DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 76.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Dream Echoes

Knitted sweater in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk or DROPS Daisy and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 255-27
DROPS design: Pattern li-177
Yarn group B + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-108-116-128-138-150 cm = 40"-42½"-45¾"-50⅜"-54¼"-59"
Full length: 62-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 24⅜"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color 0206, wheat
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 9029, sage green
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 56, marzipan
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 45, soft mint

Or use:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color 02, marzipan
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color no 26, sage green
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g color 56, marzipan
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 45, soft mint

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16" and 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16" and 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 21 rows vertically with Nordic pattern on needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 76.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Work the entire pattern in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 7. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 7th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder back, and work top down. When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body down wards in the round on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 with DROPS Lima in color wheat and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan or DROPS Daisy in color marzipan and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan. Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge). Knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until neck edge measures 11 cm = 4⅜". The neck edge is later folded double and assembled so that the neck edge is approx. 5 cm = 2".
Insert 1 marker after the first 28-29-31-32-33-35 stitches on round (= approx. mid front), measures piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9, work 1 round in stockinette stitch while increasing 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 96-100-106-110-116-120 stitches.
Then work in stockinette stitch. Remember to follow the knitting gauge!
When yoke measures 3-3-4-4-5-5 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½"-2"-2" from marker, increase 20-20-26-26-28-32 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP = 116-120-132-136-144-152 stitches.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5-6-7-8-10-11 cm = 2"-2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛"-4"-4⅜" from marker.
Now work PATTERN – read explanation above, i.e. work A.1 in the round on yoke AT THE SAME TIME increase 32-36-40-40-44-48 stitches evenly on 1st round = 148-156-172-176-188-200 stitches (there is room for 37-39-43-44-47-50 repetitions of A.1 after this increase).
Continue the pattern - AT THE SAME TIME on every round marked with arrow in A.1 increase stitches evenly as explained below - remember INCREASE TIP:

Arrow-1: Increase 32-32-36-40-44-48 stitches evenly = 180-188-208-216-232-248 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 30-34-38-42-44-52 stitches evenly = 210-222-246-258-276-300 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 22-26-26-30-36-32 stitches evenly = 232-248-272-288-312-332 stitches.

When A.1 has been worked, piece measures approx. 22-23-24-25-27-28 cm = 8¾"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11". Now divide piece for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME TIME as next round is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Slip the first 44-46-52-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-14-13-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), work A.2 over the next 72-78-84-88-98-104 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 44-46-52-56-58-62 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-14-13-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), and work A.2 over the last 72-78-84-88-98-104 stitches (= back piece). Work body and sleeves separately. Fasten off.

BODY:
= 162-174-186-204-222-240 stitches. Insert 1 marker in one side of piece (= in the middle of the 9-9-9-14-13-16 stitches that were cast on under sleeve). Begin round at the marker and work in the round, begin on second round in A.2. At the same time increase stitches evenly on rounds with arrow as follows:
Arrow-4: Increase 8-6-4-6-8-10 stitches evenly = 170-180-190-210-230-250 stitches.
Arrow-5: Increase 2-4-6-6-6-6 stitches evenly = 172-184-196-216-236-256 stitches.
Arrow-6: Increase 4-8-4-8-4-8 stitches evenly = 176-192-200-224-240-264 stitches.

When A.2 has been worked vertically, work in stockinette stitch with DROPS Lima in color wheat and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan or DROPS Daisy in color marzipan and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan. Continue until piece measures 51-51-53-53-55-57 cm = 20"-20"-21"-21"-21⅝"-22½" from marker mid front.
Switch to circular needles size 4 MM = US 6, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 20-16-20-24-24-24 evenly on 1st round = 196-208-220-248-264-288 stitches.
When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾" bind off.
Sweater measures 57-57-59-60-62-64 cm = 22½"-22½"-23¼"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from marker mid front and approx. 62-62-64-66-68-70 cm = 24⅜"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip 44-46-52-56-58-62 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and pick in addition up 1 stitch each of the 9-9-9-14-13-16 stitches cast on under sleeve = 53-55-61-70-71-78 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread approx. in the middle of the 9-9-9-14-13-16 new stitches under sleeve - round begins at marker thread, marker thread is inserted between 2 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch mid on top of sleeve.
Work A.2, but count out from the middle – stitches with arrow in A.2 should fit stitch with marker thread mid on top of sleeve - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-¾"-¾"-¾" from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 8-8-5½-3½-3½-2½ cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-2⅛"-1¼"-1¼"-1" 4-4-6-9-9-11 times in total = 45-47-49-52-53-56 stitches. When A.2 has been worked, continue to work with DROPS Lima in color wheat and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan or DROPS Daisy in color marzipan and DROPS Kid-Silk in color marzipan.
Work until sleeve measures 39-38-38-37-36-35 cm = 15¼"-15"-15"-14½"-14¼"-13¾" from division.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 7-5-7-8-7-8 stitches evenly on 1st round = 52-52-56-60-60-64 stitches.
When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm = 2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-2¾" bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 45-44-44-44-43-42 cm = 17¾"-17¼"-17¼"-17¼"-17"-16½" from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck edge at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten neck edge to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 strand in Lima in color wheat/Daisy in colour marzipan + 1 strand Kid-Silk in color marzipan
symbols = 1 strand in Lima in color sage green/Daisy in colour sage green + 1 strand Kid-Silk in color soft mint
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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