DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
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Fisher’s Fancy

Knitted sweater for women, men and kids in DROPS Karisma with cables and structure pattern. Womens size S/M - M/L. Men's size S/M - XXL. Kid's size 2 years - 13/14 years.

DROPS 59-6
DROPS Design: Modell no u-408
Yarn group B
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SIZE WOMEN AND MEN:
Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes
S/M - M/L (S/M - M/L - XL - XXL)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 116-128 (120-128-134-142) cm = 45¾"-50⅜" (47¼"-50⅜"-52¾"-55¾")
Full length: 60-64 (68-79-72-75) cm = 23⅝"-25¼" (26¾"-31"-28⅜"-29½")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
850-950 (1050-1100-1250-1350) g color 01, natural

KNITTING TENSION WOMEN AND MEN:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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SIZE KIDS:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 (134/140 - 146/152 - 158)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 (4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12 - 5ft2)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-84-90-94 (100-108-114) cm = 29½"-33"-35½"-37" (39⅜"-42½"-45")
Full length: 41-45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm = 16⅛"-17¾"-19"-21" (21⅝"-22½"-23⅝")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS KIDS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600(650-750-800) g color 01, natural

KNITTING GAUGE KIDS:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES KIDS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Baby Children Men Children Jumpers Baby Jumpers Men's Jumpers Aran Knittingbottom up cable high neck relief saddle shoulder seed st sewn in sleeves
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
 100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (62)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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START THE PIECE WOMEN AND MEN:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN WOMEN AND MEN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Numbers in () = men's sizes. Cast on 228-248 (236-248-260-268) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-⅜" -2-⅜" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 92-104 (100-104-108-116) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 320-352 (336-352-368-384) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3 *, place a second marker, repeat from * - * over the back.
When the work measures 35-38 (41-43-44-47) cm [13.75" - 14-⅞" (16-⅛" - 16-⅞" - 17.25" -18.5")], knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 1-3 (1-2-3-3) times, 1 st 2-4 (3-2-3-3) times = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. On the row before the work measures 54-58 (62-64-66-69) cm [21.25" - 22-⅞" (24-⅜" - 25.25" - 26" - 27-⅛")], dec 21-21 (21-21-25-25) sts evenly distributed over the center 56-58 (58-58-66-66) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) On the next row, bind off the center 35-37 (37-37-41-41) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 43-44 (45-48-45-49) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-⅝" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6-6 (6-6-4-4) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 37-38 (39-42-41-45) sts on the shoulder. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-⅝" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2 and 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4 = 115-119 (121-127-129-137) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right arm: Cast on 56-56 (56-56-60-60) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-⅜" - 2-⅜" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 28-28 (32-32-32-32) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 84-84 (88-88-92-92) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3.
After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 23-26 (26-26-26-26) times:
Sizes S/M + (S/M + XL + XXL): alternately every 4th and 5th row,
Size M/L: every 4th row
= 130-136 (140-140-144-144) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 46-45 (50-50-51-51) cm [18-⅛" - 17.75" (19.75" - 19.75" - 20" - 20")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) sts 8-10 (7-9-10-10) times and then 9-12 (12-9-6-6) sts 1 time = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) sts remain on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30-30 (30-30-30-30) sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm [6.5" - 6.75" (6.75" - 7" - 7" - 7-⅞")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by working 2 sts tog). On the next row bind off the outer 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the needles. Then continue knitting until the work measures 26-27 (27-27-28.5-30.5) cm [10.25" - 10-⅝" (10-⅝" - 10-⅝" -11.25" - 12")]. Put the sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 78-80 (83-85-87.5-89.5) cm [30.75" -31.5" (32-⅝" -33.5" -34.5" - 35.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 120-130 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 14 cm [5.5"] rib, bind off loosely in rib.

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START THE PIECE KIDS:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN KIDS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Cast on 164-180-196-204 (220-236-252) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 4-4-5-5 (5-6-6) cm [1.5" - 1.5" - 2" - 2" (2" - 2-⅜" - 2-⅜")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 44-44-44-68 (68-68-68) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 208-224-240-272 (288-304-320) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 + 5/6 years: *12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.

