DROPS Baby / 4 / 19

Rocking in Lavender by DROPS Design

DROPS jumper with textured pattern, pants, hat and booties in “BabyMerino”.

  • Rocking in Lavender / DROPS Baby 4-19 - DROPS jumper with textured pattern, pants, hat and booties in “BabyMerino”.
  • Rocking in Lavender / DROPS Baby 4-19 - DROPS jumper with textured pattern, pants, hat and booties in “BabyMerino”.
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
300-350-400 (450-500) g color no 14, purple
Jumper only:
100-150-150 (150-200) g color no 14, purple

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm / US 0 and 1or2
DROPS wooden button, 1 pc

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JUMPER:
Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 in pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Front and back piece:
Knitted in the round on circular needle.. Cast on 136-144-160 (176-192) sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with purple and knit 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib.
Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and continue in M.1. Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-9½") knit next row as follows: bind off 2 sts for armhole, 64-68-76 (84-92) sts = front piece, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 64-68-76 (84-92) sts = back piece, bind off 2 sts for armhole.
Now complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 64-68-76 (84-92) sts.
Bind off to shape the armholes on every other row as follows: 2 sts 1-1-1 (0-0) times, 1 st 3-1-1 (2-2) times = 54-62-70 (80-88) sts.
When piece measures 24-26-29 (33-35) cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/8" (13"-13 3/4") bind off the middle 10-12-14 (18-24) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time. Bind off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'').

Back piece: = 64-68-76 (84-92) sts.
Bind off for armholes as described for front piece = 54-62-70 (80-88) sts.
When piece measures 22-24-28 (32-35) cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-11" (12½"-13 3/4") divide piece for split as follows:
Right side (with button): knit on the first 30-34-38 (43-47) sts with the 2 sts towards neckline in garter st. After 3 cm / 1 1/8'' bind off to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 13-14-15 (17-20) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time.
Bind off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'').
Left side (with buttonhole): Cast on 6 new sts towards the middle = 30-34-38 (43-47) sts and knit on all sts with the 2 sts towards neckline in garter st. After 2.5 cm / 7/8'' make a buttonhole by binding off third and fourth st and casting on 2 new sts on return row.
After 3 cm / 1 1/8'' bind off to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 13-14-15 (17-20) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1 time bind off when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8''-11 3/8''-13'' (14½''-15¾'').

Sleeve:
Cast on 44-46-48 (50-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0 with purple and knit 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib.
Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or 2 and continue in M.1, at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 4-6-7 (9-16) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 8th round
Size 6/9 months + 12/18 months: on every 7th round
Size 2 years: on every 5th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 4th round
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts.
When piece measures 14-16-19 (19-23) cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-7½" (7½"-9") bind off 4 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle.
Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 4 times.
Bind off, sleeve measures approx 17-20-22 (22-26) cm / 6 3/4"-8"-8 3/4" (8 3/4"-10 1/4").

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 80-85-90 (95-100) sts on needle size 2 mm/US 0 with purple and knit 1.5 cm / ½" Rib back and forth on needle, bind off.
Set in sleeves and sew on button.
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PANTS:
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 2 pcs
DROPS circular needle size 2 mm / US 0

Knitting gauge: 28 sts x 38 rows on needles size 2 mm / US 0 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: see diagram.

Left leg:
Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with purple and knit 3 cm / 1 1/8'' Rib.
Continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc on inside leg on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1½"-2"): 2 sts 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting gauge.
When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8" (9 3/4"-11") divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts.
When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm / 7"-8"-9" (10½"-11 3/4") bind off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts.
Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: knit as left leg.

Pants:
Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Knit 3 rounds and now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every other round: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec mid front on every other round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 1 st 8 times = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts.
When piece measures 33-37-42 (47-51) cm / 13"-14½"-16½" (18½"-20") dec 24-28-34 (32-32) sts evenly distributed on round = 136-140-150 (160-160) sts. Continue in Rib and insert a marker mid front.
When Rib measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', make a buttonhole on both sides of marker, 5-5-6 (6-7) cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8'' (2 3/8''-2¾'') from marker. 1 buttonhole = bind off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row.
Bind off when Rib measures 10 cm / 4'', the whole piece now measures approx 43-47-52 (57-61) cm / 17"-18½"-20½" (22½"-24").
Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back.

