Fisher’s Fancy by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for women, men and kids in DROPS Karisma with cables and structure pattern. Womens size S/M - M/L. Men's size S/M - XXL. Kid's size 2 years - 13/14 years.

DROPS 59-6
DROPS Design: Modell no u-408
Yarn group B
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SIZE WOMEN AND MEN:
Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes
S/M - M/L (S/M - M/L - XL - XXL)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 116-128 (120-128-134-142) cm = 45 3/4"-50 3/8" (47 1/4"-50 3/8"-52 3/4"-55 3/4")
Full length: 60-64 (68-79-72-75) cm = 23 5/8"-25 1/4" (26 3/4"-31"-28 3/8"-29 1/2")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
850-950 (1050-1100-1250-1350) g color 01, natural

KNITTING TENSION WOMEN AND MEN:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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SIZE KIDS:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 (134/140 - 146/152 - 158)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 (4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12 - 5ft2)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-84-90-94 (100-108-114) cm = 29 1/2"-33"-35 1/2"-37" (39 3/8"-42 1/2"-45")
Full length: 41-45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm = 16 1/8"-17 3/4"-19"-21" (21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 5/8")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS KIDS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600(650-750-800) g color 01, natural

KNITTING GAUGE KIDS:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES KIDS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 2.10 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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START THE PIECE WOMEN AND MEN:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN WOMEN AND MEN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Numbers in () = men's sizes. Cast on 228-248 (236-248-260-268) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-3/8" -2-3/8" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 92-104 (100-104-108-116) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 320-352 (336-352-368-384) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3 *, place a second marker, repeat from * - * over the back.
When the work measures 35-38 (41-43-44-47) cm [13.75" - 14-7/8" (16-1/8" - 16-7/8" - 17.25" -18.5")], knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 1-3 (1-2-3-3) times, 1 st 2-4 (3-2-3-3) times = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. On the row before the work measures 54-58 (62-64-66-69) cm [21.25" - 22-7/8" (24-3/8" - 25.25" - 26" - 27-1/8")], dec 21-21 (21-21-25-25) sts evenly distributed over the center 56-58 (58-58-66-66) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) On the next row, bind off the center 35-37 (37-37-41-41) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 43-44 (45-48-45-49) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-5/8" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6-6 (6-6-4-4) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 37-38 (39-42-41-45) sts on the shoulder. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-5/8" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2 and 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4 = 115-119 (121-127-129-137) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right arm: Cast on 56-56 (56-56-60-60) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-3/8" - 2-3/8" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 28-28 (32-32-32-32) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 84-84 (88-88-92-92) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3.
After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 23-26 (26-26-26-26) times:
Sizes S/M + (S/M + XL + XXL): alternately every 4th and 5th row,
Size M/L: every 4th row
= 130-136 (140-140-144-144) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 46-45 (50-50-51-51) cm [18-1/8" - 17.75" (19.75" - 19.75" - 20" - 20")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) sts 8-10 (7-9-10-10) times and then 9-12 (12-9-6-6) sts 1 time = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) sts remain on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30-30 (30-30-30-30) sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm [6.5" - 6.75" (6.75" - 7" - 7" - 7-7/8")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by working 2 sts tog). On the next row bind off the outer 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the needles. Then continue knitting until the work measures 26-27 (27-27-28.5-30.5) cm [10.25" - 10-5/8" (10-5/8" - 10-5/8" -11.25" - 12")]. Put the sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 78-80 (83-85-87.5-89.5) cm [30.75" -31.5" (32-5/8" -33.5" -34.5" - 35.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 120-130 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 14 cm [5.5"] rib, bind off loosely in rib.

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START THE PIECE KIDS:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN KIDS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Cast on 164-180-196-204 (220-236-252) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 4-4-5-5 (5-6-6) cm [1.5" - 1.5" - 2" - 2" (2" - 2-3/8" - 2-3/8")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 44-44-44-68 (68-68-68) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 208-224-240-272 (288-304-320) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 + 5/6 years: *12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.

