DROPS Baby / 11 / 15

Angel Kissed by DROPS Design

The set comprises: Christening gown, bonnet and jump suit.

  • Angel Kissed / DROPS Baby 11-15 - The set comprises: Christening gown, bonnet and jump suit.
  • Angel Kissed / DROPS Baby 11-15 - The set comprises: Christening gown, bonnet and jump suit.
  • Angel Kissed / DROPS Baby 11-15 - The set comprises: Christening gown, bonnet and jump suit.
  • Angel Kissed / DROPS Baby 11-15 - The set comprises: Christening gown, bonnet and jump suit.
DROPS Design model Z-006-by-a
Yarn group A

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 months

Gown:
Finished measurements:
Bust: 54-60 cm / 21 1/4"-23 5/8"
Full length: 80-90 cm / 31½"-35½"

Jumpsuit:
Finished measurements:
Bust: 52-58 cm / 20½"-22 3/4"
Full length: 55-65 cm / 21 5/8"-25½"

Materials:
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk from Garnstudio
Alt. use DROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca wool) or DROPS Baby Merino (100% baby merino wool)or DROPS Safran (100% cotton)

Christening gown: 500-550 g, color #1101 white
Trousers: 300-300 g, color #1101 white
Bonnet: 50-50 g, color #1101 white

DROPS circular needle, double pointed needle and pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1

DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm/US C/2

DROPS Mother of pearl buttons, no 523:
christening gown: 5 pcs
jumpsuit: 5 pcs

Silk ribbon: approx 10 mm/½" wide.
christening gown: 560 cm / 6.2 yds
bonnet: 80 cm / 32"
jumpsuit: 160 cm / 1.75 yds

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 115.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 25 sts x 34 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Note! Working in pattern will make more rows per 10 cm / 4".

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Seed sts: 1st row: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*. 2nd row: K over P, P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

Pin tuck: P 1 row from the RS and then 4 rows stockinette sts. Work next row as follows from the WS: *Pick up the upper part of st under the purled row, put loop on right needle, P1, lift the loop over P st to close the loop*, repeat from *-*. Work 2 rows stockinette sts between each pin tuck.

Decreasing tips I (apply to the dress yoke):
Dec inside 2 edge sts in garter sts from the RS. There are two different dec, one with hole and one without.
1st dec (dec with hole):
after 2 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, make a yo.
before 2 edge sts: make a yo, K3 tog.
2nd dec (dec without hole):
after 2 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
before 2 edge sts: K2 tog.

Decreasing tips II (apply to mid front trousers):
Dec on each side of 2 K sts as follows:
Before 2 sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
After 2 sts: K2s tog.

Leaf Pattern:
1st row: (= WS): *K5, P5*, repeat from *-* and finish with K5.
2nd row: (= RS): P2, *yo, K1, yo, P2, K5, P2*, repeat from *-* until there are 3 sts left. Work these as follows: yo, K1, yo, P2.
Row 3 -5 - 8 - 9 - 11 – 13 – 16 – 17: K over K and P over P. P all yo’s.
Row 4: P2, *K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, P2, sl 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-* until there are 5 sts left. Work these as follows: K1, yo, K1, yo, K1 and P2.
Row 6: P2, * K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, P2*, repeat from *-* until there are 7 sts left. Work these as follows: K2, yo, K1, yo, K2 and P2.
Row 7: K2, *P7, K5, *repeat from *-* until there are 9 sts left. Work these as follows: P7, K2.
Row 10: P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P2, * yo, K1, yo, P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Row 12: P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2, *K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Row 14: P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, P2, *K2, yo, K1, yo, K2, P2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso, P2*, repeat from *-*.
Row 15: K5, *P7, K5*, repeat from *-*.
Row 18: P5, *slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K3, K2 tog, P5*, repeat from *-*.
Row 19: K over K and P over P. At the same time inc in the 5 K sts between each leaf as follows: (inc by picking up st from previous row) K1, inc 1 st, K3, inc 1 st, K1.
Row 20: P all sts except the sts in leaves. Work these as follows: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, K1, K2 tog.
Row 21: P the 3 sts in leaves and knit all other sts. At the same time inc between each leaf as follows: (inc by picking up st from previous row) K1, inc 1 st, K5, inc 1 st.
Row 22: P all sts except the sts in leaves. Work these as follows: slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso.

