DROPS / 101 / 27

By the Bay by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with crochet yoke in ”Paris”

  • By the Bay / DROPS 101-27 - Knitted DROPS dress with crochet yoke in ”Paris”
  • By the Bay / DROPS 101-27 - Knitted DROPS dress with crochet yoke in ”Paris”
Size: S - M - L/XL - XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 74-86-100-114 cm / 29"-34"-39½"-45"
Full length: 83-86-91-96 cm / 32 3/4"-34"-35 3/4"-37 3/4"

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
300-350-400-450 g color no 16, white
150-150-150-200 g color no 23, light gray
100-150-150-150 g color no 24, dark gray

DROPS circular needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge.

DROPS crochet hook size 7 mm/US K – or the crochet hook size needed to obtain correct crochet gauge.

DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6 – for button cover.

2-2-2-3 buttons – approx 2 cm / 3/4'' in diameter.


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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Crochet gauge: 9 dc x 6 rows on hook size 7 mm/K with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter st (in the round on circular needles): 1st round: K, 2nd round: P.

Crochet info: Replace each dc in beginning of round /row with 3 ch. Replace each sc in beg of round with 1 ch.

Stripes: Crochet stripes after M.1, M.2 or M.3 – see diagram. 1 row in diagram = 1 row of dc.
S and M: Crochet from M.1
L/XL: Crochet from M.2
XXL: Crochet from M.3

Decreasing tip-1 (applies to skirt):
Dec like this before sts with marker: K2 tog, K1.
Dec like this after sts with marker: K1, slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Decreasing tip-2 (applies to yoke):
Dec 1 dc by crocheting 2 dc tog as follows: Crochet 1 dc without pulling st through last 2 loops, crochet next dc, pull st through all 4 loops on hook.

Thread info: When changing threads after 2nd and 6th row in M.1 (and 10th row size XXL), leave approx 1.5 m/1.7 yds of thread. Use later to crochet loops.
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SKIRT
Work piece in the round. Cast on 168-192-216-240 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with white. K1 round, P 1 round. Insert 2 markers in piece, in 1st stitch and in 85th -97th -109th -121st stitch (= sides of dress).
Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' dec each side of markers (= 4 dec per round) – read Decreasing tip-1. Dec on every 3-3.5-3.5-3.5 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/4", a total of 12 times = 120-144-168-192 sts.
When piece measures 49-51-53-55 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8" K1 round at the same time adjust sts amount to 119-140-168-189 sts, P 1 round.
Then bind off, piece measures 50-52-54-56 cm / 19 3/4"-20½"-21 1/4"-22".

Yoke:
Read Crochet info! Crochet with 2 strands Paris on crochet hook size 7 mm/K.
1st round (white): Begin mid back on skirt. Crochet 1 sc in first st from skirt, *1 ch , skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 1 ch , skip 3 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 34-40-48-54 sc.
2nd row (light gray): Crochet back and forth from mid back on skirt. Crochet 2 dc in each sc = 68-80-96-108 dc.
Continuing, crochet stripes – see explanation above. Read Thread info.
Size S and M: Crochet back and forth from mid back after M.1. Crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous round, but on 5th row dec 1 dc on each side – read Decreasing tip-2 = 66-78 dc.
Size L/XL: Crochet back and forth from mid back after M.2. Crochet 1 dc on each dc from previous round, but on 4th, 6th and 8th row dec 1 dc on each side – read Decreasing tip-2 = 90 dc.
Size XXL: Crochet back and forth from mid back after M.3. Crochet 1 dc in each dc from previous round, but on 6th, 8th and 10th row dec 1 on each side – read Decreasing tip-2 = 102 dc.

Crochet edge top:
Crochet with 2 strands dark gray with crochet hook size 7 mm/K.
1st row: Crochet 1 dc in each dc.
2nd row: Crochet 1 sc in first dc, *skip 2 dc, 6 dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* to end of row, finish with 1 sl st in last dc.

Crochet edge bottom:
Crochet an edge with 2 strands on crochet hook size 7 mm/K bottom of skirt at follows:
1st round (white): Crochet 1 sc in first sts from skirt, *1 ch, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first sc = 56-64-72-80 sc.
2nd round (light gray): Crochet 1 sc and 1 ch in each sc, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
3rd round (light gray): Crochet 1 sc in first sc, *skip 1 sc, 6 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 sl st in first sc.

Straps:
Read Crochet info! Ch 7 (incl 3 for turning) with 2 strands light gray.
Crochet 1 dc in 4th ch st from hook and 1 dc in each of 3 next ch st = 5 dc.
Continuing crochet 1 dc in each dc until a total of 20-20-24-24 rows with dc.
On one side crochet an edge with 2 strands dark gray as follows:
1st row: 1 sc in first row of dc, * ch 2, 1 sc in next row of dc *, repeat from *-*. Turn piece.
2nd row: 1 sc in first sc, *skip 1 sc, 6 dtr in next sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc * repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Sew strap on dress with wave edge at neckline. Sew strap so it is placed approx 2 cm / 3/4'' under yoke. On front piece start strap approx 5-6-7-8 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" from side and on back piece approx 2 cm / 3/4'' from side. NOTE: Try on dress and adjust strap length before sewing on back.

