DROPS / 101 / 6

Venetian Romance by DROPS Design

DROPS shrug knitted in bobble and lace pattern with “Silke-Alpaca”. Size S - XXL

Tags: boleros, lace,
Size: S – M - L – XL – XXL

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500 g color no. 7120, light gray green

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Rib: P 4-0-2-4-0, K3,*P3, K3*, repeat from *-* over the following 48-54-54-54-66 sts, P 6-3-3-4-2 sts, K 0-2-4-4-0 sts, P 0-3-3-4-0 sts *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* over the following 48-54-54-54-66 sts, K3, P 4-0-2-4-0 sts

Bobble: 1st row: Knit 3 sts into 1 st, turn. Now knit a total of 6 rows over these 3 sts - do not knit the other sts – as follows: 2nd row: P2, 1 yo, P1. 3rd row: Purl. 4th row: Knit. 5th row: Purl. 6th row: Knit the sts tog. 2 by 2 and pass the first st over the second sts (1 st left).

The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Dec and Increasing tip: When Dec/Inc in the P parts do not Dec/Inc in the outer most 3 sts each side.

Because of the number of sts knit the piece back and forth on circular needles. Cast on 116-122-128-134-140 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Silke-Alpaca.
Knit Rib – see above. When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' knit as follows from the RS: P3, M.1, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.2, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.1, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.3, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.4, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.5, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.4, P3.
When the piece measures 11-11-13-13-13 cm bind off 2 sts each side = 112-118-124-130-136 sts. At the same time when the piece measures 11-11-13-13-13 cm and 21-21-23-23-23 cm dec. 1 st each side each P part ( = 12 dec. each row) – read Dec and Increasing tips = 88-94-100-106-112 sts.
When the piece measures 41-41-48-48-48 cm and 51-51-58-58-58 cm inc. 1 st each side each P part = 12 inc. each row) – read dec and Increasing tips = 112-118-124-130-136 sts.
At the same time when the piece measures 51-51-58-58-58 cm cast on 2 new sts each side and P new sts (seen from the RS) = 116-122-128-134-140 sts.
When the piece measures approx. 58-58-67-67-67 cm (adjust to a hole repeat vertically) knit 4 cm / 1½'' of Rib – see explanation above. Bind off loosely with K over K and P over P, the piece measures approx. 62-62-71-71-71 cm.

Bend the piece double along the long side (Rib against Rib) and sew the outer most 11-11-13-13-13 cm tog – the remaining opening = arm hole.
Pick up approx. 66 – 78 sts (divisible with 6) on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Knit round. Knit Rib with K3 and P3 until the Rib measures 4 cm / 1½''.
Bind off with K over K and P over P. Repeat for the other armhole.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from the RS, P from the WS
= P from the RS, K from the WS
= Bobble: See explanation in pattern above
= Double yo, on returning row work only 1 yo and drop the other
= K 2 tog
= Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 101-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

M. Perlee 01.04.2015 - 20:32:

Mijn moeder probeert model 101-6 te breien, maar loop tegen het volgende probleem:Volgens de gegevens zou ik 112 steken moeten opzetten en daarmee de boord breien. Daarna breien volgens de telpatronen: 3 av, M 1 = 3 st. + 8 av. - M2 = 12 st. + 8 av. – M1 = 3 st. + 8 av – M3 = 26 st. + 8 av - M4 = 3 st. – 8 av - M5 = 12 st. + 8av - M4 = 3 st. – 3 av. Totaal 116 st. Wat doe ze fout?

DROPS Design 02.04.2015 kl. 09:37:

Waar hebt u 112 st vandaan? In het patroon staat: Zet 116-122-128-134-140 st op met rondbreinld 4.5 mm en Silke-Alpaca. Als u bijvoorbeeld maat S hebt gekozen, dan klopt 116 st precies.

Ruth 13.03.2015 - 21:36:

I also love the shrug. In the instructions what do you mean by "(adjust to a hole repeat vertically)"?

DROPS Design 17.03.2015 kl. 08:50:

Dear Ruth, adjust to a whole repetition of M2/M3/M5. Happy knitting!