Pattern M.1 – M.7: See diagrams. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side. English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.
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CHRISTENING GOWN:

Dress:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid back. Loosely cast on 378-412 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2.
Work diagram M.1 (1st row = RS) but knit 2 edge sts each side in garter sts until finished measurements.
After M.1 work 1 row stockinette sts and continue with 2 pin tucks – see explanation above.
Now work the 4 first rows of M.2 whilst dec 11-13 sts evenly on row (knit sts not fitting into row of holes in stockinette). 367-399 sts.
Now work the 4 first rows of M.2 (work sts not fitting into row of holes in stockinette sts).
Work the next 9 rows of M.2 as follows: 2 edge sts in garter sts, *1 repeat with holes, 3 repeats without holes (= 24 sts in stockinette sts)*, repeat from *-* until there are 13 sts left. Work these as follows: 1 repeat with holes, 3 sts in stockinette sts and 2 edge sts in garter sts (in the section with 24 sts without holes you may add the names of the children christened in the gown).
Now work the last 4 rows of M.2 over all sts (work sts not fitting into row of holes in stockinette sts). Continue in leaf pattern – see explanation above - at the same time dec 18-20 sts on the first row = 349-379 sts.
After the leaf pattern work diagram M.2 with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts, at the same time dec 6-4 sts evenly = 343-375 sts.
Work 1 row in stockinette sts, at the same time dec 18-20 sts evenly = 325-355 sts. Now work 2 pin tucks and 1 row in stockinette sts, at the same time dec 21-31 sts evenly = 304-324 sts. Continue in diagram M.3 until piece measures approx 63-72 cm / 24 3/4"-28 3/8" – adjust after a full repeat.
Work next row as follows from WS: 2 edge sts in garter sts, *P2 tog*, repeat from *-* over all sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter sts = 154-164 sts.
Work 2 rows in stockinette sts (1st row = RS), at the same time dec 18-14 sts evenly on last row = 136-150 sts.
Now work 4 pin tucks and 1 row in stockinette sts.
Work next row as follows from WS: K 38-42, P 60-66, K 38-42.
Bind off 36-40 sts each side on next row. Piece now measures approx 68-77 cm / 26 3/4"-30 3/8".

Front piece: = 64-70 sts.
Read all of the following section before starting!
Work stockinette sts with diagram M.5 over the four middle sts. At the same time dec for armhole each side on every other row a total of 10 times – see Dec tips above.
Alternate between 1st and 2nd dec. After all dec are complete continue making holes on every 4th row (from RS) along the armhole as follows:
After 2 sts in garter sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, yo.
Before 2 sts in garter sts: yo, K2 tog.
Neckline: At the same time when piece measures approx 4 cm / 1½'' from where the front piece starts (adjust to after 3 or 4 holes in M.5) bind off the middle 2 sts for neck – bind off from the RS in P sts. Put sts on left side (when worn) on a thread.

Right side: Dec 1 st towards neckline on every other row a total of 11-13 times – see Dec tips above. Alternate between 1st and 2nd dec. After all dec for armhole and neckline are complete = 10-11 sts left on shoulder (= 2 sts in garter sts, 6-7 sts in stockinette sts, 2 sts in garter sts). Continue over these 11 sts (= strap) and continue making holes on every 4th row (from RS) as described for armhole. Bind off when piece measures approx 28-32 cm / 11"-12½" from where the front piece starts.

Left side: Put sts from thread back on needle and work as right side.