Sizes 7/8 (9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14) years: *16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.
All sizes: Work in pattern as established until the work measures 27-28-30-33 (34-35-37) cm [10-⅝" - 11" - 11.75" - 13" (13-⅜" - 13.75" - 14.5")]. Knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-2 (3-2-4) times, 1 st 2-4-4-2 (3-4-3) times = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. On the row before the work measures 36-40-43-47 (49-51-54) cm [14-⅛" - 15.75" - 16-⅞" - 18.5" (19.25" - 20" - 21.25")], dec 9-13-13-21 (21-21-21) sts evenly distributed over the center 34-44-44-50 (50-52-52) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the center 25-31-31-29 (29-31-31) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2 (2-2-2) times = 22-19-23-28 (29-33-34) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-⅛" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-⅞" - 22")], dec 6-4-4-6 (6-6-6) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 16-15-19-22 (23-27-28) sts on the shoulder (make decreases by K 2 tog). Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-⅛" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-⅞" - 22")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2, and for:
Sizes 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years: 9 sts evenly distributed over the 24 sts of Pattern 1 and Pattern 5
Sizes 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4
= 61-65-73-81 (83-93-95) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right sleeve: Cast on 44-44-48-48 (48-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 5 cm [2"] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 10-10-8-10 (10-12-12) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 54-54-56-58 (58-64-64) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) of Pattern 3, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) sts of Pattern 3. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 8-14-16-19 (21-21-23) times:
Size 2 years: every 7th row
Sizes 3/4 - 5/6 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 70-82-88-96 (100-106-110) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 25-28-32-36 (39-41-44) cm [9-⅞" - 11" - 12-⅝" - 14-⅛" (15.25" - 16-⅛" - 17.25")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row:
Size 2 years: 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 1 time
Size 3/4 years: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 2 times
Size 5/6 years: 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 5 times, 3 sts 3 times
Size 7/8 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 8 times, 4 sts 1 time
Size 9/10 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 10 times
Size 11/12 years: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 8 times, 5 sts 1 time
Size 13/14 years: 3 sts 13 times
= 28 sts remaining on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30 sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 7.5-7-8.5-10 (10.5-12-12.5) cm [3" - 2.75" - 3-⅜" - 4" (4-⅛" - 4.75" - 4-⅞")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side -- make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the outermost 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the row. Then continue knitting until the work measures 14-15-16.5-18.5 (19-21-21.5) cm [5.5" - 5-⅞" - 6.5" - 7.25" (7.5" - 8.25" - 8.5")]. Put sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 46-51-56.5-61.5 (66-70-74.5) cm [18-⅛" - 20" - 22.25" - 24.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 76-88-88-92 (92-96-96) sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm rib [2-⅜" - 2-⅜" - 2.75" - 2.75" (2.75" - 3-⅛" - 3-⅛")], bind off loosely in rib. Fold the neck edge over against the wrong side and sew.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.03.2022
Right sleeve: ... On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm = 6 3/8"-6 3/4" (6 3/4"-7"-7"-8") , dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by working 2 sts tog)...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, P 1, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbols = put 1 st from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, P 1 from the stitch holder
symbols = adult
symbols = child
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Tammy wrote:

I am at the arm hole section of the sweater. I divided the front and back sections. How do returns on each back section without messing with the right side of the sweater?

17.09.2024 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tammy, check on which row of the diagram you divided the body, if you divided on a odd numbered row, then start front/back piece with a row from WS ; if you divided on a even numbered row then start front/back piece with a row from RS. Happy knitting!