Irene 24.07.2014 - 06:31:

3rd row in M4 work: K1, double YO, slip 1, K1, psso, K1. on 4th row in M4 work: P1, work first YO purlwise and drop the 2nd YO, P1.

Irene 20.07.2014 - 12:47:

Hi, As I am working on M.4. 1st row: work only P1 yo and drop the other. Am I right? How can I work on 2nd, 3rd and 4th row for M.4? Good day!

DROPS Design 23.07.2014 kl. 09:08:

Dear Irene, on 1st row in M4 work: double YO, slip 1, K1, psso, K1 (M4 = 3 sts), on 2nd row, P2, work first YO purlwise and drop the 2nd yo (= 3 sts). Happy knitting!

Diane 11.06.2014 - 17:27:

After you complete the ribbing at the start of the pattern, do you always Purl the 8 stitches in between the chart instructions for the both Right side and wrong side of this pattern.

DROPS Design 12.06.2014 kl. 08:39:

Dear Diane, the P8 worked between each diagram are worked P from RS and K from WS (reverse stockinette). Happy knitting!

Antje 09.02.2014 - 14:54:

Hallo, Ich habe diese Anleitung gefunden und finde sie wunderschön. Allerdings ist diese hier angegebene Wolle nicht mehr verfügbar. Welche Wolle wäre eine Alternative? Wäre die Drops Alpaka eine Alternative - wenn ja einfädig oder zweifädig? Danke für die Rückinfo. Viele Grüße Antje

DROPS Design 10.02.2014 kl. 09:36:

Liebe Antje, Sie finden eine ganze Reihe von Alternativen unter dem Stichwort "GARNALTERNATIVEN" in dem grauen Balken neben dem Foto.

Andrea 26.01.2014 - 12:02:

I love this shrug! Although i would like to make it with a little bit longer sleeve. Is this possible by modifying the number of stiches dec and inc? Thank you in advance :)

Susy 06.01.2014 - 20:45:

Is there a mistake in the first row of the instructions, after ribbing? The stitches should add to 116 (I'm knitting the small) and they only add to 112, as a result you end up with 4 stitches left. I'm taking care of the problem by P9 instead of P8 four times symmetrically along the row but please rectify. It could save time to someone else. It took me precious time to realize that it wasn't me making a mistake. Thnx

DROPS Design 07.01.2014 kl. 09:25:

Dear Suzy, no of sts match to pattern, in size S you work : P3, M.1 (= 3 sts), P 8, M.2 (=12 sts), P 8, M.1 (=3 sts), P 8, M.3 (=26 sts), P 8, M.4 (=3 sts), P 8, M.5 (= 12 sts), P 8, M.4 (=3 sts), P3 = 116 sts - You then cast off 2 sts each side = 116 - 4 = 112 sts. Happy knitting!

Anya 09.06.2013 - 07:22:

Hello, I have a question about the chart. The instructions for the double YO say that on the returning row, "knit only 1 yo and drop the other." But often on the returning row I am purling (for ex. in the second row of M.4 / M.1). So should I PPK or PPP? In other words, are the Double YO instructions correct in saying that on the returning row I should always "knit only 1 yo" or should I rather "work (whether knit or purl) only 1 yo" on the returning row? Thank you so much for clarifying.

DROPS Design 10.06.2013 kl. 08:54:

Dear Anya, after the double yo in M1/M4 you will purl all sts, ie work only 1 yo and drop the 2nd one. Happy knitting!

Edna 21.02.2013 - 18:30:

I have never read a chart before. Do you read from right to left and bottom to top? The instructions state knit from RS: P3, M.1 but chart says P from RS and knit from WS. I am confused.

DROPS Design 22.02.2013 kl. 12:04:

Dear Edna, correct, diagram is read from RS from right to the left and from WS from left to the right. When it says : P3, M1, P8-9-10-11-12 (see size),etc... you have to work the 3 sts from diagram M1 bewteen the P3 and P 8-9-10-11-12. Symbol for K from RS is white square, symbol for P from RS is a "-". Happy knitting!

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