Braces: Cast on 11-11-11 (13-15) sts on needle size 2 mm with purple and knit approx 30 cm / 11 3/4'' Rib, bind off. Fasten braces mid back with approx 5-8 cm / 2"-3" between them. Sew on buttons.
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HAT:
Size: 3 – 6 (12 months – 2 years)
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1or2

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Hat:
Cast on 33-38 (42-46) sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with purple and knit garter st, at the same time inc 1 st at right side and dec 1 st at left side as follows, first row = RS: K2, 1 yo (= 1 inc), continue until 4 sts left on needle, K2 tog, K2.
Next row = WS: garter st up till yo, P yo into back of st, K2.
Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures 5.5-6 (6.5-7) cm / 2 1/4"-2 3/8" (2½"-2 3/4").
Now dec 1 st at right side and inc 1 st at left side as follows, next row RS: K1, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso, knit until 2 sts left on needle, 1 yo, K2.
Next row = WS: K2, K 1 into back of yo, complete row in garter st.
Repeat these 2 rows for another 5.5-6 (6.5-7) cm / 2 1/4"-2 3/8" (2½"-2 3/4").
Continue to inc 1 st at right side on every 4th row and dec 1 st at left side on every other row until piece measures 15.5-17 (17.5-18) cm / 6 1/8"-6 3/4" (6 7/8"-7") = middle of hat. Insert a marker each side.
Continue as described above but in reverse order.
Bind off when piece measures 31-34 (35-36) cm / 12 1/4"-13 3/8" (13 3/4"-14 1/4").

Assembly:
Front = the section with 3 whole points, back = section with 2 whole points and 2 half points. Now sew tog hat as follows: Sew tog at back by sewing tog the first half point and the first half of the first whole point. Sew tog the other half of the first whole point and the first half of the second whole point. Sew tog the other half of the second whole point with the last half point. Now sew tog hat mid back.

Tie: Cast on 4 sts on a double pointed needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with purple and knit these 4 sts in garter st, *do not turn the piece, but carry the thread behind the 4 sts and knit them again from RS*, repeat from *-* until ribbon measures 15 -15 (16-17) cm / 6"-6" (6 1/4"-6 3/4").
Knit another tie. Fasten ties on WS at the point each side.
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SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 months (2 -3/4 years)

DROPS double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm / US 0 and 2

Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 2 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Seed st: Row 1: K1, P1. Row 2: P over K and K over P. Repeat row 2.

The sock is knitted in the round. Cast on 58-60-62 (64-66) sts on needles size 2 mm/US 0 with purple and knit Rib.
When Rib measures 4-5-5 (5-6) cm / 1½"-2"-2" (2"-2½") on next round K tog 3 sts mid back. Knit another 4 rounds and on next round K tog 3 sts mid back = 54-56-58 (60-62) sts.
When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5 1/8''-5½'') change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 2 and continue in stockinette st, at the same time dec no of sts to 46-50-50 (54-54).
After 2 rounds work next round as follows: *K2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-*. Remember the knitting gauge.
Knit 1 round and then work the middle 10-12-12 (14-14) sts (= mid upper piece) in seed st, put remaining sts on a holder.
After 4-5-5.5 (7-7.5) cm / 1½"-2"-2 1/4" (2 3/4"-2 7/8") pick up 10-12-14 (16-18) sts on both sides of upper piece = 66-74-78 (86-90) sts, incl sts on holder.
Knit in the round on all sts as follows: 1.5-2-2.5 (3-3.5) cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/4") seed st, P 1 round. Now bind off all sts except the front 10-12-12 (14-14) sts.
Knit 9-10-11 (13-14) cm / 3½"-4"-4½" (5"-5½") on these for sole.
Bind off and fasten sole to the sock.
Crochet a chain measuring approx 30-35 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/4" and pull through eyelet row.
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BLANKET:

Material: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350 g color 01, off-white

Material: DROPS circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4

Knitting gauge: 21 stitches on needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 = width 10 cm = 4”.

Garter stitch (back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

Pattern: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
NOTE! If a diagram is finished from right side, start first row on next diagram from wrong side. Pay extra attention that the diagrams show the pattern seen from right side.

Blanket:
To fit in all stitches work blanket back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 128 stitches with Karisma on circular needle size 3,5 mm = US 4.

Work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches.
Continue with 4 stitches in garter stitch on each side and PATTERN – read explanation above, on the middle 120 stitches as follows:
Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8" – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8".
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.3 for approx. 16 cm = 6 1/4" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.1 for approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8" – adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.2 for approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8".
Then work A.4 one time (= 5 rows)
Work A.3 for approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" - adjust after a whole repeat or half a repeat.
Then work 3 ridges in garter stitch over all stitches on row. Piece now measures approx. 82 cm = 32 1/4" – bind off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.04.2018
Updated diagrams. The diagrams for the blanket has been renamed from M to A.
Updated online: 08.10.2020
Correction: Pattern text for blanket has been updated to make it easier to read.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K on RS, P on WS
symbols = P on RS, K on WS
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 4-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Agneta 29.04.2021 - 11:09:

