DROPS / 111 / 3

Cookie Crush by DROPS Design

DROPS tailored dress in ”Safran” with lace pattern and crochet borders.

  • Cookie Crush / DROPS 111-3 - DROPS tailored dress in ”Safran” with lace pattern and crochet borders.
Size: XS – S – M – L – XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-82-88-100-110-120 cm /
30¾”-32¼”-34 5/8”-39 3/8”-43 3/8”-47¼”
Full length: 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm /
33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35½”-36¼”-37”-37¾”

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
color no 01, light pink: 250-300-300-350-400-450 g
color no 21, beige: 100-100-100-100-100-100 g
color no 22, light brown: 50 - 50 - 50- 50 -100-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/ US E/4.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.15$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4 – the diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st on each side of marker.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
NOTE: Make sure not to shift the P sts in M.2 when decreasing.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Make all dec from RS inside 4 garter sts.
Dec as follows after 4 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 4 garter sts: K2 tog.
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DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom edge towards the top.
Cast on 252-264-276-300-312-336 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with beige. P 1 round and continue in M.1.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 change to pink and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24 sts evenly = 228-240-252-276-288-312 sts. Continue in M.2. When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾’’-10¼’’-10 5/8’’-11’’-11 3/8’’-11¾’’ insert 6 markers in piece as follows: Work 35-37-39-43-45-49 sts, insert Marker-1, work 44-46-48-52-54-58 sts insert Marker-2, work 35-37-39-43-45-49 sts insert Marker-3 (= the side), work 35-37-39-43-45-49 sts insert Marker-4, work 44-46-48-52-54-58 sts insert Marker-5, work 35-37-39-43-45-49 sts insert Marker-6 (= the side).
On next round dec 1 st on each side of Marker-3 and -6 (i.e. at the sides) – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – and repeat the dec on every 6th round a total of 12 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when doing the 7th dec, also dec 1 st on each side of the other markers as follows: AFTER Marker-1 and Marker-4 and BEFORE Marker-2 and Marker-5 – SEE DECREASING TIP-1. Repeat these dec on every 6th round (i.e. on the same rounds as dec at the sides) a total of 6 times.
When all dec are complete there are 156-168-180-204-216-240 sts on round. Now remove Marker-1, -2, -4 and -5.
Continue in M.2 until piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾’’-20’’-20½’’-21’’-21¼’’-21 5/8’’. Change to light beige, K 1 round and continue in M.3. After M.3 change back to pink and continue in M.4, AT THE SAME TIME inc 12-12-12-12-24-24 sts evenly on first round (= 6-6-6-12-12-12 sts on front and back piece) – SEE INCREASING TIP = 168-180-192-216-240-264 sts. After 8 rounds inc 1 st on each side of both markers at the sides – SEE INCREASING TIP – and repeat the inc on every 6th round a total of 3 times = 180-192-204-228-252-276 sts – work the inc sts in stockinette st until they fit into M.4.

NOW READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

NECKLINE: When piece measures approx 65-66-67-68-69-70 cm / 25½”-26”-26 3/8”-26¾”-27 1/8”-27½” (adjust to at least 2 rounds stockinette st after a lace-round) work 2 rounds garter st – see above – on 2 sts mid front (work remaining sts as before), then 2 rounds garter st on 4 sts mid front, then 2 rows garter st on 6 sts mid front and then 2 rounds garter st on 8 sts mid front. Now divide the piece for neck in the middle of the garter sts and continue back and forth on needle from mid front. Continue in M.4 with 4 garter sts each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st each side to shape the neckline – SEE DECREASING TIP-2, on every other row a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times and then on every 4th row a total of 6-6-6-6-7-7 times.

