DROPS / 59 / 6

Fisher’s Fancy by DROPS Design

DROPS Men’s Sweater in Karisma Superwash

ADULT’S SWEATER:

Sizes:
Women’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished measurements: 116-128 cm [45-5/8" - 50-3/8"]
Men’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large (Extra Large - Extra-Extra-Large)
Finished measurements: 120-128-134-142 cm [47.25" - 50-3/8" - 52.75" - 55-7/8"]
Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes.

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
850-950 (1050-1100-1250-1350) g. Col. 01, natural

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 1] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
ADULT’S SWEATER:

Gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in Pattern 3 = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side. The charts are identical for all sizes.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter st, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl.* Repeat from * - *.

Rib: *K 2, P 2*. Repeat from * - *.

Body: Numbers in () = men's sizes. Cast on 228-248 (236-248-260-268) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-3/8" -2-3/8" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 92-104 (100-104-108-116) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 320-352 (336-352-368-384) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3 *, place a second marker, repeat from * - * over the back.
When the work measures 35-38 (41-43-44-47) cm [13.75" - 14-7/8" (16-1/8" - 16-7/8" - 17.25" -18.5")], knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 1-3 (1-2-3-3) times, 1 st 2-4 (3-2-3-3) times = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. On the row before the work measures 54-58 (62-64-66-69) cm [21.25" - 22-7/8" (24-3/8" - 25.25" - 26" - 27-1/8")], dec 21-21 (21-21-25-25) sts evenly distributed over the center 56-58 (58-58-66-66) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) On the next row, bind off the center 35-37 (37-37-41-41) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 43-44 (45-48-45-49) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-5/8" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6-6 (6-6-4-4) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 37-38 (39-42-41-45) sts on the shoulder. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-5/8" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2 and 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4 = 115-119 (121-127-129-137) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right arm: Cast on 56-56 (56-56-60-60) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-3/8" - 2-3/8" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 28-28 (32-32-32-32) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 84-84 (88-88-92-92) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3.
After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 23-26 (26-26-26-26) times:
Sizes S/M + (S/M + XL + XXL): alternately every 4th and 5th row,
Size M/L: every 4th row
= 130-136 (140-140-144-144) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 46-45 (50-50-51-51) cm [18-1/8" - 17.75" (19.75" - 19.75" - 20" - 20")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) sts 8-10 (7-9-10-10) times and then 9-12 (12-9-6-6) sts 1 time = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) sts remain on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30-30 (30-30-30-30) sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm [6.5" - 6.75" (6.75" - 7" - 7" - 7-7/8")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row bind off the outer 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the needles. Then continue knitting until the work measures 26-27 (27-27-28.5-30.5) cm [10.25" - 10-5/8" (10-5/8" - 10-5/8" -11.25" - 12")]. Put the sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 78-80 (83-85-87.5-89.5) cm [30.75" -31.5" (32-5/8" -33.5" -34.5" - 35.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 120-130 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 14 cm [5.5"] rib, bind off loosely in rib.





CHILD’S SWEATER:

Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years.
Finished measurements: 74-78-84-94 (100-104-110) cm [29-1/8" - 30.75" - 33" - 37" (39-3/8" - 41" - 43.25")]

Materials: DROPS KARISMA CLASSIC from Garnstudio
(100% wool) 50 g./120 yards
450-500-550-600 (650-750-800) g. Col. 01, natural
Alternate yarns: (See list under Adult model)

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] and 3.5 mm [US 4] circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts x 30 rows on larger needles in Pattern 3 = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side. The charts are identical for all sizes.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter st, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl.* Repeat from * - *.

Rib: *K 2, P 2*. Repeat from * - *.

Body: Cast on 164-180-196-204 (220-236-252) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 4-4-5-5 (5-6-6) cm [1.5" - 1.5" - 2" - 2" (2" - 2-3/8" - 2-3/8")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 44-44-44-68 (68-68-68) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 208-224-240-272 (288-304-320) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 + 5/6 years: *12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.