Sizes 7/8 (9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14) years: *16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.
All sizes: Work in pattern as established until the work measures 27-28-30-33 (34-35-37) cm [10-5/8" - 11" - 11.75" - 13" (13-3/8" - 13.75" - 14.5")]. Knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-2 (3-2-4) times, 1 st 2-4-4-2 (3-4-3) times = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. On the row before the work measures 36-40-43-47 (49-51-54) cm [14-1/8" - 15.75" - 16-7/8" - 18.5" (19.25" - 20" - 21.25")], dec 9-13-13-21 (21-21-21) sts evenly distributed over the center 34-44-44-50 (50-52-52) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the center 25-31-31-29 (29-31-31) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2 (2-2-2) times = 22-19-23-28 (29-33-34) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-1/8" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-7/8" - 22")], dec 6-4-4-6 (6-6-6) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 16-15-19-22 (23-27-28) sts on the shoulder (make decreases by K 2 tog). Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-1/8" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-7/8" - 22")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2, and for:
Sizes 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years: 9 sts evenly distributed over the 24 sts of Pattern 1 and Pattern 5
Sizes 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4
= 61-65-73-81 (83-93-95) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right sleeve: Cast on 44-44-48-48 (48-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 5 cm [2"] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 10-10-8-10 (10-12-12) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 54-54-56-58 (58-64-64) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) of Pattern 3, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) sts of Pattern 3. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 8-14-16-19 (21-21-23) times:
Size 2 years: every 7th row
Sizes 3/4 - 5/6 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 70-82-88-96 (100-106-110) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 25-28-32-36 (39-41-44) cm [9-7/8" - 11" - 12-5/8" - 14-1/8" (15.25" - 16-1/8" - 17.25")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row:
Size 2 years: 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 1 time
Size 3/4 years: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 2 times
Size 5/6 years: 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 5 times, 3 sts 3 times
Size 7/8 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 8 times, 4 sts 1 time
Size 9/10 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 10 times
Size 11/12 years: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 8 times, 5 sts 1 time
Size 13/14 years: 3 sts 13 times
= 28 sts remaining on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30 sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 7.5-7-8.5-10 (10.5-12-12.5) cm [3" - 2.75" - 3-3/8" - 4" (4-1/8" - 4.75" - 4-7/8")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side -- make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the outermost 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the row. Then continue knitting until the work measures 14-15-16.5-18.5 (19-21-21.5) cm [5.5" - 5-7/8" - 6.5" - 7.25" (7.5" - 8.25" - 8.5")]. Put sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 46-51-56.5-61.5 (66-70-74.5) cm [18-1/8" - 20" - 22.25" - 24.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 76-88-88-92 (92-96-96) sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm rib [2-3/8" - 2-3/8" - 2.75" - 2.75" (2.75" - 3-1/8" - 3-1/8")], bind off loosely in rib. Fold the neck edge over against the wrong side and sew.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.03.2022
Right sleeve: ... On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm = 6 3/8"-6 3/4" (6 3/4"-7"-7"-8") , dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by working 2 sts tog)...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, P 1, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 1 st from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, P 1 from the stitch holder
symbols = adult
symbols = child
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 59-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Kari Nilsen wrote:

Jeg skal felle til ermtopp, men skjønner ikke , fell i hver side 5-4(6-5-5-5)m x 8-10 (7-9-10-10) og deretter 9-12 (12-9-6-6)m x 1. Da skal det være igjen 28 m Takknemlig for hjelp til dette

22.02.2024 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Når du skal felle til ermtopp har du allerede felt 4 masker i alle str og har nå 126-132 (136-136-140-140) masker. Videre felles det til ermtopp i hver side på hver 2.p: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) masker x 8-10 (7-9-10-10) ganger = 40-40-42-45-50-50 masker i hver side = 80-80 (84-90-100-100) felte masker. Så skal det felles 9-12 (12-9-6-6) masker x 1 gang i hver side = 18-24 (24-18-12-12) felt masker. Du har nå felt tilsammen 98-104 (108-108-112-112). Du hadde 126-132 (136-136-140-140) masker og har felt 98-104 (108-108-112-112) masker = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) masker. mvh DROPS Design

26.02.2024 - 14:17

country flag Kari Nilsen wrote:

Hei. Er det riktig at det bare er igjen 8 masker etter ferdig felling på ermtopp? Det er for voksen størrelse

03.02.2024 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Ja, det stemmer. Men husk genseren har sadelskulder, så de 8 maskene du har til slutt blir liggende bak skuldren. mvh DROPS Design