Assembly:
Buttonhole loops: Crochet along the pin tucks on the right back piece as follows (start at the top and crochet towards bottom edge of dress): 9 sc.
Then crochet next row as follows: *1 sl st, ch 5, skip 1 sc, 1 sl st in next st*, repeat from *-* until you have 3 loops. Sew on 3 buttons along the pin tucks on the left side.
Mark the strap where it will have a suitable length for the child and crochet a loop from the right side on each strap by the mark. 1 loop = 1 sl st, ch 5 and 1 sl st in the same st (the remainder of the strap will hang inside the gown).
Sew on a button at the upper edge 3-4 cm / 1"-1½" in from each side mid back.

Silk ribbon:
Cut 3 ribbons measuring 170 cm / 1.85 yds each in each of the upper 3 rows of holes from M.2 (i.e. 2 over and 1 under the leaf pattern). Attach the ends inside the gown.
Cut 1 ribbon measuring 50 cm / 20" and pull it through the row of holes on each side of the neckline and the straps.
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JUMPSUIT

Work each leg separately, put them together, work the body and finish with the sleeves.

Left leg:
Cast on 32-40 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2.
Work 5-6 cm / 2''-2 3/8'' seed sts. K1 round, at the same time inc 8 sts evenly = 40-48 sts. Work next round as follows: *K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-*. K1 round, at the same time inc 8 sts evenly = 48-56 sts. Now work M.2 and continue in stockinette sts. At the same time on the first round of stockinette sts inc 12 sts evenly = 60-68 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg.
At the same time when piece measures 11-12 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4" inc 1 st on each side of marker on every 4th round a total of 6 times = 72-80 sts.
When piece measures 18-21 cm / 7"-8 1/4" split the piece by the marker and work back and forth on needles (to make it easier to put both legs on the same circular needle to knit the body). Inc 1 st each side for seam = 74-82 sts.
When piece measures 20-23 cm / 8"-9" bind off 5 sts each side = 64-72 sts.
Put the piece aside and work right leg the same way.

Back and front piece:
Put right and left leg on the same circular needle = 128-144 sts. Insert a marker in the transition between the legs mid front and mid back.
Work 3 rounds in stockinette sts.
Continue in stockinette sts and now inc 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts mid back on every other round a total of 8 times, and dec 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts mid front on every other row a total of 8 times – see Dec tips above = 128-144 sts.
When piece measures 30-40 cm / 11 3/4"-15 3/4" bind off 8 sts mid back (= opening) and continue back and forth on needles = 120-136 sts.
When piece measures 39-48 cm / 15 1/4"-19" work diagram M.6 (1st row = WS and knit 1 edge st each side in garter sts). At the same time on the last row of M.6 knit tog the 2 middle sts = 119-135 sts.
Work next row as follows: 1 edge st, M.7A (= 9 sts), M.7B over 96-112 sts, M.7C (= 12 sts) and 1 edge st.
At the same time when piece measures 45-54 cm / 17 3/4"-21 1/4" work next row as follows from the RS: K 25-29 sts (= left back piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, 57-65 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, 25-29 sts (= right back piece).
Work each piece separately.

Right back piece:
= 25-29 sts. Work M.7, at the same time dec for armhole at the side on every other row: 2 sts 1-1 time and 1 st 3-4 times = 20-23 sts. Note! Work stockinette sts over sts not fitting into pattern towards armhole.
When piece measures 53-63 cm / 21"-24 3/4" bind off the middle 5-6 sts mid back for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on every other row 2 times = 13-15 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 55-65 cm / 21 5/8"-25½".

Left back piece:
Work as right back piece.

Front piece:
= 57-65 sts. Work M.7, at the same time dec for armhole as described for back piece = 47-53 sts.
When piece measures 51-60 cm / 20"-23 5/8" bind off the middle 11-13 sts for neck and work each shoulder separate. Dec towards the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 13-15 sts left on each shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures approx 55-65 cm / 21 5/8"-25½" – adjust to back piece.