ARMHOLE: When piece measures 68-69-70-71-72-73 cm / 26¾”-27 1/8”-27½”-28”-28 3/8”-28¾” work 4 rows garter st on 14-14-16-20-24-28 sts each side (= 7-7-8-10-12-14 sts on each side of marker), work remaining sts as before. Now bind off the middle 6-6-8-12-16-20 of these sts each side for armhole and complete each piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Continue in M.4 with 4 garter sts each side – continue dec for neck – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the side on every other row as follows: 1 st a total of 3-4-4-7-9-11 times – SEE DECREASING TIP-2. When all dec are complete there are 21-23-24-25-25-27 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures approx 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm / 33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35½”-36¼”-37”-37¾” – adjust to after at least 2 rows stockinette st.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: Like right front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE: = 84-90-94-102-110-118 sts.
Continue in M.4 with 4 garter sts each side, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 78-82-86-88-92-96 sts. When piece measures 83-85-87-89-91-93 cm / 32¾”-33½”-34¼”-35”-35¾”-36 5/8” work 4 rows garter st on the middle 40-40-42-42-46-46 sts (work remaining sts as before). Now bind off the middle 32-32-34-34-38-38 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st towards neckline on every other row 2 times – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 = 21-23-24-25-25-27 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures approx 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm / 33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35½”-36¼”-37”-37¾” - adjust to after at least 2 rows stockinette st.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

LACE BORDER: Worked in the round along cast on row, with light brown and crochet hook size 3.5 mm / US E/4.
ROUND 1: 1 sc in each st = 252-264-276-300-312-336 sc.
ROUND 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the first 5 sc, * 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sc *, repeat from *-* until 7 sc remain, work 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the last 5 sc.
ROUND 3: 2 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 2 sc, * crochet as follows in ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, then skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 2 sc *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-loop and 5 sc remain, crochet as follows in ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, and finish with 1 ch and 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 4: 3 ch, skip 1 ch and 2 sc, * 1 bobble in next ch (1 bobble = crochet 3 dc tog. i.e. wait with the last pull through in each dc until all 3 dc have been crochet, yarn over hook, pull thread through all 4 sts on hook),
/ 1 ch, 1 bobble in next ch repeat from / - a total of 4 times (= 5 bobbles in total), 2 ch, 1 sc in 3-ch-loop, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 5 ch with dc between each + 2 sc and 1 ch remain, crochet 1 bobble + 1 ch in each of the first 5 ch, after the last ch work 1 ch, then skip 2 sc, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.
ROUND 5: 1 ch, * 2 sc in ch-loop, / 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 sc in first ch), 1 sc in next ch-loop , repeat from / - a total of 5 times, 1 sc in the same ch-loop *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
Cut and fasten thread.

PICOT BORDER: Crochet with light brown and crochet hook size 3.5 mm / US E/4 in first P round on dress – the picot border sits over the lace border. Hold garment with cast on row facing away from you and crochet the picot border in the lower loop of P sts as follows: 1 sc in first st,
* 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 sc in first ch), skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*.
Also crochet a picot border in the top P row in M.1. Hold garment with the cast on row facing away and crochet in the lower loop of P sts.
Also crochet a picot border on each side of M.3 – when crocheting in the lower P row hold the cast on row facing away from you and when crocheting in the upper P row turn piece so that the top part of piece is facing away from you.
Crochet a similar picot border round neckline and armholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 111-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (106)

country flag Jette Etly Bindere 21.03.2020 - 11:36:

Hej Jeg vil så gerne stikke den, men som bluse i stedet. Hvor mange masker skal jeg starte med, hvis jeg vil have den går til ca midt på hoften - dvs ca 25-30 cm kortere?

country flag Cecilia 18.10.2019 - 15:08:

Jag blev fundersam över var jag ska avmaska för halsringen.

user icon DROPS Design 18.10.2019 kl. 15:23:

Hej Cecilia, se beskrivningen under HALSRINGNING OCH ÄRMHÅL innan du börjar med halsen. Lycka till :)

country flag Thea 15.05.2019 - 14:15:

Deze jurk net afgemaakt. Voor de XL maar 310 gram gebruikt en ik ben een zeer losse breier.

country flag Mia 15.06.2017 - 21:00:

Hej! jättefin men xs blir för stor för mig ska jag gå upp eller ner i stickstorlek eller är maskantalet delbart med något så jag kan gå ner i antal maskor så att mönstren ändå stämmer? tacksam för förslag

country flag Andrea T. 04.04.2016 - 11:38:

Hallo nochmal! Außerdem ist mir in der Anleitung folgendes unklar. 2.) Bei der Anleitung für den Halsausschnitt steht, dass gleichzeitig auf beiden Seiten 1 Masche gegen den Hals abgenommen werden soll. Beim "TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN -2 - NACH 4 M" steht 1 M re abheben, 2 re. zusammen, abgehobene über die gestrickte ziehen -- da werden aber dann 2 Maschen abgenommen.... Oder verstehe ich das falsch... Danke für eure rasche Antwort, damit ich weiterstricken kann ;-) Liebe Grüße, Andrea

user icon DROPS Design 05.04.2016 kl. 13:45:

Liebe Andrea, vielen Dank für den Hinweis, da haben Sie wirklich einen Fehler in der Übersetzung entdeckt. Wir werden es gleich korrigieren und entschuldigen uns für die Unannehmlichkeiten.

country flag Andrea T. 04.04.2016 - 11:36:

Hallo an alle! Ich bin Strickanfängerin und versuche mich gerade an diesem wunderschönen Kleid... In der Anleitung verstehe ich jedoch etwas nicht. 1.) Beim TIPP ZUM ABNEHMEN-1 steht, dass die linken Maschen durch die Abnahmen nicht verschoben werden dürfen --- Wann nehme ich dann im M2 ab?? In der Reihe wo die linken Maschen zu stricken werden, oder davor bzw. danach?? Danke für eure rasche Antwort, damit ich weiterstricken kann ;-) Liebe Grüße Andrea

user icon DROPS Design 05.04.2016 kl. 13:42:

Liebe Andrea, vielleicht nehmen Sie der Einfachheit halber in den Reihen ab, in denen keine linken Maschen gestrickt werden. Achten Sie darauf, dass zwischen den Abnahmenn das Muster weiterhin so übereinanderkommt wie vorher.

Lilyj 22.11.2015 - 17:57:

This model is beautiful (and looks easy-ish): are you going to translate it in Italian? thanks.

user icon DROPS Design 22.11.2015 kl. 19:51:

Hello Lilyj. The pattern will be translated into Italian as soon as possible. Happy knitting!

country flag Regina 30.06.2015 - 19:26:

Hallo, leider noch ein Fehler in Anleitung. Ziemlich am Anfang, wo die Markierungsfäden eingezogen werden, muss es heißen: "Markierungsfaden -6 einziehen (=Seite)." Es können nicht 2 Markierungsfäden -1 sein, später in der Anleitung wird auf -6 Bezug genommen.

user icon DROPS Design 05.07.2015 kl. 08:59:

Das ist richtig und es wird gleich korrigiert. Vielen Dank für den Hinweis!

country flag Anette 26.07.2013 - 19:14:

Hei! Når jeg begynner økning i side på M4 får jeg ikke mønsteret til å stemme overens etter at jeg begynner økningen. Har sett og telt over flere ganger, men får det ikke til å stemme. På første runde med mønster etter økningen skal det være igjen 4 rette på slutten av ommg, men jeg får bare 2... Samtidig som at hullene ikke er der de skal være i forhold til 1.rad med hull...

user icon DROPS Design 10.10.2013 kl. 08:15:

Sørg for at mønsteret stemmer, de økte m i siderne strikkes i glatstrik til du har nok for at fortsætte ifølge M4.

country flag Pernilla 01.06.2013 - 12:48:

Får inte mönstret att stämma. Vid första hålvarvet så får jag 3 maskor kvar efter en hel mönster rep. Fel antal maskor i xl storleken???

user icon DROPS Design 20.06.2013 kl. 12:17:

Mönstret er korrekt. Du strikker de sidste 3 m da som de förste 3 af M.1 altsaa: 3 rett eller 1 omslag, lyft 1 m som om den skulle stickas rät, 2 rm tills, drag den lyfta m över, 1 omslag naar du er saa vidt :-)

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