09.02.2024 - 08:28

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi, unfortunately my son did not get his sweater for Christmas.... I have worked out all the cables, but cannot get the sizing right. He is in his early twenties, but has a size 87cm chest measurement and needs a length if 64 cm.... Even the men's small seems to big. I must be measuring wrong somehow? I have frogged my work 4 times know to try different sizes and just want to get it right. Any ideas on what I need to do or best size? Many thanks

23.07.2023 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, this model is quite wide, not too tight to the body, which is why the measurements are quite big. You can see in the photo that the model has quite a loose fit for this sweater. In any case, you can use the width of the child version of the sweater, which should have the correct measurements for the chest indicated (for example, the third or 4th sizes) for the placement of the cable pattern. And then just work the length indicated for the men´s sizes or the desired length. Happy knitting!

26.07.2023 - 15:49

country flag Fischers Fancy wrote:

Guten Tag, leider verstehe ich folgendes Stück am Anfang der Anleitung nicht. Es soll ein XL Pullover werden. Muster wie folgt stricken: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) M. von M.3, M.2, M.4, M.2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) M. von M3 *, von *-* über das Rückenteil wiederholen. Gibt es eine deutschsprachige telefonische Beratung? Ist oft besser beim erklären. Mfg

10.07.2023 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Fischers Fancy, M.2, M.3 und M.4 sind die Diagramme, die Sie unter der Musteranleitung finden. Für Größe XL wie folgt stricken: M3 über 40 Maschen, M2 1 Mal, M4 1 Mal, M2 1 Mal, M3 über 40 Maschen. Auf die gleiche Weise mit den hinteren Maschen wiederholen. Weitere Informationen zum Stricken der Diagramme finden Sie in der folgenden Lektion:https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=9. Sie können die Hilfe des Ladens, bei dem Sie das Garn gekauft haben, in Anspruch nehmen. Viele Spass beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 10:17

country flag Lisbeth Hyldgaard wrote:

Ved montering skal ærmer syes med maskering eller ….? Hvad er pænest og mest holdbart?

24.05.2023 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, nederst i opskriften har vi valgt 2 monteringsvideoer ud som kan bruges til denne model :)

24.05.2023 - 13:53

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi, this will be the first time I have done cables but my son has his heart set on this sweater for Christmas! I do have a question about the increase after the garter stitch - he is a S/M so it looks like I have to increase by 100 stitches after I have done the first 4 rows of garter, is this correct, increase by 100 before the next 2 rows garter st? What is the best way to do this? Many thanks

14.11.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Catherine, To work out how to increase evenly, divide the number of stitches by the number of increases (236/100 = 2.6). So here you increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately the 2nd and 3rd stitches on the whole round. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted (work in the back loop) to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

15.11.2022 - 07:09

country flag Sharon Shaw wrote:

Don’t have a video showing how to see in the sleeves do you? Have only ever done this with a plain jumper? Thanks

04.05.2022 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Shaw, there aren't video showing how to knit this kind of sleeve, you work both sleeves to armhole the same, but then you will have to work top of each sleeve a different way to shape shoulders at the same time, cast off as explained in the pattern. You then sew the sleeves together mid on back piece. Then sew the back piece along the last part of sleeve and the cast off sts for each shoulder on front piece along the other side (shorter side) on top of sleeve. Happy knitting!

05.05.2022 - 08:34

country flag Sharon Shaw wrote:

Sorry another quick question I have wrong side facing me when it is telling me to bind off 12 stitches on the right side, a little confused is this still on right even though wrong side facing me? Thanks

16.04.2022 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, it means in the side of the garment that is in the right hand (not the RS). Happy knitting!

17.04.2022 - 12:00

country flag Sharon Shaw wrote:

Hi, Am coming towards the end of my fishers fancy jumper, am at the top of the sleeve having worked the 18 cm shoulder part, when I carry on on the 8 sts am I still working in pattern or in garter stitch or knit a row purl a row? Thanks for your help, the pattern is beautiful.

15.04.2022 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you continue working according to the pattern. Happy knitting!

15.04.2022 - 19:59

country flag Sharon Shaw wrote:

Please can you clarify when I get to the bit where it says work front and back separate do I then need to change to straight needles I presume? Thanks for you help.

14.02.2022 - 22:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sharon, No, you can continue working with circular needles when working back and forth. Happy knitting!

15.02.2022 - 08:21

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