Förstår inte avmaskning för armen. Maska av 4 m under armen och sticka färdigt fram och tillbaka. Sedan 3 m avm i varje sida för axel på vartannat v 4 ggr. När gör man den avmaskningen? Maska av när arbetet mäter ca 17-20-22 (22-26) cm. Hur många maskor är det kvar att avmaska.

user icon DROPS Design 29.04.2021 kl. 13:39:

Hej Agneta. Du maskar av först 4 m under ärmen. Sedan 3 maskor på varje sida (dvs 6 m per varv) totalt 4 gånger. Så totalt avmaskar du 4 + (6x4)= 28 m. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Agneta Sjöberg 22.04.2021 - 21:48:

Stickar tröjan Bakstyket Man delar bakstycket för sprund Höger sida ska det sitta en knapp Vänster sida knapphål, förstår inte. Ska inte knappen sitta på bakstycket och knapphålet på framstycketKan någon förklara

user icon DROPS Design 28.04.2021 kl. 16:09:

Hej Agneta, nej sprundet skal være midt bagpå ryggen, det er de øverste 3 cm inden halsen som kan lukkes med knapper. God fornøjelse!

country flag Ana Cecilia Ramirez 15.10.2020 - 13:17:

Jeg strikker lue størrelse 6 mnd. Jeg lurer på om jeg leser riktig og man bør øke i høyre side hver 4p. Og feller hver 2 p i venstre side. Da blir at antall masker minsker. Stemmer det?

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2020 kl. 09:44:

Hej. Ja det stämmer. Se gärna vår video på hur man stickar en lue sidelengs. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Ana Cecilia Ramirez 05.10.2020 - 14:52:

Jeg strikker størrelse 6 måneder. Jeg er ved å slutte ermene. Jeg haar strikket til 16cm. Da begynner jeg med fellingen. Det er 8 pinner i følge den oppgitte strikkefasthet er 8 pinner litt over 2 cm. Det står i oposkriften at det er 4 cm. Skal jeg bare strikke til det måler 20 cm?

user icon DROPS Design 12.10.2020 kl. 10:15:

Hei Ana. Ja, strikk til den måler ca 20 cm. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Ana Cecilia Ramirez 29.09.2020 - 12:20:

Jeg strikker erme på jakken. På slutten skal man felle 2p 3m x 4, da skal det måle 20 cm. Da er det 8 pinner men da blir det 4 cm.? Skal jeg strikke mer pinner til det blir 20 cm?.

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 09:55:

Hei Ane. Det skal felles på hver 2.pinne. Når du skal begynne fellingene måler arbeidet ditt 14-16-19-(19-23 ) cm og etter fellingene ( 8 pinner = ca 3+ cm) måler arbeidet ca 17-20-22-(22-26) cm. Så målene i oppskriften skal stemme. Hvilken størrelse strikker du og har du den oppgitt strikkefastheten i høyden? mvh DROPS design

country flag Ana Cecilia Ramirez 19.09.2020 - 14:10:

Jeg får ikke antall p til å stemme for strikkefasthet, skal jeg bruke en større pinne?

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 07:04:

Hei Ana, Hvis du får flere masker på 10 cm enn anbefalt, må du bruke en større pinne nr. Hvis du får færre masker må du gå ned i pinne størrelse. God fornøyelse!

country flag Hrafnhildur 20.07.2020 - 20:08:

Er Rocking in Lavender ekki til í stærð 0-3 mánaða? Ef ekki hvernig get ég minnkað 3-6 mánaða uppskriftina þannig að hún passi á 0-3 mánaða?

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2020 kl. 10:06:

Blessuð, minnsta stærðin er á 3 mánaða, síðan kemur 6/9 mánaða, sæupab 12/18 mánaða .... Stærð: 3 - 6/9 - 12/18 mán (2 - 3/4) ára. Gangi þér vel.

country flag Hrafnhildur 20.07.2020 - 20:02:

Er Rocking in Lavender ekki til í stærð 0-3 mánaða? Ef ekki hvernig get ég minnkað 3-6 mánaða uppskriftina þannig að hún passi á 0-3 mánaða?

country flag Guri 30.05.2020 - 22:10:

Jeg har 176 masker til en 2år det går ikke op i mønster 6rat 6 Vang hilse Guri hansen

country flag Anna Vendruscolo 09.02.2020 - 09:06:

Salve, sto facendo il maglione e arrivata al diagramma A1 non mi sembra che corrisponda a quello della fotografia ma più al punto a scacchiera o sbaglio ? Grazie per la vostra risposta .

user icon DROPS Design 12.02.2020 kl. 09:51:

Buongiorno Anna. Per il maglione. il diagramma da seguire è il diagramma M1. Buon lavoro!

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