sts on needle. Now complete piece in pearl gray. Insert a marker mid back and now work elevation as follows: K 8 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten thread and P 16 sts, turn, tighten thread and K 24 sts, turn. Continue like this with 8 more sts before each turn until you have knitted over a total of 96-96-112-112-112-128 sts, turn and K 1 row to mid back. K 1 round on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 112-116-120-124-128-132 sts.

Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and work 5 rounds rib, K2/P2 with pearl gray. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

Sew tog openings under sleeves.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= pearl gray
= gray/green mix
= green/turquoise mix
= K2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 122-41) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Marlene 04.06.2019 - 16:11:

Buenos días. Antes que nada me gustaría felicitarlos por los hermosos diseños que publican. Y quisiera consultar acerca de las agujas circulares que utilizan en la mayoría de las prendas y que no se consiguen facilmente en mi localidad. Hay alguna forma de adaptar los patrones para tejerlos con dos agujas? Gracias

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 17:27:

Hola Marlene! Tiene que ver lección DROPS: AQUI. Buen trabajo!

Karin 07.11.2018 - 15:48:

Ich hänge an den verkürzten Reihen. Ich verstehe nicht ganz, wo ich dort ansetzen muss. Setze ich einen neuen Faden an der Markierung hinten an und stricke dann hin und her? Wie komme ich überhaupt zu den 96 Maschen? Wenn ich 96 Maschen abzähle, dann gehen die verkürzten Reihen bis zum vorderen Halsausschnitt (was auf dem Foto aber definitiv nicht zu sehen ist). Warum müssen so viele Maschen am Ende abgenommen werden?

DROPS Design 07.11.2018 kl. 16:00:

Liebe Karin, die verkürzten Reihen beginnen hingen am mittleren Rückenteil, hier eine Markierung einsetzen und jetzt hin- und zurückstricken: 8 M re bei der 1. Hinreihe, wenden 16 M. li. bei der 2. Reihe (=Rückreihe), und dann immer 8 Maschen mehr stricken = bei der 3. Reihe stricken Sie 16+8= 24 M re, bei der 4. Reihe 24+8= 32 M. li usw bis 96 M gestrickt wurden. Siehe auch dieses Video. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sandra 03.08.2018 - 15:30:

I am trying to work out how to work the M.1 chart. 210 sts divided by 12 sts in M.1 = 17.5 repeats? Please tell me what I am missing. Thank you!

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 08:26:

Dear Sandra, you will repeat 17 times M.1 and then work the first 6 sts (= half repeat) in M.1. Happy knitting!

Hannoy 21.03.2018 - 17:44:

Je viens de terminer ce tricot ; les couleurs , la taille , les explications très bien ; je suis contente . merci à votre équipe . Une question technique : faut-il faire un "blocage" ou repassage patte mouille pour le jacquard?

DROPS Design 06.04.2018 kl. 09:53:

Bonjour Mme Hannoy, vous pouvez laver et sécher le pull (en suivant bien les indications de l'étiquette + les consignes générales), le jacquard n'en sera que plus beau. Bon tricot!

Caroline 22.02.2018 - 21:12:

I've just finished this project, it was really easy to follow the pattern.

Dagmar 10.10.2017 - 09:07:

Tippfehler: In der letzten Reihe der Anleitung "Passe" muss es nicht heißen "Die Arbeit drehen und re. bis hinten in die Mitte stricken. 1 R. stricken und gleichzeitig gleichmässig verteilt 112-116-120-124-128-132 M. abn." sondern: 12-16-20-24-28-32 Es blieben sonst für Gr. L nur 20 M übrig, um damit den AUsschnitt zu arbeiten, und das wäre doch arg eng.

DROPS Design 10.10.2017 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Dagmar, die letzte verkürzte Reihe wird bis rechts (= Vorderseite/Hinreihe) bis hinten in der Mitte gestrickt (mitte Rückenteil), und dann von hier (= Beginn der Runde) 1 Runde über alle Maschen stricken und gleichzeitig gleichmässig verteilt 112-116-120-124-128-132 M. abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hege Myhre 14.11.2016 - 14:48:

Hvordan finner jeg ut hvilken størrelse jeg skal strikke denne i?

DROPS Design 14.11.2016 kl. 16:16:

Hei Hege. Se maalskitsen nederst. Her er alle maal i cm per störrelse. Og laes her hvordan du vaelger din störrelse. God fornöjelse.

Katharina 28.05.2016 - 16:28:

Hallöchen, Ich habe eine kurze Frage. Wahrscheinlich bin ich einfach Strickblind.....ich bin gerade bei den verkürzten Reihen angekommen und da steht man soll an der hinteren Mitte einen Faden einziehen, um von dort die verkürzten Reihen zu beginnen. Aber WO ist die hintere Mitte? Als ich das letzte Mal eine Markierung einziehen sollte war das der neue Reihen Beginn zwischen Rückenteil und Ärmel. Wie viele Maschen werden denn den Ärmeln nach M2 zugerechnet? Lg Katharina

DROPS Design 30.05.2016 kl. 09:11:

Liebe Katharina, die hintere Mitte ist in der Mitte des Rückenteils. Die verkürzten Reihen müssen symmetrisch sein und werden daher (als Ausgangspunkt für die Markierung) dort begonnen. Die Maschenzahl der Ärmel brauchen Sie für die Ermittlung der hinteren Mitte nicht.

Katharina 25.05.2016 - 22:11:

Guten Abend. Ich bin gerade bei der Passe und in Reihe 35 passt das Muster leider nicht mehr mit der Anzahl der vorhandenen Maschen überein. Wenn ich die Abnahmen wie angezeigt vornehme kommt das Muster durcheinander. Vielleicht könnte da noch mal drüber geschaut werden, oder gibt es eine andere Möglichkeit? Lg

DROPS Design 30.05.2016 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Katharina, ich kann mir im Moment nicht ganz erkären, wo der Fehler liegt, aber ich selbst habe dieses Modell schon nachgestrickt und es hat alles gepasst. Können Sie nochmals alles genau kontrollieren?

Sunny N. 19.03.2016 - 20:48:

I believe that this pattern is very lovely for sure! But, the picture shows a long sleeve and it is misleading... if you have a pattern it should be a picture of the pattern... The newer knitters would be confused... but I love the colorwork and it will be fun to knit! Thank you!! Sunny

DROPS Design 19.03.2016 kl. 22:34:

Dear Sunny, the picture is really misleading a bit - there is T-shirt under the jumper, but it has so similar colour, that it seems like long sleeved... :-) Happy knitting!

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