DROPS / 111 / 4

Endless Summer by DROPS Design

DROPS dress in ”Muskat” with lace pattern, short sleeves and crochet borders. Size XS - XXL.

Tags: dresses, lace, v-neck,
Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-86-94-102-118-126 cm /30¾’’-33 7/8’’-37’’-40’’-46½’’-49½’’
Full length: 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm /33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’-35½’’-36¼’’-37’’-37¾’’

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
color no 30, yellow: 500-550-600-650-750-800 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) size 4.5 mm /US 7 – or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 – the diagrams show the pattern from the RS.

DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso. NOTE! Make sure not to shift P sts in M.1 when decreasing.

DECREASING TIP-2:
Make all dec from RS inside 9 pattern sts and 3 garter sts = 12 sts.
Dec as follows before 12 sts: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after 12 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.
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DRESS: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 204-216-240-252-276-288 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Muskat. P 1 round, K 1 round, P 1 round and continue in M.1.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 18-18-18-20-22-26 cm / 7”-7”-7”-8”-8¾”-10¼” insert 6 markers in piece as follows: Work 32-34-38-40-44-46 sts, insert Marker-1, work 37-39-43-45-49-51 sts, insert Marker-2, work 33-35-39-41-45-47 sts, insert Marker-3 in the last of these sts (= the side), work 32-34-38-40-44-46 sts, insert Marker-4, work 37-39-43-45-49-51 sts, insert Marker-5, work 33-35-39-41-45-47 sts, insert Marker-6 in the last of these sts (= the other side). On next round dec 1 st on each side of Marker-3 and -6 (i.e. at the sides) – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 – and repeat the dec on every 6th round a total of 13-12-14-13-11-10 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when doing the 8-7-9-8-6-5 dec, also dec 1 st by the other markers as follows: AFTER Marker-1 and Marker-4 and BEFORE Marker-2 and Marker-5 – SEE DECREASING TIP-1. Repeat these dec on every 6th round (i.e. on the same rounds as dec at the sides) a total of 6 times.
When all dec are complete there are 128-144-160-176-208-224 sts on round. Continue in M.1 until piece measures approx 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½’’-19’’-19¼’’-19¾’’-20’’-20½’’ – adjust to after at least 2 rounds stockinette st. Now remove Marker-1, -2, -4 and -5.
Continue in M.2 – beg by arrow for your size at bottom of diagram so that st mid front = arrow at top of diagram.
After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next round as follows:
19-23-27-31-39-43 stockinette sts, M.2 (continue from row 7 in chart and repeat from row 7-22)on 25 sts mid front and stockinette st on remaining sts on round. AT THE SAME TIME on round 4 inc 1 st on each side of the markers at sides – SEE INCREASING TIP – and repeat the inc on every 4 round a total of 7 times = 156-172-188-204-236-252 sts. When piece measures approx 67-68-69-70-71-72 cm / 26 3/8’’-26¾’’-27 1/8’’-27½’’-28’’-28 3/8’’ (adjust so that next round is a round with YO) work 4 rounds garter st – see above – on 7 sts mid front, with remaining sts as before. On next round bind off the middle st at front for split and on the same round bind off 7 sts each side for armhole (= st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this).
Now complete each piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 35-39-43-47-55-59 sts. Continue with 3 garter sts towards neckline, 9 sts of M.2 and stockinette st on remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for neckline and armhole as follows:
NECKLINE: Dec 1 st on neckline inside 12 sts – SEE DECREASING TIP-2 - and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 9-10-10-10-10-11 times and then on every 4th row 5-5-5-6-6-6 times.
ARMHOLE: bind off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-4 times. When all dec are complete there are 20-20-21-21-24-24 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm / 33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’-35½’’-36¼’’-37’’-37¾’’.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE: = 71-79-87-95-111-119 sts. Continue in stockinette at and bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 69-71-73-75-81-83 sts. When piece measures 83-85-87-89-91-93 cm / 32¾’’-33½’’-34¼’’-35’’-35¾’’-36 5/8’’ work 4 rows garter st on the middle 35-37-37-39-39-41 sts, with remaining sts in stockinette st. Now bind off the middle 29-31-31-33-33-35 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Continue in stockinette st with 3 garter sts towards neckline and bind off when piece measures 86-88-90-92-94-96 cm / 33 7/8’’-34 5/8’’-35½’’-36¼’’-37’’-37¾’’.

SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-62-68-68-74-80 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st and continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4’’ inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 2-4-3-5-5-4 times, work inc sts in stockinette st = 66-70-74-78-84-88 sts. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8’’ bind off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1-2-4-5-6-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm /
4¾’’-5 1/8’’-5½’’-6’’-6¼’’-6¾’’, now bind off 4 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts, piece measures approx 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm / 5 1/8’’-5½’’-6’’-6¼’’-6¾’’-7’’.

ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and set in sleeves.

CROCHET BORDERS: Crochet a border with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat round sleeve edges and along bottom edge of dress as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 sc in first st, * 4 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work sl sts to the middle of the first ch-loop, 1 sc round ch-loop, * 2 ch, 1 sc round next ch-loop, 5 ch, 1 sc round next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* but fasten the last loop with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
ROUND 3: Crochet 1 sc in each of the small ch-loops and crochet 1 sc, 5 dc and 1 sc in each of the large ch-loops, finish round with 1 sl st in first sc.
Crochet a border round neckline with crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat as follows – beg mid back: 1 sc in first st, * 1 picot (= 4 ch, 1 st in first ch), skip approx 1.5 cm / ½’’, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 07.05.2009
After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 work next round as follows:
19-23-27-31-39-43 stockinette sts, M.2 (continue from row 7 in chart and repeat from row 7-22)on 25 sts mid front and stockinette st on remaining sts on round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 111-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (121)

Esther Oz 23.11.2020 - 14:08:

So I cast off at end of round and cut yarn? Then 35 sts, and says continue 3 garter toward neckline, does this mean going back and forth in round with the first sts being a decrease then 9 in M2 then go through the whole back in stockinette? And since I’m doing xs is decrease at armhole only 1 sts, 1 time at the beginning of every row and only on left side?

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 16:21:

Dear Mrs Oz, when working left front piece (when dress is worn), seen from RS you work: stocking stitch over the first sts (you will cast off 1 stitch at the beg of the first row from RS for armhole - then cast off for armhole is done in XS) until 14 sts remain, decrease 1 stitch for neck and work the next 9 sts in M.2 as before and end with 3 sts in garter stitch. Decrease for neck will be worked a total of 9 times on every other row and 5 times on every 4th row. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 23.11.2020 - 05:50:

I finished up through bind offs so when I end the row I come to where I bound off 7 for arm hole. How do I start left front piece? Do I cut yarn at where I ended the bind off for the armhole and start at beginning of round? Are decreases for neckline where I just did 1 bind off in middle front st for split?

DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 10:22:

Dear Mrs Oz, yes cut the yarn and join on the left front piece, making sure the lace pattern will be always worked from RS. You now decrease 1 stitch inside 12 sts (see DECREASE-TIP-2) for the neck and at the same time cast off for armhole at the beg of row from armhole. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 10.11.2020 - 16:03:

I realized I was counting the increase sts as 1st stitch of the 19 stockinette in M2 instead of counting 19 after the increase. I think this will work. Thanks for all you help

Esther Oz 09.11.2020 - 16:34:

So the 4th round I added stitch, that round is all Stockinette per M2, does that mean when I begin round 1’(of the four), I do 20 stockinette, then M2 pattern? And every 4th round I count an extra stitch (22, 4 rounds, 23, 4 rounds, etc for 7 times?

DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 08:49:

Dear Mrs Oz, are you talking about the increases on the sides? You work them like this: *work 1 round as before increasing 1 stitch on each side of both markers (4 inc per round), with M.2 as before over the middle stitches (continue M.2 as before always repeating now row 7 to 22), work 3 rounds without increasing with stocking stitch and M.2 as before*, work from *-* a total of 6 times, then work one more increase round = there are now 156 sts, still M.2 over the middle stitches and stocking stitch on remaining sts. Hope this helps, happy knitting!