18.09.2024 - 08:02

country flag Ariane Kaeser wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai une question sur la compréhension du modèle. Je prends la petite taille enfant. Si je fais 12 mailles de M3+28m M2+12m M1+12m M5+12m M5+12m M3 j'arrive à 88m x 2 =176m Le modèle dit 208m. Pouvez-vous me dire ce que je fais de faux ? Merci d'avance

13.09.2024 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kaeser, il y avait une erreur dans les motifs à tricoter, vous devez procéder ainsi: en 2ans:*12 mailles de M3, M2 (28 m), M1 (12 m), M5 (12 m), M2 (28m), 12 mailles de M3*, soit (12+28+12+12+28+12)x2=208 mailles. La correction a été faite, merci. Bon tricot!

13.09.2024 - 16:40

country flag Freya wrote:

Edit to my comment I just left- at the end I meant I only have enough for pattern 1 and 5 with 3 extras on each side (including the added seam stitch) . Thanks!

03.04.2024 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Freya, if you get the 28 sts + the 2 new sts for seam allowance you should just have the pattern working: 1 edge stitch (new stitch cast on), P2 ,(remaining 2 sts from previous M.2), M.1 (12 sts), M.5 (12 sts) - just as before, P2 (remaining 2 sts from previous M.2) and 1 edge stitch (new stitch cast on) = 1+2+12+12+2+1=30 sts. Happy knitting!

04.04.2024 - 08:16

country flag Freya wrote:

I’m knitting men’s S/M and on the right arm. I have cast off to have 28 stitches remaining and then inc. 1 on each side for seam. Next step says “Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st”, which adds up to 82 stitches (2 edges, 28 each P2, 12 each P1 and P5), not 30. I only have room for Pattern 2 (which is the continuation of my current knitting) and 2 edges. Pls let me know how to continue, thanks.

03.04.2024 - 19:40

country flag Kari Nilsen wrote:

Jeg skal felle til ermtopp, men skjønner ikke , fell i hver side 5-4(6-5-5-5)m x 8-10 (7-9-10-10) og deretter 9-12 (12-9-6-6)m x 1. Da skal det være igjen 28 m Takknemlig for hjelp til dette

22.02.2024 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Når du skal felle til ermtopp har du allerede felt 4 masker i alle str og har nå 126-132 (136-136-140-140) masker. Videre felles det til ermtopp i hver side på hver 2.p: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) masker x 8-10 (7-9-10-10) ganger = 40-40-42-45-50-50 masker i hver side = 80-80 (84-90-100-100) felte masker. Så skal det felles 9-12 (12-9-6-6) masker x 1 gang i hver side = 18-24 (24-18-12-12) felt masker. Du har nå felt tilsammen 98-104 (108-108-112-112). Du hadde 126-132 (136-136-140-140) masker og har felt 98-104 (108-108-112-112) masker = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) masker. mvh DROPS Design

26.02.2024 - 14:17

country flag Kari Nilsen wrote:

Hei. Er det riktig at det bare er igjen 8 masker etter ferdig felling på ermtopp? Det er for voksen størrelse

03.02.2024 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kari. Ja, det stemmer. Men husk genseren har sadelskulder, så de 8 maskene du har til slutt blir liggende bak skuldren. mvh DROPS Design

09.02.2024 - 08:28

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi, unfortunately my son did not get his sweater for Christmas.... I have worked out all the cables, but cannot get the sizing right. He is in his early twenties, but has a size 87cm chest measurement and needs a length if 64 cm.... Even the men's small seems to big. I must be measuring wrong somehow? I have frogged my work 4 times know to try different sizes and just want to get it right. Any ideas on what I need to do or best size? Many thanks

23.07.2023 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, this model is quite wide, not too tight to the body, which is why the measurements are quite big. You can see in the photo that the model has quite a loose fit for this sweater. In any case, you can use the width of the child version of the sweater, which should have the correct measurements for the chest indicated (for example, the third or 4th sizes) for the placement of the cable pattern. And then just work the length indicated for the men´s sizes or the desired length. Happy knitting!

