Water Pebbles

DROPS cardigan with bobbles and lace pattern knitted in “Silke-Alpaca” or 2 strands "BabyAlpaca Silk". Size S - XXL

DROPS 101-7
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
See measure chart below - all measurements in chart measured from side to side in cm.
Note: In this pattern, each size of the cardigan will look different compared to the picture. The cardigan on the picture is a size M.

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
650-700-750-850-900 g color no. 7120, light gray green

OR USE:
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
500-600-700-900-1000g color no. 7402 light sea green


DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge

DROPS silver buttons no. 529: 6-6-7-7-7 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 in pattern sts and 18 sts x 23 rows on needles size 4 mm / US 6 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. Note! Make sure not to knit too loose.

Bobble:
1st row: Knit 3 sts into 1 st, turn. Now knit a total of 6 rows over these 3 sts - do not knit the other sts – as follows:
2nd row: P2, 1 yo, P1.
3rd row: Purl.
th row: Knit.
5th row: Purl.
6th row: Knit the sts tog. 2 by 2 and pass the first st over the second sts (1 st left).

The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Garter sts back and forth: Knit on all rows.

Rib: *K3, P3*, repeat from *-*.

Measurement tip: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging.

Button holes: bind off for button holes at the right front band: 1 button hole = bind off the 3rd st from the mid front edge. On the returning row cast on a new st over the bind off st.
bind off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 4, 12, 19, 26, 33 and 41 cm
Size M: 4, 12 19, 26, 33 and 41 cm
Size L: 4, 11, 18, 25, 32, 39 and 46 cm
Size XL: 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 52 cm
Size XXL: : 4, 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 52 cm
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RIGHT FRONT
Read measurement tip! Cast on 42-42-48-48-54 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 5 front band sts) on needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Silke-Alpaca OR 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk.
Knit as follows from the mid front (1st row = RS): 5 front band sts knitted in garter sts through out, *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* and finish with an edge st.
When the piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' change to needles size 4.5 mm / US 7.
Knit 4 rows of garter sts - on the first row adjust the number of sts to 40-44-47-51-56 sts. Then knit as follows (seen from the RS)
Size S: 5 garter sts (front band), M.1A, M.2, M.3A, P1, 1 edge st
Size M: 5 garter sts (front band), M.1A, M.2, M.3A, P5, 1 edge st
Size L: 5 garter sts (front band), M.1A, M.2, M.4A, P2, 1 edge st
Size XL: 5 garter sts (front band), M.1A, M.2, M.4A, P6, 1 edge st
Size XXL: 5 garter sts (front band), M.1A, M.2, M.4A, P11, 1 edge st

Continue this pattern – remember to bind off for button holes – see explanation above.
At the same time when the piece measures 10, 15 and 20 cm inc. 1 st at the side (P new sts) = 43-47-50-54-59 sts.
When the piece measures 41-40-45-49-48 cm – remember the measurement tips! bind off for the armhole at the side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times , 2 sts 2-2-3-3-4 times and 1 st 1-1-2-1-4 times.
At the same time when the piece measures approx. 42-42-47-53-53 cm (adjust to a full repeat) put 6 sts at the mid front on a stitch holder.
At the same time knit only pattern sts over the last half part of M.2 (i.e. purl the first 13 sts of M.2 and the remaining 3 sts of M.1A from the RS).
Bind off for neck on every other row 3-4-4-5-5 sts 1 time and 1 st 10 times = 16-19-19-20-20 sts left for the shoulder.
Bind off when the piece measures approx. 58-58-64-69-69 cm (adjust to a full repeat)

LEFT FRONT
Cast on and knit as right front but reverse, i.e. knit the pattern as follows– seen from the RS:
Size S: 1 edge st, P1, M.3B, M.2, M.1B, 5 garter sts (front edge)
Size M: 1 edge st, P5, M.3B, M.2, M.1B, 5 garter sts (front edge)
Size L: 1 edge st, P2, M.4B, M.2, M.1B, 5 garter sts (front edge)
Size XL: 1 edge st, P6, M.4B, M.2, M.1B, 5 garter sts (front edge)
Size XXL: 1 edge st, P11, M.4B, M.2, M.1B, 5 garter sts (front edge)

BACK PIECE
Cast on 71-77-83-95-101 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Knit as follows (1st row = RS): 1 edge st, K3, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-*, 1 edge st (begin and finish with 3 purl sts so the Rib agrees with the front pieces).
When the piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' change to needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
Knit 4 rows of garter sts – on the first row adjust the number of sts to 71-79-85-93-103 sts. Knit as follows( 1st row = RS): 1 edge st, P1-5-2-6-11, *M.3A, P13-13-16-16-16*, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, M.3A, P1-5-2-6-11, 1 edge st.
When the piece measures 10, 15 and 20 cm inc. 1 st each side (purl new sts) = 77-85-91-99-109 sts.
When the piece measures 41-40-45-49-48 cm bind off for the armholes as done for the front pieces = 61-69-69-73-73 sts.
When the piece measures 56-56-62-67-67 cm bind off the mid 27-29-29-31-31 sts for the neck. Continue to bind off 1 sts each neck side on the following row = 16-19-19-20-20 sts left for the shoulders. Bind off when the piece measures approx. 58-58-64-69-69 cm (adjust to the front pieces)

