Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)#blueberryleafsweater
DROPS design: Pattern sk-190
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit | |
= purl | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make hole | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes | |
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Blueberry Leaf |
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Knitted sweater in DROPS Sky or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, lace pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 249-9 |
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---------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ---------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE TIP (applies to round yoke): To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 150 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 30) = 5. In this example increase after approx. every 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. ---------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ---------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: In this pattern long and short needles have been used, begin with fitting length and switch as needed. Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. When yoke is done, divide stitches for body and sleeves. Work body down wards in the round on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. NECK EDGE: Cast on 120-124-128-132-140-148 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with DROPS Sky or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work in the round in rib (knit 2/purl 2). When piece measures 2 cm = ¾", increase all purl sections with 2 purl stitches to 3 purl stitches - increase with 1 yarn over between 2 purl stitches, purl yarn over twisted on next round = 150-155-160-165-175-185 stitches. Continue with rib (knit 2/purl 3) until neck edge measures 5 cm = 2" in total. Insert a marker in the middle of round - now measure yoke from here. YOKE: Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work in stockinette stitch in the round while at the same time increasing 30-35-40-45-45-55 stitches evenly on the first round – read INCREASE TIP = 180-190-200-210-220-240 stitches. Work until piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from marker. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round, use it when working pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Now work PATTERN - read explanation above, i.e. work A.1 18-19-20-21-22-24 times in total in the round on yoke. When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 216-228-240-252-264-288 stitches on needle. Now displace the round, cut the yarn and move the first 6 stitches on round on to right needle knitwise, move the marker thread here - now the round begins here. Work A.2 18-19-20-21-22-24 times in total in the round on yoke. When A.2 has been worked vertically, there are 252-266-280-294-308-336 stitches on needle. Now displace the round, cut the yarn and move the first 7 stitches on round on to right needle knitwise, move the marker thread here - now the round begins here. Work A.3 18-19-20-21-22-24 times in total in the round on yoke. When A.3 has been worked vertically, there are 270-285-300-315-330-360 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 12 cm = 4¾" from marker. Work in the round in stockinette stitch, at the same time on first round increase 13-17-22-32-39-36 stitches evenly – remember INCREASE TIP = 283-302-322-347-369-396. Work until piece measures 15-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 6"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7" from marker, on next round increase 13-18-22-33-39-36 stitches evenly = 296-320-344-380-408-432 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 18-19-21-22-23-25 cm = 7"-7½"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-9¾" from marker. On next round divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 32-36-39-44-50-55 stitches as before (belongs to back piece), slip the next 58-62-68-76-78-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-126-136 stitches in stockinette stitch (front piece), slip the next 58-62-68-76-78-80 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (in the side under sleeve), and work the last 58-62-65-70-76-81 stitches as before (the rest of back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. Now measure piece from here! BODY: = 200-216-232-252-280-304 stitches. Work in round in stockinette stitch until piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-16 cm = 5½"-6"-6"-6¼"-6¼"-6¼" from division. On next round increase 40-40-44-52-56-60 stitches evenly = 240-256-276-304-336-364 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Now work rib in the round (purl 2/knit 2) until rib measures 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Sweater measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼" from shoulder. SLEEVES: Slip the 58-62-68-76-78-80 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles/a circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 68-72-80-88-92-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches under sleeve- Use marker thread later when decreasing under sleeve. Begin round at marker thread. Work in stockinette stitch in the round, while AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve in size S, M, L and XL (do not decrease in XXL and XXXL) - read DECREASE TIP. SIZE S, M, L and XL: Decrease like this every 2-1-1-1½ cm = ¾"-⅜"-⅜"-½" 2-2-2-2 times in total = 64-68-76-84 stitches. ALL SIZES: = 64-68-76-84-92-96 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 10-9-8-8-8-6 cm = 4"-3½"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-2⅜" from division. 6 cm = 2⅜" remain until finished measurements. Try the sweater and work to desired length before rib. Knit 1 round while increasing 8-12-12-16-16-20 stitches evenly on round= 72-80-88-100-108-116 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib in the round (knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 16-15-14-14-14-12 cm = 6¼"-6"-5½"-5½"-5½"-4¾" from division. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (20)
Tracey wrote:
The graph doesn’t load on the US version of this pattern.