Sizes 7/8 (9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14) years: *16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.
All sizes: Work in pattern as established until the work measures 27-28-30-33 (34-35-37) cm [10-5/8" - 11" - 11.75" - 13" (13-3/8" - 13.75" - 14.5")]. Knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-2 (3-2-4) times, 1 st 2-4-4-2 (3-4-3) times = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. On the row before the work measures 36-40-43-47 (49-51-54) cm [14-1/8" - 15.75" - 16-7/8" - 18.5" (19.25" - 20" - 21.25")], dec 9-13-13-21 (21-21-21) sts evenly distributed over the center 34-44-44-50 (50-52-52) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the center 25-31-31-29 (29-31-31) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2 (2-2-2) times = 22-19-23-28 (29-33-34) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-1/8" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-7/8" - 22")], dec 6-4-4-6 (6-6-6) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 16-15-19-22 (23-27-28) sts on the shoulder (make decreases by K 2 tog). Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-1/8" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-7/8" - 22")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2, and for:
Sizes 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years: 9 sts evenly distributed over the 24 sts of Pattern 1 and Pattern 5
Sizes 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4
= 61-65-73-81 (83-93-95) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right sleeve: Cast on 44-44-48-48 (48-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 5 cm [2"] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 10-10-8-10 (10-12-12) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 54-54-56-58 (58-64-64) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) of Pattern 3, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) sts of Pattern 3. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 8-14-16-19 (21-21-23) times:
Size 2 years: every 7th row
Sizes 3/4 - 5/6 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 70-82-88-96 (100-106-110) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 25-28-32-36 (39-41-44) cm [9-7/8" - 11" - 12-5/8" - 14-1/8" (15.25" - 16-1/8" - 17.25")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row:
Size 2 years: 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 1 time
Size 3/4 years: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 2 times
Size 5/6 years: 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 5 times, 3 sts 3 times
Size 7/8 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 8 times, 4 sts 1 time
Size 9/10 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 10 times
Size 11/12 years: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 8 times, 5 sts 1 time
Size 13/14 years: 3 sts 13 times
= 28 sts remaining on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30 sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 7.5-7-8.5-10 (10.5-12-12.5) cm [3" - 2.75" - 3-3/8" - 4" (4-1/8" - 4.75" - 4-7/8")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side -- make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the outermost 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the row. Then continue knitting until the work measures 14-15-16.5-18.5 (19-21-21.5) cm [5.5" - 5-7/8" - 6.5" - 7.25" (7.5" - 8.25" - 8.5")]. Put sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 46-51-56.5-61.5 (66-70-74.5) cm [18-1/8" - 20" - 22.25" - 24.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 76-88-88-92 (92-96-96) sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm rib [2-3/8" - 2-3/8" - 2.75" - 2.75" (2.75" - 3-1/8" - 3-1/8")], bind off loosely in rib. Fold the neck edge over against the wrong side and sew.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
= put 3 sts from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
= put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, P 1, K 3 from the stitch holder
= put 1 st from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, P 1 from the stitch holder
= adult
= child



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 59-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (29)

Shawn Holland 13.05.2020 - 06:00:

After ribbing and increases, I have 336 stitches per the pattern. Next step is to work 32 stitches of each of the following patterns in sequence (if I am understanding correctly); Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2 and Pattern 3. Then place marker & repeat. I've done two rounds, and I end up with 16 leftover stitches after working the second set of 32 stitches from pattern 3. I went ahead and started using Pattern 3 again, but it doesn't seem correct. Please advise. Thank you!

DROPS Design 13.05.2020 kl. 09:01:

Dear Mrs Holland, work the 336 sts as follows: *32 sts as in diagram M.3, then work diagram M.2 (=28 sts), then work diagram M.4 (=48 sts), then work diagram M.2 again (= 28 sts) and work 32 sts as in diagram M.3*, repeat from *-* = 32+28+48+28+32=168x2= 336 sts. Happy knitting!

Lynne 19.04.2020 - 02:16:

Once I am down to 8 stitches at the top of the sleeve, the pattern says to knit until the work measures 26 cm. What stitch do I use?

DROPS Design 19.04.2020 kl. 20:44:

Dear Lynne, for the saddle part of the sleeve, you should continue to knit the cable pattern as before. Happy Knitting!

Shawn Holland 12.04.2020 - 02:15:

The instructions for the gauge swatch are unclear to me. Of the three charts on page 8 of the pattern, which one is “Pattern 3” that the gauge instructions refer to?

DROPS Design 12.04.2020 kl. 17:52:

Dear Shawn. The gauge is calculated by working the chart M.3 (below the sleeve in the sketch). Happy knitting!