Loops:
Use threads hanging from yoke – read Thread info. Ch 7, fasten with 1 sl st 2 rows further down on yoke, turn piece, crochet 7 sc around ch loop, cut and sew thread.

Button cover:
Crochet 1 button cover in dark gray and 1 in light gray. For size XXL crochet 2 in light gray and 1 in dark gray. Crochet with 1 strand on crochet hook size 4 mm / G/6.
Ch 2, then crochet 5 sc in first ch made, finish with 1 sl st in first sc (= 1st round).
2nd round: ch 1, crochet 2 sc in each sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at beginning of round (= 10 sc).
3rd round: ch 1, crochet 1 sc in each sc and finish off with 1 sl st in first sc at beginning of row (= 10 sc).
4th round: ch 1, crochet 1 sc in every other sc and finish off with 1 sl st in first sc at beginning of round (= 5 sc).
Slip button inside cover, sew round opening and pull tog. Sew buttons in dress.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 28.02.2009
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Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dark gray
symbols = light gray
symbols = white
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 101-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Katia 02.04.2019 - 09:14:

Si può lavorare tutto il vestito all’uncinetto?se si con quale modalità?

user icon DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 09:50:

Buongiorno Katia. Potrebbe sostituire la parte lavorata a maglia rasata con righe di maglie alte. Purtroppo in questa sede non ci è possibile dare un'assistenza così personalizzata. Per questo tipo di aiuto, può rivelgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia, anche via mail. Buon lavoro!

country flag Skiensdame 28.06.2018 - 16:48:

Stroppene til kjolen blir ikke noe fine! Det blir store mellomrom der man har 3lm som første stav. Er nybegynner på hekling, har prøvd flere ganger, men får det ikke til. Er det mulig å strikke stroppene? Hvilket , maskemønster, pinnenr og maskeantall vil dere anbefale?

user icon DROPS Design 03.07.2018 kl. 14:31:

Hei Skiensdame. Du kan strikke stropper isteden ja. Om du strikker med de samme pinnene som resten av kjolen: Mål opp hvor lange du vil at de skal være, og gang med 1,6 (strikkefastheten) for å finne ut hvor mange masker du må legge opp - du vil da strikke frem og tilbake i stroppens lengde. Det er opp til deg hvilken strukturen/mønsteret du vil bruke, men om du for eksempel strikker riller vil stroppene brette seg mindre i kantene enn ved for eksempel glattstrikk. God fornøyelse.

country flag Sigrid 10.05.2018 - 21:32:

Er målene riktig i oppskriften? Strikker med samme pinner og garn, men den blir jo mye større enn målene i skissen. Strikker L/XL og nederst er målet i skissen 138 cm men jeg har nærmere 150 cm. Strikkefastheten på arbeidet mitt er den samme som i oppskriften.

country flag Heidi 24.02.2013 - 19:30:

Her må det være noe galt med oppskriften den er jo ALT for stor på ryggen - der henger og slenger den!! Dessuten er 2 knapper i str. M: for lite da er halve ryggen åpen. Jeg er veldig missfornøyd med denne oppskriften. Det blir dyrt med garn når oppskriften blir helt feil :-( Dårlig dårlig dårlig

country flag Christina 11.05.2009 - 01:26:

Hej Jag undrar om man skall sticka alla varven räta efter första två varven???????

country flag Gun/DROPS 28.02.2009 - 21:13:

Olet oikeassa, ohjeen loppuosa puuttui valitettavasti kokonaan. Loput tekstistä on nyt lisätty!

country flag Suvi 28.02.2009 - 16:35:

Hei! Näyttäisi siltä, että ohjeen suomenkielisestä versiosta ainakin puuttuisi ohjeet olkaimien virkkauksesta ja nappien päällystämisestä. Ystävällisesti pyytäisin lisäämään nämä ohjeeseen.

country flag Eva 19.01.2009 - 23:58:

Har börjat sticka kjolen, lagt upp maskor, stickat 1 räta v och 1 avigt v. Hur man sedan stickar fram till minskningen framgår ej i beskrivningen. På bilden ser det ut som slätstickning, men kanske ska jag fortsätta med 1 räta v och 1 avigt v fram till minskningen. Någon gullig som kan hjälpa??

country flag Hannah 18.03.2007 - 19:07:

Hei ! Lurte på hvilken størrelse modellen på bildet bruker?

Mary 20.02.2007 - 21:37:

Hoi,Tine, bedankt dat jullie het patroon van dit jurkje zo snel vertaald hebben. Ik kon mijn ogen niet geloven toen ik zag dat het patroon af te drukken was. Ik heb het dan ook meteen afgedrukt. Geweldig!!! Mijn complimenten. Groetjes, Mary.

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