26.07.2023 - 15:49

country flag Fischers Fancy wrote:

Guten Tag, leider verstehe ich folgendes Stück am Anfang der Anleitung nicht. Es soll ein XL Pullover werden. Muster wie folgt stricken: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) M. von M.3, M.2, M.4, M.2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) M. von M3 *, von *-* über das Rückenteil wiederholen. Gibt es eine deutschsprachige telefonische Beratung? Ist oft besser beim erklären. Mfg

10.07.2023 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Fischers Fancy, M.2, M.3 und M.4 sind die Diagramme, die Sie unter der Musteranleitung finden. Für Größe XL wie folgt stricken: M3 über 40 Maschen, M2 1 Mal, M4 1 Mal, M2 1 Mal, M3 über 40 Maschen. Auf die gleiche Weise mit den hinteren Maschen wiederholen. Weitere Informationen zum Stricken der Diagramme finden Sie in der folgenden Lektion:https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=9. Sie können die Hilfe des Ladens, bei dem Sie das Garn gekauft haben, in Anspruch nehmen. Viele Spass beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 10:17

country flag Lisbeth Hyldgaard wrote:

Ved montering skal ærmer syes med maskering eller ….? Hvad er pænest og mest holdbart?

24.05.2023 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, nederst i opskriften har vi valgt 2 monteringsvideoer ud som kan bruges til denne model :)

24.05.2023 - 13:53

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi, this will be the first time I have done cables but my son has his heart set on this sweater for Christmas! I do have a question about the increase after the garter stitch - he is a S/M so it looks like I have to increase by 100 stitches after I have done the first 4 rows of garter, is this correct, increase by 100 before the next 2 rows garter st? What is the best way to do this? Many thanks

14.11.2022 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Catherine, To work out how to increase evenly, divide the number of stitches by the number of increases (236/100 = 2.6). So here you increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately the 2nd and 3rd stitches on the whole round. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted (work in the back loop) to avoid holes. Happy knitting!

15.11.2022 - 07:09

Fisher’s Fancy



Knitted sweater for women, men and kids in DROPS Karisma with cables and structure pattern. Womens size S/M - M/L. Men's size S/M - XXL. Kid's size 2 years - 13/14 years.

DROPS 59-6
DROPS Design: Modell no u-408
Yarn group B
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SIZE WOMEN AND MEN:
Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes
S/M - M/L (S/M - M/L - XL - XXL)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 116-128 (120-128-134-142) cm = 45¾"-50⅜" (47¼"-50⅜"-52¾"-55¾")
Full length: 60-64 (68-79-72-75) cm = 23⅝"-25¼" (26¾"-31"-28⅜"-29½")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
850-950 (1050-1100-1250-1350) g color 01, natural

KNITTING TENSION WOMEN AND MEN:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES WOMEN AND MEN:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

SIZE KIDS:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 (134/140 - 146/152 - 158)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in feet:
3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 – 4ft/4ft2 (4ft5/4ft7 – 4ft9/4ft12 - 5ft2)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-84-90-94 (100-108-114) cm = 29½"-33"-35½"-37" (39⅜"-42½"-45")
Full length: 41-45-48-53 (55-57-60) cm = 16⅛"-17¾"-19"-21" (21⅝"-22½"-23⅝")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS KIDS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600(650-750-800) g color 01, natural

KNITTING GAUGE KIDS:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES KIDS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1,5: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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START THE PIECE WOMEN AND MEN:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN WOMEN AND MEN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