10.09.2024 - 18:55Conni wrote:
Hej, mangler der ikke noget i diagrammet, de 2 nederste symboler med de skrå streger er ikke i diagrammet,på forhånd tak
30.08.2024 - 12:46DROPS Design answered:
Hei Conni. Ser ut som disse symbolene tilhører jakken som er lik denne toppen (skal ikke være med i diagrammene til toppen). Dette skal vi få fjernet asap. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh DROPS Design
02.09.2024 - 10:25Annemarie wrote:
Ich verstehe nicht, wieso bei vielen Drops Mustern neuerdings vor den Bündchen extra Maschen aufgenommen werden. Bündchen leiern aus. Haben sie dann zu viele Maschen, stehen sie ab. Das sieht nicht gut aus.
10.07.2024 - 02:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Annemarie, die Maschen werden zugenommen, damit die Bündchen den unteren Bereich des Ärmels / des Rumpfteils nicht zu stark zusammenziehen, durch die Zunahmen fallen die Ärmel/das Rumpfteil gerader und es wird unten nicht enger. Die Bündchen selber sollten aber nicht ausleiern, da sie mit einer dünneren Nadel gestrickt werden.
16.07.2024 - 17:12Kitty wrote:
Merci pour les explications, je n'avais pas bien lu le diagramme !
21.05.2024 - 18:16CHRISTINE FORST wrote:
Merci pour votre réponse. Bonne journée
21.05.2024 - 18:14Lise Hermann wrote:
Hej Jeg er gået helt i stå ved diagram A1 str L, der skår at man skal strikke det i alt 20 omgange, hvordan skal det gøres? Jeg kan ikke få det til at ligne modellen. Diagrammet har færre omgange, hvis der skal gentages omgange, hvor starter man så? Med venlig hilsen Lise
21.05.2024 - 11:08DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lise, i str L har du 200 m, du strikker A.1 (=10 masker) 20 gange rund på rundpinden :)
21.05.2024 - 15:46Kitty wrote:
J'ai également un problème avec la grille A1 au 2ème tour. Au 1er tour, il y a 2 jetés (ce qui fait 2 mailles en plus), et seulement 2 mailles tricotées ensembles, et au 2ème tour, je me retrouve avec 11mailles Merci de votre aide
20.05.2024 - 14:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Kitty, le triangle noir correspond à une double diminution, autrement dit, on va glisser 1 maille comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit, tricoter 2 mailles ensemble à l'endroit, passer la maille glissée par-dessus les mailles tricotées ensemble = il reste 1 seule maille + les 2 jetés, on conserve bien le même nombre de mailles soit 10 mailles. Au 9ème rang, on fait seulement 2 jetés au milieu de A.1 = on augmente alors 2 mailles dans chaque A.1. Bon tricot!
21.05.2024 - 13:29CHRISTINE FORST wrote:
Bonjour, Comment commencer les diagrammes ? Par le bas ou par le haut ? Pour A1, on commence par les12 mailles envers ou les 10 mailles ? Merci de votre aide
20.05.2024 - 08:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Forst, les diagrammes se lisent de bas en haut, et lorsque l'on tricote en rond, on lit tous les rangs (tours) de droite à gauche - retrouvez plus d'infos sur les diagrammes ici. Bon tricot!
21.05.2024 - 13:11Karen wrote:
I opskriften skal bruges pind 3 og pind 4. Strikkefasthed opgives således: 21 masker i bredden og 28 pinde i højden med glatstrik = 10 x 10 cm. Men her nævnes ikke pindtykkelse! Den nævnte strikkefasthed, gælder den for pind 3 (halskant mm) eller pind 4 (bærestykke mm)?
09.05.2024 - 20:48DROPS Design answered:
Hei Karen. Strikkefastheten er oppgitt i glattstrikk. Pinne 3 brukes kun i vrangbord, 2 rett / 2 vrang (halskant, nederst på bol og nederst på erme), altså det er pinne 4 eller den pinnestørrelsen som gir deg den oppgitte strikkefastheten på 21 masker i bredden og 28 pinner i høyden. mvh DROPS Design
13.05.2024 - 13:35Eirill wrote:
Jeg sliter med diagram A.1. på andre omgang med hullmønster blir alt forskjøvet. Når en maske skal tas løst av og to masker strikkes rett sammen blir hele mønsteret skjevt når jeg da skal ha tre masker imellom kastene. Er det jeg som leser diagrammet feil? Det ser ikke skjeivt ut på bildene.
26.04.2024 - 14:06DROPS Design answered:
Hei Eirill. For en bedre oversikt, sett maskemarkører(merketråd) mellom hvert diagram, da ser du lettere at "midtmaskene" i diagrammet (den sorte store trekanten) hele tiden kommer over hverandre, mens kastene (hullmønstret) skal komme på skrå / skeiv. mvh DROPS Design
29.04.2024 - 08:28