SLEEVE
Remember the measurement tip! Cast on 38-44-44-44-50 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Knit Rib with 1 edge st each side for 3 cm / 1 1/8'' – see explanation above.
Change to needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and knit as follows: ( 1st row = RS): 1 edge st, P 10-12-12-12-14 sts, M.3A, P 10-12-12-12-14 sts, M.3A, P10-12-12-12-14 sts, 1 edge st. When the piece measures 15 cm / 6'' inc. 1 st each side on every 5-6-4-3-3.5 cm a total of 7-6-8-10-9 times (purl new sts) = 52-56-60-64-68 sts.
When the piece measures 48-47-46-45-44 cm bind off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-5-5 times. Continue to bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 55 cm, then bind off 3 sts each side.
Bind off remaining sts when the piece measures 56 cm / 22''.

ASSEMBLY
Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew the side and the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.
Neck: Pick up approx. 90-108 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 around the neck (including the sts from the stitch holder). Knit 4 rows of garter sts, bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from the RS, P from the WS
symbols = P form the RS, K from the WS
symbols = Bobble: See explanation above
symbols = Double yo, on returning row knit only 1 yo and drop the other
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Margherita wrote:

Non riesco a capire il diagramma relativamente al dietro del lavoro, la spiegazione parla di M3A ma poi i punti non corrispondono

24.02.2021 - 23:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Margherita, le istruzioni sono corrette, ci può spiegare meglio il suo problema con il diagramma M.3A?

25.02.2021 - 20:04

country flag Chris wrote:

I know how to read a pattern but the stitch the stitch description is not clear for = Double yo, on returning row knit only 1 yo and drop the other. i have never seen the stitch described this way?

03.02.2020 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, under the video sections you will find how to knit a double yarn over to create a large hole. Hapy knitting!

03.02.2020 - 13:48

country flag Chris wrote:

Hello, Is there a written pattern instead of the grid. I am experienced knitter but struggling with the description of some of the stitches

02.02.2020 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, you will find how to read diagrams here so that you can follow the diagrams. Happy knitting!

03.02.2020 - 10:25

country flag Cornelia wrote:

Tut mir leid. Ich habe nochmal eine Frage. Bei der Anleitung zu den Ärmeln steht: Nachm auf beiden Seiten ... Was bedeutet nachm?

15.08.2019 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Cornelia, die deutsche Anleitung wird angepasst, es sollte so sein: Nach 15 cm auf beiden Seiten je 1 M aufnehmen... Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.08.2019 - 08:58

country flag Cornelia wrote:

Beim Rückenteil steht in der Anleitung bei der Musterabfolge am Schluss nur M3. Soll es M3B heißen?

05.08.2019 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Cornelia, beim Rückenteil wird nur M.3A gestrickt, mit je 1 Randm, 1-5-2-6-11 li. auf beiden Seiten und 13-13-16-16-16 li. zwischen jede M.3A. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.08.2019 - 10:58

country flag BENOIT wrote:

Je voudrais faire ce modèle en couleur turquoise. Que donnerait-il tricoté en DROP LACE (2 fils ensemble)? Je voudrais l'utilisé pour l'été. Merci

19.04.2019 - 17:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Benoît, DROPS Lace appartient au groupe A mais est un fil plus "dentelle" que BabyAlpaca Silk, vous n'obtiendrez pas la même texture, si vous envisagez cette éventualité, il sera indispensable de faire un échantillon au préalable pour bien vérifier votre tension ainsi que si la texture obtenue vous convient. Bon tricot!

23.04.2019 - 12:22

country flag Sara wrote:

No entiendo cómo son las puntadas del diagrama. Que significa M.1A M.2 etc.? Me pueden ayudar con la explicación?

18.02.2019 - 02:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sara. Debajo del patrón tienes las abreviaturas para leer los diagramas. Los diagramas presentan todas las filas del patrón vistas por el lado derecho. Para las filas por el lado derecho el diagrama se lee de derecha a izquierda y para las filas por el lado revés se lee de izquierda a derecha.

25.02.2019 - 20:18

country flag Sara wrote:

No entiendo cómo son las puntadas del diagrama. Que significa M.1A M.2 etc.? Me pueden ayudar con la explicación?

18.02.2019 - 02:28

DROPS Design answered:

Ver la respuesta arriba.

25.02.2019 - 20:19

country flag Lidia wrote:

Hi, I'm quite new to knitting; I just started to knit "Water Pebbles" but I don't know how to read in the back piece the following: P1 - 5 - 2 - 6 - 11..😓

08.02.2019 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Lidia, The numbers apply to the different sizes, so if you are knitting size S you use the first number in all the series in the pattern. Happy knitting!

09.02.2019 - 08:45

country flag Sandy wrote:

Sooo ein schönes Muster, verstehe nur leider nicht ob im Diagramm die Rückreihen mit eingezeichnet sind oder ob man sich die dazu denken muss. Also Hat Diagramm M.1A zum Beispiel jetzt 12 oder 24 Reihen? Und wenn es 12 sind, soll dann bei M. 2 ein kraus rechtes oder ein linkes Maschenbild (von rechts gesehen) entstehen?

07.11.2018 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sandy, Diagramme zeigen alle Reihe, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. Hinreihen lesen Sie rechts nach links und Rückreihen lesen Sie links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.11.2018 - 13:43