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Body: Numbers in () = men's sizes. Cast on 228-248 (236-248-260-268) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-⅜" -2-⅜" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 92-104 (100-104-108-116) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 320-352 (336-352-368-384) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows: * 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 28-36 (32-36-40-44) sts of Pattern 3 *, place a second marker, repeat from * - * over the back.
When the work measures 35-38 (41-43-44-47) cm [13.75" - 14-⅞" (16-⅛" - 16-⅞" - 17.25" -18.5")], knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 2 sts 1-3 (1-2-3-3) times, 1 st 2-4 (3-2-3-3) times = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. On the row before the work measures 54-58 (62-64-66-69) cm [21.25" - 22-⅞" (24-⅜" - 25.25" - 26" - 27-⅛")], dec 21-21 (21-21-25-25) sts evenly distributed over the center 56-58 (58-58-66-66) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) On the next row, bind off the center 35-37 (37-37-41-41) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 43-44 (45-48-45-49) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-⅝" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6-6 (6-6-4-4) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 37-38 (39-42-41-45) sts on the shoulder. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 156-172 (164-172-180-188) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 148-152 (154-160-162-170) sts. When the work measures 56-60 (64-66-68-71) cm [22" - 23-⅝" (25.25" - 26" - 26.75" - 28")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2 and 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4 = 115-119 (121-127-129-137) sts. (Make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right arm: Cast on 56-56 (56-56-60-60) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6 (7-7-7-7) cm [2-⅜" - 2-⅜" (2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75" - 2.75")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 28-28 (32-32-32-32) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 84-84 (88-88-92-92) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 2-2 (4-4-6-6) sts of Pattern 3.
After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 23-26 (26-26-26-26) times:
Sizes S/M + (S/M + XL + XXL): alternately every 4th and 5th row,
Size M/L: every 4th row
= 130-136 (140-140-144-144) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 46-45 (50-50-51-51) cm [18-⅛" - 17.75" (19.75" - 19.75" - 20" - 20")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 5-4 (6-5-5-5) sts 8-10 (7-9-10-10) times and then 9-12 (12-9-6-6) sts 1 time = 28-28 (28-28-28-28) sts remain on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30-30 (30-30-30-30) sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 16.5-17 (17-18-18-20) cm [6.5" - 6.75" (6.75" - 7" - 7" - 7-⅞")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side) (Make decreases by working 2 sts tog). On the next row bind off the outer 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the needles. Then continue knitting until the work measures 26-27 (27-27-28.5-30.5) cm [10.25" - 10-⅝" (10-⅝" - 10-⅝" -11.25" - 12")]. Put the sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 78-80 (83-85-87.5-89.5) cm [30.75" -31.5" (32-⅝" -33.5" -34.5" - 35.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 120-130 sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 14 cm [5.5"] rib, bind off loosely in rib.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE KIDS:

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN KIDS:

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1, M.2, M.3, M.4 and M.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIB:
* knit 2 / purl 2 *. Repeat from *-*.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows knit.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * knit 1 round and purl 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

-------------------------------------------------------


Body: Cast on 164-180-196-204 (220-236-252) sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 4-4-5-5 (5-6-6) cm [1.5" - 1.5" - 2" - 2" (2" - 2-⅜" - 2-⅜")] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 44-44-44-68 (68-68-68) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 208-224-240-272 (288-304-320) sts. Change to larger circular needles and establish pattern over the front as follows:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 + 5/6 years: *12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, Pattern 2, 12-16-20 sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.

Sizes 7/8 (9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14) years: *16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3, Pattern 2, Pattern 4, Pattern 2, 16 (20-24-28) sts of Pattern 3*, place a second marker, repeat from * - * across the back.
All sizes: Work in pattern as established until the work measures 27-28-30-33 (34-35-37) cm [10-⅝" - 11" - 11.75" - 13" (13-⅜" - 13.75" - 14.5")]. Knit the next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the front, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts for the back, bind off 2 sts for armhole. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2-2 (3-2-4) times, 1 st 2-4-4-2 (3-4-3) times = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. On the row before the work measures 36-40-43-47 (49-51-54) cm [14-⅛" - 15.75" - 16-⅞" - 18.5" (19.25" - 20" - 21.25")], dec 9-13-13-21 (21-21-21) sts evenly distributed over the center 34-44-44-50 (50-52-52) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the center 25-31-31-29 (29-31-31) sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-2 (2-2-2) times = 22-19-23-28 (29-33-34) sts on each shoulder. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-⅛" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-⅞" - 22")], dec 6-4-4-6 (6-6-6) sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts of Pattern 2 = 16-15-19-22 (23-27-28) sts on the shoulder (make decreases by K 2 tog). Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Back: = 100-108-116-132 (140-148-156) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 82-86-94-114 (116-126-128) sts. When the work measures 37-41-44-49 (51-53-56) cm [14.5" - 16-⅛" - 17.25" - 19.25" (20" - 20-⅞" - 22")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the center 12 sts of each Pattern 2, and for:
Sizes 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years: 9 sts evenly distributed over the 24 sts of Pattern 1 and Pattern 5
Sizes 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: 21 sts evenly distributed over the 48 sts of Pattern 4
= 61-65-73-81 (83-93-95) sts (make decreases by K 2 tog.) Knit 2 rows garter st (for seam), bind off.

