DROPS / 80 / 6

DROPS 80-6 by DROPS Design

DROPS Pullover in Karisma Superwash and Vivaldi, Scarf in Vienna

Pullover:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-112-124 cm [34 5/8" - 37.75" - 41" - 44" - 48 7/8"]
Hem: 82-90-98-108-116 cm [32.25" - 35 3/8" - 38 5/8" - 42.5" - 45 5/8"]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450 gr nr 55, light brown

and use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200 gr nr 06, natural

DROPS 5.5 mm [US 9] and 7 mm [US 10½] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PULLOVER:

Gauge: 14 sts x 17 rows on larger needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Vivaldi in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib-1: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *.

Rib-2: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Knitting tips (for neckband):
All neck decs are made from right side. Dec 1 st inside 3 edge sts knit as follows (seen from the right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1.
Before 3 edge sts: K 2 tog.
After 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso

Front:
Cast on 59-65-71-77-83 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Vivaldi. Knit Rib-1 for 3 cm as follows:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *, finish with K 3, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - *, finish with P 3, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Change to larger needles and stockinette st, with Pattern (see chart) over the center 21 sts (row 1 of chart is the right side). When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 12-12-12-12-8 cm a total of 2-2-2-2-3 times = 63-69-75-81-89 sts.
Read the entire next section before knitting:
Armhole: When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-3-3-3-4 times.
V-neck: When the piece measures 41-42-44-45-47 cm – adjust so that you have at least 5 rows after a cable – bind off then center st for the V-neck and put half the sts on a st holder.
1st side: dec 1 st for the neck (see knitting tip) every other row 7-7-8-8-9 times.
After all armhole and neck shaping is complete 18-19-19-19-19 sts remain on shoulder. Continue in stockinette st keeping 1 st in garter st, K 1 and P 1 at neck edge to finished measurements. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.
2nd side: Put sts on st holder back on needles and knit the same as 1st side, reversing shaping. Note: begin row 1 from center front. Start by picking up 1 st in the bound off st and K tog with the 1st st on row. This reinforces the bottom of the V-neck.

Back: Cast on as on front and knit Rib-1 for 3 cm as follows:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * and finish with P 3, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st). Change to larger needles and stockinette st over all sts (do not knit the pattern on the back). When the piece measures 12 cm inc at each side as on front = 63-69-75-81-89 sts. Bind off for armhole as on front = 51-53-55-55-57 sts until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59 cm. Now knit 2 rows with Rib-2 (start with P 1) over the center 19-19-21-21-23 sts (knit the remaining sts in stockinette st). Then bind off the center 13-13-15-15-17 sts in rib. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge (see knitting tips) = 18-19-19-19-19 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue in stockinette st keeping 1 st in garter st, K 1 and P 1 (seen from the right side) at neck edge. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-38-38-44-44 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Vivaldi. Knit Rib-1 for 3 cm, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st. When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 7-5.5-4-5-3.5 cm a total of 6-7-9-7-9 times = 50-52-56-58-62 sts. When sleeve measures 50-49-47-46-44 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-2 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 57 cm, then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one, using edge sts as seam allowance.
Embroidered sts: Embroider diagonal sts around the neck and down center front at each side of Pattern with 2 strands Vivaldi over 2 sts in width and 5 rows in height.





SCARF:

Measurement: approx. 20 x 180 cm [7-7/8" x 70 7/8"]

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
100 gr nr 21, natural

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge..

Gauge: 11 sts in pattern = 10 cm in width

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side. The 1st row is the right side.

Scarf: Cast on 22 sts with 2 strands yarn. Take away one strand and knit 4 rows garter st, then knit Pattern, keeping 2 sts in garter st at each side. When scarf measures approx. 179 cm, knit 4 rows garter st over all sts and then bind off with double strands of yarn.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit (as seen from the right side)
= purl (as seen from the right side)
= Put 5 sts on cable needle in front of work, K 5, K 5 from cable needle.
= Put 5 sts on cable needle in back of work, K 5, K 5 from cable needle.
= purl from wrong side.
= yo
= K 2 tog.
= Slip 1 st as if to knit, knit K 1, psso.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 80-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Michelle Verbruggen 21.03.2019 - 10:51:

Merci pour votre réponse ! Très belle journée à vous ! Michelle

Michelle Verbruggen 20.03.2019 - 16:42:

Faut-il faire une maille lisière tout au long du pull , même les rangs avec diagramme ? Merci déjà pour votre réponse !

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 08:53:

Bonjour Mme Verbruggen, vous continuez avec une maille lisière de chaque côté tout du long (ces mailles lisières sont comprises dans le nombre total de mailles) pour les coutures des côtés. Bon tricot!