Sleeve:
Loosely cast on 68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2.
Work M.4 and dec 28-20 sts evenly on the last round = 40-48 sts.
Work M.2 and then finish the sleeve in M.7. At the same time when the piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' inc 2 sts mid under arm on every 6-9 round a total of 5-4 times = 50-56 sts – work the inc sts in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 17-19 cm / 6 3/4"-7½" bind off 6 sts mid under arm and finish the piece back and forth on needle. Dec for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 2-3 times, 1 st 5-3 times and then 2 sts each side until piece measures 23-25 cm / 9"-9 3/4".
Bind off. Work another sleeve.

Assembly:
Sew the shoulder seams.

Left edge: Pick up approx 60-65 sts along left back piece on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. Work back and forth as follows: K 1 row from WS, work 2.5 cm / 7/8'' in seed sts, bind off.

Right edge: Pick up and knit as left edge, but make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed after 1 cm / 3/8''. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row.
Place right edge over left edge and sew at the bottom of the slit.

Lace collar: Pick up approx 55 to 65 sts from the WS round the neckline on needle size 2.5 mm / 7/8'' (do not pick up over the edges on back piece). Work 4 rows garter sts and 1 row in stockinette sts, inc evenly to 123 sts on the stockinette sts row. Now work M.4 – start on the 3rd row in diagram – with 2 edge sts each side in garter sts. After M.4 bind off loosely. Crochet round the collar with hook size 2.5 mm/US C/2 as follows: 1 sl st in first st, *ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sl st in next st*, repeat from *-*.

Sew in sleeves. Sew tog between legs and under foot. Sew on buttons.
Cut 2 silk ribbons measuring 20 cm / 8'' each and pull through row of holes at sleeves. Cut 2 silk ribbons measuring 60 cm / 23½'' each and pull through the lower row of holes on each leg.

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BONNET:
To fit head circumference: approx 40/42 – 44/46 cm / 15 3/4"/16½" - 17 1/4"/18"

Cast on 87-104 sts (incl 1 edge st each side, knitted in garter sts throughout) on pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2.
Work M.1 until piece measures 10-12 cm / 4"-4 3/4".
Now work a pin tuck – see explanation above – at the same for size 6/9 months dec 1 st on first row in pin tuck = 87 -103 sts. Now bind off 28-36 sts each side = 31 sts left (= middle piece on back). Measure piece from this point onwards! Continue as follows: 1 edge st, M.7A (= 9 sts), M.7B (= 8 sts), M.7C (=12 sts) and 1 edge st.
Bind off when the middle piece measures 11-14 cm / 4 3/8"-5½". Sew to side pieces. Pick up approx 86 to 98 sts (divisible by 4+2 to get an even number of holes for the silk ribbon) along the front edge on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and knit M.6 with 1 edge st each side. Bind off in P sts (seen from the RS). Cut a silk ribbon measuring approx 80 cm / 31½" and pull through row of holes.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.08.2016
Dress:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid back. Loosely cast on 378-412 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or 2.
Work diagram M.1 (1st row = RS) but knit 2 edge sts each side in garter sts until finished measurements.
After M.1 work 1 row stockinette sts and continue with 2 pin tucks – see explanation above.
Now work the 4 first rows of M.2 whilst dec 11-13 sts evenly on row (knit sts not fitting into row of holes in stockinette). 367-399 sts.
Updated online: 15.09.2016
DECREASING TIP 1:...2nd dec (dec without hole):
after 2 edge sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
before 2 edge sts: K2 tog.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from RS, purl from WS
symbols = purl from RS, knit from WS
symbols = P2 tog
symbols = make a yo
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to purl, P2 tog, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 11-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Anastasia Mattheus 19.09.2020 - 20:05:

Blattmuster: ist Reihe 18 korrekt? Müsste es nicht heißen: 5li, eine abheben, 1re, überheben, 3re, 2re zusammenstricken, 5li? Anstatt mit 5re anfangen?