Le Vourch 05.01.2020 - 08:25:

Bonjour j\'arrive aux diminutions de la manche (pull homme, taille M) (2+4+10+12)x2 mais je me retrouve avec 80 mailles et non 28. Je ne comprend pas comment poursuivre la fin de la manche.\r\n\r\nCordialement.

Lynne 04.01.2020 - 22:04:

I have reached the part on the sleeve where I am supposed to begin binding off. Why is the women's s/m 46 cm when the women's m/l is only 45cm when you begin binding off? Also, before that, does it really make a difference if I increased every 4th row as opposed to alternately every 4th and 5th row?

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 08:17:

Dear Lynne, the sleeves are longer in smaller sizes since the sleeve cap will be then shorter - see measurement chart. Increasing every 4th round instead of alternately every 4th and every 5th round will require less rows to achieve all increases. Happy knitting!

LynneCT 17.12.2019 - 02:57:

I am still confused. When you say the knit previous stitch of diagram at the beginning, and the next stitch of the diagram at the end, which stitches are those? Which pattern?

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 09:35:

Dear LynneCT, this depends on the first and last stitch worked in the diagram, just mark these stitches in the diagrams so that you know which is the first stitch at the beg of the round and the last stitch at the end of the round. If the first stitch to work is the first st in the diagram, the increase st should be worked as the last stitch this diagram so that it continue towards the right. At the end of the round, work the increase st as next st in diagram, should the last stitch be the last stitch in diagram, you will then have to work the inc st as the first stitch on the right so that pattern continue to the left. Happy knitting!

LynneCT 12.12.2019 - 21:53:

I am knitting the sleeves. women's size Small. After I increase the first time after the ribbing, where I am supposed to knit 2 stitches of Pattern 3, I now have an extra stitch. Do I knit the last stitch of Pattern 3, and then the first 2 stitches? The same for the end of the row. Do I knit the first 3 stitches of Pattern 3?

DROPS Design 13.12.2019 kl. 08:22:

Dear LynneCT, at the beg of the round you work the new stitches as the previous stitch in diagram and at the end of the round you work the new stitches as the next stitch in diagram, so that pattern won't fit mid under sleeve but will grow from the P2 towards mid under sleeve on each side. Happy knitting!

Peggy T 13.11.2019 - 19:11:

I am having trouble with binding off about knitting Women's S/M. I am working the front side. I deceased 21 st over the center 56, then bound off center 35. I next bound off 2 st, then 1 st on each side. However, I only ended up with 41 st for shoulder, not 43. It only works out if I decrease 13 stitches over center 48, then bind off 2 st, then 1 each side. Am I doing something wrong?

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 09:39:

Dear Peggy T, you should have 148 sts after shaping armholes, then decrease 21 sts over the middle 56 sts = 148-21= 127 sts, then cast off the middle 35 sts = 92 sts/2 sides = 46 sts for each shoulder. You then bind off 2 sts 1 time + 1 st 2 times = 46-2-1=43 sts remain for shoulder. Happy knitting!

Peggy T 03.08.2019 - 03:57:

I am confused about what to do when I reach the part on the body after the first bind off where it says knit the rest of the front and back separately. Do I work with 2 different balls of yarn?

DROPS Design 03.08.2019 kl. 18:19:

Hello Peggy. After you bind off for the armholes, you work back and front as two separate pieces. You can first work the front piece and once the front is finished, work on the back piece. If you prefer, you can work the two piece at the same time, but you will have to work with separate balls of yarn. Happy knitting!

Gaëlle 29.07.2019 - 13:29:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé la manche du tricot en taille M/L, mais, après les côtes et les 28 augmentations, arrivé au diagramme, je me retrouve avec 84 mailles à tricoter et des diagrammes à suivre pour 56 mailles. Pouvez-vous me fournir un rectificatif ? Cordialement.

DROPS Design 29.07.2019 kl. 17:20:

Bonjour Gaelle! Changez pour les aiguilles double pointes 3,5 mm et établissez le patron comme suit: 2 mailles du diagramme M3, diagramme M2, diagramme M1, diagramme M5, diagramme M2, 2 mailles du diagramme M3 = 84 mailles au total (2+28+12+12+28+2). Bon tricot!

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