Right sleeve: Cast on 44-44-48-48 (48-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st, 5 cm [2"] rib, 2 rows garter st, increasing 10-10-8-10 (10-12-12) sts evenly distributed on the last row = 54-54-56-58 (58-64-64) sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) of Pattern 3, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 13-13-14-15 (15-18-18) sts of Pattern 3. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 8-14-16-19 (21-21-23) times:
Size 2 years: every 7th row
Sizes 3/4 - 5/6 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row
= 70-82-88-96 (100-106-110) sts (knit the increased sts into Pattern 3 as you go along). When the work measures 25-28-32-36 (39-41-44) cm [9-⅞" - 11" - 12-⅝" - 14-⅛" (15.25" - 16-⅛" - 17.25")], bind off 2 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Then bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row:
Size 2 years: 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 1 time
Size 3/4 years: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 8 times, 3 sts 2 times
Size 5/6 years: 3 sts 3 times, 2 sts 5 times, 3 sts 3 times
Size 7/8 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 8 times, 4 sts 1 time
Size 9/10 years: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 10 times
Size 11/12 years: 4 sts 2 times, 3 sts 8 times, 5 sts 1 time
Size 13/14 years: 3 sts 13 times
= 28 sts remaining on the needles - measure the work from here. Inc 1 st on each side for seam = 30 sts (knit the edge sts in garter st). Continue the pattern with 1 edge st, P 2, Pattern 1, Pattern 5, P 2, 1 edge st. On the row before the work measures 7.5-7-8.5-10 (10.5-12-12.5) cm [3" - 2.75" - 3-⅜" - 4" (4-⅛" - 4.75" - 4-⅞")], dec 6 sts evenly distributed over the outer 18 sts on the right side (seen from the right side -- make decreases by K 2 tog). On the next row, bind off the outermost 12 sts on the right side = 12 sts on needles. Then dec 2 sts evenly distributed over the next 4 sts. On the next row bind off 2 sts on the right side = 8 sts on the row. Then continue knitting until the work measures 14-15-16.5-18.5 (19-21-21.5) cm [5.5" - 5-⅞" - 6.5" - 7.25" (7.5" - 8.25" - 8.5")]. Put sts on a stitch holder. The entire work measures approx. 46-51-56.5-61.5 (66-70-74.5) cm [18-⅛" - 20" - 22.25" - 24.25")].

Left sleeve: Knit like the right, but bind off on the opposite side.

Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder sts from the body together on each side of the uppermost part of the sleeve in the outer garter sts. Weave the sts from the stitch holder on both sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 76-88-88-92 (92-96-96) sts (divisible by 4 sts) around the neck on smaller double pointed needles; join and knit 4 rows garter st, 6-6-7-7 (7-8-8) cm rib [2-⅜" - 2-⅜" - 2.75" - 2.75" (2.75" - 3-⅛" - 3-⅛")], bind off loosely in rib. Fold the neck edge over against the wrong side and sew.

Diagram explanations
symbol = K
symbol = P
symbol = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbol = put 3 sts from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbol = put 3 sts from the stitch holder in front of the work, P 1, K 3 from the stitch holder
symbol = put 1 st from the stitch holder behind the work, K 3, P 1 from the stitch holder
symbol = adult
symbol = child

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