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 09:21:

Liebe Frau Mattheus, ja genau, am Anfang der R stricken Sie 5 li (nicht 5 re), dies wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Anastasia Mattheus 18.09.2020 - 13:22:

Frage zum Blattmuster: Bei den ungeraden Reihen steht: R. über re. und li. über li. stricken Wie soll ich das verstehen?

user icon DROPS Design 18.09.2020 kl. 15:49:

Liebe Frau Mattheus, bei diesen Reihen stricken Sie die Maschen, wie sie erscheinen, dh die rechte Maschen werden rechts gestrickt und die linke Maschen werden links gestrickt (= Reihe 3, 5, 8,; 9, 11, 13, 16 und 17). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Jinky 29.12.2019 - 13:24:

Hello, would this be ok for a baby boy to be gifted? if not can you recommend what patterns you have for christening baby boy? Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 29.12.2019 kl. 15:41:

Dear Jinky, this set would be a perfect choice for a baby's Christening. Also you can find some more choices here Happy Crafting!

country flag Sandra 27.12.2019 - 17:23:

Nochmal eine Frage: Fängt M3 mit einer Hinreihe an? Wenn ja, müsste ich ja nach den Biesen 2 Reihen glatt stricken? Danke und liebe Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 11:40:

Liebe Sandra, die 1. Reihe in M.3 ist eine Rückreihe, so sind die Löcher bei der Hinreihe gestrickt. Nach den 2 Reihen glatt rechts nach den Biesen ist die nächste Reihe eine Rückreihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sandra 16.11.2019 - 20:19:

2. Nachtrag (sorry): wenn es nach den anderen Reihen geht, müsste in der 4. Reihe beim *-* zum Schluss noch 2 linke M gestrickt werden. Wären das die 2 M, die jeweils fehlen?

user icon DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 11:28:

Liebe Sandra, ja genau, die Anleitung wurde korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sandra 16.11.2019 - 19:25:

Nachtrag zu meiner Frage: Es würde sich ausgehen, wenn ich 12 M für *-* hernehme . Aber wo nehme die 2 zusätzlichen M her?

country flag Sandra 16.11.2019 - 18:35:

Frage zum Taufkleid/Blattmuster: Nach der 2. Reihe habe ich 455 M, die gehen aber nicht in der 4. Reihe aus. Da gehen weg 2 M Krausrippe jede Seite, 2 linke M am Beginn und 5 die übrig bleiben am Ende, also für *-* (dafür brauche ich ja 10 M jeweils) hätte ich 444 M. Hab ich irgendwo einen Rechenfehler? Danke

country flag Sandra 05.11.2019 - 21:31:

Hallo, eine Frage zum Taufkleid: Nach den ersten 2 Biesen soll man eine Reihe glatt stricken, wäre dann eine Hinreihe und dann mit dem Muster M2 anfangen, also wieder eine Hinreihe. Oder wird das M2 mit einer Rückreihe begonnen oder soll ich 2 Reihen glatt stricken und dann mit M2 anfangen? Danke (Kleine Anregung noch, könnte man nicht evtl. die nicht deutschen Fragen/Antworten irgendwie übersetzen).

user icon DROPS Design 06.11.2019 kl. 08:55:

Liebe Sandra, wenn Sie die 2. Biese gestrickt haben, ist die nächste Reihe eine Hinreihe (2. Biese endet mit der Rückreihe, wenn mann die Maschen von der unteren Reihe strickt). M.2 fängt dann mit einer Hinreihe an. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Astrid 24.09.2019 - 07:23:

Bei den Mustersätzen, sind die hier Hin und Rückreihen gezeichnet, oder nur die Hinreichen? Danke Astrid

user icon DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 10:40:

Liebe Astrid, alle Reihen sind im Diagramme gezeigt, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Charlotte Friis - Dastrup 01.08.2019 - 09:15:

Tak for svar, den ene er strikket og jeg kan dts.ikke strikke... Og den anden 29-3 syntes jeg ikke om 🙂 Vh. Charlotte

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