Esther Oz 09.11.2020 - 15:49:

I will try the store, but my side marker is right before the 19 stockinette. The only way to divide so I get 35 is to bind off 7 before the marker

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 16:01:

Dear Mrs Oz, yes there were 19 sts stocking st after beg of round and before M.2 but then you increased 7 sts (1 st on each side of each marker a total of 7 times = 156 sts in total), so that there are 19+7= 26 sts in stocking st - 3 sts cast off at the beg of the round = 23 sts in stocking st + 9 sts M.2 + 3 sts garter st (neck edge). Hope this helps together with your store. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 09.11.2020 - 14:26:

I have 156 sts but if I cast off 7 for first armhole and 1 for mid front that gives me 28 sts on left side because I have 19 sts in stockinette, then 9 sts in M2 and 3 sts in garter. I lost 3 sts from when I bind off after the first marker. 19+9+3-3=28. I will have more sts on back and Right side. It doesn’t divide into 35,35,71

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 15:39:

Dear Mrs Oz, you should divide your stitches to get the 7 sts cast off for armhole, 35 sts for first front piece, 1 middle st cast off for neck, 35 sts for 2nd front piece, 7 sts cast off for 2nd armhole and 71 sts for back piece - do not hesitate to show your work to your store (even a picture per mail), it might be easier for them to explain you seeing your work. (Remember the markers should be on each side of piece). Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 06.11.2020 - 23:51:

I do not get 35 sts on left front piece. After first marker is 19 sts, then 9 sts in M2 and then there are 3 sts for front for split. If I bind off 3 sts after first marker I’m left with 28 sts which is what I’m getting. 19+9+3-3=28. How do you get 35? I do have correct amount of sts in round of 156

DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Oz, check your number of stitches before dividing piece: 156 sts - 1 st cast off on mid front + 7 stsx2= 14 sts cast off for armholes = 35 sts for each front piece and 71 sts for back piece. The 35 sts on front piece are worked: 3 sts in garter st towards neck, 9 sts in M.2 and 23 sts in stocking stitch. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 06.11.2020 - 05:36:

Need help on Left front piece. For first 35 sts, I first do 3 garter sts then 9 sts of M2. Is that starting from row 7 again? And am I only working 35 sts on left side? Is this working in the round. Also, for xs, armhole bind off 1st sts only?

DROPS Design 06.11.2020 kl. 08:34:

Dear Mrs Oz, you just have to work the row of diagram coming after the previous one you worked - you now repeat row 7 to 22, if you worked row 22 on previous row, then start again from row 7. Correct in first size, you just cast off 1 stitch at the beg of first row from the armhole. Seen from RS (left front piece = from the armhle towards neck)) work: stocking stitch, 9 sts in M.2, 3 sts in garter stitch. Decrease for neck before the 12 last stitches (= M.2 + 3 sts in garter st), seen from RS. Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 03.11.2020 - 14:12:

On bind off row, in previous answer to my question said to do row in next pattern in M2 on each side of the 7 mid front sts. Are the 7 middle sts still in stockinette other than the mid st that I bind off?

DROPS Design 03.11.2020 kl. 15:33:

Dear Mrs Oz, the 7 stitches on mid front are worked in garter stitch (in the middle of M.2) but the 7 stitches for armholes are worked in stocking stitch (on each side). Happy knitting!

Esther Oz 03.11.2020 - 05:29:

So just to make sure, I’m binding off the last 3 sts before the beginning of the bind off row and not binding off 3 sts in beginning of of row and binding off last 4 sts and the end of same row?

DROPS Design 03.11.2020 kl. 09:06:

Dear Mrs Oz, this might give the same, you can either start the bind off row with the last 3 sts of the round to bind off 3 sts before marker + 1 st with marker + 3 sts after marker (= beg of next round) or cast off the sts from beg of the round and end with casting off the last stitches of the round, then cut the yarn and join it back for left front piece. Just make sure that your number of sts is correct on each piece. Happy knitting!

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