Marga 28.11.2018 - 15:24:

Maar van 1 soort zijn maar 3 bollen, dan heb ik toch te weinig terwijl ik van die andere 9 bollen moest hebben

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 13:02:

Dag Marga,>

Vivaldi heeft een looplengte van 280 meter, dus heb je met 3 bollen 840 meter. Dit garen loopt dus heel erg uit en is veel minder snel 'op' tijdens het breien dan Karisma.

Marga 28.11.2018 - 08:22:

Het lijkt alsof de trui met 2 draden wordt gebreid, maar dat lijkt mij niet logisch, klopt dat? "Voorpand: Zet 59-65-71-77-83 st op met breinld 5.5 mm en 1 draad Karisma + 1 draad Vivaldi. "

DROPS Design 28.11.2018 kl. 12:21:

Dag Marga,

Ja hoor, dat klopt. Je breit de hele trui wordt met 2 draden gebreid; van elke kwaliteit 1 draad.

Daphne 03.11.2018 - 07:27:

The embroidery stitch, what kind of stitch is it? Blanket stitch, eyelet stitch, I cannot seem to figure it out but it looks good in the picture.

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 08:46:

Dear Daphne, not sure how this is called, you simply embroider diagonal stitches along the neck and on each side of the cable on mid front. Happy finishing!

Nathy 15.10.2018 - 12:36:

Bonjour, J'ai tricoté comme vous me l'avais expliqué mais le faite de tricoter 2 mailles ensemble et tricoté ensuite les 3 mailles restantes et bien mes mailles se place mal , elle sont tordues à moins que je fais une erreur en tricotant Je vous remercie beaucoup d'avance Nathy

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 14:06:

Bonjour Nathy, montrez votre ouvrage à votre magasin (envoyez-lui une photo par mail si besoin), ils pourront vous aider plus facilement en voyant ce que vous avez fait. Bon tricot!

Nathy 14.10.2018 - 11:19:

Bonjour, Quand je diminue en fin de rang je tricotes jusqu a ce qu il retes 5 mailles et on tricote 2 mailles ensemble on obtient 3m et bien sa me fait des mailles de travers alors je ne sait pas comment faire Par avance merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 09:50:

Bonjour Nathy, pour l'encolure du côté gauche, vous tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 mailles, et tricotez 2 m ens à l'end puis les 3 dernières m comme avant. Pour l'encolure du côté droit, vous tricotez les 3 premières m de bordure comme avant et diminuez (glissez 1 m, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée). Bon tricot!

Nathy 03.10.2018 - 13:18:

Bonjour, J'ai vraiment du mal avec ce modèle Puis rabat les 13 mailles centrales en côte ça veut dire quoi en côtes généralement on rabat les mailles centrales en les tricotant en jersey Merci d avance Nathy

DROPS Design 03.10.2018 kl. 13:36:

Bonjour Nathy, vous avez tricoté 2 rangs de côtes sur les mailles de l'encolure, vous les rabattez comme elles se présentent - cf vidéo ci-dessous: les m end à l'end et les m env à l'envers. Bon tricot!

Nathy Le Minier 02.10.2018 - 13:24:

Bonjour Je voudrais avoir une confirmation concernant la réponse de mon mail du 01/10/18 , quand vous dites 1 m lis au point mousse sur le côté cela veut dire que l'on tricote la 1ere maille au point de mousse du rang à l'endroit et on la tricote à l'endroit sur l'envers puis 2 mailles en côte (1 end et 1 env.) côté encolure ( si j'ai bien compris) merci beaucoup Nathy

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 15:55:

Bonjour Mme Le Minier, après relecture, on doit tricoter côté encolure (2 mailles en côtes comme avant et terminer par 1 m lis au point mousse). Bon tricot!

Le Minier 01.10.2018 - 13:01:

Bonjour , Je ne comprends pas quand elle dit à 1 m ou 3 mailles des bords . Diminuer 1 m à 3 m des bords ainsi (vu sur l’endroit) : 1 m lis au point mousse, 1 m end, 1 m env Avant les 3 m de bordure : 2 m ens à l’end Après les 3 m de bordure Merci beaucoup pour votre aides Nathy

DROPS Design 01.10.2018 kl. 13:44:

Bonjour Nathy, pour l'encolure devant, on 1 maille à 3 m du bord: en début de rang on tricote 3 m puis on diminue 1 m, en fin de rang, on tricote jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 m, on tricote 2 m ens à l'end et on termine par 3 m. Bon tricot!

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