Winter Owl Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with double neck, raglan and relief-pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 243-1
DROPS Design: Pattern no-075
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 106-112-126-136-142-156 cm = 41 3/4"-44"-49 1/2"-53 1/2"-55 3/4"-61 3/8"
Full length: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-350-400-450 g color 01, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
225-225-250-275-300-350 g color 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32” circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand DROPS Nord + 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 3.85 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 3.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 6.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 80.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.5).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with 1 strand DROPS Nord and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk using short circular needles size 4.5 and 5.5 MM = US 9 held together. Remove the needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 keeping stitches on the needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge).
Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm = 4”.
Fold the neck double to the inside and work 1 more round of rib, working every 4th stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge.
Knit 1 round and increase 24 stitches evenly spaced = 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches. Purl 1 round. Insert 1 marker; the yoke is measured from here.

YOKE:
Change to short circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work pattern as follows (the start of the round is on the back piece):
Work A.1 over 5-5-5-5-5-10 stitches, A.2 (approx. half the back piece) A.3, A.4, A.3 (sleeve), A.5, A.6 over 11-11-11-11-11-21 stitches, A.2 (front piece), A.3, A.4, A.3 (sleeve), A.5, A.6 over 6-6-6-6-6-11 stitches (rest of back piece).
Continue this pattern and increase as shown in A.2, A.4 and A.5 (i.e., increase towards each repeat of A.3 and 8 increases every 2nd round). The increased stitches are worked twisted into the pattern – no hole.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Diagrams A.1, A.3 and A.6 are repeated in height. When diagrams A.2, A.4 and A.5 are finished 1 time in height, continue the increases as before and work the stitches twisted as before until you have increased a total of 17-19-23-25-27-30 times (including the increases in A.2, A.4 and A.5) = 236-256-292-312-332-360 stitches. Continue the pattern without further increases until the yoke measures 20-22-23-25-27-30 cm = 8"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/4" from the marker.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 37-39-44-48-51-57 (approx. half back piece), place the next 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches on a thread), cast on 8-10-10-10-10-8 stitches in side under the sleeve, knit 75-79-89-97-103-115 (front piece), place the next 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches on a thread), cast on 8-10-10-10-10-8 stitches in side under the sleeve, knit the last 38-40-45-49-52-58 stitches (rest of back piece). Finish the body and sleeves separately.
BODY:
= 166-178-198-214-226-246 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for a further 33-33-34-34-34-33 cm = 13"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13". Knit 1 round and increase 26-26-30-30-34-34 stitches evenly spaced = 192-204-228-244-260-280 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The piece measures approx. 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm = 24 3/4"-25 1/2"-26 3/8"-27 1/8"-28"-28 3/4" from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 43-49-57-59-63-65 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 51-59-67-69-73-73 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Continue stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-4-2½-2½-2-1½ cm = 2 3/8"-1 1/2"-1"-1"-3/4"-1/2" a total of 5-7-11-11-13-12 times = 41-45-45-47-47-49 stitches. When the sleeve measures 33-32-31-29-28-25 cm = 13"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-11 3/8"-11"-9 3/4", knit 1 round and increase 7-7-7-9-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off. Sleeve measures approx. 39-38-37-35-34-33 cm = 15 1/4"-15"-14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.10.2023
Correction yarn amount and information about tension.
Updated online: 07.12.2023
The diagram A.5 is updated. Correction under yoke in all sizes.
Updated online: 15.01.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction in stitch count at the end of yoke and on body in all sizes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side
symbols = purl from right side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next round – no hole.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 243-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (76)

country flag Donata wrote:

Buonasera. Ho iniziato a lavorare il maglione Winter Owl Sweater nella taglia xl. Non mi è chiaro come devo continuare quando si dice: "Ripetere i diagrammi A.1, A.3 e A.6. Alla fine dei diagrammi A.2, A.4 e A.5, continuare ad aumentare come prima e lavorare gli aumenti a ritorto come prima fino a quando gli aumenti sono stati lavorati per un totale di 17-19-23-25-27-30 volte (compresi gli aumenti in A.2, A.4 e A.5) = 236-256-292-312-332-360 maglie". Sono al mio primo lavoro.

20.02.2024 - 19:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Donata, i diagrammi A.1, A.3 e A.6 sono più piccoli rispetto agli altri e vengono ripetuti più volte durante la lavorazione degli altri diagrammi. Buon lavoro!

21.02.2024 - 08:48

country flag Dorrie wrote:

Beautiful jumper but I find after the first row I am left with 2 stitches left over. I have checked and rechecked with 14 stitches over front and back to make 28 and 37 for each sleeve including the raglan makes 74 total of 102. Also I noticed it had corrections but I can’t find them

17.02.2024 - 05:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dorrie, the corrections at the bottom of the page are indications for the people who printed the pattern before we updated it for the correct version. The version now online has the corrections applied already. In the raglan, for size M, you should have: first half of the back: 7 stitches (A.2 is 2 stitches for size M), sleeve: 37 stitches, front piece: 15 stitches (A.5 and A.2 is 2 stitches for size M), sleeve 37 stitches, second half of the back piece: 8 stitches (A.5 is 2 stitches for size M). So you have 15 stitches in each body piece (front and back) and 37 in each sleeve = 104 stitches + the increases in the charts. Happy knitting!

18.02.2024 - 22:09

country flag Sylvaine wrote:

Bonjour, J.ai entrepris de faire la taille M j.ai recommencé 2 fois l’empiècement mais les nombres de mailles ne correspondent pas finalement je me suis inspirée des photos et j.ai fait ma propre répartition de mailles. C.est dommage c.est un joli pull . Il faudrait reprendre les explications correctement. C.est la première fois que je trouve un modèle qui a des erreurs.

01.02.2024 - 17:38

country flag Monique wrote:

I have knit 17 rounds with increases chart for A4 complete after that increased only 1 before and after raglan, divide sleeves says 43 but i have 47,A3 16 A4 15 A3 16(47) do i borrow 4 stitches from the sleeves for the back and front? my front stitches are nowhere near the required 75? Thank you for clarifying this, so keep going with increases for front and back after A3 on each side till I have 75 in the front? including the extra 4 sleeve stitiches?

31.01.2024 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monique, the stitches in A.3 will be divided into body and sleeves, if you get the correct total number of stitches ie 236 in S, just divide stitches for body and sleeves as explained (14 sts from A.3 go to the front/back piece while just the last 2 /first 2 sts A.3 belong to sleeves. Happy knitting!

01.02.2024 - 08:48

country flag Monique wrote:

So I think this makes more sense, I got 100, I need 37 for each sleeve, So i have 13 for the front and 13 back, right? So now I can start working on the charts? I find the beginning of your patterns always extremely difficult ,been knitting for 50 years, its always trying to understand the marker placements, once i got this the rest is easier,

30.01.2024 - 21:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monique, correct, work the 100 sts as follows starting from mid back: A.1 (5 sts), A.2 (1 st), ( 6 sts for half back piece), A.3 (16 sts raglan), A.4 (5 sts), A.3 (16sts raglan) (37 sts sleeve including raglan sts), A.5 (1 st), A.6 (11 sts), A.2 (1 st) (13 sts front piece), A.3 (16sts raglan), A.4 (5 sts), A.3 (16 sts raglan) (37 sts including raglan sts for sleeve), A.5 (1 st), A.6 (6 sts) (7 sts for halfback piece). Hope this can help. Happy knitting !

31.01.2024 - 08:39

country flag Monique wrote:

Set up Size S, 100 Stitches. A1(5) A2(1),back? A3A4A3(27) sleeve, front? A5A6A2 (11) A3A4A3(27) sleeve, 12 left before end of round? picture shows more stitches in the front ? please explain how to get started and where to place markers, i read through all the comments and still am lost as so many are . I understand how to follow a chart I just need help getting started with the right number of stitches, and makers thanks

30.01.2024 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monique, the rounds start on mid back, we don't use markers in this pattern but if you want to add some, you can add markers on either side of each A.3 to mark the raglan stitches, as you will increase before A.3 and after A.3. Happy knitting!

31.01.2024 - 08:21

country flag Cecilia Pasolini wrote:

Hi, I'm knitting size M of the jumper. I now finished diagram A.2, A.4 and A.5 1 time in height, the pattern now says "continue the increases as before and work the stitches twisted as before until you have increased a total of 17-19-23-25-27-30 times". What do you mean continue as before? what pattern should I follow now? thanks!

23.01.2024 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pasolini, increase as before for the raglan on each side of A.3 and work the new stitches in pattern to continue the pattern as before (2 sts in garter stitch, 3 sts in stocking stitch). Happy knitting!

24.01.2024 - 07:53

country flag Inge wrote:

I den nye rettelse fra i går er der under A-5 skrevet fra S-XXXL. Jeg har indtil nu brugt A5-L. Den er stadig at se på diagrammet. Hvilken skal jeg bruge?

16.01.2024 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inge, hvis du strikker størrelse L skal du strikke efter A.5 L. Det er kun størrelse S og XXXL du skal strikke A.5 S-XXXL :)

17.01.2024 - 13:16

country flag Cynthia wrote:

Je viens de commencer le premier tour avec les diagrammes mais il me reste 7 mailles à la fin. J\'ai 100 mailles et en suivant les diagrammes ça fait 93. Quelle est mon erreur. Merci!

13.01.2024 - 17:38

country flag Anita wrote:

Hei! Jeg skal strikke Winter Owl Sweater i størrelse S. Tenker å bruke garnet Air i stedet for Nord og Kid Silk. Hvor mange nøster vil jeg da trenge. Takknemlig for svar! Hilsen Anita

12.01.2024 - 22:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, du skal bruge 7 nøgler til str S :)

15.01.2024 - 12:18

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